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authorBlaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>2019-09-29 17:07:03 -0500
committerBlaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>2019-09-29 17:07:03 -0500
commitf9771f8f085b95b9d9ccc3521009dee7938ddf26 (patch)
tree4bb1913e03d3ead0a6cf8f6532126906668be739
parent88062db8f48ec498577c1336ab3ea42331747e2f (diff)
update amt
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip.html
index 158c6fa..78e828e 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip.html
@@ -21,11 +21,11 @@ The exact trip of each traveler was a little bit different, as represented here.
Due to the extensive nature of this memory, it has been broken up into sections:
<ol>
- <li>Israel</li>
+ <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html">Jerusalem</a></li>
<li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html">Istanbul</a></li>
- <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html">Erzincan</a></li>
- <li>Cappadocia</li>
- <li>Kayseri</li>
+ <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html">Erzincan & Kemah</a></li>
+ <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html">Cappadocia</a></li>
+ <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html">Kayseri & Develi</a></li>
</ol>
</body>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a38ab97
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html
@@ -0,0 +1,248 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>Cappadocia</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Cappadocia</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-24><a href=#2019-09-24>2019-09-24 Tuesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Traveling Erzincan to Cappadocia</h3>
+
+<p>
+The drive from Erzincan to Cappadocia was pleasant.
+There were many little bridges over the road to allow water to cross without washing out the road itself.
+The travelers saw animals, including a herd of sheep that crossed the road forcing a small delay.
+Each town seemed centered around a mosque with tall minarets.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Along the way, the travelers saw an excelent view of Mount Ericyes from the Kayseri side.
+When the view is clear, it is obvious that the mountain is a volcano that has erupted before.
+</p>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/volcano.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+A view of of Mount Ericyes from the Kayseri side.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+
+
+<h3>Lunch at Sivas</h3>
+
+<p>
+Nancy, Jim, and Blaise stopped at the city of Sivas for lunch.
+This was the birthplace of St. Blaise.
+Sivas is a large city with a complex network of busy roads.
+There are no parking meters, but individual workers make it their business to take a fee from each car that parks for more than one hour.
+</p>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/blaise-sivas.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Blaise poses in front of a hotel in central Sivas.
+Sivas was the birthplace of St. Blaise, Blaise's namesake.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+
+<h3>night in Gorome</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers arrived in Cappadocia late afternoon, just before sunset.
+They stayed in the town of Gorome, at the center of the Cappadocia region.
+Gorome is a rock city with many buildings built into the walls and pillars
+</p>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/gorome-hotel.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+An example hotel in Gorome.
+Many hotels are built right into the rock walls and pillars that surround the town.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+
+<p>
+Initially there was some confusion about which hotel was correct, as there are many hotels whose names contain some combination of "cave" and "suite".
+The travelers stayed in the Ottoman Cave Suite hotels, which was right at the center of Gorome and afforded wonderful views of the surrounding town during sunset.
+They had a honeymoon suite on the top floor, with a personal hot tub and a wonderful view of the surrounding city.
+The travelers watched the sun set from the roof of their hotel.
+</p>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/hotel-windows.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+View from inside the hotel room.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/gorome-sunset.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Sun setting over gorome, as viewed from the hotel roof.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/sunset-selfie.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Jim, Nancy, and Blaise enjoying the sunset.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+
+<p>
+After unpacking and watching the sunset, the travelers enjoyed a nice chinese dinner at ????? restraunt.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-25><a href=#2019-09-25>2019-09-25 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h2>waking up</h2>
+
+<p>
+The sunrise was also fantastic as viewed from the hotel roof.
+</p>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/sunrise.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Sun rising over Gorome, as viewed from the hotel roof.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/sunrise-blaise.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Blaise poses on the hotel roof during the sunrise.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+
+<p>
+During breakfast, the travelers finally tried the talum from Kemah.
+One of the hotel empoyees shared her own talum, which is made with "black seed" (cumin)
+</p>
+
+<h2>hike</h2>
+
+<p>
+The travelers took a taxi to the top of the ridge (sun set point) and meandered their way down through the valleys and caves of Cappadocia.
+Ultimately, they arrived at Çavuşin.
+</p>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/eye-tree.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+A tree near sunset point that has been decorated with "evil eyes".
+This symbol was common throughout the region.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/red-valley-blaise.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Blaise poses at the entrance to the red valley.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/nancy-doorway.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy poses near the door of one of the carved dwellings.
+Note how thick the walls were made.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/red-valley-painting.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+View inside of one of the carved dwellings, showing painted roof detail.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/red-valley-nancy.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy sits at the entrance to one of the red valley dwellings.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+
+<p>
+At some point, the travelers hopped from the Red Valley to Rose Valley.
+Rose valley contained many amazing carved rock structures.
+</p>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/rose-valley.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Rose valley rock formations.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/rose-valley-nancy-jim.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy and jim pose at the entrance to Rose Valley.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/nancy-bridge.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy stands on the bridge into column church.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/column.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Column church, interior.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/blaise-carvings.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Blaise poses in front of some carved structures in Rose Valley.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+
+<p>
+Foolishly, the travelers forgot water and food.
+They were happy to discover an oasis cafe "StarBox" which offered refreshing fruit juice and water.
+This cafe was located right under cross church, and the view into Rose Valley was amazing.
+</p>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/cross-church-painting.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Painting within cross church, next to StarBox.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+
+<p>
+Taxi back to Hotel.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Castle</h2>
+
+Drove to Castle.
+
+Lunch near top.
+
+<img src="cappadocia/lunch.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Lunch.
+[COORDINATES]<br>
+
+
+Saw camels.
+
+View. 9 TL to enter.
+
+Raining that day.
+
+
+
+</body>
+</html>
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html
index 6856628..183576f 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html
@@ -3,64 +3,419 @@
<html>
<head>
<meta charset="utf-8">
- <title>Erzincan</title>
+ <title>Erzincan & Kemah</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
</head>
<body>
-<h1>Erzincan</h1>
+<h1>Erzincan & Kemah</h1>
Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-22><a href=#2019-09-22>2019-09-22 Sunday</a></h2>
-Monday
+<h3>arrival</h3>
-[FLEW IN]
+<p>
+The travelers took a 1.5 hour flight from Istanbul to Erzincan, arriving around 15:00.
+Erzincan is a medium sized city, with an official population roughly 37,000.
+The true population is twice that, with many of the undocumented being Roma.
+The airport is quite modern and nice, funded extensively by Russians.
+</p>
-[HOTEL]
-Total cost of hotel was 480 TL for three nights.
+<img src="erzincan/erzincan-airport.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Erzincan airport. <br>
-[MET WITH AHMED FOR DINNER]
+<p>
+The city of Erzincan has been almost entirely rebuilt since the 1939 earthquake.
+Unlike other cities visited by the travelers, the roads are clearly planned and the buildings seem quite modern.
+</p>
-09:00 Breakfast at local restaurant with books hanging from ceiling [WHICH RESTARAUNT?.
+<p>
+The hotel was quite nice, more like an apartment than a typical hotel room.
+There were two small bedrooms, a bathroom including washing machine, kitchen complete with stove, and a very large living and dining room.
+Jim and Nancy took the bedrooms, while Blaise slept on the living room couch.
+Total cost of hotel was 480 TL for two nights.
+</p>
-Drove to old Erzincan, took photos [INSERT PHOTOS HERE, COMPARISON OF MOUNTAIN RAINGES]
+<img src="erzincan/erzincan-hotel.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Living and dining room of Erzincan hotel. <br>
-Visited muslim cemetery. Saw tomb of Turkish lady that died as a suicide bomber.
+<h3>dinner</h3>
-On drive to Kemah, saw gorge where people do bungee jumping and climbing.
-There was am memorial there for a group of soldiers that died when their vehicle crashed into the gorge.
+<p>
+The travelers met their guide (Ahmed) and his driver.
+The driver spoke only Turkish and was not very communicative for the entire trip.
+All five enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant.
+Credit cards were a problem, but the travelers were able to withdraw cash from nearby ATMs.
+After dinner, all five visited a local bar to plan the trip.
+At the bar, Nancy enjoyed drinking special Erzincan carbonated lemon drink (Kizilay).
+</p>
-Drove to Kemah, saw ruins.
-Got good view of likely place where Armenians were pushed to their death.
+<h3>Tevhit Karakaya</h3>
-Got tea with young friend of Ahmed who worked at a paint store.
+<p>
+On the flight from Istanbul to Erzincan Nancy was placed in first class for some reason.
+Nancy sat next to a local politician and business man <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tevhit_Karakaya">Tevhit Karakaya</a>.
+Tehvit was interested in Nancy's historic photos of Erzincan.
+Tevhit did not speak English, but a friend of his translated on the plane.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Tevhit invited the travelers to stop by his hotel to obtain a book of historic Erzincan photos which he himself had compiled.
+Once Ahmed heard of the Nancy's interactions with Tevhit, Ahmed called Tevhit and all were invited to meet Tevhit at his hotel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+While at the hotel, Tevhit and his associates asked Nancy and Jim for more information regarding their Erzincan relatives.
+All enjoyed tea and special Erzincan grapes.
+The travelers needed to be instructed to eat the grape seeds, and indeed the seeds were easy to eat and even seemed to enhance the grape texture.
+The grapes were very sweet and the seeds were not at all bitter.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/with-karakaya.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+The travelers meet with Tevhit Karakaya (far right).
+Picture taken in lobby of Karakaya hotel.
+Note grapes held by Nancy. <br>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-23><a href=#2019-09-23>2019-09-23 Monday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>breakfast</h3>
+
+<p>
+At around 09:00, the travelers met with Ahmed and started their day with breakfast at a local restaurant, Siber Bilişim Sistemleri.
+It was a typical middle eastern breakfast with a large variety of options.
+The travelers enjoyed trying rose petal jam, similar to that made by Azniv Torosian and remembered as part of Nancy and Jim's childhood.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/monday-breakfast.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Jim and Nancy enjoy breakfast. <br>
+
+<h3>old Erzincan</h3>
+
+<p>
+Nancy and Jim's Grandmother (Azniv Torosian, nee Shakargian) was born in old Erzincan.
+She left in 1902 with her parents, one brother, and the brother's wife and children.
+An additional sister stayed behind as she was already married.
+Azniv was roughly 16 years old at the time.
+The travelers attempted to visit the place where Azniv and her family had lived.
+</p>
+
+[TODO: photo of family that left]
+
+<p>
+Nancy's notes contained a picture of old Erzincan (1907) behind which a particular view of the mountain range could be seen.
+This was Mount Kazen Kaya.
+It was also known that old Erzincan was next to the Euphrates river.
+Since the earthquake and rebuilding, there are almost no remaining structures or clues about the position of old Erzincan.
+Still, the travelers were able to find the mountain view as seen in the old pictures, and also where the Euphrates currently flows.
+</p>
+
+[TODO: include old photograph for comparison] <br>
+
+<img src="erzincan/old-mountains.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy and Jim pose in front of the mountain range from Nancy's notes.
+Immediately behind the photographer is the Euphrates river.
+[39.691N, 39.504E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="erzincan/erzincan-mountain-detail.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Detail of mount Kazen Kaya. <br>
+
+<h3>cemetery</h3>
+
+<p>
+Visited Muslim cemetery.
+Saw tomb of Turkish soldier that died as a suicide bomber.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/tomb.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Tomb of a Turkish soldier.
+[39.717N,39.498E] <br>
+
+<h3>drive to Kemah</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers headed to Kemah, which is about 40 miles from Erzincan by car.
+Along the way many military instillations were seen.
+The car passed through a check point, which our guide was able to talk his way through without difficulty.
+The Turkish government has military in this region due to fears of Kurdish and Syrian terrorist attacks from the south.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Along the drive, the travelers stopped at Kemah gorge, which is now used as a point of recreation (base jumping, climbing etc.)
+There is a turkish monument at this place which memorializes a truckload of soldiers that died here in a car accident on the bridge.
+One Armenian story about this place is that 30 (?) unmarried young women committed mass suicide here to avoid having to convert from Christianity to Islam.
+This gorge is 13 km from the town of Kemah.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/kemah-gorge.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Kemah gorge.
+[39.653N, 39.360E] <br>
+
+<h3>Kemah</h3>
+
+<p>
+Nancy and Jim's Great Grandmother, Azniv's mother, Lucien Donegian is believed by the travelers to have grown up in the Kemah area.
+Azniv's father, Stephan Shekargian, was living in Erzincan and traveled two days by horse to marry Lucien.
+Azniv described trips to visit Lucien's family, where wonderful stones sparkled in the sun.
+It's likely true that Lucien was from one of the several Kemah-associated villages.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Arriving in Kemah, the travelers found the location of another photograph from Nancy's notes: the Kemah Fort.
+They were able to find the exact point where the photograph was taken.
+</p>
+
+[TODO: old photo for comparison]
+
+<img src="erzincan/kemah-ruins.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy and Jim pose in front of Kemah fort.
+[39.603N, 39.0372E] <br>
+
+<p>
+The fort was built into a mountain which gives a good view of modern Kemah.
+There were also caves that had been fortified, and an ongoing archaeological excavation.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/kemah.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Town of Kemah as seen from Kemah fort. [39.604N, 39.035E] <br>
+
+<p>
+Beside Kemah, on the other side of the Euphrates river, is a large ridge which is currently occupied by a Turkish millitary outpost.
+The travelers believe that this is the famous ridge from which 25,000 Armenians were thrown to their death between June 10 through 14, 1915.
+Oral history describes the Euphrates filled with bodies and red with blood.
+Before that time, many Armenians lived peacefully in this area.
+In 2019 the city of Kemah contains just 2000 people, all Arab.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/kemah-ridge.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Kemah ridge as seen from Kemah fort. [39.604N, 39.036E]<br>
+
+<p>
+After visiting Kemah Fort, the travelers spent some time in the Kemah city center.
Once Ahmed suggested tea, it was remarkable how quickly the young friend was able to procure it.
+Kemah seems like a nice city, with local cats dogs and chickens.
+The town is clean and bustling with activity.
+</p>
+
+<h3>lunch</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers had lunch at a rustic outdoor restaurant called Kemah Alabalık Tesisleri.
+Specialty was trout, and delicious shepard's salad.
+The lunch featured special salt mined near Kemah.
+There was a pomegranate sauce that was excellent on the salad: nar ekşisi kalori.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/kemah-lunch.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Travelers enjoying lunch. [39.614N, 39.038E]<br>
+
+<h3>Kemeryaka</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers were interested in trying to find the exact village where Lucien Donegian grew up.
+In pursuit of this, Ahmed took them to the local village of Kemeryaka.
+There they found many village men doing construction working together to build a new brick house in the center of town.
+All shared tea and great conversation as translated by Ahmed.
+In conversation, they recommended that the travelers visit Morik.
+The crucial piece of information in recommending Morik was stories of Kurds storing their freshly caught meat in a special place near the village where Lucien lived.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/kemeryaka-group.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Travelers meet with men of Kemeryaka. [39.550N, 39.068E]<br>
+
+<h3>stone khatchkar</h3>
+
+<p>
+It seems that local Arab people believe that Armenians were some kind of treasure keepers, rich magical people of old.
+The people of Kemeryaka seem excited to show the travelers some local "mythical" signs of historic Armenian presence.
+One of the village elders jokes that when the travelers find the Armenian treasure they can split it "50/50".
+There are interesting parallels between stereotypes about Armenians and those about Jews.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Joined by several teenage boys from Kemeryaka, the travelers drove to a place where khatchkar (crosses) have been carved into the stone by previous Armenian dwellers.
+The valley that they visited was truly beautiful, and it was powerful to see sure signs of Armenian presence.
+One of the two khatchkarkars had recently been destroyed by other treasure seekers.
+The travelers theorize that these khatchkars were used as road markers for an old mountain pass.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/khatch1.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Khatchkar carved into stone. [39.546N,39.0648E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="erzincan/khatch2.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Travelers discuss khatchkares.
+Note two other khatchkars on the right hand side of the photo.
+[39.544N, 39.063E] <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="erzincan/khatch3.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Second khatchkar, destroyed.
+[39.544N, 39.065E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="erzincan/khatch4.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Second khatchkar, detail.Note crosses above, writing below, and star or flower.
+[39.544N, 39.065E]<br>
+<br>
-Lunch at fancy outdoor restaurant: trout, shepards salad.
+<img src="erzincan/khatch5.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Mountains where khatchkars were carved.
+[39.548N, 39.0648E]<br>
-Drove to [VILLAGE 1], where men were doing construction building a brick house.
-In conversation regarding Lucien Donegian, they recommended that we look at Marig.
-The crucial piece of information in recommending Marig was stories of Kurds storing their freshly caught meat in a special place near the village where Lucien lived.
+<h3>Morik</h3>
-Drove to see hatchkars in stone.
-Several teenage boys joined us.
-First hatchkar was intact, second destroyed.
-Turkish people believe armenians to have had some kind of treasure.
+<p>
+As mentioned earlier, one unique feature of Lucien's village was their unique storage facilities for meat and cheese.
+These facilities were used by many local villages and nomadic Kurds as they were quite valuable.
+When the travelers mentioned this to the men of Kemeryaka, those men instantly agreed that the village in question was likely Morik.
+Morik's old name was Ayranpınar.
+</p>
-Drove to Marig, on the way dropping off teenage boys and picking up an older man from [VILLAGE 1].
-The older man sat on Amhed's lap for the trip.
-As they arrived at Marig, we needed to stop several times to let cows pass by the car.
-We drove to the village directors home, meeting first his son.
-Director arrived later.
+<p>
+On the way to Morik, the travelers dropped off the teenage boys from Kemeryaka and picked up an adult man Mehmet who seemed to be a local leader.
+Mehmet sat on Ahmed's lap in the front seat for the trip between villages.
+As the travelers arrived, the way into the village was blocked by cows.
+The village director's son was moving them through the main street.
+They drove to the village director's (Umit) home.
+All enjoyed an active conversation sharing the reason for visiting and the history of Lucien Donegian.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/morik-cows.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Cows on the way into Morik.
+[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="erzincan/morik-conversation.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Conversation on the deck of Umit, Morik's appointed director, home.
+Left to right pictured Ahmed, Umit, Mehmet.
+[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="erzincan/morik-son.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Son of Umit (right), and his son grandson of Umit (left) during the conversation.
+Grandson enjoying fresh tomato.
+[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
+
+<p>
+From Umit's home all rode or hiked up to the storage cave.
+Amhed's car couldn't make it all the way up because the mountain became too steep.
+Umit shared that the cave is special because the mountain makes ice there all year round.
+Currently it is mainly used for goat cheese (tulum), which develops in the cave for six months.
+There are currently 40 tons of cheese inside.
+Mehmet himself was storing cheese in the cave, despite the fact that he is from a different village.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/jim-tractor.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Jim and Mehmet riding a tractor up the mountain to visit the ice cave.
+[39.631N, 38.997E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="erzincan/morik-hole.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy, Ahmed, and Umit visit the ice cave.
+[39.631N, 38.996E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="erzincan/morik-key.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Umit showing off the key to the ice cave.
+[39.631N, 38.996E]<br>
+
+<p>
+Since the ice cave was higher up on the mountain, there was an excellent view of Morik and surroundings.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan/morik-view.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+View of Morik from near the ice cave.
+[39.632N, 38.997E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="erzincan/nancy-morik.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy with Morik in the background.
+[39.631N, 38.997E]<br>
+
+<h3>return to Erzincan</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers went first to Kemeryaka to drop off Mehmet.
+From Mehmet they bought a large amount of local goat cheese (tulum), totaling 630 TL.
+Most of this was given to Ahmed and the driver, as there was way too much to take home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After all this the travelers returned to their hotel in Erzincan and slept well.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-24><a href=#2019-09-24>2019-09-24 Tuesday</a></h2>
-Saw ice cave.
-40 tons of cheese (unclear).
+<h3>Euphrates</h3>
-Back to [VILLAGE 1], drop off old man.
+<p>
+Tuesday morning Nancy washed her feet in the Euphrates river.
+After this, and breakfast, the travelers set on their way to Cappadocia.
+</p>
-Back to hotel.
+<img src="erzincan/euphrates.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+View of the Euphrates as it was when Nancy washed her feet.
+[39.701N, 39.519E]<br>
</body>
</html>
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/with-karakaya.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/with-karakaya.jpg
new file mode 100755
index 0000000..5afd778
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/with-karakaya.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html
index 22abd97..d6529c5 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html
@@ -13,8 +13,37 @@
Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Nancy, James Jerusalem to Istanbul</h3>
+
+
+long cab ride
+
+<h3>First visit to Hippodrome</h3>
+
+<h3>diner</h3>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-19><a href=#2019-09-19>2019-09-19 Thursday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Sultans palace</h3>
+
+<h3>Harem</h3>
+
+<h3>Harant Dink foundation</h3>
+
+asian side of istanbul
+
+<hr>
<h2 id=2019-09-20><a href=#2019-09-20>2019-09-20 Friday</a></h2>
+<h3>Basillica cistern</h3>
+
+<h3>Armenian district</h3>
+
+found Armenian protestant church
+
<h3>Blaise travels Madison to Istanbul</h3>
<p>
@@ -253,5 +282,12 @@ At 17:00 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided boat tour of the Bosophorus str
Bosophorus tour route. <br>
<br>
+<h3>dinner</h3>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-22><a href=#2019-09-22>2019-09-22 Sunday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>depart</h3>
+
</body>
</html>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..85b59ee
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html
@@ -0,0 +1,137 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>Jerusalem</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Jerusalem</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-14><a href=#2019-09-14>2019-09-14 Saturday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>traveling Iowa City to Jerusalem</h3>
+
+large accident on the way to Cedar Rapids
+
+Chicago Nancy had a hard time finding Terminal 5
+
+Long flight Nancy sat next to couple from Croatia
+
+Nancy arrived at Istanbul airport, met Jim
+
+Fly to Jerusalem
+
+arrive Telaviv, shuttle to Jerusalem
+
+00:00 walked to hotel through dark stone alleyways 8 minute
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-15><a href=#2019-09-15>2019-09-15 Sunday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>lunch</h3>
+
+got scalped by them
+
+<h3>wailing wall</h3>
+
+"western wall"
+
+<h3>Armenian quarter</h3>
+
+<h3>St. James' Cathedral</h3>
+
+<h3>Dome of the Rock</h3>
+
+<h3>dinner</h3>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-16><a href=#2019-09-16>2019-09-16 Monday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>sunrise</h3>
+
+<h3>Dome of the Rock</h3>
+
+Nancy had previously visited in 1969 (50 years prior)
+
+<h3>Bethsada pool</h3>
+
+<h3>rampart wall</h3>
+
+Jaffa gate to Zion gate
+
+<h3>first meeting with George</h3>
+
+<h3>Tower of David</h3>
+
+saw the history of 21 historic periods in Jerusalem
+
+<h3>George Hintlian</h3>
+
+https://openjlem.hypotheses.org/1192
+
+<h3>prayer at St James'</h3>
+
+<h3>Armenain compound</h3>
+
+600 people
+
+20 courtyards
+
+<h3>Armenian library</h3>
+
+with George
+
+<h3>Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
+
+Monday 17:00
+
+meeting officials from Canada
+
+show newly excavated areas
+
+<h3>Tea, Dinner</h3>
+
+Monday night
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-17><a href=#2019-09-17>2019-09-17 Tuesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>rampart wall</h3>
+
+Tuesday morning
+
+Jaffa gate to Damascus gate
+
+<h3>St James' church</h3>
+
+look more carefully with George
+
+<h3>Israeli museum</h3>
+
+dead sea scrolls
+
+<h3>tea with George</h3>
+
+<h3>Armenian cemetery</h3>
+
+<h3>dinner with George</h3>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>depart</h3>
+
+Wednesday morning
+
+meet taxi at christ church
+
+drove to airport seeing divide of Palestine
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c219ff0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html
@@ -0,0 +1,118 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>Kayseri & Develi</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Kayseri & Develi</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-25><a href=#2019-09-25>2019-09-25 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h2>Traveling Cappadocia to Kayseri</h2>
+
+Drove to Kayseri.
+
+Raining, bad wipers on rental vehicle.
+
+<h2>first night in Kayseri</h2>
+
+[HOTEL PICTURES]
+
+Dinner within walking distance of hotel.
+
+Raining hard.
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-26><a href=#2019-09-26>2019-09-26 Thursday</a></h2>
+
+<h2>traveling Kayseri to Develi</h2>
+
+Met our Guide (Selim Akdoğan) at entrance of town.
+
+<h2>Armenian vineyards</h2>
+
+mount [ARCHIOS]
+
+part of mountain range [TOROS]
+
+<h2>old fountain</h2>
+
+now swimming pool
+
+<h2>municipality office</h2>
+
+mayor, elected by locals
+
+discussion of torosian property
+
+they vacuum packed our tulum
+
+districts of Develi
+
+Met Ali Orhan, local government person (Acting Director of Culture and Social Affairs)
+
+https://www.develi.bel.tr/birimlerimiz/kultur-ve-sosyal-isler-mudurlugu
+
+<h2>Fenesse</h2>
+
+school serving "noah soup"
+
+Nancy was of great interest (ooooh a professor from america)
+
+ladies making fruit juice
+
+people knocking down walnuts
+
+ruins of St. Trovos in Fenesse
+
+<h2>lunch</h2>
+
+<h2>Evereg</h2>
+
+old church now mosque
+
+house owned by Bedrosians
+
+<h2>upper Develi</h2>
+
+tomb of ???
+
+second oldest mosque
+
+cross mountain
+
+turkish millitary memorials
+
+<h2>saying goodbye</h2>
+
+turkish coffee
+
+returned cheese
+
+exchanged contact information
+
+<h2>back to Kayseri, dinner</h2>
+
+sampled types of Manti
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-27><a href=#2019-09-27>2019-09-27 Friday</a></h2>
+
+Casual day exploring Kayseri.
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-28><a href=#2019-09-28>2019-09-28 Saturday</a></h2>
+
+Nancy and Blaise back to USA.
+
+James to Istanbul until Monday.
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/index.html b/public/index.html
index 40e52fc..915ed0e 100644
--- a/public/index.html
+++ b/public/index.html
@@ -19,7 +19,7 @@
<th>memory</th>
</tr>
<tr>
- <td>2019-09-20</td>
+ <td>2019-09-13</td>
<td>2019-09-28</td>
<td><a href="armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip</a></td>
</tr>