1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
129
130
131
132
133
134
135
136
137
138
139
140
141
142
143
144
145
146
147
148
149
150
151
152
153
154
155
156
157
158
159
160
161
162
163
164
165
166
167
168
169
170
171
172
173
174
175
176
177
178
179
180
181
182
183
184
185
186
187
188
189
190
191
192
193
194
195
196
197
198
199
200
201
202
203
204
205
206
207
208
209
210
211
212
213
214
215
216
217
218
219
220
221
222
223
224
225
226
227
228
229
230
231
232
233
234
235
236
237
238
239
240
241
242
243
244
245
246
247
248
249
250
251
252
253
254
255
256
257
258
259
260
261
262
263
264
265
266
267
268
269
270
271
272
273
274
275
276
277
278
279
280
281
282
283
284
285
286
287
288
289
290
291
292
293
294
295
296
297
298
299
300
301
302
303
304
305
306
307
308
309
310
311
312
313
314
315
316
317
318
319
320
321
322
323
324
325
326
327
328
329
330
331
332
333
334
335
336
337
338
339
340
341
342
343
344
345
346
347
348
349
350
351
352
353
354
355
356
357
358
359
360
361
362
363
364
365
366
367
368
369
370
371
372
373
374
375
376
377
378
379
380
381
382
383
384
385
386
387
388
389
390
391
392
393
394
395
396
397
398
399
400
401
402
403
404
405
406
407
408
409
410
411
412
413
414
415
416
417
418
419
420
421
422
423
424
425
426
427
428
429
430
431
432
433
434
435
436
437
438
439
440
441
442
443
444
445
446
447
448
449
450
451
452
453
454
455
456
457
458
459
460
461
462
463
464
465
466
467
468
469
470
471
472
473
474
475
476
477
478
479
480
481
482
483
484
485
486
487
488
489
490
491
492
493
494
495
496
497
498
499
500
501
502
503
504
505
506
507
508
509
510
511
512
513
514
515
516
517
518
519
520
521
522
523
524
525
526
527
528
529
530
531
532
533
|
<!DOCTYPE html>
<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
<html>
<head>
<meta charset="utf-8">
<title>Istanbul</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
</head>
<body>
<h1>Istanbul</h1>
Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
<hr>
<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
<h3>Nancy, James Jerusalem to Istanbul</h3>
<p>
The travelers flew from Telaviv to Istanbul and caught a cab.
The cab ride covered a distance of about 60 miles.
</p>
<p>
It is good that the airport has many moving sidewalks because the place is HUGE.
It took the travelers a long time to get from the places where they debarked the plane to the place where they collected their luggage, went through security and found a cab.
</p>
<figure>
<img src="airport-walkway.jpg">
<figcaption>Istanbul Airport walkway.</figcaption>
</figure>
<h3>Istanbul Overview</h3>
<p>
Istanbul is a popular place to visit with a long and important history.
The travelers wanted to experience this place and gain some understanding of what life may have been like for Yesia when he lived there.
Yesia began working in Istanbul when he was 13 and lived there until he was 17 when he immigrated to the US (1900) due to Turkish fear of Armenian revolutionaries.
</p>
<h3>Basileus Hotel</h3>
<p>
The travelers arrived at <a href=https://www.basileushotel.com/>Basileus Hotel</a>, their home away from home in Istanbul.
</p>
<figure>
<img src="basileus-exterior.jpg">
<figcaption>Basileus exterior.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="basileus-nancy.jpg">
<figcaption>Nancy naps in her Basileus bed.</figcaption>
</figure>
<h3>Istanbul first reactions</h3>
<p>
There seem to be lots of dogs and cats roaming the streets.
It appeared that they were all fed and perhaps even vaccinated.
</p>
<figure>
<img src="dogs.jpg">
<figcaption>Public Istanbul dogs.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>
The travelers enjoyed turkish delight candy.
</p>
<figure>
<img src="turkish-delight.jpg">
<figcaption>Turkish delight being sold at a local shop.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>
Hagia Sophia at sunset was a special sight.
</p>
<figure>
<img src="hagia-sophia-sunset.jpg">
<figcaption>Hagia Sophia at sunset.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>
The travelers had dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant.
Both Jim and Nancy had an entire bowl (meant to be for dipping) of jajikh.
</p>
<figure>
<img src="three-partners.jpg">
<figcaption>Dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant.</figcaption>
</figure>
<hr>
<h2 id=2019-09-19><a href=#2019-09-19>2019-09-19 Thursday</a></h2>
<h3>breakfast</h3>
<p>
The travelers learned that Turkish breakfast is quite different from "continental style".
</p>
<figure>
<img src="breakfast.jpg">
<figcaption>Basileus hotel breakfast.</figcaption>
</figure>
<h3>Sultan's Palace</h3>
<p>
The travelers visited the <a href=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topkap%C4%B1_Palace>Sultan's Palace</a>.
</p>
<figure>
<img src="sultan-wall.jpg">
<figcaption>Outer wall of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="sultan-gate.jpg">
<figcaption>Inner gate of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="sultan-model.jpg">
<figcaption>3D model of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="sultan-pebbles.jpg">
<figcaption>Pebble art at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="sultan-wall-detail.jpg">
<figcaption>Interesting wall detail at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="sultan-tile-ceiling.jpg">
<figcaption>Tile ceiling in one of the kiosks on the property.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="harem-building.jpg">
<figcaption>The Harem building on the sultan’s property.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="sultan-toilet.jpg">
<figcaption>Toilet for the sultan's mother.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="sultan-lighting.jpg">
<figcaption>Interesting lighting.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="sultan-fireplace.jpg">
<figcaption>Fireplace in the Sultan’s bedroom.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="sultan-bedroom-window.jpg">
<figcaption>Sultan's bedroom window.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="sultan-drainage.jpg">
<figcaption>Fancy drainage system.</figcaption>
</figure>
<h3>Hrant Dink Foundation</h3>
<p>
After lunch the travelers undertook to find the offices of the <a href=https://hrantdink.org/tr/>Hrant Dink Organization</a> located on the Asian side of Istanbul.
They had the address but had trouble finding it.
Finally they did find it with the help of Jim’s phone GPS and a hand drawn map by a tattoo artist who worked in a shop nearby.
Once there, they were given helpful information about visiting Istanbul, Kayseri and Erzindjan.
The staff were interested in the fact that the travelers were visiting Develi in an attempt to see where the property Yesia inherited may have been.
Evidently this organization is in the process of suing the Turkish government which claims that Armenians who left Turkey before the genocide as Turkish citizens should be entitled to reparations.
They do not intend to be part of this lawsuit, but wonder if Turkish documents about Yesia might have indicated if he was a Turkish citizen when he left in 1900.
</p>
<p>
After spending the afternoon in this way, the travelers enjoyed a nice dinner before bed.
</p>
<figure>
<img src="nancy-dinner.jpg">
<figcaption>Nancy enjoys dinner.</figcaption>
</figure>
<hr>
<h2 id=2019-09-20><a href=#2019-09-20>2019-09-20 Friday</a></h2>
<h3>Basilica Cistern</h3>
<p>
Jim and Nancy tour The Basilica Cistern- used by Romans to bring water via aquaducts to the city.
7000 slaves dug the hole (9 feet deep, 140 feet long and 70 feet wide) in 9 months.
</p>
<figure>
<img src="cistern-columns.jpg">
<figcaption>Many columns, some reused from other places.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="weeping-column.jpg">
<figcaption>The weeping column- dedicated to the many workers died in the process of constructing the place.</figcaption>
</figure>
<h3>Armenian district</h3>
<figure>
<img src="coffee-sand.jpg">
<figcaption>Making Turkish coffee in sand.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="steps.jpg">
<figcaption>Steep colored steps on a street.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="fixer-upper.jpg">
<figcaption>Lots of fixer-uppers.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="sweat-shop.jpg">
<figcaption>Sweat shops are in the basements of various businesses.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="armenian-church-exterior.jpg">
<figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church exterior.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="armenian-church-interior.jpg">
<figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church interior.
Lit two candles for Azniv here.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="armenian-church-caretaker.jpg">
<figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church caretaker.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="shoes.jpg">
<figcaption>Many, many shoe businesses, as there where when Yesia worked for his shoemaker uncle.</figcaption>
</figure>
<h3>Blaise travels Madison to Istanbul</h3>
<p>
Blaise left Madison mid-afternoon Wisconsin time, traveling to Istanbul to meet Nancy and Jim.
This involved a short flight Madison → Chicago, an ~11 hour flight Chicago → Istanbul, and a hour long bus ride to get downtown.
The most remarkable experience was the Turkish Airlines flight, which involved an unprecedented level of hospitality.
Every passenger was given two excellent meals, blanket, pillow, eye masks, slippers, headphones, and seemingly countless other little amenities.
It's easy to see how Turkish Airlines got its reputation.
</p>
<img src="IMG_20190919_201715.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Turkish Airlines airplane that took Blaise from Chicago to Istanbul. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190919_224234.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Dinner served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
<ul>
<li>chicken breast, penne, zucchini, eggplant</li>
<li>fried eggplant and green pepper, tomato, white cheese</li>
<li>salad with prawn</li>
<li>lemonade with fresh mint</li>
</ul>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190920_055602.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Breakfast served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
<ul>
<li>fresh fruit salad</li>
<li>assorted cheese</li>
<li>salad with prawn</li>
<li>scrambled egg with cheese, mushrooms, potatoes, grilled tomato</li>
<li>fresh bread, butter, jam</li>
<li>coffee</li>
</ul>
<p>
Arriving in Istanbul (early evening Istanbul time), Blaise was greeted by Nancy and Jim at the bus stop.
Blaise was able to unpack before the three of them had a very nice meal at the restaurant across the street.
</p>
<figure>
<img src="blaise-nancy-meet.jpg">
<figcaption>Blaise and Nancy meet.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="friday-dinner.jpg">
<figcaption>Travelers enjoy dinner at a local restaraunt.</figcaption>
</figure>
<hr>
<h2 id=2019-09-21><a href=#2019-09-21>2019-09-21 Saturday</a></h2>
<h3>Morning Walk</h3>
<p>
Nancy and Blaise started the morning with a walk along the Sea of Marmara, near the hotel.
They saw divers with harpoons, fishermen, cats and dogs near the sea.
After walking along the water for roughly 30 minutes, they turned around and returned to the hotel through the city.
This included passing through the seafood restaurant area, several blocks worth of just seafood restaurants.
</p>
<img src="IMG_20190921_091946.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
View of the Marmara sea. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_092759.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Seafood restaurant district. Early in the morning, so most restaurants are closed. <br>
<h3>Hagia Sophia</h3>
<p>
At 10:30 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided tour of Hagia Sophia.
On the way, they explored the Hippodrome and saw the Alman Çeşmesi.
</p>
<img src="IMG_20190921_103539.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Alman Çeşmesi, exterior. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_103650.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Alman Çeşmesi, interior. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_103904.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Hagia Sophia as seen from the Hippodrome. <br>
<br>
<p>
Their guide was from Bulgaria, with a mother born in Erzincan.
There was a long line to enter into Hagia Sophia, but once inside it wasn't too crowded.
The entire building is under constant restoration, exterior and interior.
</p>
<img src="IMG_20190921_113821.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Hagia Sophpia exterior, detail. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_115354.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Outer corridor. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_115510.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
View of inner corridor, detail of main door only to be used by emperors.<br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_120536.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Internal sanctuary of Hagia Sophia.
The top dome has 40 windows.
One of the triangular pendentives can be seen, a large architectural innovation to support heavy domes.
Much is under restoration.<br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_123241.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Interior shot of Hagia Sophia, featuring stained glass windows.
The door-like structure is oriented towards Mecca for Muslim prayer.
The lamps were placed low to the ground so that they could be lit as candles. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_123247.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Special stairway used by Muslim imans for delivering messages to congregation. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_125241.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Interior of Hagia Sophia, featuring column detail and special lamp.<br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_124354.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Interior of Hagia Sophia, focusing on angel artwork.
Muslims believe that all faces must be covered in worship areas.
The face of this angel was covered when Hagia Sophia became a mosque.<br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_124646.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Looking out from Hagia Sophia.
In the distance, the minarets of the blue mosque can be seen. <br>
<br>
<h3>Bazaars of Istanbul</h3>
<p>
After Hagia Sophia Nancy, Jim, and Blaise toured the streets of Istanbul including several bazaars.
First, they visited the Grand Bazzar.
</p>
<img src="IMG_20190921_143225.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
One of the entrances to Istanbul's Grand Bazaar. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_143515.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Jim and Blaise inside the Grand Bazaar. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_143622.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Lighting store inside the Grand Bazaar. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_153435.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Water closet at the Grand Bazaar.
All toilets were pay-to-enter.
They were squat toilets.<br>
<p>
Then the spice market, a smaller bazaar near Galata Bridge with a focus on spices and food.
</p>
<img src="IMG_20190921_160321.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
The Spice Market. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_160401.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Nancy and Blaise at the Spice Market. <br>
<br>
<img src="IMG_20190921_160535.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Large chunks of turkish delight being displayed at the Spice Market. <br>
<p>
There were even markets in unexpected places, such as this one which they stumbled upon in a tunnel underneath the interstate.
</p>
<img src="IMG_20190921_161210.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
A bazaar located in a tunnel under the interstate.
<br>
<h3>Bosphorus boat tour</h3>
<p>
At 17:00 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided boat tour of the Bosphorus straight.
</p>
<img src="IMG_20190922_093007.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Bosphorus tour route. <br>
<br>
<figure>
<img src="dolmabahce.jpg">
<figcaption>View of Dolmabahce Palace from the Bosphorus.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="boat-selfie.jpg">
<figcaption>Travelers pose during the Bosphorus boat tour.</figcaption>
</figure>
<h3>dinner</h3>
<figure>
<img src="bridge-dinner.jpg">
<figcaption>Nancy and Blaise enjoy the view during dinner.</figcaption>
</figure>
<figure>
<img src="bridge.jpg">
<figcaption>Wharf where the travelers ate dinner.</figcaption>
</figure>
</body>
</html>
|
