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+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>Istanbul</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Istanbul</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Nancy, James Jerusalem to Istanbul</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers flew from Telaviv to Istanbul and caught a cab.
+The cab ride covered a distance of about 60 miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is good that the airport has many moving sidewalks because the place is HUGE.
+It took the travelers a long time to get from the places where they debarked the plane to the place where they collected their luggage, went through security and found a cab.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="airport-walkway.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Istanbul Airport walkway.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Istanbul Overview</h3>
+
+<p>
+Istanbul is a popular place to visit with a long and important history.
+The travelers wanted to experience this place and gain some understanding of what life may have been like for Yesia when he lived there.
+Yesia began working in Istanbul when he was 13 and lived there until he was 17 when he immigrated to the US (1900) due to Turkish fear of Armenian revolutionaries.
+</p>
+
+<h3>Basileus Hotel</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers arrived at <a href=https://www.basileushotel.com/>Basileus Hotel</a>, their home away from home in Istanbul.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="basileus-exterior.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Basileus exterior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="basileus-nancy.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Nancy naps in her Basileus bed.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Istanbul first reactions</h3>
+
+<p>
+There seem to be lots of dogs and cats roaming the streets.
+It appeared that they were all fed and perhaps even vaccinated.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dogs.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Public Istanbul dogs.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers enjoyed turkish delight candy.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="turkish-delight.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Turkish delight being sold at a local shop.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Hagia Sophia at sunset was a special sight.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="hagia-sophia-sunset.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Hagia Sophia at sunset.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers had dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant.
+Both Jim and Nancy had an entire bowl (meant to be for dipping) of jajikh.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="three-partners.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-19><a href=#2019-09-19>2019-09-19 Thursday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>breakfast</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers learned that Turkish breakfast is quite different from "continental style".
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="breakfast.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Basileus hotel breakfast.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Sultan's Palace</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited the <a href=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topkap%C4%B1_Palace>Sultan's Palace</a>.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-wall.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Outer wall of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-gate.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Inner gate of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-model.jpg">
+ <figcaption>3D model of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-pebbles.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Pebble art at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-wall-detail.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Interesting wall detail at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-tile-ceiling.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Tile ceiling in one of the kiosks on the property.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="harem-building.jpg">
+ <figcaption>The Harem building on the sultan’s property.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-toilet.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Toilet for the sultan's mother.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-lighting.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Interesting lighting.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-fireplace.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Fireplace in the Sultan’s bedroom.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-bedroom-window.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Sultan's bedroom window.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-drainage.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Fancy drainage system.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Hrant Dink Foundation</h3>
+
+<p>
+After lunch the travelers undertook to find the offices of the <a href=https://hrantdink.org/tr/>Hrant Dink Organization</a> located on the Asian side of Istanbul.
+They had the address but had trouble finding it.
+Finally they did find it with the help of Jim’s phone GPS and a hand drawn map by a tattoo artist who worked in a shop nearby.
+Once there, they were given helpful information about visiting Istanbul, Kayseri and Erzindjan.
+The staff were interested in the fact that the travelers were visiting Develi in an attempt to see where the property Yesia inherited may have been.
+Evidently this organization is in the process of suing the Turkish government which claims that Armenians who left Turkey before the genocide as Turkish citizens should be entitled to reparations.
+They do not intend to be part of this lawsuit, but wonder if Turkish documents about Yesia might have indicated if he was a Turkish citizen when he left in 1900.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After spending the afternoon in this way, the travelers enjoyed a nice dinner before bed.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="nancy-dinner.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Nancy enjoys dinner.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-20><a href=#2019-09-20>2019-09-20 Friday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Basilica Cistern</h3>
+
+<p>
+Jim and Nancy tour The Basilica Cistern- used by Romans to bring water via aquaducts to the city.
+7000 slaves dug the hole (9 feet deep, 140 feet long and 70 feet wide) in 9 months.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="cistern-columns.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Many columns, some reused from other places.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="weeping-column.jpg">
+ <figcaption>The weeping column- dedicated to the many workers died in the process of constructing the place.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Armenian district</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="coffee-sand.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Making Turkish coffee in sand.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="steps.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Steep colored steps on a street.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="fixer-upper.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Lots of fixer-uppers.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sweat-shop.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Sweat shops are in the basements of various businesses.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-church-exterior.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church exterior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-church-interior.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church interior.
+ Lit two candles for Azniv here.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-church-caretaker.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church caretaker.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="shoes.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Many, many shoe businesses, as there where when Yesia worked for his shoemaker uncle.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Blaise travels Madison to Istanbul</h3>
+
+<p>
+Blaise left Madison mid-afternoon Wisconsin time, traveling to Istanbul to meet Nancy and Jim.
+This involved a short flight Madison → Chicago, an ~11 hour flight Chicago → Istanbul, and a hour long bus ride to get downtown.
+The most remarkable experience was the Turkish Airlines flight, which involved an unprecedented level of hospitality.
+Every passenger was given two excellent meals, blanket, pillow, eye masks, slippers, headphones, and seemingly countless other little amenities.
+It's easy to see how Turkish Airlines got its reputation.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190919_201715.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Turkish Airlines airplane that took Blaise from Chicago to Istanbul. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190919_224234.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Dinner served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
+<ul>
+ <li>chicken breast, penne, zucchini, eggplant</li>
+ <li>fried eggplant and green pepper, tomato, white cheese</li>
+ <li>salad with prawn</li>
+ <li>lemonade with fresh mint</li>
+</ul>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190920_055602.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Breakfast served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
+<ul>
+ <li>fresh fruit salad</li>
+ <li>assorted cheese</li>
+ <li>salad with prawn</li>
+ <li>scrambled egg with cheese, mushrooms, potatoes, grilled tomato</li>
+ <li>fresh bread, butter, jam</li>
+ <li>coffee</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>
+Arriving in Istanbul (early evening Istanbul time), Blaise was greeted by Nancy and Jim at the bus stop.
+Blaise was able to unpack before the three of them had a very nice meal at the restaurant across the street.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="blaise-nancy-meet.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Blaise and Nancy meet.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="friday-dinner.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Travelers enjoy dinner at a local restaraunt.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-21><a href=#2019-09-21>2019-09-21 Saturday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Morning Walk</h3>
+
+<p>
+Nancy and Blaise started the morning with a walk along the Sea of Marmara, near the hotel.
+They saw divers with harpoons, fishermen, cats and dogs near the sea.
+After walking along the water for roughly 30 minutes, they turned around and returned to the hotel through the city.
+This included passing through the seafood restaurant area, several blocks worth of just seafood restaurants.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_091946.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+View of the Marmara sea. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_092759.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Seafood restaurant district. Early in the morning, so most restaurants are closed. <br>
+
+<h3>Hagia Sophia</h3>
+
+<p>
+At 10:30 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided tour of Hagia Sophia.
+On the way, they explored the Hippodrome and saw the Alman Çeşmesi.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_103539.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Alman Çeşmesi, exterior. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_103650.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Alman Çeşmesi, interior. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_103904.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Hagia Sophia as seen from the Hippodrome. <br>
+<br>
+
+<p>
+Their guide was from Bulgaria, with a mother born in Erzincan.
+There was a long line to enter into Hagia Sophia, but once inside it wasn't too crowded.
+The entire building is under constant restoration, exterior and interior.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_113821.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Hagia Sophpia exterior, detail. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_115354.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Outer corridor. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_115510.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+View of inner corridor, detail of main door only to be used by emperors.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_120536.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Internal sanctuary of Hagia Sophia.
+The top dome has 40 windows.
+One of the triangular pendentives can be seen, a large architectural innovation to support heavy domes.
+Much is under restoration.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_123241.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Interior shot of Hagia Sophia, featuring stained glass windows.
+The door-like structure is oriented towards Mecca for Muslim prayer.
+The lamps were placed low to the ground so that they could be lit as candles. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_123247.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Special stairway used by Muslim imans for delivering messages to congregation. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_125241.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Interior of Hagia Sophia, featuring column detail and special lamp.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_124354.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Interior of Hagia Sophia, focusing on angel artwork.
+Muslims believe that all faces must be covered in worship areas.
+The face of this angel was covered when Hagia Sophia became a mosque.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_124646.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Looking out from Hagia Sophia.
+In the distance, the minarets of the blue mosque can be seen. <br>
+<br>
+
+<h3>Bazaars of Istanbul</h3>
+
+<p>
+After Hagia Sophia Nancy, Jim, and Blaise toured the streets of Istanbul including several bazaars.
+First, they visited the Grand Bazzar.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_143225.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+One of the entrances to Istanbul's Grand Bazaar. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_143515.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Jim and Blaise inside the Grand Bazaar. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_143622.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Lighting store inside the Grand Bazaar. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_153435.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Water closet at the Grand Bazaar.
+All toilets were pay-to-enter.
+They were squat toilets.<br>
+
+<p>
+Then the spice market, a smaller bazaar near Galata Bridge with a focus on spices and food.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_160321.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+The Spice Market. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_160401.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy and Blaise at the Spice Market. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_160535.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Large chunks of turkish delight being displayed at the Spice Market. <br>
+
+<p>
+There were even markets in unexpected places, such as this one which they stumbled upon in a tunnel underneath the interstate.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_161210.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+A bazaar located in a tunnel under the interstate.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Bosphorus boat tour</h3>
+
+<p>
+At 17:00 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided boat tour of the Bosphorus straight.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190922_093007.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Bosphorus tour route. <br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dolmabahce.jpg">
+ <figcaption>View of Dolmabahce Palace from the Bosphorus.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="boat-selfie.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Travelers pose during the Bosphorus boat tour.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>dinner</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="bridge-dinner.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Nancy and Blaise enjoy the view during dinner.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="bridge.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Wharf where the travelers ate dinner.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+</body>
+</html>
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