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diff --git a/memories/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul/index.html b/memories/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul/index.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..914ab56 --- /dev/null +++ b/memories/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul/index.html @@ -0,0 +1,533 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no"> +<html> +<head> + <meta charset="utf-8"> + <title>Istanbul</title> + <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css"> +</head> +<body> + +<h1>Istanbul</h1> + +Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a> + +<hr> +<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2> + +<h3>Nancy, James Jerusalem to Istanbul</h3> + +<p> +The travelers flew from Telaviv to Istanbul and caught a cab. +The cab ride covered a distance of about 60 miles. +</p> + +<p> +It is good that the airport has many moving sidewalks because the place is HUGE. +It took the travelers a long time to get from the places where they debarked the plane to the place where they collected their luggage, went through security and found a cab. +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="airport-walkway.jpg"> + <figcaption>Istanbul Airport walkway.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<h3>Istanbul Overview</h3> + +<p> +Istanbul is a popular place to visit with a long and important history. +The travelers wanted to experience this place and gain some understanding of what life may have been like for Yesia when he lived there. +Yesia began working in Istanbul when he was 13 and lived there until he was 17 when he immigrated to the US (1900) due to Turkish fear of Armenian revolutionaries. +</p> + +<h3>Basileus Hotel</h3> + +<p> +The travelers arrived at <a href=https://www.basileushotel.com/>Basileus Hotel</a>, their home away from home in Istanbul. +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="basileus-exterior.jpg"> + <figcaption>Basileus exterior.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="basileus-nancy.jpg"> + <figcaption>Nancy naps in her Basileus bed.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<h3>Istanbul first reactions</h3> + +<p> +There seem to be lots of dogs and cats roaming the streets. +It appeared that they were all fed and perhaps even vaccinated. +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="dogs.jpg"> + <figcaption>Public Istanbul dogs.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p> +The travelers enjoyed turkish delight candy. +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="turkish-delight.jpg"> + <figcaption>Turkish delight being sold at a local shop.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p> +Hagia Sophia at sunset was a special sight. +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="hagia-sophia-sunset.jpg"> + <figcaption>Hagia Sophia at sunset.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<p> +The travelers had dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant. +Both Jim and Nancy had an entire bowl (meant to be for dipping) of jajikh. +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="three-partners.jpg"> + <figcaption>Dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<hr> +<h2 id=2019-09-19><a href=#2019-09-19>2019-09-19 Thursday</a></h2> + +<h3>breakfast</h3> + +<p> +The travelers learned that Turkish breakfast is quite different from "continental style". +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="breakfast.jpg"> + <figcaption>Basileus hotel breakfast.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<h3>Sultan's Palace</h3> + +<p> +The travelers visited the <a href=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topkap%C4%B1_Palace>Sultan's Palace</a>. +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="sultan-wall.jpg"> + <figcaption>Outer wall of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="sultan-gate.jpg"> + <figcaption>Inner gate of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="sultan-model.jpg"> + <figcaption>3D model of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="sultan-pebbles.jpg"> + <figcaption>Pebble art at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="sultan-wall-detail.jpg"> + <figcaption>Interesting wall detail at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="sultan-tile-ceiling.jpg"> + <figcaption>Tile ceiling in one of the kiosks on the property.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="harem-building.jpg"> + <figcaption>The Harem building on the sultan’s property.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="sultan-toilet.jpg"> + <figcaption>Toilet for the sultan's mother.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="sultan-lighting.jpg"> + <figcaption>Interesting lighting.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="sultan-fireplace.jpg"> + <figcaption>Fireplace in the Sultan’s bedroom.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="sultan-bedroom-window.jpg"> + <figcaption>Sultan's bedroom window.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="sultan-drainage.jpg"> + <figcaption>Fancy drainage system.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<h3>Hrant Dink Foundation</h3> + +<p> +After lunch the travelers undertook to find the offices of the <a href=https://hrantdink.org/tr/>Hrant Dink Organization</a> located on the Asian side of Istanbul. +They had the address but had trouble finding it. +Finally they did find it with the help of Jim’s phone GPS and a hand drawn map by a tattoo artist who worked in a shop nearby. +Once there, they were given helpful information about visiting Istanbul, Kayseri and Erzindjan. +The staff were interested in the fact that the travelers were visiting Develi in an attempt to see where the property Yesia inherited may have been. +Evidently this organization is in the process of suing the Turkish government which claims that Armenians who left Turkey before the genocide as Turkish citizens should be entitled to reparations. +They do not intend to be part of this lawsuit, but wonder if Turkish documents about Yesia might have indicated if he was a Turkish citizen when he left in 1900. +</p> + +<p> +After spending the afternoon in this way, the travelers enjoyed a nice dinner before bed. +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="nancy-dinner.jpg"> + <figcaption>Nancy enjoys dinner.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<hr> +<h2 id=2019-09-20><a href=#2019-09-20>2019-09-20 Friday</a></h2> + +<h3>Basilica Cistern</h3> + +<p> +Jim and Nancy tour The Basilica Cistern- used by Romans to bring water via aquaducts to the city. +7000 slaves dug the hole (9 feet deep, 140 feet long and 70 feet wide) in 9 months. +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="cistern-columns.jpg"> + <figcaption>Many columns, some reused from other places.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="weeping-column.jpg"> + <figcaption>The weeping column- dedicated to the many workers died in the process of constructing the place.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<h3>Armenian district</h3> + +<figure> + <img src="coffee-sand.jpg"> + <figcaption>Making Turkish coffee in sand.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="steps.jpg"> + <figcaption>Steep colored steps on a street.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="fixer-upper.jpg"> + <figcaption>Lots of fixer-uppers.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="sweat-shop.jpg"> + <figcaption>Sweat shops are in the basements of various businesses.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="armenian-church-exterior.jpg"> + <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church exterior.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="armenian-church-interior.jpg"> + <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church interior. + Lit two candles for Azniv here.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="armenian-church-caretaker.jpg"> + <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church caretaker.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="shoes.jpg"> + <figcaption>Many, many shoe businesses, as there where when Yesia worked for his shoemaker uncle.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<h3>Blaise travels Madison to Istanbul</h3> + +<p> +Blaise left Madison mid-afternoon Wisconsin time, traveling to Istanbul to meet Nancy and Jim. +This involved a short flight Madison → Chicago, an ~11 hour flight Chicago → Istanbul, and a hour long bus ride to get downtown. +The most remarkable experience was the Turkish Airlines flight, which involved an unprecedented level of hospitality. +Every passenger was given two excellent meals, blanket, pillow, eye masks, slippers, headphones, and seemingly countless other little amenities. +It's easy to see how Turkish Airlines got its reputation. +</p> + +<img src="IMG_20190919_201715.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Turkish Airlines airplane that took Blaise from Chicago to Istanbul. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190919_224234.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Dinner served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines: +<ul> + <li>chicken breast, penne, zucchini, eggplant</li> + <li>fried eggplant and green pepper, tomato, white cheese</li> + <li>salad with prawn</li> + <li>lemonade with fresh mint</li> +</ul> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190920_055602.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Breakfast served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines: +<ul> + <li>fresh fruit salad</li> + <li>assorted cheese</li> + <li>salad with prawn</li> + <li>scrambled egg with cheese, mushrooms, potatoes, grilled tomato</li> + <li>fresh bread, butter, jam</li> + <li>coffee</li> +</ul> + +<p> +Arriving in Istanbul (early evening Istanbul time), Blaise was greeted by Nancy and Jim at the bus stop. +Blaise was able to unpack before the three of them had a very nice meal at the restaurant across the street. +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="blaise-nancy-meet.jpg"> + <figcaption>Blaise and Nancy meet.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="friday-dinner.jpg"> + <figcaption>Travelers enjoy dinner at a local restaraunt.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<hr> +<h2 id=2019-09-21><a href=#2019-09-21>2019-09-21 Saturday</a></h2> + +<h3>Morning Walk</h3> + +<p> +Nancy and Blaise started the morning with a walk along the Sea of Marmara, near the hotel. +They saw divers with harpoons, fishermen, cats and dogs near the sea. +After walking along the water for roughly 30 minutes, they turned around and returned to the hotel through the city. +This included passing through the seafood restaurant area, several blocks worth of just seafood restaurants. +</p> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_091946.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +View of the Marmara sea. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_092759.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Seafood restaurant district. Early in the morning, so most restaurants are closed. <br> + +<h3>Hagia Sophia</h3> + +<p> +At 10:30 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided tour of Hagia Sophia. +On the way, they explored the Hippodrome and saw the Alman Çeşmesi. +</p> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_103539.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Alman Çeşmesi, exterior. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_103650.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Alman Çeşmesi, interior. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_103904.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Hagia Sophia as seen from the Hippodrome. <br> +<br> + +<p> +Their guide was from Bulgaria, with a mother born in Erzincan. +There was a long line to enter into Hagia Sophia, but once inside it wasn't too crowded. +The entire building is under constant restoration, exterior and interior. +</p> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_113821.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Hagia Sophpia exterior, detail. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_115354.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Outer corridor. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_115510.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +View of inner corridor, detail of main door only to be used by emperors.<br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_120536.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Internal sanctuary of Hagia Sophia. +The top dome has 40 windows. +One of the triangular pendentives can be seen, a large architectural innovation to support heavy domes. +Much is under restoration.<br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_123241.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Interior shot of Hagia Sophia, featuring stained glass windows. +The door-like structure is oriented towards Mecca for Muslim prayer. +The lamps were placed low to the ground so that they could be lit as candles. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_123247.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Special stairway used by Muslim imans for delivering messages to congregation. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_125241.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Interior of Hagia Sophia, featuring column detail and special lamp.<br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_124354.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Interior of Hagia Sophia, focusing on angel artwork. +Muslims believe that all faces must be covered in worship areas. +The face of this angel was covered when Hagia Sophia became a mosque.<br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_124646.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Looking out from Hagia Sophia. +In the distance, the minarets of the blue mosque can be seen. <br> +<br> + +<h3>Bazaars of Istanbul</h3> + +<p> +After Hagia Sophia Nancy, Jim, and Blaise toured the streets of Istanbul including several bazaars. +First, they visited the Grand Bazzar. +</p> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_143225.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +One of the entrances to Istanbul's Grand Bazaar. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_143515.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Jim and Blaise inside the Grand Bazaar. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_143622.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Lighting store inside the Grand Bazaar. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_153435.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Water closet at the Grand Bazaar. +All toilets were pay-to-enter. +They were squat toilets.<br> + +<p> +Then the spice market, a smaller bazaar near Galata Bridge with a focus on spices and food. +</p> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_160321.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +The Spice Market. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_160401.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Nancy and Blaise at the Spice Market. <br> +<br> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_160535.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Large chunks of turkish delight being displayed at the Spice Market. <br> + +<p> +There were even markets in unexpected places, such as this one which they stumbled upon in a tunnel underneath the interstate. +</p> + +<img src="IMG_20190921_161210.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +A bazaar located in a tunnel under the interstate. +<br> + +<h3>Bosphorus boat tour</h3> + +<p> +At 17:00 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided boat tour of the Bosphorus straight. +</p> + +<img src="IMG_20190922_093007.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Bosphorus tour route. <br> +<br> + +<figure> + <img src="dolmabahce.jpg"> + <figcaption>View of Dolmabahce Palace from the Bosphorus.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="boat-selfie.jpg"> + <figcaption>Travelers pose during the Bosphorus boat tour.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<h3>dinner</h3> + +<figure> + <img src="bridge-dinner.jpg"> + <figcaption>Nancy and Blaise enjoy the view during dinner.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<figure> + <img src="bridge.jpg"> + <figcaption>Wharf where the travelers ate dinner.</figcaption> +</figure> + +</body> +</html> |