diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html')
| -rw-r--r-- | source/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html | 455 |
1 files changed, 455 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html b/source/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..85db243 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html @@ -0,0 +1,455 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no"> +<html> +<head> + <meta charset="utf-8"> + <title>Erzincan & Kemah</title> + <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css"> +</head> +<body> + +<h1>Erzincan & Kemah</h1> + +Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a> + +<hr> + +<h3>note: historical vs modern Erzincan</h3> + +<p> +Erzindjan is now north of the location as of 1907. +When Azniv was born, Erzindjan and the surrounding area was part of Armenia. +It was made part of Turkey in 1920 after the conclusion of WW1. +Besides the genocide, Erzindjan is earthquake prone. +In 1254 William Rubruck said more than 10,000 people were killed by an earthquake. +In 1939 there was another earthquake which led to the death of 32,962. +The old site was entirely abandoned and the town was relocated to the north. +</p> + +<h3>note: family connection with Erzindjan</h3> + +<p> +The following photo was taken in 1906, four years after Stepan and his family arrived in the US. +Standing from left to right in the back row are: Azniv/Agnes Torosian (born Shakargian, who is Nancy and Jim’s maternal grandmother), her brother Arshag and his wife, Nartouhi Pojojian (alternates Nartoo, Pazozian, Posozian). +The adults sitting from left to right in the front row are Nancy and Jim’s great-grandmother, Lucien Shakargian (born Donegian), and great-grandfather, Stepan Shakargian. +The family believes two of the children are Arshag's children but the third child may be one of the sister's, Eva Kapigian (born Shakargian) children. +The travelers think Azniv was born in Erzindjan proper rather than adjacent villages because: 1) they used the Turkish bath house which was a Roman ruin, 2) they had a shop where folks bought things- perhaps sugar, candy, coffee, 3) Azniv went to a school and the city had a school for girls (Chrisdinian). +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="family-photo.png"> + <figcaption>Shakargian family photo.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<hr> +<h2 id=2019-09-22><a href=#2019-09-22>2019-09-22 Sunday</a></h2> + +<h3>arrival</h3> + +<p> +The travelers took a 1.5 hour flight from Istanbul to Erzincan, arriving around 15:00. +Erzincan is a medium sized city, with an official population roughly 37,000. +The true population is twice that, with many of the undocumented being Roma. +The airport is quite modern and nice, funded extensively by Russians. +</p> + +<img src="erzincan-airport.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Erzincan airport. <br> + +<p> +The city of Erzincan has been almost entirely rebuilt since the 1939 earthquake. +Unlike other cities visited by the travelers, the roads are clearly planned and the buildings seem quite modern. +</p> + +<p> +The travelers stayed at Hayat Home Suite in the center of town. +The hotel was quite nice, more like an apartment than a typical hotel room. +There were two small bedrooms, a bathroom including washing machine, kitchen complete with stove, and a very large living and dining room. +Jim and Nancy took the bedrooms, while Blaise slept on the living room couch. +Total cost of hotel was 480 TL for two nights. +</p> + +<img src="erzincan-hotel.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Living and dining room of Erzincan hotel. <br> + +<h3>dinner</h3> + +<p> +The travelers met their guide (Ahmet Cetin) and his driver. +The driver spoke only Turkish and was not very communicative for the entire trip. +All five enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant. +Credit cards were a problem, but the travelers were able to withdraw cash from nearby ATMs. +After dinner, all five visited a local bar to plan the trip. +At the bar, Nancy enjoyed drinking special Erzincan carbonated lemon drink (Kizilay). +</p> + +<h3>Tevhit Karakaya</h3> + +<p> +On the flight from Istanbul to Erzincan Nancy was placed in first class for some reason. +Nancy sat next to a local politician and business man <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tevhit_Karakaya">Tevhit Karakaya</a>. +Tehvit was interested in Nancy's historic photos of Erzincan. +Tevhit did not speak English, but a friend of his translated on the plane. +</p> + +<p> +Tevhit invited the travelers to stop by his hotel to obtain a book of historic Erzincan photos which he himself had compiled. +Once Ahmed heard of the Nancy's interactions with Tevhit, Ahmet called Tevhit and all were invited to meet Tevhit at his hotel. +</p> + +<p> +While at the hotel, Tevhit and his associates asked Nancy and Jim for more information regarding their Erzincan relatives. +All enjoyed tea and special Erzincan grapes. +The travelers needed to be instructed to eat the grape seeds, and indeed the seeds were easy to eat and even seemed to enhance the grape texture. +The grapes were very sweet and the seeds were not at all bitter. +</p> + +<img src="with-karakaya.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +The travelers meet with Tevhit Karakaya (far right). +Picture taken in lobby of Karakaya hotel. +Note grapes held by Nancy. <br> + +<hr> +<h2 id=2019-09-23><a href=#2019-09-23>2019-09-23 Monday</a></h2> + +<h3>breakfast</h3> + +<p> +At around 09:00, the travelers met with Ahmet and started their day with breakfast at a local restaurant, Siber Bilişim Sistemleri. +It was a typical middle eastern breakfast with a large variety of options. +The travelers enjoyed trying rose petal jam, similar to that made by Azniv Torosian and remembered as part of Nancy and Jim's childhood. +</p> + +<img src="monday-breakfast.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Jim and Nancy enjoy breakfast. <br> + +<h3>old Erzincan</h3> + +<p> +Nancy and Jim's Grandmother (Azniv Torosian, nee Shakargian) was born in old Erzincan. +She left in 1902 with her parents, one brother, and the brother's wife and children. +An additional sister stayed behind as she was already married. +Azniv was roughly 16 years old at the time. +The travelers attempted to visit the place where Azniv and her family had lived. +</p> + +<p> +Nancy's notes contained a picture of old Erzincan (1907) behind which a particular view of the mountain range could be seen. +This was Mount Kazen Kaya. +It was also known that old Erzincan was next to the Euphrates river. +Since the earthquake and rebuilding, there are almost no remaining structures or clues about the position of old Erzincan. +Still, the travelers were able to find the mountain view as seen in the old pictures, and also where the Euphrates currently flows. +</p> + +<figure> + <img src="labeled.png"> + <figcaption>Old Erzincan.</figcaption> +</figure> + +<img src="old-mountains.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Nancy and Jim pose in front of the mountain range from Nancy's notes. +Immediately behind the photographer is the Euphrates river. +[39.691N, 39.504E]<br> +<br> + +<img src="erzincan-mountain-detail.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Detail of foothills adjacent to Mount Kazen Kaya. <br> + +<h3>cemetery</h3> + +<p> +Travelers attempted to see the ruins of an Armenian cemetery, but were taken to a muslim cemetery instead. +Saw tomb of a female Turkish soldier that died as a suicide bomber. +</p> + +<img src="tomb.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Tomb of a Turkish soldier. +[39.717N,39.498E] <br> + +<h3>drive to Kemah</h3> + +<p> +The travelers headed to Kemah, which is about 40 miles from Erzincan by car. +Along the way many military instillations were seen. +The car passed through a check point, which our guide was able to talk his way through without difficulty. +The Turkish government has military in this region due to fears of Kurdish and Syrian terrorist attacks from the south. +</p> + +<p> +Along the drive, the travelers stopped at Kemah gorge, which is now used as a point of recreation (base jumping, climbing etc.) +There is a turkish monument at this place which memorializes a truckload of soldiers that died here in a car accident on the bridge. +This was undoubtedly one of the many places between Erzincan and Kemah where 25,000 Armenians were thrown into the Euphrates river (1915). +This gorge is 13 km from the town of Kemah. +</p> + +<img src="kemah-gorge.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Kemah gorge. +[39.653N, 39.360E] <br> + +<h3>Kemah</h3> + +<p> +Nancy and Jim's Great Grandmother, Azniv's mother, Lucien Donegian is believed by the travelers to have grown up in the Kemah area. +Azniv's father, Stephan Shekargian, was living in Erzincan and traveled two days by horse to marry Lucien. +Azniv described trips to visit Lucien's family, where wonderful stones sparkled in the sun. +It's likely true that Lucien was from one of the several Kemah-associated villages. +</p> + +<p> +Arriving in Kemah, the travelers found the location of another photograph from Nancy's notes: the Kemah Fort. +They were able to find the exact point where the photograph was taken. +</p> + +<img src="kemah-fort-drawing.png" + alt="" + width="100%"> + +<img src="kemah-ruins.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Nancy and Jim pose in front of Kemah Fort. +[39.603N, 39.0372E] <br> + +<p> +The Fort was built into a mountain which gives a good view of modern Kemah. +There were also caves that had been fortified, and an ongoing archaeological excavation. +</p> + +<img src="kemah.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Town of Kemah as seen from Kemah Fort. [39.604N, 39.035E] <br> + +<p> +Beside Kemah, on the other side of the Euphrates river, is a large ridge which is currently occupied by a Turkish millitary outpost. +The travelers believe that this is the famous ridge from which 25,000 Armenians were thrown to their death between June 10 through 14, 1915. +Oral history describes the Euphrates filled with bodies and red with blood. +Before that time, many Armenians lived peacefully in this area. +In 2019 the city of Kemah contains just 2000 people, all Turkish. +</p> + +<img src="kemah-ridge.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Kemah ridge as seen from Kemah Fort. [39.604N, 39.036E]<br> + +<p> +After visiting Kemah Fort, the travelers spent some time in the Kemah city center. +Once Ahmet suggested tea, it was remarkable how quickly the young friend was able to procure it. +Kemah seems like a nice city, with local cats, dogs, and chickens. +The town is clean and bustling with activity. +</p> + +<h3>lunch</h3> + +<p> +The travelers had lunch at a rustic outdoor restaurant called Kemah Alabalık Tesisleri. +Specialty was trout, and delicious Shepherd's Salad. +The lunch featured special salt mined near Kemah. +There was a pomegranate sauce that was excellent on the salad: nar ekşisi kalori. +</p> + +<img src="kemah-lunch.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Travelers enjoying lunch. [39.614N, 39.038E]<br> + +<h3>Kemeryaka</h3> + +<p> +The travelers were interested in trying to find the exact village where Lucien Donegian grew up. +In pursuit of this, Ahmet took them to the local village of Kemeryaka. +There they found many village men doing construction working together to build a new brick house in the center of town. +All shared tea and great conversation as translated by Ahmet. +In conversation, they recommended that the travelers visit Morik. +The crucial piece of information in recommending Morik was Nancy's remembering that Azniv had said the place where her mother grew up had a storage area where many (including Kurds) stored their freshly caught meat. +</p> + +<img src="kemeryaka-group.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Travelers meet with men of Kemeryaka. [39.550N, 39.068E]<br> + +<h3>stone khachkar</h3> + +<p> +It seems that local Turkish people believe that Armenians were some kind of treasure keepers, rich magical people of old. +The people of Kemeryaka seem excited to show the travelers some local "mythical" signs of historic Armenian presence. +One of the village elders jokes that when the travelers find the Armenian treasure they can split it "50/50". +There are interesting parallels between stereotypes about Armenians and those about Jews. +</p> + +<p> +Joined by several teenage boys from Kemeryaka, the travelers drove to a place where khachkars (crosses) had been carved into the stone by previous Armenian dwellers. +The valley that they visited was truly beautiful, and it was powerful to see sure signs of Armenian presence. +One of the two khachkars had recently been destroyed by other treasure seekers. +The travelers theorize that these khachkars were used as road markers for an old mountain pass. +</p> + +<img src="khatch1.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Khachkar carved into stone. [39.546N,39.0648E]<br> +<br> + +<img src="khatch2.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Travelers discuss khachkares. +Note two other khachkars on the right hand side of the photo. +[39.544N, 39.063E] <br> +<br> + +<img src="khatch3.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Second khachkar, destroyed. +[39.544N, 39.065E]<br> +<br> + +<img src="khatch4.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Second khachkar, detail.Note crosses above, writing below, and star or flower. +[39.544N, 39.065E]<br> +<br> + +<img src="khatch5.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Mountains where khachkars were carved. +[39.548N, 39.0648E]<br> + +<h3>Morik</h3> + +<p> +As mentioned earlier, one unique feature of Lucien's village was their unique storage facilities for meat and cheese. +These facilities were used by many local villages and nomadic Kurds as they were quite valuable. +When the travelers mentioned this to the men of Kemeryaka, those men instantly agreed that the village in question was likely Morik. +Morik's old name was Ayranpınar. +</p> + +<p> +On the way to Morik, the travelers dropped off the teenage boys from Kemeryaka and picked up an adult man Mehmet who seemed to be a local leader. +Mehmet sat on Ahmet's lap in the front seat for the trip between villages. +As the travelers arrived, the way into the village was blocked by cows. +The village director's son was moving them through the main street. +They drove to the village director's (Umit) home. +All enjoyed an active conversation sharing the reason for visiting and the history of Lucien Donegian. +</p> + +<img src="morik-cows.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Cows on the way into Morik. +[39.634N, 38.998E]<br> +<br> + +<img src="morik-conversation.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Conversation on the deck of Umit, Morik's appointed director, home. +Left to right pictured Ahmet, Umit, Mehmet. +[39.634N, 38.998E]<br> +<br> + +<img src="morik-son.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Son of Umit (right), and his son grandson of Umit (left) during the conversation. +Grandson enjoying fresh tomato. +[39.634N, 38.998E]<br> + +<p> +From Umit's home all rode or hiked up to the storage cave. +Amhed's car couldn't make it all the way up because the mountain became too steep. +Umit shared that the cave is special because the mountain makes ice there all year round. +Currently it is mainly used for goat cheese (tulum), which develops in the cave for six months. +There are currently 40 tons of cheese inside. +Mehmet himself was storing cheese in the cave, despite the fact that he is from a different village. +</p> + +<img src="jim-tractor.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Jim and Mehmet riding a tractor up the mountain to visit the ice cave. +[39.631N, 38.997E]<br> +<br> + +<img src="morik-hole.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Nancy, Ahmet, and Umit visit the ice cave. +[39.631N, 38.996E]<br> +<br> + +<img src="morik-key.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Umit showing off the key to the ice cave. +[39.631N, 38.996E]<br> + +<p> +Since the ice cave was higher up on the mountain, there was an excellent view of Morik and surroundings. +</p> + +<img src="morik-view.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +View of Morik from near the ice cave. +[39.632N, 38.997E]<br> +<br> + +<img src="nancy-morik.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +Nancy with Morik in the background. +[39.631N, 38.997E]<br> + +<h3>return to Erzincan</h3> + +<p> +The travelers went first to Kemeryaka to drop off Mehmet. +From Mehmet they bought a large amount of local goat cheese (tulum), totaling 630 TL. +Most of this was given to Ahmet and the driver, as there was way too much to take home. +</p> + +<p> +After all this the travelers returned to their hotel in Erzincan and slept well. +</p> + +<hr> +<h2 id=2019-09-24><a href=#2019-09-24>2019-09-24 Tuesday</a></h2> + +<h3>Euphrates</h3> + +<p> +Tuesday morning Nancy placed her feet in the Euphrates river. +The place she chose was not far from the 1907 location of Erzincan. +After this, and breakfast, the travelers set on their way to Cappadocia. +</p> + +<img src="euphrates.jpg" + alt="" + width="100%"> +View of the Euphrates as it was when Nancy placed her feet. +[39.701N, 39.519E]<br> + +</body> +</html> |