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diff --git a/public/2014-solstice-letter/index.html b/public/2014-solstice-letter/index.html
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+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>2014 winter solstice letter</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>2014 winter solstice letter</h1>
+
+<p>
+<a href="..">← back to memories list</a>
+<p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>
+Blaise sent this letter to friends and family to celebrate the winter holiday season, 2014.
+In addition to this html version, you can also download the letter as sent: <a href="./letter.pdf">PDF</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Winter Solstice Greetings - 2014</h2>
+
+<p>
+Hello to all my friends and family.
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For a long time I've wanted to start a tradition of sending out yearly letters.
+In this, the 25th year of my life, I've finally gotten around to doing it.
+I'm inspired by my mother, who has been sending out letters since the 80s.
+It's a wonderful way to keep in contact, and it serves as a great personal record.
+It may seem anachronistic now that we have email and social media, but keeping it a physical letter just feels good.
+Please let me know if your address changes (email is probably best) so I can send you letters in future years.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I'm now a fourth year Analytical Chemistry graduate student at the University of Wisconsin in Madison.
+I do research in the lab of John Wright.
+We do ultrafast, multidimensional spectroscopy of solar materials.
+I'm involved in many projects, but mainly I'm working on BiVO4 and PbSe quantum dots.
+I'll continue this research for another one to two years.
+After that? I'm not too sure yet.
+Grad school has been very fun for me, I really enjoy working in this field and the people that I interact with are all fantastic.
+John in particular is a great mentor personally and scientifically.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As a vacation this year mom and I went out to California by car, primarily to visit bay area relatives.
+It was an all-around stellar experience.
+Driving from Wisconsin to California takes a long time, but the geography is stunningly beautiful.
+Highlights included clouds in Nebraska, Big Trees, Yosemite, and the Bonneville salt flats.
+The bay area itself was also beautiful, of course.
+It's crazy to realize that I haven't been out to see that side of the family since Grandma Betty's funeral in 2005.
+Will have to make a concerted effort to go out west more often.
+Perhaps I'll have to swallow my pride and get on a plane.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="./me.JPG">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Our family cat, Untzag, died unexpectedly in October of this year.
+She was run over by a car.
+Vehrzheen, the family dog, is geriatric and probably not long for this world.
+2015 will probably be the first year in my life without a family dog or cat.
+Ridgeback, my turtle, is still going strong.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Madison continues to be a great city for me.
+I take advantage of it less then I should.
+I'm going out to eat and grab drinks more in recent months.
+The folk community here is very active, and I was able to dance weekly for most of the year.
+I've been taking a break from contradance over the last several months, but plan to dance again come January.
+I was able to see Yelle and Of Montreal in the same month this fall.
+Both were absolutely fantastic live.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Have a great new year.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Blaise J Thompson <br>
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 <br>
+Madison Wisconsin 53703<br>
+<br>
+blaise@untzag.com
+</p>
+
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+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.pdf b/public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
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--- /dev/null
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diff --git a/public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.tex b/public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.tex
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.tex
@@ -0,0 +1,55 @@
+\documentclass{letter}
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{wrapfig}
+
+\newenvironment{sig}[1]%
+ {\begin{list}{}%
+ {\setlength{\leftmargin}{300pt}}%
+ \item[]%
+ }
+ {\end{list}}
+
+\usepackage[margin=0.75in]{geometry}
+
+\begin{document}
+
+\pagenumbering{gobble}
+
+\large{\textbf{Winter Solstice Greetings - 2014}}
+
+
+Hello to all my friends and family. I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months.
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.5\textwidth}
+ \begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.48\textwidth]{me}
+ \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+For a long time I've wanted to start a tradition of sending out yearly letters. In this, the 25th year of my life, I've finally gotten around to doing it. I'm inspired by my mother, who has been sending out letters since the 80s. It's a wonderful way to keep in contact, and it serves as a great personal record. It may seem anachronistic now that we have email and social media, but keeping it a physical letter just feels good. Please let me know if your address changes (email is probably best) so I can send you letters in future years.
+
+I'm now a fourth year Analytical Chemistry graduate student at the University of Wisconsin in Madison. I do research in the lab of John Wright. We do ultrafast, multidimensional spectroscopy of solar materials. I'm involved in many projects, but mainly I'm working on BiVO$_4$ and PbSe quantum dots. I'll continue this research for another one to two years. After that? I'm not too sure yet. Grad school has been very fun for me, I really enjoy working in this field and the people that I interact with are all fantastic. John in particular is a great mentor personally and scientifically.
+
+As a vacation this year mom and I went out to California by car, primarily to visit bay area relatives. It was an all-around stellar experience. Driving from Wisconsin to California takes a long time, but the geography is stunningly beautiful. Highlights included clouds in Nebraska, Big Trees, Yosemite, and the Bonneville salt flats. The bay area itself was also beautiful, of course. It's crazy to realize that I haven't been out to see that side of the family since Grandma Betty's funeral in 2005. Will have to make a concerted effort to go out west more often. Perhaps I'll have to swallow my pride and get on a plane.
+
+Our family cat, Untzag, died unexpectedly in October of this year. She was run over by a car. Vehrzheen, the family dog, is geriatric and probably not long for this world. 2015 will probably be the first year in my life without a family dog or cat. Ridgeback, my turtule, is still going strong.
+
+Madison continues to be a great city for me. I take advantage of it less then I should. I'm going out to eat and grab drinks more in recent months. The folk community here is very active, and I was able to dance weekly for most of the year. I've been taking a break from contradance over the last several months, but plan to dance again come January. I was able to see Yelle and Of Montreal in the same month this fall. Both were absolutely fantastic live.
+
+Have a great new year.
+
+\vspace{10 pt}
+
+\begin{sig}{3cm}
+
+Blaise J Thompson \\*
+
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 \\*
+Madison Wisconsin 53703 \\*
+
+blaise@untzag.com
+
+\end{sig}
+
+
+\end{document}
diff --git a/public/2014-solstice-letter/me.JPG b/public/2014-solstice-letter/me.JPG
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diff --git a/public/2015-solstice-letter/index.html b/public/2015-solstice-letter/index.html
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3471ad9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2015-solstice-letter/index.html
@@ -0,0 +1,92 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>2015 winter solstice letter</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>2015 winter solstice letter</h1>
+
+<p>
+<a href="..">← back to memories list</a>
+<p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>
+Blaise sent this letter to friends and family to celebrate the winter holiday season, 2015.
+In addition to this html version, you can also download the letter as sent: <a href="./letter.pdf">PDF</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Winter Solstice Greetings - 2015</h2>
+
+<p>
+Hello to all my friends and family.
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these unusually warm winter months.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Following time honored Thompson tradition I'm already slipping behind in my holiday greeting card schedule.
+I'm writing this the day \textit{after} winter solstice.
+Madison is unusually warm for the time of year.
+Outside it is very foggy and a large amount of rain is expected later.
+Previous snowfall has long since melted.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I'm now well into my 5th year of graduate school.
+As of early December I've become the senior experimentalist on the femtosecond materials project.
+Older graduate students in the group are still around but are focusing exclusively on finishing their dissertations.
+Projects that I have been working on are finally being published.
+Writing papers is frustrating but enjoyable once done.
+Currently we are caught up to data collected 1.5 years ago, so there is much to do.
+I'm hopeful that 2016 can be a breakout year where we really can use these tools we've created to say something useful about solar materials.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="./me.JPG">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The picture above is me tubing on a Wright Group boating trip on lake Mendota.
+I was able to hold on for quite some time but did end up being thrown trying to do some tricks.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I didn't take any large vacations this year.
+The family did spend some time at Towanda lake in northern Wisconsin.
+It was fun to return to a common childhood vacation location.
+While there we spread the ashes of Vehrzheen
+. It was a fitting goodbye - I'll never forget how much fun Vehrzheen and I had on that lake when we were young.
+The picture below was taken by me on the day we scattered her ashes.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="./loon_cropped.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+I'm continuing to enjoy Madison.
+I have started contradancing again.
+I have gotten more serious about weight lifting and fitness as a hobby and have really enjoyed the facilities provided by the University.
+I continue to enjoy living downtown in the hustle and bustle of city life but I may be outgrowing my apartment with stuff.
+May move this fall if I can find a nice place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Have a fantastic 2016.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Blaise J Thompson <br>
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 <br>
+Madison Wisconsin 53703 <br>
+<br>
+blaise@untzag.com
+</p>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.pdf b/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0ddc4ce
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
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diff --git a/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.tex b/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.tex
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bf7ad6c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.tex
@@ -0,0 +1,66 @@
+\documentclass{letter}
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{wrapfig}
+
+\newenvironment{sig}[1]%
+ {\begin{list}{}%
+ {\setlength{\leftmargin}{300pt}}%
+ \item[]%
+ }
+ {\end{list}}
+
+\usepackage[margin=0.75in]{geometry}
+
+\begin{document}
+
+\pagenumbering{gobble}
+
+\large{\textbf{Winter Solstice Greetings - 2015}}
+
+\begingroup
+\setlength{\intextsep}{0pt}%
+\setlength{\columnsep}{0pt}%
+
+Hello to all my friends and family. I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these unusually warm winter months.
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.5\textwidth}
+ \begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.48\textwidth]{me}
+ \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+Following time honored Thompson tradition I'm already slipping behind in my holiday greeting card schedule. I'm writing this the day \textit{after} winter solstice. Madison is unusually warm for the time of year. Outside it is very foggy and a large amount of rain is expected later. Previous snowfall has long since melted.
+
+I'm now well into my 5th year of graduate school. As of early December I've become the senior experimentalist on the femtosecond materials project. Older graduate students in the group are still around but are focusing exclusively on finishing their dissertations. Projects that I have been working on are finally being published. Writing papers is frustrating but enjoyable once done. Currently we are caught up to data collected $\sim 1.5$ years ago, so there is much to do. I'm hopeful that 2016 can be a breakout year where we really can use these tools we've created to say something useful about solar materials.
+
+The picture above is me tubing on a Wright Group boating trip on lake Mendota. I was able to hold on for quite some time but did end up being thrown trying to do some tricks.
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{l}{0.5\textwidth}
+ \begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.48\textwidth]{loon_cropped}
+ \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+I didn't take any large vacations this year. The family did spend some time at Towanda lake in northern Wisconsin. It was fun to return to a common childhood vacation location. While there we spread the ashes of Vehrzheen. It was a fitting goodbye - I'll never forget how much fun Vehrzheen and I had on that lake when we were young. The picture on the left was taken by me on the day we scattered her ashes.
+
+I'm continuing to enjoy Madison. I have started contradancing again. I have gotten more serious about weight lifting and fitness as a hobby and have really enjoyed the facilities provided by the University. I continue to enjoy living downtown in the hustle and bustle of city life but I may be outgrowing my apartment with stuff. May move this fall if I can find a nice place.
+
+Have a fantastic 2016.
+
+\endgroup
+
+\vspace{10 pt}
+
+\begin{sig}{3cm}
+
+Blaise J Thompson \\*
+
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 \\*
+Madison Wisconsin 53703 \\*
+
+blaise@untzag.com
+
+\end{sig}
+
+
+\end{document}
diff --git a/public/2015-solstice-letter/loon_cropped.jpg b/public/2015-solstice-letter/loon_cropped.jpg
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2015-solstice-letter/loon_cropped.jpg
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+++ b/public/2015-solstice-letter/me.JPG
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diff --git a/public/2016-solstice-letter/IMG_20160517_101306032_HDR.jpg b/public/2016-solstice-letter/IMG_20160517_101306032_HDR.jpg
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new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2016-solstice-letter/index.html
@@ -0,0 +1,97 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>2016 winter solstice letter</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>2016 winter solstice letter</h1>
+
+<p>
+<a href="..">← back to memories list</a>
+<p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>
+Blaise sent this letter to friends and family to celebrate the winter holiday season, 2016.
+In addition to this html version, you can also download the letter as sent: <a href="./letter.pdf">PDF</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Winter Solstice Greetings - 2016</h2>
+
+<p>
+Hello to all my friends and family.
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months.
+It's snowing hard outside as I write this letter to you.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I'm now in the middle of my 6th year of graduate school.
+I'm still enjoying my time in the Wright group---I hope to be here for a while yet.
+The past year of graduate school has been frustrating in some ways.
+Lots of progress has been made, but I haven't reached the key checkpoints that I hoped to reach.
+I'm looking forward to being a teaching assistant for a graduate-level electronics and instrumentation course next semester.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This summer was busy for me.
+In mid May three college friends (Kate, Nina, and Claire) joined me here in the Midwest.
+We spent a few days exploring Chicago---river tour, museums, food, even a local contradance.
+Pictured below is us outside of Shedd Aquarium.
+We then drove to Madison and spent a few days in Wisconsin.
+Exploring the House on the Rock with Benji was a highlight of the trip for me.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="./IMG_20160517_101306032_HDR.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+I was honored to stand as a member of Claire's wedding party on June 24th.
+The wedding took place near Claire's parents in beautiful Napa Valley, California.
+It was a great wedding and I really enjoyed catching up with the Parker, Eckert and Till families.
+It was also great to briefly see the Nielsens---Jim and Tracey were kind enough to loan me a car during my time in California.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After returning home from California I had just 24 hours before flying to Amsterdam for an academic conference.
+Coherent Multidimensional Spectroscopy (CMDS) is a small biennial conference in my narrow subfield.
+My advisor---John C. Wright---was a founding member of the conference and still sits as chair of the organizing committee.
+This year the conference was held in beautiful historic Groningen, the Netherlands.
+The first molecular photon echo was resolved in Groningen (DOI: <a href="https://doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevLett.74.674">10.1103/PhysRevLett.74.674</a>).
+At the conference I presented a poster on my work to make CMDS instrumentation more reproducible and robust.
+Afterwards I spent five days exploring Europe, traveling to Brussels and Amsterdam.
+Pictured below is me in the famous Grote Markt.
+I didn't really plan anything about my trip, just stepped out of the hotel and started walking.
+Everywhere I went was filled with great food, people, and artwork. Very enjoyable---but I was ready to return to Wisconsin after five days.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="./IMG_20160703_185954.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+This year I've enjoyed learning more about philosophy, rationality, and psychology.
+Daniel Kahneman's book <it>Thinking, Fast and Slow</it> has changed the way I think about human cognition.
+I'm trying to incorporate these ideas more into my personal behavior.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Have a fantastic 2017. Stay in touch.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Blaise Jonathan Thompson <br>
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 <br>
+Madison, Wisconsin 53703 <br>
+<br>
+1-424-225-2493 <br>
+blaise@untzag.com
+</p>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.pdf b/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2e740f4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
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diff --git a/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.tex b/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.tex
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6d2986b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.tex
@@ -0,0 +1,69 @@
+% document
+\documentclass{letter}
+\usepackage[margin=0.5in]{geometry}
+\usepackage{multicol}
+
+% text
+\usepackage[utf8]{inputenc}
+\renewcommand{\familydefault}{\sfdefault}
+
+% graphics
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{wrapfig}
+
+% signature environment
+\newenvironment{sig}[1]%
+ {\begin{list}{}%
+ {\setlength{\leftmargin}{300pt}}%
+ \item[]%
+ }
+ {\end{list}}
+
+\begin{document}
+
+\pagenumbering{gobble}
+
+\large{\textbf{Winter Solstice Greetings \hfill 2016}}
+
+\begingroup
+\setlength{\intextsep}{0pt}%
+\setlength{\columnsep}{10pt}%
+
+Hello to all my friends and family. I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months. It's snowing hard outside as I write this letter to you.
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.45\textwidth}
+ \begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.4\textwidth]{"IMG_20160517_101306032_HDR"}
+ \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+I'm now in the middle of my 6th year of graduate school. I'm still enjoying my time in the Wright group---I hope to be here for a while yet. The past year of graduate school has been frustrating in some ways. Lots of progress has been made, but I haven't reached the key checkpoints that I hoped to reach. I'm looking forward to being a teaching assistant for a graduate-level electronics and instrumentation course next semester.
+
+This summer was busy for me. In mid May three college friends (Kate, Nina, and Claire) joined me here in the Midwest. We spent a few days exploring Chicago---river tour, museums, food, even a local contradance. Pictured above is us outside of Shedd Aquarium. We then drove to Madison and spent a few days in Wisconsin. Exploring the House on the Rock with Benji was a highlight of the trip for me.
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{l}{0.45\textwidth}
+ \begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.4\textwidth]{"IMG_20160703_185954"}
+ \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+I was honored to stand as a member of Claire's wedding party on June 24th. The wedding took place near Claire's parents in beautiful Napa Valley, California. It was a great wedding and I really enjoyed catching up with the Parker, Eckert and Till families. It was also great to briefly see the Nielsens---Jim and Tracey were kind enough to loan me a car during my time in California.
+
+After returning home from California I had just 24 hours before flying to Amsterdam for an academic conference. Coherent Multidimensional Spectroscopy (CMDS) is a small biennial conference in my narrow subfield. My advisor---John C. Wright---was a founding member of the conference and still sits as chair of the organizing committee. This year the conference was held in beautiful historic Groningen, the Netherlands. The first molecular photon echo was resolved in Groningen (DOI: 10.1103/PhysRevLett.74.674). At the conference I presented a poster on my work to make CMDS instrumentation more reproducible and robust. Afterwards I spent five days exploring Europe, traveling to Brussels and Amsterdam. Pictured above and left is me in the famous Grote Markt. I didn't really plan anything about my trip, just stepped out of the hotel and started walking. Everywhere I went was filled with great food, people, and artwork. Very enjoyable---but I was ready to return to Wisconsin after five days.
+
+This year I've enjoyed learning more about philosophy, rationality, and psychology. Daniel Kahneman's book \textit{Thinking, Fast and Slow} has changed the way I think about human cognition. I'm trying to incorporate these ideas more into my personal behavior.
+
+Have a fantastic 2017. Stay in touch.
+
+\vfill
+\raggedleft
+
+Blaise Jonathan Thompson \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 \\*
+Madison, Wisconsin 53703 \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+1-424-225-2493 \\*
+blaise@untzag.com
+
+\end{document}
diff --git a/public/2017-solstice-letter/DSC_0043.JPG b/public/2017-solstice-letter/DSC_0043.JPG
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new file mode 100644
index 0000000..06a8b09
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2017-solstice-letter/index.html
@@ -0,0 +1,92 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>2017 winter solstice letter</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>2017 winter solstice letter</h1>
+
+<p>
+<a href="..">← back to memories list</a>
+<p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>
+Blaise sent this letter to friends and family to celebrate the winter holiday season, 2017.
+In addition to this html version, you can also download the letter as sent: <a href="./letter.pdf">PDF</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Winter Solstice Greetings - 2017</h2>
+
+<p>
+Hello to all my friends and family.
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months.
+As I write this letter, the ice fishing season has begun in Madison.
+Brave individuals have taken to the lake near my apartment to test their luck.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I'm now in the middle of my 7th year of graduate school.
+Time flies, and I'm begrudgingly trying to wrap up this phase of my life.
+Not sure what comes next.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My good friend Tyler graduated this spring.
+I am happy to see him move on to better things, but sad that we are no longer living in the same place.
+Perhaps life will bring us together again at a later date.
+In celebration, Tyler and I took a short vacation together.
+We camped at beautiful Wyalusing State Park---Tyler's first camping experience!
+The midwestern summer rains caught us, but we had fun despite the weather.
+We also visited House on the Rock and New Glarus Brewery.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On August 21st of this year a total solar eclipse crossed much of the Continental US.
+My parents and I took this as an opportunity for family vacation.
+We visited the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area, at the intersection of Kentucky and Tennessee.
+After a bit of stress, we ended up finding a nice waterside campsite (below).
+The very large lakes were too large for our small Alumacraft, so we did not get much fishing done.
+I did get lots of reading done, and the time spent away was nice.
+The eclipse itself was pretty magical.
+The family (including Karaby) put on our swimsuits and waded into the lake to watch.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="./IMG_20170820_120702.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+In early October I traveled to beautiful Arcata to visit my good friend Claire and her husband, Ralph.
+Claire and Ralph have a wonderful home on a gravel road nestled among impossibly tall redwood trees.
+I enjoyed exploring Arcata and the nearby town of Eureka.
+Humboldt State, where Claire works, has interesting California architecture---one of Claire's colleagues has an office with only outdoor entrance!
+The local Ma-Le'l dunes (below) were interesting---very windy with alien landscape and flora.
+Making pasties and horchata, and enjoying Claire's famous pie, were the highlights of the trip for me.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="./DSC_0043.JPG">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Stay in touch---note new address.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Blaise Jonathan Thompson <br>
+725 W Washington Ave. Apt 306 <br>
+Madison, Wisconsin 53715 <br>
+<br>
+1-424-225-2493 <br>
+blaise@untzag.com <br>
+http://blaise.social
+</p>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.pdf b/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e0c63a8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
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diff --git a/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.tex b/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.tex
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e33c17e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.tex
@@ -0,0 +1,96 @@
+% document
+\documentclass{letter}
+\usepackage[margin=0.5in]{geometry}
+\usepackage{multicol}
+
+% text
+\usepackage[utf8]{inputenc}
+\renewcommand{\familydefault}{\sfdefault}
+
+% graphics
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{wrapfig}
+
+% signature environment
+\newenvironment{sig}[1]%
+ {\begin{list}{}%
+ {\setlength{\leftmargin}{300pt}}%
+ \item[]%
+ }
+ {\end{list}}
+
+\begin{document}
+
+\pagenumbering{gobble}
+
+\large{\textbf{Winter Solstice Greetings \hfill 2017}}
+
+\begingroup
+\setlength{\intextsep}{0pt}%
+\setlength{\columnsep}{10pt}%
+
+Hello to all my friends and family. %
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months. %
+As I write this letter, the ice fishing season has begun in Madison. %
+Brave individuals have taken to the lake near my apartment to test their luck. %
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.45\textwidth}
+ \begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.4\textwidth]{"IMG_20170820_120702"}
+ \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+I'm now in the middle of my 7th year of graduate school. %
+Time flies, and I'm begrudgingly trying to wrap up this phase of my life. %
+Not sure what comes next.
+
+My good friend Tyler graduated this spring. %
+I am happy to see him move on to better things, but sad that we are no longer living in the same
+place. %
+Perhaps life will bring us together again at a later date. %
+In celebration, Tyler and I took a short vacation together. %
+We camped at beautiful Wyalusing State Park---Tyler's first camping experience! %
+The midwestern summer rains caught us, but we had fun despite the weather. %
+We also visited House on the Rock and New Glarus Brewery. %
+
+On August 21st of this year a total solar eclipse crossed much of the Continental US. %
+My parents and I took this as an opportunity for family vacation. %
+We visited the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area, at the intersection of Kentucky and
+Tennessee. %
+After a bit of stress, we ended up finding a nice waterside campsite (right). %
+The very large lakes were too large for our small Alumacraft, so we did not get much fishing
+done. %
+I did get lots of reading done, and the time spent away was nice. %
+The eclipse itself was pretty magical. %
+The family (including Karaby) put on our swimsuits and waded into the lake to watch. %
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{l}{0.45\textwidth}
+ \begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.4\textwidth]{"DSC_0043"}
+ \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+In early October I traveled to beautiful Arcata to visit my good friend Claire
+and her husband, Ralph. %
+Claire and Ralph have a wonderful home on a gravel road nestled among impossibly tall redwood
+trees. %
+I enjoyed exploring Arcata and the nearby town of Eureka. %
+Humboldt State, where Claire works, has interesting California architecture---one of Claire's
+colleagues has an office with only outdoor entrance! %
+The local Ma-Le'l dunes (left) were interesting---very windy with alien landscape and flora. %
+Making pasties and horchata, and enjoying Claire's famous pie, were the highlights of the trip for
+me. %
+
+\vfill
+\raggedleft
+
+Stay in touch---note new address. \hfill Blaise Jonathan Thompson \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+725 W Washington Ave. Apt 306 \\*
+Madison, Wisconsin 53715 \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+1-424-225-2493 \\*
+blaise@untzag.com \\*
+http://blaise.social
+
+\end{document}
diff --git a/public/2018-solstice-letter/DSC_0131.JPG b/public/2018-solstice-letter/DSC_0131.JPG
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new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e24855c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2018-solstice-letter/index.html
@@ -0,0 +1,105 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>2018 winter solstice letter</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>2018 winter solstice letter</h1>
+
+<p>
+<a href="..">← back to memories list</a>
+<p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>
+Blaise sent this letter to friends and family to celebrate the winter holiday season, 2018.
+In addition to this html version, you can also download the letter as sent: <a href="./letter.pdf">PDF</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Winter Solstice Greetings - 2018</h2>
+
+<p>
+Hello to all my friends and family.
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months.
+It's fairly warm here in Madison, but the bay near my apartment has already frozen over.
+The last two weekends have been popular with ice fishers and skaters.
+As finals week progresses the town slowly empties.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This has been an important year for me professionally.
+On April 23rd I successfully defended my dissertation, earning my doctorate in analytical chemistry.
+See below a picture of me and my PhD adviser John Wright.
+I am very lucky to have worked under John for seven short years.
+John taught me a lot about being an independent thinker and communicator.
+I was blessed to have my parents and good friend Tyler attend my graduation.
+I "walked" with two other Wright Group friends---Kyle Czech and Jonathan Handali.
+The ceremony that I attended (just for masters and doctorates) was huge---I'm still amazed at UW-Madison's size.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="./IMG_20180511_193937.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Of course, the high of graduation is typically followed by the panic of trying to find a job.
+On July 23rd I began working as an instrumentation technologist for the chemistry department.
+This is a research support role where I work on solving technical challenges facing researchers throughout the department.
+I am the supervisor of a "makerspace" where students and researchers can come work on instrument construction and repair.
+We have specialized equipment and a large inventory of parts for purchase.
+I take on a large variety of different jobs---everything from fixing humble hotplates and glassware drying ovens to designing custom oscillators for mass spectrometry.
+The people that I work with on a daily basis are driven and kind---they have done a lot to help me overcome my lack of formal training in electrical engineering.
+For me right now, this is a dream job.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I've had several opportunities to travel this year.
+A few weeks after graduation my friend Tyler was gracious enough to invite me to his home in New York for a 1.5 week vacation.
+Highlights included eating at Di Fara Pizza, exploring Coney Island, and seeing The SpongeBob Musical on Broadway.
+It was so fun to visit Tyler and see how far he has come since his own graduation.
+I was also glad to visit my friend Felix at Yale during the same trip.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In July I spent nine days in Iowa City with my parents.
+After so long, I enjoyed spending such a long time at "home".
+The barn construction project is going along beautifully, and I was able to help with some humble drywall work.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Over the thanksgiving break I traveled to the west coast.
+I flew into Las Vegas, where my parents picked me up for a quick 24-hour Death Valley experience.
+We woke up early to watch the sunrise from Dante's View.
+I hope to return to Death Valley for a longer trip some day.
+Here I am standing on the floor of Badwater Basin---282 feet below sea level.
+After leaving, we picked up Karaby and drove straight to Roseville, where we had thanksgiving dinner with the Trumbly & Decker Family.
+It's so nice to connect with extended family after many years.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="./DSC_0131.JPG">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Wishing you and yours a happy new year. Stay in touch!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Blaise Jonathan Thompson <br>
+725 W Washington Ave. Apt 306 <br>
+Madison, Wisconsin 53715 <br>
+<br>
+1-424-225-2493 <br>
+blaise@untzag.com <br>
+http://blaise.zone
+</p>
+
+
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.pdf b/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6ba3c9e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
Binary files differ
diff --git a/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.tex b/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.tex
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6a71ad8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.tex
@@ -0,0 +1,100 @@
+% document
+\documentclass{letter}
+\usepackage[margin=0.5in]{geometry}
+\usepackage{multicol}
+
+% text
+\usepackage[utf8]{inputenc}
+\renewcommand{\familydefault}{\sfdefault}
+
+% graphics
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{wrapfig}
+
+% signature environment
+\newenvironment{sig}[1]%
+ {\begin{list}{}%
+ {\setlength{\leftmargin}{300pt}}%
+ \item[]%
+ }
+ {\end{list}}
+
+\begin{document}
+
+\pagenumbering{gobble}
+
+\large{\textbf{Winter Solstice Greetings \hfill 2018}}
+
+\begingroup
+\setlength{\intextsep}{0pt}%
+\setlength{\columnsep}{10pt}%
+
+Hello to all my friends and family. %
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months. %
+It's fairly warm here in Madison, but the bay near my apartment has already frozen over. %
+The last two weekends have been popular with ice fishers and skaters. %
+As finals week progresses the town slowly empties. %
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{l}{0.4\textwidth}
+ \begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.4\textwidth]{"IMG_20180511_193937"}
+ \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+This has been an important year for me professionally. %
+On April 23rd I successfully defended my dissertation, earning my doctorate in analytical chemistry. %
+See left a picture of me and my PhD adviser John Wright. %
+I am very lucky to have worked under John for seven short years. %
+John taught me a lot about being an independent thinker and communicator.
+I was blessed to have my parents and good friend Tyler attend my graduation.
+I ``walked'' with two other Wright Group friends---Kyle Czech and Jonathan Handali. %
+The ceremony that I attended (just for masters and doctorates) was huge---I'm still amazed at UW-Madison's size.
+
+Of course, the high of graduation is typically followed by the panic of trying to find a job.
+On July 23rd I began working as an instrumentation technologist for the chemistry department.
+This is a research support role where I work on solving technical challenges facing researchers throughout the department.
+I am the supervisor of a ``makerspace'' where students and researchers can come work on instrument construction and repair.
+We have specialized equipment and a large inventory of parts for purchase.
+I take on a large variety of different jobs---everything from fixing humble hotplates and glassware drying ovens to designing custom oscillators for mass spectrometry.
+The people that I work with on a daily basis are driven and kind---they have done a lot to help me overcome my lack of formal training in electrical engineering.
+For me right now, this is a dream job.
+
+I've had several opportunities to travel this year.
+A few weeks after graduation my friend Tyler was gracious enough to invite me to his home in New York for a 1.5 week vacation.
+Highlights included eating at Di Fara Pizza, exploring Coney Island, and seeing The SpongeBob Musical on Broadway.
+It was so fun to visit Tyler and see how far he has come since his own graduation.
+I was also glad to visit my friend Felix at Yale during the same trip.
+
+In July I spent nine days in Iowa City with my parents.
+After so long, I enjoyed spending such a long time at ``home''.
+The barn construction project is going along beautifully, and I was able to help with some humble drywall work.
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.3\textwidth}
+ \begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.3\textwidth]{"DSC_0131"}
+ \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+Over the thanksgiving break I traveled to the west coast.
+I flew into Las Vegas, where my parents picked me up for a quick 24-hour Death Valley experience.
+We woke up early to watch the sunrise from Dante's View.
+I hope to return to Death Valley for a longer trip some day.
+Here I am standing on the floor of Badwater Basin---282 feet below sea level.
+After leaving, we picked up Karaby and drove straight to Roseville, where we had thanksgiving dinner with the Trumbly \& Decker Family.
+It's so nice to connect with extended family after many years.
+
+Wishing you and yours a happy new year. Stay in touch!
+
+\vfill
+\raggedleft
+
+Blaise Jonathan Thompson \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+725 W Washington Ave. Apt 306 \\*
+Madison, Wisconsin 53715 \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+1-424-225-2493 \\*
+blaise@untzag.com \\*
+http://blaise.zone
+
+\end{document}
diff --git a/public/2019-solstice-letter/recipients.org b/public/2019-solstice-letter/recipients.org
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..78382df
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2019-solstice-letter/recipients.org
@@ -0,0 +1,28 @@
+#+TITLE: winter solstice letter recipients
+
+* DONE Alisha Nielsen
+* DONE Carol & John Wright
+* DONE Claire & Ralph Till
+* DONE Darien Morrow and Katelyn Fisher (spelling?)
+* DONE Elizabeth Breuer
+* DONE Felix Radford
+* DONE Justin Earley
+* DONE Kate Webber
+* DONE Kyle Czech
+* DONE Kyle Sunden
+* DONE Marcia and Dan Boyer
+* DONE Marilyn Roberts
+* DONE Mark and Roger
+* DONE Myrna Casebolt
+* DONE Nancy & David Thompson
+* DONE Nathaniel Nielsen
+* DONE Nina Halperin
+* DONE Parker/Eckert Family
+* DONE Sam Price
+* DONE Sarah Charley
+* DONE Susie & Mike Truninger
+* DONE The Kohler Family
+* DONE The Manly Family
+* DONE Tracey and James Nielsen
+* DONE Tyler Roberts
+* DONE Zach Ott
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/blaise-castle.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/blaise-castle.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8ffe8c2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/blaise-castle.jpg
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/breakfast.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/breakfast.jpg
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/breakfast.jpg
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/camel.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/camel.jpg
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/camel.jpg
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/index.html
index a38ab97..347fb73 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/index.html
@@ -4,13 +4,13 @@
<head>
<meta charset="utf-8">
<title>Cappadocia</title>
- <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
</head>
<body>
<h1>Cappadocia</h1>
-Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
<hr>
<h2 id=2019-09-24><a href=#2019-09-24>2019-09-24 Tuesday</a></h2>
@@ -29,12 +29,11 @@ Along the way, the travelers saw an excelent view of Mount Ericyes from the Kays
When the view is clear, it is obvious that the mountain is a volcano that has erupted before.
</p>
-<img src="cappadocia/volcano.jpg"
+<img src="volcano.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
A view of of Mount Ericyes from the Kayseri side.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-
+<br>
<h3>Lunch at Sivas</h3>
@@ -45,57 +44,80 @@ Sivas is a large city with a complex network of busy roads.
There are no parking meters, but individual workers make it their business to take a fee from each car that parks for more than one hour.
</p>
-<img src="cappadocia/blaise-sivas.jpg"
+<img src="blaise-sivas.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Blaise poses in front of a hotel in central Sivas.
Sivas was the birthplace of St. Blaise, Blaise's namesake.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<h3>Cappadocia overview</h3>
+
+<p>
+Pronounced "cap a dough sha".
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Cappadocia, a semi-arid region in central Turkey, is known for its distinctive “fairy chimneys,” tall, cone-shaped rock formations clustered in Monks Valley, Göreme and elsewhere.
+Other notables sites include Bronze Age homes carved into valley walls by troglodytes (cave dwellers) and later used as refuges by early Christians.
+The 100m-deep Ihlara Canyon houses numerous rock-face churches.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Although the travelers have no relatives in this area, they decided to visit Cappadocia anyway to take in the amazing geology.
+It was well worth the visit.
+</p>
-<h3>night in Gorome</h3>
+<h3>night in Goreme</h3>
<p>
The travelers arrived in Cappadocia late afternoon, just before sunset.
-They stayed in the town of Gorome, at the center of the Cappadocia region.
-Gorome is a rock city with many buildings built into the walls and pillars
+They stayed in the town of Goreme, at the center of the Cappadocia region.
+Goreme is a rock city with many buildings built into the rock walls and pillars
</p>
-<img src="cappadocia/gorome-hotel.jpg"
+<img src="gorome-hotel.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-An example hotel in Gorome.
-Many hotels are built right into the rock walls and pillars that surround the town.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+An example hotel in Goreme.
+<br>
<p>
Initially there was some confusion about which hotel was correct, as there are many hotels whose names contain some combination of "cave" and "suite".
-The travelers stayed in the Ottoman Cave Suite hotels, which was right at the center of Gorome and afforded wonderful views of the surrounding town during sunset.
+The travelers stayed in the <a href=http://www.ottomancavesuites.com>Ottoman Cave Suite</a> hotels, which was right at the center of Goreme and afforded wonderful views of the surrounding town during sunset.
They had a honeymoon suite on the top floor, with a personal hot tub and a wonderful view of the surrounding city.
The travelers watched the sun set from the roof of their hotel.
</p>
-<img src="cappadocia/hotel-windows.jpg"
+<img src="hotel-windows.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
View from inside the hotel room.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<br>
-<img src="cappadocia/gorome-sunset.jpg"
+<img src="gorome-sunset.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Sun setting over gorome, as viewed from the hotel roof.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<br>
-<img src="cappadocia/sunset-selfie.jpg"
+<img src="sunset-selfie.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Jim, Nancy, and Blaise enjoying the sunset.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="night-castle.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+The nearby castle at night, as viewed from the hotel.
+<br>
<p>
-After unpacking and watching the sunset, the travelers enjoyed a nice chinese dinner at ????? restraunt.
+After unpacking and watching the sunset, the travelers enjoyed a nice Chinese dinner at a local restaurant.
</p>
<hr>
@@ -107,24 +129,30 @@ After unpacking and watching the sunset, the travelers enjoyed a nice chinese di
The sunrise was also fantastic as viewed from the hotel roof.
</p>
-<img src="cappadocia/sunrise.jpg"
+<img src="sunrise.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Sun rising over Gorome, as viewed from the hotel roof.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+Sun rising over Goreme, as viewed from the hotel roof.
+<br>
<br>
-<img src="cappadocia/sunrise-blaise.jpg"
+<img src="sunrise-blaise.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Blaise poses on the hotel roof during the sunrise.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<p>
-During breakfast, the travelers finally tried the talum from Kemah.
-One of the hotel empoyees shared her own talum, which is made with "black seed" (cumin)
+During breakfast, the travelers finally tried the tulum from Kemah.
+One of the hotel empoyees shared her own tulum, which is made with "black seed" (cumin)
</p>
+<figure>
+ <img src="breakfast.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Breakfast at Ottoman Cave Suite.
+ Note the tulum on the table with Nancy and Blaise.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
<h2>hike</h2>
<p>
@@ -132,80 +160,80 @@ The travelers took a taxi to the top of the ridge (sun set point) and meandered
Ultimately, they arrived at Çavuşin.
</p>
-<img src="cappadocia/eye-tree.jpg"
+<img src="eye-tree.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
A tree near sunset point that has been decorated with "evil eyes".
This symbol was common throughout the region.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<br>
-<img src="cappadocia/red-valley-blaise.jpg"
+<img src="red-valley-blaise.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Blaise poses at the entrance to the red valley.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<br>
-<img src="cappadocia/nancy-doorway.jpg"
+<img src="nancy-doorway.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Nancy poses near the door of one of the carved dwellings.
+Nancy poses near the door of one of the carved churches.
Note how thick the walls were made.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<br>
-<img src="cappadocia/red-valley-painting.jpg"
+<img src="red-valley-painting.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-View inside of one of the carved dwellings, showing painted roof detail.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+View inside Kizilcukur Church, showing painted roof detail.
+<br>
<br>
-<img src="cappadocia/red-valley-nancy.jpg"
+<img src="red-valley-nancy.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Nancy sits at the entrance to one of the red valley dwellings.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<p>
At some point, the travelers hopped from the Red Valley to Rose Valley.
Rose valley contained many amazing carved rock structures.
</p>
-<img src="cappadocia/rose-valley.jpg"
+<img src="rose-valley.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Rose valley rock formations.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<br>
-<img src="cappadocia/rose-valley-nancy-jim.jpg"
+<img src="rose-valley-nancy-jim.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Nancy and jim pose at the entrance to Rose Valley.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<br>
-<img src="cappadocia/nancy-bridge.jpg"
+<img src="nancy-bridge.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Nancy stands on the bridge into column church.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<br>
-<img src="cappadocia/column.jpg"
+<img src="column.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Column church, interior.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<br>
-<img src="cappadocia/blaise-carvings.jpg"
+<img src="blaise-carvings.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Blaise poses in front of some carved structures in Rose Valley.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<p>
Foolishly, the travelers forgot water and food.
@@ -213,35 +241,44 @@ They were happy to discover an oasis cafe "StarBox" which offered refreshing fru
This cafe was located right under cross church, and the view into Rose Valley was amazing.
</p>
-<img src="cappadocia/cross-church-painting.jpg"
+<img src="cross-church-painting.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Painting within cross church, next to StarBox.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
<p>
-Taxi back to Hotel.
+The travelers ultimately exited the valleys in a nearby town, and were able to catch a taxi back to their hotel.
</p>
<h2>Castle</h2>
-Drove to Castle.
+<p>
+As a last activity, the travelers visited the local castle.
+They ate lunch near the top.
+The view was amazing, even though it was raining that day.
+Nancy and Blaise paid 9 TL each to go to the top of the castle.
+It was a fairly tourist-centered area, but not many visitors were there.
+Their were camel rides available.
+</p>
-Lunch near top.
-<img src="cappadocia/lunch.jpg"
+<img src="lunch.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Lunch.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-
-
-Saw camels.
-
-View. 9 TL to enter.
+<br>
+<br>
-Raining that day.
+<figure>
+ <img src="blaise-castle.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Blaise poses on top of the castle.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+<figure>
+ <img src="camel.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Jim shows us a local camel.</figcaption>
+</figure>
</body>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/night-castle.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/night-castle.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b51df17
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/night-castle.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/family-photo.png b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/family-photo.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6da3ea2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/family-photo.png
Binary files differ
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html
index 183576f..208859e 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html
@@ -4,13 +4,42 @@
<head>
<meta charset="utf-8">
<title>Erzincan & Kemah</title>
- <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
</head>
<body>
<h1>Erzincan & Kemah</h1>
-Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+
+<h3>note: historical vs modern Erzincan</h3>
+
+<p>
+Erzindjan is now north of the location as of 1907.
+When Azniv was born, Erzindjan and the surrounding area was part of Armenia.
+It was made part of Turkey in 1920 after the conclusion of WW1.
+Besides the genocide, Erzindjan is earthquake prone.
+In 1254 William Rubruck said more than 10,000 people were killed by an earthquake.
+In 1939 there was another earthquake which led to the death of 32,962.
+The old site was entirely abandoned and the town was relocated to the north.
+</p>
+
+<h3>note: family connection with Erzindjan</h3>
+
+<p>
+The following photo was taken​ in 1906,​ four years after Stepan and his family arrived in the US.
+Standing from left to right in the back row are: Azniv/Agnes Torosian (born Shakargian, who is Nancy and Jim’s maternal grandmother)​, her brother Arshag and his wife, Nartouhi Pojojian (alternates Nartoo, Pazozian, Posozian).
+The adults sitting from left to right in the front row are Nancy and Jim’s great-grandmother, Lucien Shakargian (born Donegian), and great-grandfather, Stepan Shakargian.
+The family believes two of the children are Arshag's children but the third child may be one of the sister's, Eva Kapigian (born Shakargian) children.
+The travelers think Azniv was born in Erzindjan proper rather than adjacent villages because: 1) they used the Turkish bath house which was a Roman ruin, 2) they had a shop where folks bought things- perhaps sugar, candy, coffee, 3) Azniv went to a school and the city had a school for girls (Chrisdinian).
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="family-photo.png">
+ <figcaption>Shakargian family photo.</figcaption>
+</figure>
<hr>
<h2 id=2019-09-22><a href=#2019-09-22>2019-09-22 Sunday</a></h2>
@@ -24,7 +53,7 @@ The true population is twice that, with many of the undocumented being Roma.
The airport is quite modern and nice, funded extensively by Russians.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/erzincan-airport.jpg"
+<img src="erzincan-airport.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Erzincan airport. <br>
@@ -35,13 +64,14 @@ Unlike other cities visited by the travelers, the roads are clearly planned and
</p>
<p>
+The travelers stayed at Hayat Home Suite in the center of town.
The hotel was quite nice, more like an apartment than a typical hotel room.
There were two small bedrooms, a bathroom including washing machine, kitchen complete with stove, and a very large living and dining room.
Jim and Nancy took the bedrooms, while Blaise slept on the living room couch.
Total cost of hotel was 480 TL for two nights.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/erzincan-hotel.jpg"
+<img src="erzincan-hotel.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Living and dining room of Erzincan hotel. <br>
@@ -49,7 +79,7 @@ Living and dining room of Erzincan hotel. <br>
<h3>dinner</h3>
<p>
-The travelers met their guide (Ahmed) and his driver.
+The travelers met their guide (Ahmet Cetin) and his driver.
The driver spoke only Turkish and was not very communicative for the entire trip.
All five enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant.
Credit cards were a problem, but the travelers were able to withdraw cash from nearby ATMs.
@@ -68,7 +98,7 @@ Tevhit did not speak English, but a friend of his translated on the plane.
<p>
Tevhit invited the travelers to stop by his hotel to obtain a book of historic Erzincan photos which he himself had compiled.
-Once Ahmed heard of the Nancy's interactions with Tevhit, Ahmed called Tevhit and all were invited to meet Tevhit at his hotel.
+Once Ahmed heard of the Nancy's interactions with Tevhit, Ahmet called Tevhit and all were invited to meet Tevhit at his hotel.
</p>
<p>
@@ -78,7 +108,7 @@ The travelers needed to be instructed to eat the grape seeds, and indeed the see
The grapes were very sweet and the seeds were not at all bitter.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/with-karakaya.jpg"
+<img src="with-karakaya.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
The travelers meet with Tevhit Karakaya (far right).
@@ -91,12 +121,12 @@ Note grapes held by Nancy. <br>
<h3>breakfast</h3>
<p>
-At around 09:00, the travelers met with Ahmed and started their day with breakfast at a local restaurant, Siber Bilişim Sistemleri.
+At around 09:00, the travelers met with Ahmet and started their day with breakfast at a local restaurant, Siber Bilişim Sistemleri.
It was a typical middle eastern breakfast with a large variety of options.
The travelers enjoyed trying rose petal jam, similar to that made by Azniv Torosian and remembered as part of Nancy and Jim's childhood.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/monday-breakfast.jpg"
+<img src="monday-breakfast.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Jim and Nancy enjoy breakfast. <br>
@@ -111,8 +141,6 @@ Azniv was roughly 16 years old at the time.
The travelers attempted to visit the place where Azniv and her family had lived.
</p>
-[TODO: photo of family that left]
-
<p>
Nancy's notes contained a picture of old Erzincan (1907) behind which a particular view of the mountain range could be seen.
This was Mount Kazen Kaya.
@@ -121,9 +149,12 @@ Since the earthquake and rebuilding, there are almost no remaining structures or
Still, the travelers were able to find the mountain view as seen in the old pictures, and also where the Euphrates currently flows.
</p>
-[TODO: include old photograph for comparison] <br>
+<figure>
+ <img src="labeled.png">
+ <figcaption>Old Erzincan.</figcaption>
+</figure>
-<img src="erzincan/old-mountains.jpg"
+<img src="old-mountains.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Nancy and Jim pose in front of the mountain range from Nancy's notes.
@@ -131,19 +162,19 @@ Immediately behind the photographer is the Euphrates river.
[39.691N, 39.504E]<br>
<br>
-<img src="erzincan/erzincan-mountain-detail.jpg"
+<img src="erzincan-mountain-detail.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Detail of mount Kazen Kaya. <br>
+Detail of foothills adjacent to Mount Kazen Kaya. <br>
<h3>cemetery</h3>
<p>
-Visited Muslim cemetery.
-Saw tomb of Turkish soldier that died as a suicide bomber.
+Travelers attempted to see the ruins of an Armenian cemetery, but were taken to a muslim cemetery instead.
+Saw tomb of a female Turkish soldier that died as a suicide bomber.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/tomb.jpg"
+<img src="tomb.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Tomb of a Turkish soldier.
@@ -161,11 +192,11 @@ The Turkish government has military in this region due to fears of Kurdish and S
<p>
Along the drive, the travelers stopped at Kemah gorge, which is now used as a point of recreation (base jumping, climbing etc.)
There is a turkish monument at this place which memorializes a truckload of soldiers that died here in a car accident on the bridge.
-One Armenian story about this place is that 30 (?) unmarried young women committed mass suicide here to avoid having to convert from Christianity to Islam.
+This was undoubtedly one of the many places between Erzincan and Kemah where 25,000 Armenians were thrown into the Euphrates river (1915).
This gorge is 13 km from the town of Kemah.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/kemah-gorge.jpg"
+<img src="kemah-gorge.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Kemah gorge.
@@ -185,41 +216,43 @@ Arriving in Kemah, the travelers found the location of another photograph from N
They were able to find the exact point where the photograph was taken.
</p>
-[TODO: old photo for comparison]
+<img src="kemah-fort-drawing.png"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
-<img src="erzincan/kemah-ruins.jpg"
+<img src="kemah-ruins.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Nancy and Jim pose in front of Kemah fort.
+Nancy and Jim pose in front of Kemah Fort.
[39.603N, 39.0372E] <br>
<p>
-The fort was built into a mountain which gives a good view of modern Kemah.
+The Fort was built into a mountain which gives a good view of modern Kemah.
There were also caves that had been fortified, and an ongoing archaeological excavation.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/kemah.jpg"
+<img src="kemah.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Town of Kemah as seen from Kemah fort. [39.604N, 39.035E] <br>
+Town of Kemah as seen from Kemah Fort. [39.604N, 39.035E] <br>
<p>
Beside Kemah, on the other side of the Euphrates river, is a large ridge which is currently occupied by a Turkish millitary outpost.
The travelers believe that this is the famous ridge from which 25,000 Armenians were thrown to their death between June 10 through 14, 1915.
Oral history describes the Euphrates filled with bodies and red with blood.
Before that time, many Armenians lived peacefully in this area.
-In 2019 the city of Kemah contains just 2000 people, all Arab.
+In 2019 the city of Kemah contains just 2000 people, all Turkish.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/kemah-ridge.jpg"
+<img src="kemah-ridge.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Kemah ridge as seen from Kemah fort. [39.604N, 39.036E]<br>
+Kemah ridge as seen from Kemah Fort. [39.604N, 39.036E]<br>
<p>
After visiting Kemah Fort, the travelers spent some time in the Kemah city center.
-Once Ahmed suggested tea, it was remarkable how quickly the young friend was able to procure it.
-Kemah seems like a nice city, with local cats dogs and chickens.
+Once Ahmet suggested tea, it was remarkable how quickly the young friend was able to procure it.
+Kemah seems like a nice city, with local cats, dogs, and chickens.
The town is clean and bustling with activity.
</p>
@@ -227,12 +260,12 @@ The town is clean and bustling with activity.
<p>
The travelers had lunch at a rustic outdoor restaurant called Kemah Alabalık Tesisleri.
-Specialty was trout, and delicious shepard's salad.
+Specialty was trout, and delicious Shepherd's Salad.
The lunch featured special salt mined near Kemah.
There was a pomegranate sauce that was excellent on the salad: nar ekşisi kalori.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/kemah-lunch.jpg"
+<img src="kemah-lunch.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Travelers enjoying lunch. [39.614N, 39.038E]<br>
@@ -241,66 +274,66 @@ Travelers enjoying lunch. [39.614N, 39.038E]<br>
<p>
The travelers were interested in trying to find the exact village where Lucien Donegian grew up.
-In pursuit of this, Ahmed took them to the local village of Kemeryaka.
+In pursuit of this, Ahmet took them to the local village of Kemeryaka.
There they found many village men doing construction working together to build a new brick house in the center of town.
-All shared tea and great conversation as translated by Ahmed.
+All shared tea and great conversation as translated by Ahmet.
In conversation, they recommended that the travelers visit Morik.
-The crucial piece of information in recommending Morik was stories of Kurds storing their freshly caught meat in a special place near the village where Lucien lived.
+The crucial piece of information in recommending Morik was Nancy's remembering that Azniv had said the place where her mother grew up had a storage area where many (including Kurds) stored their freshly caught meat.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/kemeryaka-group.jpg"
+<img src="kemeryaka-group.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Travelers meet with men of Kemeryaka. [39.550N, 39.068E]<br>
-<h3>stone khatchkar</h3>
+<h3>stone khachkar</h3>
<p>
-It seems that local Arab people believe that Armenians were some kind of treasure keepers, rich magical people of old.
+It seems that local Turkish people believe that Armenians were some kind of treasure keepers, rich magical people of old.
The people of Kemeryaka seem excited to show the travelers some local "mythical" signs of historic Armenian presence.
One of the village elders jokes that when the travelers find the Armenian treasure they can split it "50/50".
There are interesting parallels between stereotypes about Armenians and those about Jews.
</p>
<p>
-Joined by several teenage boys from Kemeryaka, the travelers drove to a place where khatchkar (crosses) have been carved into the stone by previous Armenian dwellers.
+Joined by several teenage boys from Kemeryaka, the travelers drove to a place where khachkars (crosses) had been carved into the stone by previous Armenian dwellers.
The valley that they visited was truly beautiful, and it was powerful to see sure signs of Armenian presence.
-One of the two khatchkarkars had recently been destroyed by other treasure seekers.
-The travelers theorize that these khatchkars were used as road markers for an old mountain pass.
+One of the two khachkars had recently been destroyed by other treasure seekers.
+The travelers theorize that these khachkars were used as road markers for an old mountain pass.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/khatch1.jpg"
+<img src="khatch1.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Khatchkar carved into stone. [39.546N,39.0648E]<br>
+Khachkar carved into stone. [39.546N,39.0648E]<br>
<br>
-<img src="erzincan/khatch2.jpg"
+<img src="khatch2.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Travelers discuss khatchkares.
-Note two other khatchkars on the right hand side of the photo.
+Travelers discuss khachkares.
+Note two other khachkars on the right hand side of the photo.
[39.544N, 39.063E] <br>
<br>
-<img src="erzincan/khatch3.jpg"
+<img src="khatch3.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Second khatchkar, destroyed.
+Second khachkar, destroyed.
[39.544N, 39.065E]<br>
<br>
-<img src="erzincan/khatch4.jpg"
+<img src="khatch4.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Second khatchkar, detail.Note crosses above, writing below, and star or flower.
+Second khachkar, detail.Note crosses above, writing below, and star or flower.
[39.544N, 39.065E]<br>
<br>
-<img src="erzincan/khatch5.jpg"
+<img src="khatch5.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Mountains where khatchkars were carved.
+Mountains where khachkars were carved.
[39.548N, 39.0648E]<br>
<h3>Morik</h3>
@@ -314,29 +347,29 @@ Morik's old name was Ayranpınar.
<p>
On the way to Morik, the travelers dropped off the teenage boys from Kemeryaka and picked up an adult man Mehmet who seemed to be a local leader.
-Mehmet sat on Ahmed's lap in the front seat for the trip between villages.
+Mehmet sat on Ahmet's lap in the front seat for the trip between villages.
As the travelers arrived, the way into the village was blocked by cows.
The village director's son was moving them through the main street.
They drove to the village director's (Umit) home.
All enjoyed an active conversation sharing the reason for visiting and the history of Lucien Donegian.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/morik-cows.jpg"
+<img src="morik-cows.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Cows on the way into Morik.
[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
<br>
-<img src="erzincan/morik-conversation.jpg"
+<img src="morik-conversation.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Conversation on the deck of Umit, Morik's appointed director, home.
-Left to right pictured Ahmed, Umit, Mehmet.
+Left to right pictured Ahmet, Umit, Mehmet.
[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
<br>
-<img src="erzincan/morik-son.jpg"
+<img src="morik-son.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Son of Umit (right), and his son grandson of Umit (left) during the conversation.
@@ -352,21 +385,21 @@ There are currently 40 tons of cheese inside.
Mehmet himself was storing cheese in the cave, despite the fact that he is from a different village.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/jim-tractor.jpg"
+<img src="jim-tractor.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Jim and Mehmet riding a tractor up the mountain to visit the ice cave.
[39.631N, 38.997E]<br>
<br>
-<img src="erzincan/morik-hole.jpg"
+<img src="morik-hole.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-Nancy, Ahmed, and Umit visit the ice cave.
+Nancy, Ahmet, and Umit visit the ice cave.
[39.631N, 38.996E]<br>
<br>
-<img src="erzincan/morik-key.jpg"
+<img src="morik-key.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Umit showing off the key to the ice cave.
@@ -376,14 +409,14 @@ Umit showing off the key to the ice cave.
Since the ice cave was higher up on the mountain, there was an excellent view of Morik and surroundings.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/morik-view.jpg"
+<img src="morik-view.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
View of Morik from near the ice cave.
[39.632N, 38.997E]<br>
<br>
-<img src="erzincan/nancy-morik.jpg"
+<img src="nancy-morik.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
Nancy with Morik in the background.
@@ -394,7 +427,7 @@ Nancy with Morik in the background.
<p>
The travelers went first to Kemeryaka to drop off Mehmet.
From Mehmet they bought a large amount of local goat cheese (tulum), totaling 630 TL.
-Most of this was given to Ahmed and the driver, as there was way too much to take home.
+Most of this was given to Ahmet and the driver, as there was way too much to take home.
</p>
<p>
@@ -407,14 +440,15 @@ After all this the travelers returned to their hotel in Erzincan and slept well.
<h3>Euphrates</h3>
<p>
-Tuesday morning Nancy washed her feet in the Euphrates river.
+Tuesday morning Nancy placed her feet in the Euphrates river.
+The place she chose was not far from the 1907 location of Erzincan.
After this, and breakfast, the travelers set on their way to Cappadocia.
</p>
-<img src="erzincan/euphrates.jpg"
+<img src="euphrates.jpg"
alt=""
width="100%">
-View of the Euphrates as it was when Nancy washed her feet.
+View of the Euphrates as it was when Nancy placed her feet.
[39.701N, 39.519E]<br>
</body>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/kemah-fort-drawing.png b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/kemah-fort-drawing.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1a8945b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/kemah-fort-drawing.png
Binary files differ
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/labeled.png b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/labeled.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2b8471c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/labeled.png
Binary files differ
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/morik-cows.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/morik-cows.jpg
index ab9129f..076fdae 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/morik-cows.jpg
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/morik-cows.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/index.html
index 78e828e..07f887e 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/index.html
@@ -4,7 +4,7 @@
<head>
<meta charset="utf-8">
<title>Armenian heritage trip</title>
- <link rel="stylesheet" href="style.css">
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
</head>
<body>
@@ -21,11 +21,11 @@ The exact trip of each traveler was a little bit different, as represented here.
Due to the extensive nature of this memory, it has been broken up into sections:
<ol>
- <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html">Jerusalem</a></li>
- <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html">Istanbul</a></li>
- <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html">Erzincan & Kemah</a></li>
- <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html">Cappadocia</a></li>
- <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html">Kayseri & Develi</a></li>
+ <li><a href="./jerusalem/">Jerusalem</a></li>
+ <li><a href="./istanbul/">Istanbul</a></li>
+ <li><a href="./erzincan/">Erzincan & Kemah</a></li>
+ <li><a href="./cappadocia/">Cappadocia</a></li>
+ <li><a href="./kayseri-develi/">Kayseri & Develi</a></li>
</ol>
</body>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html
deleted file mode 100644
index d6529c5..0000000
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,293 +0,0 @@
-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
- <meta charset="utf-8">
- <title>Armenian heritage trip</title>
- <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Istanbul</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Nancy, James Jerusalem to Istanbul</h3>
-
-
-long cab ride
-
-<h3>First visit to Hippodrome</h3>
-
-<h3>diner</h3>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-19><a href=#2019-09-19>2019-09-19 Thursday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Sultans palace</h3>
-
-<h3>Harem</h3>
-
-<h3>Harant Dink foundation</h3>
-
-asian side of istanbul
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-20><a href=#2019-09-20>2019-09-20 Friday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Basillica cistern</h3>
-
-<h3>Armenian district</h3>
-
-found Armenian protestant church
-
-<h3>Blaise travels Madison to Istanbul</h3>
-
-<p>
-Blaise left Madison mid-afternoon Wisconsin time, traveling to Istanbul to meet Nancy and Jim.
-This involved a short flight Madison → Chicago, an ~11 hour flight Chicago → Istanbul, and a hour long bus ride to get downtown.
-The most remarkable experience was the Turkish Airlines flight, which involved an unprecedented level of hospitality.
-Every passenger was given two excellent meals, blanket, pillow, eye masks, slippers, headphones, and seemingly countless other little amenities.
-It's easy to see how Turkish Airlines got its reputation.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190919_201715.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Turkish Airlines airplane that took Blaise from Chicago to Istanbul. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190919_224234.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Dinner served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
-<ul>
- <li>chicken breast, penne, zucchini, eggplant</li>
- <li>fried eggplant and green pepper, tomato, white cheese</li>
- <li>salad with prawn</li>
- <li>lemonade with fresh mint</li>
-</ul>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190920_055602.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Breakfast served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
-<ul>
- <li>fresh fruit salad</li>
- <li>assorted cheese</li>
- <li>salad with prawn</li>
- <li>scrambled egg with cheese, mushrooms, potatoes, grilled tomato</li>
- <li>fresh bread, butter, jam</li>
- <li>coffee</li>
-</ul>
-
-<p>
-Arriving in Istanbul (early evening Istanbul time), Blaise was greeted by Nancy and Jim at the bus stop.
-Blaise was able to unpack before the three of them had a very nice meal at the restaurant across the street.
-</p>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-21><a href=#2019-09-21>2019-09-21 Saturday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Morning Walk</h3>
-
-<p>
-Nancy and Blaise started the morning with a walk along the Sea of Marmara, near the hotel.
-They saw divers with harpoons, fishermen, cats and dogs near the sea.
-After walking along the water for roughly 30 minutes, they turned around and returned to the hotel through the city.
-This included passing through the seafood restaurant area, several blocks worth of just seafood restaurants.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_091946.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-View of the Marmara sea. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_092759.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Seafood restaurant district. Early in the morning, so most restaurants are closed. <br>
-
-<h3>Hagia Sophia</h3>
-
-<p>
-At 10:30 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided tour of Hagia Sophia.
-On the way, they explored the Hippodrome and saw the Alman Çeşmesi.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_103539.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Alman Çeşmesi, exterior. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_103650.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Alman Çeşmesi, interior. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_103904.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Hagia Sophia as seen from the Hippodrome. <br>
-<br>
-
-<p>
-Their guide was from Bulgaria, with a mother born in Erzincan.
-There was a long line to enter into Hagia Sophia, but once inside it wasn't too crowded.
-The entire building is under constant restoration, exterior and interior.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_113821.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Hagia Sophpia exterior, detail. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_115354.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Outer corridor. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_115510.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-View of inner corridor, detail of main door only to be used by emperors.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_120536.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Internal sanctuary of Hagia Sophia.
-The top dome has 40 windows.
-One of the triangular pendentives can be seen, a large architectural innovation at the time.
-Much is under restoration.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_123241.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Interior shot of Hagia Sophia, featuring stained glass windows.
-The door-like structure is oriented towards Mecca for Muslim prayer.
-The lamps were placed low to the ground so that they could be lit as candles. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_123247.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Special stairway used by Muslims for delivering messages to congregation. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_125241.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Interior of Hagia Sophia, featuring column detail and special lamp.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_124354.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Interior of Hagia Sophia, focusing on angel artwork.
-Muslims believe that all faces must be covered in worship areas.
-The face of this angel was covered when Hagia Sophia became a mosque.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_124646.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Looking out from Hagia Sophia.
-In the distance, the minarets of the blue mosque can be seen. <br>
-<br>
-
-<h3>Bazaars of Istanbul</h3>
-
-<p>
-After Hagia Sophia Nancy, Jim, and Blaise toured the streets of Istanbul including several bazaars.
-First, they visited the grand bazzar.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_143225.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-One of the entrances to Istanbul's grand bazaar. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_143515.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Jim and Blaise inside the grand bazaar. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_143622.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Lighting store inside the grand bazaar. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_153435.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Water closet of the grand bazaar.
-All toilets were pay-to-enter.
-They were squat toilets.<br>
-
-<p>
-Then the spice market, a smaller bazaar near Galata Bridge with a focus on spices and food.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_160321.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-The spice market. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_160401.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Nancy and Blaise at the spice market. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_160535.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Large chunks of turkish delight being displayed at the spice market. <br>
-
-<p>
-There were even markets in unexpected places, such as this one which they stumbled upon in a tunnel underneath the interstate.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_161210.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-A bazaar located in a tunnel under the interstate.
-<br>
-
-
-<h3>Bosophorus boat tour</h3>
-
-<p>
-At 17:00 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided boat tour of the Bosophorus straight.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190922_093007.jpg"
- alt=""
- width="100%">
-Bosophorus tour route. <br>
-<br>
-
-<h3>dinner</h3>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-22><a href=#2019-09-22>2019-09-22 Sunday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>depart</h3>
-
-</body>
-</html>
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+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>Istanbul</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Istanbul</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Nancy, James Jerusalem to Istanbul</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers flew from Telaviv to Istanbul and caught a cab.
+The cab ride covered a distance of about 60 miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is good that the airport has many moving sidewalks because the place is HUGE.
+It took the travelers a long time to get from the places where they debarked the plane to the place where they collected their luggage, went through security and found a cab.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="airport-walkway.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Istanbul Airport walkway.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Istanbul Overview</h3>
+
+<p>
+Istanbul is a popular place to visit with a long and important history.
+The travelers wanted to experience this place and gain some understanding of what life may have been like for Yesia when he lived there.
+Yesia began working in Istanbul when he was 13 and lived there until he was 17 when he immigrated to the US (1900) due to Turkish fear of Armenian revolutionaries.
+</p>
+
+<h3>Basileus Hotel</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers arrived at <a href=https://www.basileushotel.com/>Basileus Hotel</a>, their home away from home in Istanbul.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="basileus-exterior.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Basileus exterior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="basileus-nancy.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Nancy naps in her Basileus bed.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Istanbul first reactions</h3>
+
+<p>
+There seem to be lots of dogs and cats roaming the streets.
+It appeared that they were all fed and perhaps even vaccinated.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dogs.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Public Istanbul dogs.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers enjoyed turkish delight candy.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="turkish-delight.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Turkish delight being sold at a local shop.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Hagia Sophia at sunset was a special sight.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="hagia-sophia-sunset.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Hagia Sophia at sunset.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers had dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant.
+Both Jim and Nancy had an entire bowl (meant to be for dipping) of jajikh.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="three-partners.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-19><a href=#2019-09-19>2019-09-19 Thursday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>breakfast</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers learned that Turkish breakfast is quite different from "continental style".
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="breakfast.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Basileus hotel breakfast.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Sultan's Palace</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited the <a href=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topkap%C4%B1_Palace>Sultan's Palace</a>.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-wall.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Outer wall of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-gate.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Inner gate of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-model.jpg">
+ <figcaption>3D model of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-pebbles.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Pebble art at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-wall-detail.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Interesting wall detail at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-tile-ceiling.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Tile ceiling in one of the kiosks on the property.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="harem-building.jpg">
+ <figcaption>The Harem building on the sultan’s property.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-toilet.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Toilet for the sultan's mother.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-lighting.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Interesting lighting.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-fireplace.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Fireplace in the Sultan’s bedroom.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-bedroom-window.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Sultan's bedroom window.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sultan-drainage.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Fancy drainage system.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Hrant Dink Foundation</h3>
+
+<p>
+After lunch the travelers undertook to find the offices of the <a href=https://hrantdink.org/tr/>Hrant Dink Organization</a> located on the Asian side of Istanbul.
+They had the address but had trouble finding it.
+Finally they did find it with the help of Jim’s phone GPS and a hand drawn map by a tattoo artist who worked in a shop nearby.
+Once there, they were given helpful information about visiting Istanbul, Kayseri and Erzindjan.
+The staff were interested in the fact that the travelers were visiting Develi in an attempt to see where the property Yesia inherited may have been.
+Evidently this organization is in the process of suing the Turkish government which claims that Armenians who left Turkey before the genocide as Turkish citizens should be entitled to reparations.
+They do not intend to be part of this lawsuit, but wonder if Turkish documents about Yesia might have indicated if he was a Turkish citizen when he left in 1900.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After spending the afternoon in this way, the travelers enjoyed a nice dinner before bed.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="nancy-dinner.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Nancy enjoys dinner.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-20><a href=#2019-09-20>2019-09-20 Friday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Basilica Cistern</h3>
+
+<p>
+Jim and Nancy tour The Basilica Cistern- used by Romans to bring water via aquaducts to the city.
+7000 slaves dug the hole (9 feet deep, 140 feet long and 70 feet wide) in 9 months.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="cistern-columns.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Many columns, some reused from other places.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="weeping-column.jpg">
+ <figcaption>The weeping column- dedicated to the many workers died in the process of constructing the place.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Armenian district</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="coffee-sand.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Making Turkish coffee in sand.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="steps.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Steep colored steps on a street.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="fixer-upper.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Lots of fixer-uppers.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="sweat-shop.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Sweat shops are in the basements of various businesses.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-church-exterior.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church exterior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-church-interior.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church interior.
+ Lit two candles for Azniv here.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-church-caretaker.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church caretaker.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="shoes.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Many, many shoe businesses, as there where when Yesia worked for his shoemaker uncle.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Blaise travels Madison to Istanbul</h3>
+
+<p>
+Blaise left Madison mid-afternoon Wisconsin time, traveling to Istanbul to meet Nancy and Jim.
+This involved a short flight Madison → Chicago, an ~11 hour flight Chicago → Istanbul, and a hour long bus ride to get downtown.
+The most remarkable experience was the Turkish Airlines flight, which involved an unprecedented level of hospitality.
+Every passenger was given two excellent meals, blanket, pillow, eye masks, slippers, headphones, and seemingly countless other little amenities.
+It's easy to see how Turkish Airlines got its reputation.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190919_201715.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Turkish Airlines airplane that took Blaise from Chicago to Istanbul. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190919_224234.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Dinner served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
+<ul>
+ <li>chicken breast, penne, zucchini, eggplant</li>
+ <li>fried eggplant and green pepper, tomato, white cheese</li>
+ <li>salad with prawn</li>
+ <li>lemonade with fresh mint</li>
+</ul>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190920_055602.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Breakfast served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
+<ul>
+ <li>fresh fruit salad</li>
+ <li>assorted cheese</li>
+ <li>salad with prawn</li>
+ <li>scrambled egg with cheese, mushrooms, potatoes, grilled tomato</li>
+ <li>fresh bread, butter, jam</li>
+ <li>coffee</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>
+Arriving in Istanbul (early evening Istanbul time), Blaise was greeted by Nancy and Jim at the bus stop.
+Blaise was able to unpack before the three of them had a very nice meal at the restaurant across the street.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="blaise-nancy-meet.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Blaise and Nancy meet.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="friday-dinner.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Travelers enjoy dinner at a local restaraunt.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-21><a href=#2019-09-21>2019-09-21 Saturday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Morning Walk</h3>
+
+<p>
+Nancy and Blaise started the morning with a walk along the Sea of Marmara, near the hotel.
+They saw divers with harpoons, fishermen, cats and dogs near the sea.
+After walking along the water for roughly 30 minutes, they turned around and returned to the hotel through the city.
+This included passing through the seafood restaurant area, several blocks worth of just seafood restaurants.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_091946.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+View of the Marmara sea. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_092759.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Seafood restaurant district. Early in the morning, so most restaurants are closed. <br>
+
+<h3>Hagia Sophia</h3>
+
+<p>
+At 10:30 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided tour of Hagia Sophia.
+On the way, they explored the Hippodrome and saw the Alman Çeşmesi.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_103539.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Alman Çeşmesi, exterior. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_103650.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Alman Çeşmesi, interior. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_103904.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Hagia Sophia as seen from the Hippodrome. <br>
+<br>
+
+<p>
+Their guide was from Bulgaria, with a mother born in Erzincan.
+There was a long line to enter into Hagia Sophia, but once inside it wasn't too crowded.
+The entire building is under constant restoration, exterior and interior.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_113821.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Hagia Sophpia exterior, detail. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_115354.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Outer corridor. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_115510.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+View of inner corridor, detail of main door only to be used by emperors.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_120536.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Internal sanctuary of Hagia Sophia.
+The top dome has 40 windows.
+One of the triangular pendentives can be seen, a large architectural innovation to support heavy domes.
+Much is under restoration.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_123241.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Interior shot of Hagia Sophia, featuring stained glass windows.
+The door-like structure is oriented towards Mecca for Muslim prayer.
+The lamps were placed low to the ground so that they could be lit as candles. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_123247.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Special stairway used by Muslim imans for delivering messages to congregation. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_125241.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Interior of Hagia Sophia, featuring column detail and special lamp.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_124354.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Interior of Hagia Sophia, focusing on angel artwork.
+Muslims believe that all faces must be covered in worship areas.
+The face of this angel was covered when Hagia Sophia became a mosque.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_124646.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Looking out from Hagia Sophia.
+In the distance, the minarets of the blue mosque can be seen. <br>
+<br>
+
+<h3>Bazaars of Istanbul</h3>
+
+<p>
+After Hagia Sophia Nancy, Jim, and Blaise toured the streets of Istanbul including several bazaars.
+First, they visited the Grand Bazzar.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_143225.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+One of the entrances to Istanbul's Grand Bazaar. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_143515.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Jim and Blaise inside the Grand Bazaar. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_143622.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Lighting store inside the Grand Bazaar. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_153435.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Water closet at the Grand Bazaar.
+All toilets were pay-to-enter.
+They were squat toilets.<br>
+
+<p>
+Then the spice market, a smaller bazaar near Galata Bridge with a focus on spices and food.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_160321.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+The Spice Market. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_160401.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy and Blaise at the Spice Market. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_160535.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Large chunks of turkish delight being displayed at the Spice Market. <br>
+
+<p>
+There were even markets in unexpected places, such as this one which they stumbled upon in a tunnel underneath the interstate.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_161210.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+A bazaar located in a tunnel under the interstate.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Bosphorus boat tour</h3>
+
+<p>
+At 17:00 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided boat tour of the Bosphorus straight.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190922_093007.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Bosphorus tour route. <br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dolmabahce.jpg">
+ <figcaption>View of Dolmabahce Palace from the Bosphorus.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="boat-selfie.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Travelers pose during the Bosphorus boat tour.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>dinner</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="bridge-dinner.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Nancy and Blaise enjoy the view during dinner.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="bridge.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Wharf where the travelers ate dinner.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+</body>
+</html>
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+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>Jerusalem</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Jerusalem</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-13><a href=#2019-09-13>2019-09-13 Friday</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Nancy and Jim travel to Tel Aviv.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="airplane.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Jim's plane in SanFrancisco.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="staff.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Turkish Airlines staff in San Francisco.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Assistance of United staff helped Nancy find how to get to Terminal 5 at O’Hare and reach the plane going to Istanbul.
+On the plane, she had the assistance of a Bosnian couple in knowing how to work the various technology at her seat.
+Had wanted to watch the movie “The Guernsey Literary…” and it was available for free on this flight.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-14><a href=#2019-09-14>2019-09-14 Saturday</a></h2>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="istanbul-airport.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Terminal in Istanbul.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+In the Istanbul airport, Nancy had the assistance of a couple from Pakistan living in Indiana in knowing how to read the departure board and establish phone and wifi connection in the airport so she could rendezvous with Jim.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="airplane-selfie.jpg">
+ <figcaption>The travelers take a selfie on the airplane from Istanbul to TelAviv.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="istanbul-night.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Istanbul at night, from the airplane.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<p>
+As the travelers were entering Jerusalem, they were almost in an accident when the shuttle bus was squeezed between a bus and a bluff.
+The shuttle bus dropped the travelers off in Jerusalem at midnight- Damascus gate- about 10 minutes away from the hotel.
+The streets were dark and empty.
+Use of global app and phone flashlight enabled them to walk to the hotel in the Old City in the dark with their luggage.
+Nancy’s main suitcase was still to come.
+</p>
+
+<img src="damascus-gate.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Damascus gate.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="hotel-doors.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Hotel doors.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="hotel-interior.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Hotel interior.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="jerusalem-map.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+A map of Jerusalem's old city.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-15><a href=#2019-09-15>2019-09-15 Sunday</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Not having connected with the contact person, George Hintlian, the travelers explored the Old City on their own.
+Many of the things they saw were seen again in more detail on Monday and Tuesday with George.
+</p>
+
+<img src="shops.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Shop along the alleyways in Old City Jerusalem.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
+
+<p>
+Church of the Holy Sepulchre - believed to be the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and resurrection.
+Currently occupied by several christian groups: Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic, and to a lesser degree the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/de/Plan_of_the_Church_of_the_Holy_Sepulchre_and_adjacent_structures_in_Jerusalem_-_Chrysanthus_of_Bursa_-_1807.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Footprint. Chrysanthus of Bursa [Public domain]</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="sepulchre-exterior.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Holy Sepulchre exterior.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="sepulchre-interior.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Holy Sepulchre interior.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="sepulchre-dome.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Holy Sepulchre dome.
+<br>
+
+<h3>lunch</h3>
+
+<img src="sunday-lunch.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy and Jim enjoyed lunch, but they realized that they were gouged badly when the bill came.
+They learned to look at a menu with prices before ordering.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Wailing Wall</h3>
+
+<img src="wailing-stands.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Stands to hold prayer material.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="wailing-men.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Wailing Wall men's side.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="wailing-special.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Special area which is covered (men's side).
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="wailing-washing.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Handwashing area for use before approaching the wall.</figcaption>
+<figure>
+
+<img src="wailing-women.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Wailing Wall women's side.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="tamia-prayer.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy delivered a prayer from Tamia and left it in the wailing wall.
+<br>
+
+<p>
+After viewing the Wailing Wall, the travelers walked back to the hotel to take a nap.
+Needed to recover after long trip from USA to Israel.
+</p>
+
+<h3>Armenian Quarter & St. James' Cathedral</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-statuary.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Statuary in the courtyard of St. James' Cathedral.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="armenian-seminary.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Monastery/seminary in the Armenian Quarter
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="genocide-poster.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Reminder of the genocide.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-patriarchate.jpg">
+ <figccaption>Street sign indicates that the Patriarchate of the Armenian Orthodox Church resides in this Quarter.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>dinner, end of day</h3>
+
+<p>
+The Travelers ate dinner at Bulghourji Restaurant which served Armenian food.
+</p>
+
+<img src="sunday-dinner.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Dinner.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="shops-closed.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Shops closed at the end of the day.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="hotel-roof-night.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Night view from hotel rooftop.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-16><a href=#2019-09-16>2019-09-16 Monday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>morning</h3>
+
+<p>
+Monday morning, with help of hotel staff, Nancy's luggage was found.
+The day included times when the travelers were with George and times when they were on their own.
+</p>
+
+<img src="hotel-roof-sunrise.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Sunrise from hotel rooftop.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Dome of the Rock</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited the Dome of the Rock.
+Nancy had previously visited in 1969 (50 years prior).
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dome-1.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dome-2.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dome-3.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Santa Anna Church</h3>
+
+<p>
+Next to Bethesda ruins.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="santa-anna.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Bethesda pool</h3>
+
+<img src="bethesda-1.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers walked the rampart wall from Jaffa gate to Zion gate.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-cemetery.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Armenian cemetery.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="rampart-1.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="rampart-2.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+<br>
+
+<h3>David's Tower</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited this museum, which describes the 21 layers of history in Jerusalem.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="21-layers.jpg">
+ <figcaption>21 layers of history at david's tower.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>meet with George at Christ's church café</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers met with <a href=https://openjlem.hypotheses.org/1192>George Hintlian</a>.
+Following are two audio recordings from that meeting.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio1.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio2.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers looked more carefully with George for information about Miriam Torosian (n.e.e. Jerahian).
+They wanted to see if there are records that she was born or married in Jerusalem.
+They found no records.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="miriam.png">
+ <figcaption>Torosian family photo.
+ Left to right, Miram, John, and John's wife Paroos (n.e.e. Takousian).
+ Picture was probably taken in 1912 when John and Paroos were married.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at St. James'</h3>
+
+<p>
+George showed them St. James' Cathedral.
+Nancy shared the family's Armenian table grace with George, who was touched.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="st-james-1.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at Gulbenkian Library</h3>
+
+<p>
+Besides exploring our data about Miriam Jerahian, George was also interested in their data about Grandpa’s property in Turkey.
+He read the English and Turkish papers
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio3.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="gulbenkian.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers returned to the CHS with George.
+He included them in showing Canadian officials an area in the basement which had recently been studied by the National Geographic and was not open to the general public.
+Recent research affirms that this was the place of Jesus’ tomb.
+A YouTube video on this issue may be found <a href=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uuZ-C7nmj4>here</a>.
+This counters research (Talpoit tomb) which concluded that Jesus’ body and family tomb had been found about three miles away from the CHS.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio4.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-gate.jpg">
+ <figcaption>the gate to the basement of the CHS</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-george.jpg">
+ <figcaption>George explaining the recent research.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-research1.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-research2.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-dynamics.jpg">
+ <figcaption>George giving details about the dynamics of the various groups occupying the CHS .</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-ladder.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Note ladder.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>dinner with George</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dinner-george.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-17><a href=#2019-09-17>2019-09-17 Tuesday</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Nancy’s luggage was finally delivered to the hotel by staff who had to walk to another hotel outside the wall to get it.
+</p>
+
+<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers took a second walk on the wall.
+This time they walked from the Jaffa gate to the Damascus gate.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="from-wall.jpg">
+ <figcaption>View of Jerusalem from the wall.</h3>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Israeli Museum</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers viewed the dead sea scrolls at the Israeli Museum, which is outside the Old City.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dead-sea-scroll.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at the Armenian Apostolic Church Office</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="george-nancy-book.jpg">
+ <figcaption>George and Nancy look for information about Miriam Jerahian.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at the Gulbenkian Library</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="walk-to-library.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Walking to the Gulbenkian library in the Armenian Quarter.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at Armenian Cemetery</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="cemetery-selfie.jpg">
+ <figcaption>George,Nancy and Jim standing in the cemetery of the Armenian Quarter in front of a memorial to Armenian soldiers who fought post 1918.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>wrapping up with George</h3>
+
+<p>
+The afternoon before the travelers left Israel for Turkey, George shared that they should not take the original paperwork (English and Turkish) about Yesia’s inherited property to Turkey.
+He offered to keep it for them until he could get it to Jim via a trusted person.
+The travelers followed George’s advice and were glad they did.
+Because in Turkey they had three experiences which could have placed them in a position they did not intend to be in while there.
+First, when they met with the Hrant Dink staff in Istanbul, they wanted to know if Yesia had been a Turkish citizen when he left Turkey in 1900 because they had a law suit against Turkey showing that such citizens may have been entitled to property.
+Second, they had an unexpected interaction with a national Turkish politician in Erzindjan and a semi-expected interaction with a local Turkish official in Develi.
+Both wanted to know about possible property implications of their visit.
+For all three instances they were grateful that they did not have these papers with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They had a second dinner with George during which they had candid discussion of politics in Armenia, Israel and Turkey.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>depart</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers met a cab at the Jaffa gate with their luggage and drove to Tel Aviv.
+They drove through sections which showed the barriers between Palestine and Israel with long lines of people waiting to go to work on buses.
+</p>
+
+</body>
+</html>
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+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>Kayseri & Develi</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Kayseri & Develi</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-25><a href=#2019-09-25>2019-09-25 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Traveling Cappadocia to Kayseri</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers drove from Cappadocia to Kayseri.
+It rained hard, revealing that their rental vehicle had bad wipers.
+There wasn't much traffic, but Google routed them strangely including a trip through Kayseri's industrial district.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="kayseri-map.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Map of Kayseri.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>first night in Kayseri</h3>
+
+<p>
+In Kayseri the travelers stayed in Setenonu 1892 Hotel, a very fancy hotel in the center of the city.
+They had two rooms, with three beds this time.
+Nancy used the very fancy hotel bathroom for her laundry, a humorous juxtaposition.
+After settling in, the travelers had a quick dinner within walking distance.
+The waiter and restaurant owner spoke no english.
+It continued to rain very hard.
+</p>
+
+<img src="hotel-beds.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+One of the rooms in Setenonu 1892 Hotel.
+[38.716 N, 35.485 E] <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="hotel-laundry.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy does her laundry in the hotel bathroom.
+Note the use of suction cups to attach to the marble walls.
+[38.716 N, 35.485 E] <br>
+<br>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-26><a href=#2019-09-26>2019-09-26 Thursday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>traveling Kayseri to Develi</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers enjoyed a wonderful drive over Mt Erciyes from Kayseri to Develi.
+One of the small pieces of information remembered by Nancy is that, although the family lived closer to Kayseri, they would prefer to travel to Istanbul because the way to Kayseri was made so difficult by the mountain.
+Although modern roads make the way easy, it was clear to the travelers why it would be difficult to travel over Mt. Erciyes in those times.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They met their guide (Selim Akdoğan) at the entrance of town.
+Selim proved to be an amazing local guide.
+His business care gives the following credentials and roles: B.Sc P.D. MBA CCol ASDC Economist, Scientist, Journalist, Historian, Politician, Senior Executive.
+Selim has a clear love for natural life & enjoys exchanging views with everyone.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="develi-map.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Map of Develi.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>the Torosian family</h3>
+
+<p>
+The traveler's ancestors had the surname Torosian.
+This corresponds to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taurus_Mountains">Toros Mountain Range</a>, which passes through Develi.
+The Torosians lived in an Armenian village called Fenesse next to a Turkish village Develi.
+Currently, the village of Fenesse is simply a district of Develi, and no Armenians reside in the area.
+The travelers searched modern Develi for evidence of the Torosian family.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This photo of Yesia was taken between 1900 when he immigrated to the US and 1908 when he was married.
+As of 1933, Yesia and his wife petitioned Turkish authorities (via the US Department of State) for compensation for the loss of family real estate and properties.
+Yesia claimed that his uncle, Sarkis Effendi Yanuk Garabed Torosian, had bequeathed a home and vineyards to him which were described in detail.
+The claim was denied but Jim and Nancy had the documents with the description of the properties.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="Yesia.png">
+ <figcaption>Photograph of Yesia Torosian.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Fenesse</h3>
+
+<p>
+The Torosians were, in part, vineyard owners.
+There are no longer vineyards in Develi, but the same valley described in Nancy's notes still has visible terracing from those days.
+The entire area was clearly cultivated in the past.
+The guide Selim remembered the time when there were vineyards from his own childhood.
+</p>
+
+<img src="terracing.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Valley in Develi, showing signs of terracing.
+[38.392 N, 35.502 E] <br>
+
+<p>
+Nancy's notes contained references of a fountain in Fenesse, where spring water would emerge with great force.
+This old fountain has been converted into a swimming pool.
+There are many springs around Develi, which lead to a "ground irrigated" effect and relatively fertile soil.
+</p>
+
+<img src="pool.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+old fountain, now a swimming pool.
+[38.387 n, 35.501 e] <br>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="pool-tile.jpg">
+ <figcaption>detail of swimming pool, showing tilework</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The guide Selim showed the travelers where the ruins of St. Toros were.
+This was the main Armenian church in Fenesse.
+This is likely where the Torosians would have attended church.
+It has now been made into a childrens playground, with only one wall of the church still standing.
+</p>
+
+<img src="trovos.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Ruined wall of St. Toros church.
+Left to right: unknown local man, Selim, Nancy, Jim.
+[38.387 N, 35.496 E] <br>
+
+<h3>municipality office</h3>
+
+<p>
+Selim was kind enough to introduce the travelers to the municipality officials at the head office of Develi.
+These are the locally elected government officials.
+The travelers were introduced to the acting mayor, and the <a href="https://www.develi.bel.tr/birimlerimiz/kultur-ve-sosyal-isler-mudurlugu">acting director of culture and social affairs</a>.
+These officials were very accommodating, seeing that all needs were taken care of.
+They even vacuum packed the goat cheese (Tulum) that the travelers were still carrying from Kemeryaka.
+The culture and social affairs director (Ali Orhan), stayed with the travelers for the remainder of their visit.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All enjoyed a discussion of Torosian property and Develi history.
+A map showing the various districts of Develi hung on the wall.
+The Torosian family lived in the Fenesse district.
+The Everek district was close by, but separated by Turkish occupied land.
+</p>
+
+<img src="districts.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Districts of Develi. <br>
+
+<h3>old Develi</h3>
+
+<p>
+After meeting the municpality officials, the travlers, guide Selim, and cultural affairs director Ali headed out to take a walking tour of Develi.
+</p>
+
+<img src="fenesse-sign.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+A sign points the way to Fenesse.
+[38.391 N, 35.492 E] <br>
+
+<p>
+A school near the town center was serving a special "Noah soup", celebrating the date when the Biblical ark made ground.
+Nancy was of great interest to the local students as a professor from America.
+All gathered around to try out their ability to speak english.
+</p>
+
+<img src="soup.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Travelers enjoy "Noah soup".
+Foreground left to right, acting mayor, local government man, Ali, Selim, Jim.
+Note very large soup bowl on table.
+[38.387 N, 35.492 E] <br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="noah-soup.jpg">
+ <figcaption>closeup of noah soup</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="nancy-students.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Students gather around Nancy.
+All are interested to hear and speak English.
+Students asked if Americans learn about Turkey.
+[38.387 N, 35.492 E] <br>
+
+<p>
+Along the walking tour of Fenesse, the travelers meet a local family making grape honey on the street.
+They share their creation, which tasted very sweet with unusual undertones.
+</p>
+
+<img src="honey1.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+<img src="honey2.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+<img src="honey3.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Locals reduce grapes into a rich honey.
+[38.383 N, 35.491 E] <br>
+
+<p>
+They visited many old buildings.
+</p>
+
+<img src="fenesse-building.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Typical old building in old Develi.
+Many of these buildings were around even when Armenians occupied this area.
+[38.383 N, 35.490 E] <br>
+<br>
+
+<p>
+There were also local people knocking down walnuts from trees.
+The freshly harvested walnuts had a strong flavor.
+</p>
+
+<img src="walnuts.gif"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Locals use a long stick to harvest from a walnut tree. <br>
+
+</h3>Everek Church<h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers saw an old Armenian church in Everek district.
+The building is still standing, but is now being used as a mosque.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="mosque-interior.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>lunch</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers were treated to lunch by the standing mayor and cultural official.
+They ate at an outdoor restaurant in the town center, Elbiz restaurant.
+The cuisine was Turkish pizza.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="elbiz.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Natural spring in the center of Elbiz park.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Bedrosian home</h3>
+
+<p>
+After lunch, the travelers visited the home previously owned by the Bedrosian family, the last Armenian family to occupy Develi.
+This home was in the Everek district.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="bedrosian-key.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Key to Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="bedrosian-arch.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Archway in Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="bedrosian-baby.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Baby carriage left in Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>upper Develi</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited upper Develi, the old town that looks over the valley where the modern city lies.
+This old town has suffered through a few earthquakes, but original buildings do still stand.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The travelers saw a very old mosque in the mountains above Develi.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="tomb-exterior.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Mosque exterior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="tomb.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Next, the travelers visited the second oldest mosque in Develi, located in upper Develi.
+They enjoyed a sweet traditional drink, stored in large stone containers within the mosque.
+This mosque was gifted to the city by a very wealthy woman.
+A stone column in the front of the mosque freely rotates, its joint captured but not pinned by the stone above.
+This is an "earthquake alert system"; any small motion of the stone caused by an earthquake would cause the column to either stop freely rotating or fall out.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="mosque-develi.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="rotating-column.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Freely rotating column.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="women-wall.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Wall where women may watch the prayer.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers went up to the ridge where several Turkish millitary memorials were erected.
+The overlook provided remarkable views of the mountains and valley.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="nancy-develi.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Nancy poses in front of Develi.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="selfie.JPG">
+ <figcaption>All pose for a selfie with the view in the background.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>back to Kayseri, dinner</h3>
+
+<p>
+After another very busy day, the travelers were happy to return to Kayseri.
+For dinner they tried a restaurant that specializes in manti, a favorite family food.
+Kayseri is said to be the birthplace of mainti, and there are many varieties served there.
+Nancy, Jim, and Blaise were able to each try a different variety of manti for dinner.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="manti1.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Blaise's manti.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="manti2.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Nancy's manti.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="manti3.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Jim's manti.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-27><a href=#2019-09-27>2019-09-27 Friday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Armenian Apostolic Church</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers were able to visit a local Armenian Apostolic Church.
+This may be the only Armenian church in the wider area of Kayseri / Develi.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="kayseri-church-exterior.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Exterior of Armenian Apostolic Church.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="kayseri-church-interior.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Interior of Armenian Apostolic Church.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="kayseri-church-dome.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Interior of Armenian Apostolic Church, dome detail.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>casual day</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers split up and enjoyed a casual day of rest in Kayseri.
+Nancy and Blaise went to work at on organizing notes at a local Starbucks.
+Jim had fun exploring the city and enjoying amenities at a fancy hotel nearby.
+The travelers enjoyed the "sights and sounds" of everyday life in Kayseri.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="public-transportation.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Kayseri public transportation was modern and efficient.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="kayseri-mall.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Very fancy local mall.
+ Note security guard; security was clearly a big deal in Kayseri.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="kayseri-pool.jpg">
+ <figcaption>High-rise indoor pool enjoyed by Jim.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="highrise.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Kayseri glitzy highrise. Lighting cycled through several animations.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-28><a href=#2019-09-28>2019-09-28 Saturday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>travel home</h3>
+
+<p>
+All three of the travelers left Kayseri- Nancy and Blaise for the USA and Jim for a little more time in Istanbul.
+After dropping off the rented car, they began the journey in the Kayseri airport
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="kayseri-airport.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Kayseri airport.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="bosphorus.jpg">
+ <figcaption>View of the Bosphorus as Blaise flew into Istanbul.
+ A fitting last look at Turkey.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+In Istanbul Blaise and Nancy knew that a delay (2 hours) of the flight to Chicago would pose problems in getting to our respective final destinations.
+The Turkish Air folks arranged for Blaise to have a stand by status with an Am Airlines flight but he still needed to check with their office in Chicago.
+Nancy did not have any options since the flight to Cedar Rapids was the last one that night.
+Once Blaise and Nancy parted in Chicago, Nancy did what she could to make my flight to Cedar Rapids.
+Had to go through security and get to the gate.
+Poor signage confused her and she went to the gate terminal (1) rather than the security terminal (2) first.
+While waiting in the security line she met a kind woman who was in the same boat.
+When they both discovered that they could not get to Cedar Rapids that night, she (Jeanette Harrington) offered to let Nancy share her hotel room.
+She did so and Nancy was able to shower and have 3 hours of sleep before returning to O’Hare for the final flight home.
+</p>
+
+</body>
+</html>
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diff --git a/public/index.html b/public/index.html
index eab724c..0ac5d0c 100644
--- a/public/index.html
+++ b/public/index.html
@@ -28,7 +28,27 @@
<tr>
<td>2019-09-13</td>
<td>2019-09-28</td>
- <td><a href="armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip</a></td>
+ <td><a href="/armenian-heritage-trip/">Armenian heritage trip</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>2018-12-21</td>
+ <td>2018-12-21</td>
+ <td><a href="./2018-solstice-letter/">2018 winter solstice letter</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>2017-12-21</td>
+ <td>2017-12-21</td>
+ <td><a href="./2017-solstice-letter/">2017 winter solstice letter</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>2016-12-21</td>
+ <td>2016-12-21</td>
+ <td><a href="./2016-solstice-letter/">2016 winter solstice letter</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td>2015-12-21</td>
+ <td>2015-12-21</td>
+ <td><a href="./2015-solstice-letter/">2015 winter solstice letter</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>1999-06-13</td>
@@ -36,6 +56,11 @@
<td><a href="vehrzheen">Vehrzheen</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
+ <td>2014-12-21</td>
+ <td>2014-12-21</td>
+ <td><a href="./2014-solstice-letter/">2014 winter solstice letter</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
<td>2010</td>
<td>2010</td>
<td><a href="100-mile-wilderness.html">100 mile wilderness</a></td>
diff --git a/public/style.css b/public/style.css
index 45fb8c4..4903d2f 100644
--- a/public/style.css
+++ b/public/style.css
@@ -17,6 +17,16 @@ body {
overflow-y: scroll;
}
+hr {
+ display: block;
+ margin-top: 0.5em;
+ margin-bottom: 0.5em;
+ margin-left: auto;
+ margin-right: auto;
+ border-style: inset;
+ border-width: 1px;
+}
+
table, th, td {
border: 1px solid #969896;
border-collapse: collapse;
@@ -33,12 +43,16 @@ th, td {
width: 50%;
}
-span.left {
-position: absolute;
-left: 0;
+figure {
+ width: 100%;
+ margin: 0px auto;
+ margin-bottom: 1em;
+}
+
+audio {
+ width: 100%;
}
-span.right {
-position: absolute;
-right: 0;
+img {
+ width: 100%;
}