From 56d58b54589cd9b2d7015208478d09339e4136dc Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 16:49:14 -0500
Subject: porcupine tills

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-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Cappadocia</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Cappadocia</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-24><a href=#2019-09-24>2019-09-24 Tuesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Traveling Erzincan to Cappadocia</h3>
-
-<p>
-The drive from Erzincan to Cappadocia was pleasant.
-There were many little bridges over the road to allow water to cross without washing out the road itself.
-The travelers saw animals, including a herd of sheep that crossed the road forcing a small delay.
-Each town seemed centered around a mosque with tall minarets.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Along the way, the travelers saw an excelent view of Mount Ericyes from the Kayseri side.
-When the view is clear, it is obvious that the mountain is a volcano that has erupted before.
-</p>
-
-<img src="volcano.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A view of of Mount Ericyes from the Kayseri side.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Lunch at Sivas</h3>
-
-<p>
-Nancy, Jim, and Blaise stopped at the city of Sivas for lunch.
-This was the birthplace of St. Blaise.
-Sivas is a large city with a complex network of busy roads.
-There are no parking meters, but individual workers make it their business to take a fee from each car that parks for more than one hour.
-</p>
-
-<img src="blaise-sivas.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Blaise poses in front of a hotel in central Sivas.
-Sivas was the birthplace of St. Blaise, Blaise's namesake.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Cappadocia overview</h3>
-
-<p>
-Pronounced "cap a dough sha".
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Cappadocia, a semi-arid region in central Turkey, is known for its distinctive “fairy chimneys,” tall, cone-shaped rock formations clustered in Monks Valley, Göreme and elsewhere.
-Other notables sites include Bronze Age homes carved into valley walls by troglodytes (cave dwellers) and later used as refuges by early Christians.
-The 100m-deep Ihlara Canyon houses numerous rock-face churches.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Although the travelers have no relatives in this area, they decided to visit Cappadocia anyway to take in the amazing geology.
-It was well worth the visit.
-</p>
-
-<h3>night in Goreme</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers arrived in Cappadocia late afternoon, just before sunset.
-They stayed in the town of Goreme, at the center of the Cappadocia region.
-Goreme is a rock city with many buildings built into the rock walls and pillars
-</p>
-
-<img src="gorome-hotel.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-An example hotel in Goreme.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-Initially there was some confusion about which hotel was correct, as there are many hotels whose names contain some combination of "cave" and "suite".
-The travelers stayed in the <a href=http://www.ottomancavesuites.com>Ottoman Cave Suite</a> hotels, which was right at the center of Goreme and afforded wonderful views of the surrounding town during sunset.
-They had a honeymoon suite on the top floor, with a personal hot tub and a wonderful view of the surrounding city.
-The travelers watched the sun set from the roof of their hotel.
-</p>
-
-<img src="hotel-windows.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View from inside the hotel room.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="gorome-sunset.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Sun setting over gorome, as viewed from the hotel roof.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="sunset-selfie.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Jim, Nancy, and Blaise enjoying the sunset.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="night-castle.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-The nearby castle at night, as viewed from the hotel.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-After unpacking and watching the sunset, the travelers enjoyed a nice Chinese dinner at a local restaurant.
-</p>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-25><a href=#2019-09-25>2019-09-25 Wednesday</a></h2>
-
-<h2>waking up</h2>
-
-<p>
-The sunrise was also fantastic as viewed from the hotel roof.
-</p>
-
-<img src="sunrise.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Sun rising over Goreme, as viewed from the hotel roof.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="sunrise-blaise.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Blaise poses on the hotel roof during the sunrise.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-During breakfast, the travelers finally tried the tulum from Kemah.
-One of the hotel empoyees shared her own tulum, which is made with "black seed" (cumin)
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="breakfast.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Breakfast at Ottoman Cave Suite.
-  Note the tulum on the table with Nancy and Blaise.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h2>hike</h2>
-
-<p>
-The travelers took a taxi to the top of the ridge (sun set point) and meandered their way down through the valleys and caves of Cappadocia.
-Ultimately, they arrived at Çavuşin.
-</p>
-
-<img src="eye-tree.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A tree near sunset point that has been decorated with "evil eyes".
-This symbol was common throughout the region.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="red-valley-blaise.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Blaise poses at the entrance to the red valley.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="nancy-doorway.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy poses near the door of one of the carved churches.
-Note how thick the walls were made.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="red-valley-painting.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View inside Kizilcukur Church, showing painted roof detail.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="red-valley-nancy.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy sits at the entrance to one of the red valley dwellings.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-At some point, the travelers hopped from the Red Valley to Rose Valley.
-Rose valley contained many amazing carved rock structures.
-</p>
-
-<img src="rose-valley.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Rose valley rock formations.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="rose-valley-nancy-jim.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy and jim pose at the entrance to Rose Valley.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="nancy-bridge.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy stands on the bridge into column church.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="column.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Column church, interior.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="blaise-carvings.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Blaise poses in front of some carved structures in Rose Valley.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-Foolishly, the travelers forgot water and food.
-They were happy to discover an oasis cafe "StarBox" which offered refreshing fruit juice and water.
-This cafe was located right under cross church, and the view into Rose Valley was amazing.
-</p>
-
-<img src="cross-church-painting.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Painting within cross church, next to StarBox.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-The travelers ultimately exited the valleys in a nearby town, and were able to catch a taxi back to their hotel.
-</p>
-
-<h2>Castle</h2>
-
-<p>
-As a last activity, the travelers visited the local castle.
-They ate lunch near the top.
-The view was amazing, even though it was raining that day.
-Nancy and Blaise paid 9 TL each to go to the top of the castle.
-It was a fairly tourist-centered area, but not many visitors were there.
-Their were camel rides available.
-</p>
-
-
-<img src="lunch.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Lunch.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="blaise-castle.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Blaise poses on top of the castle.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="camel.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Jim shows us a local camel.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-
-</body>
-</html>
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-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Erzincan & Kemah</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Erzincan & Kemah</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-
-<h3>note: historical vs modern Erzincan</h3>
-
-<p>
-Erzindjan is now north of the location as of 1907.
-When Azniv was born, Erzindjan and the surrounding area was part of Armenia.
-It was made part of Turkey in 1920 after the conclusion of WW1.
-Besides the genocide, Erzindjan is earthquake prone.
-In 1254 William Rubruck said more than 10,000 people were killed by an earthquake.
-In 1939 there was another earthquake which led to the death of 32,962.
-The old site was entirely abandoned and the town was relocated to the north.
-</p>
-
-<h3>note: family connection with Erzindjan</h3>
-
-<p>
-The following photo was taken​ in 1906,​ four years after Stepan and his family arrived in the US.
-Standing from left to right in the back row are: Azniv/Agnes Torosian (born Shakargian, who is Nancy and Jim’s maternal grandmother)​, her brother Arshag and his wife, Nartouhi Pojojian (alternates Nartoo, Pazozian, Posozian).
-The adults sitting from left to right in the front row are Nancy and Jim’s great-grandmother, Lucien Shakargian (born Donegian), and great-grandfather, Stepan Shakargian.
-The family believes two of the children are Arshag's children but the third child may be one of the sister's, Eva Kapigian (born Shakargian) children.
-The travelers  think Azniv was born in Erzindjan proper rather than adjacent villages because: 1) they used the Turkish bath house which was a Roman ruin, 2) they had a shop where folks bought things- perhaps sugar, candy, coffee, 3) Azniv went to a school and the city had a school for girls (Chrisdinian).
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="family-photo.png">
-  <figcaption>Shakargian family photo.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-22><a href=#2019-09-22>2019-09-22 Sunday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>arrival</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers took a 1.5 hour flight from Istanbul to Erzincan, arriving around 15:00.
-Erzincan is a medium sized city, with an official population roughly 37,000.
-The true population is twice that, with many of the undocumented being Roma.
-The airport is quite modern and nice, funded extensively by Russians.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan-airport.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Erzincan airport. <br>
-
-<p>
-The city of Erzincan has been almost entirely rebuilt since the 1939 earthquake.
-Unlike other cities visited by the travelers, the roads are clearly planned and the buildings seem quite modern.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-The travelers stayed at Hayat Home Suite in the center of town.
-The hotel was quite nice, more like an apartment than a typical hotel room.
-There were two small bedrooms, a bathroom including washing machine, kitchen complete with stove, and a very large living and dining room.
-Jim and Nancy took the bedrooms, while Blaise slept on the living room couch.
-Total cost of hotel was 480 TL for two nights.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan-hotel.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Living and dining room of Erzincan hotel. <br>
-
-<h3>dinner</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers met their guide (Ahmet Cetin) and his driver.
-The driver spoke only Turkish and was not very communicative for the entire trip.
-All five enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant.
-Credit cards were a problem, but the travelers were able to withdraw cash from nearby ATMs.
-After dinner, all five visited a local bar to plan the trip.
-At the bar, Nancy enjoyed drinking special Erzincan carbonated lemon drink (Kizilay).
-</p>
-
-<h3>Tevhit Karakaya</h3>
-
-<p>
-On the flight from Istanbul to Erzincan Nancy was placed in first class for some reason.
-Nancy sat next to a local politician and business man <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tevhit_Karakaya">Tevhit Karakaya</a>.
-Tehvit was interested in Nancy's historic photos of Erzincan.
-Tevhit did not speak English, but a friend of his translated on the plane.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Tevhit invited the travelers to stop by his hotel to obtain a book of historic Erzincan photos which he himself had compiled.
-Once Ahmed heard of the Nancy's interactions with Tevhit, Ahmet called Tevhit and all were invited to meet Tevhit at his hotel.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-While at the hotel, Tevhit and his associates asked Nancy and Jim for more information regarding their Erzincan relatives.
-All enjoyed tea and special Erzincan grapes.
-The travelers needed to be instructed to eat the grape seeds, and indeed the seeds were easy to eat and even seemed to enhance the grape texture.
-The grapes were very sweet and the seeds were not at all bitter.
-</p>
-
-<img src="with-karakaya.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-The travelers meet with Tevhit Karakaya (far right).
-Picture taken in lobby of Karakaya hotel.
-Note grapes held by Nancy. <br>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-23><a href=#2019-09-23>2019-09-23 Monday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>breakfast</h3>
-
-<p>
-At around 09:00, the travelers met with Ahmet and started their day with breakfast at a local restaurant, Siber Bilişim Sistemleri.
-It was a typical middle eastern breakfast with a large variety of options.
-The travelers enjoyed trying rose petal jam, similar to that made by Azniv Torosian and remembered as part of Nancy and Jim's childhood.
-</p>
-
-<img src="monday-breakfast.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Jim and Nancy enjoy breakfast. <br>
-
-<h3>old Erzincan</h3>
-
-<p>
-Nancy and Jim's Grandmother (Azniv Torosian, nee Shakargian) was born in old Erzincan.
-She left in 1902 with her parents, one brother, and the brother's wife and children.
-An additional sister stayed behind as she was already married.
-Azniv was roughly 16 years old at the time.
-The travelers attempted to visit the place where Azniv and her family had lived.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Nancy's notes contained a picture of old Erzincan (1907) behind which a particular view of the mountain range could be seen.
-This was Mount Kazen Kaya.
-It was also known that old Erzincan was next to the Euphrates river.
-Since the earthquake and rebuilding, there are almost no remaining structures or clues about the position of old Erzincan.
-Still, the travelers were able to find the mountain view as seen in the old pictures, and also where the Euphrates currently flows.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="labeled.png">
-  <figcaption>Old Erzincan.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="old-mountains.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy and Jim pose in front of the mountain range from Nancy's notes.
-Immediately behind the photographer is the Euphrates river.
-[39.691N, 39.504E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="erzincan-mountain-detail.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Detail of foothills adjacent to Mount Kazen Kaya. <br>
-
-<h3>cemetery</h3>
-
-<p>
-Travelers attempted to see the ruins of an Armenian cemetery, but were taken to a muslim cemetery instead.
-Saw tomb of a female Turkish soldier that died as a suicide bomber.
-</p>
-
-<img src="tomb.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Tomb of a Turkish soldier.
-[39.717N,39.498E] <br>
-
-<h3>drive to Kemah</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers headed to Kemah, which is about 40 miles from Erzincan by car.
-Along the way many military instillations were seen.
-The car passed through a check point, which our guide was able to talk his way through without difficulty.
-The Turkish government has military in this region due to fears of Kurdish and Syrian terrorist attacks from the south.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Along the drive, the travelers stopped at Kemah gorge, which is now used as a point of recreation (base jumping, climbing etc.)
-There is a turkish monument at this place which memorializes a truckload of soldiers that died here in a car accident on the bridge.
-This was undoubtedly one of the many places between Erzincan and Kemah where 25,000 Armenians were thrown into the Euphrates river (1915).
-This gorge is 13 km from the town of Kemah.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kemah-gorge.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Kemah gorge.
-[39.653N, 39.360E] <br>
-
-<h3>Kemah</h3>
-
-<p>
-Nancy and Jim's Great Grandmother, Azniv's mother, Lucien Donegian is believed by the travelers to have grown up in the Kemah area.
-Azniv's father, Stephan Shekargian, was living in Erzincan and traveled two days by horse to marry Lucien.
-Azniv described trips to visit Lucien's family, where wonderful stones sparkled in the sun.
-It's likely true that Lucien was from one of the several Kemah-associated villages.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Arriving in Kemah, the travelers found the location of another photograph from Nancy's notes: the Kemah Fort.
-They were able to find the exact point where the photograph was taken.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kemah-fort-drawing.png"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-
-<img src="kemah-ruins.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy and Jim pose in front of Kemah Fort.
-[39.603N, 39.0372E] <br>
-
-<p>
-The Fort was built into a mountain which gives a good view of modern Kemah.
-There were also caves that had been fortified, and an ongoing archaeological excavation.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kemah.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Town of Kemah as seen from Kemah Fort. [39.604N, 39.035E] <br>
-
-<p>
-Beside Kemah, on the other side of the Euphrates river, is a large ridge which is currently occupied by a Turkish millitary outpost.
-The travelers believe that this is the famous ridge from which 25,000 Armenians were thrown to their death between June 10 through 14, 1915.
-Oral history describes the Euphrates filled with bodies and red with blood.
-Before that time, many Armenians lived peacefully in this area.
-In 2019 the city of Kemah contains just 2000 people, all Turkish.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kemah-ridge.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Kemah ridge as seen from Kemah Fort. [39.604N, 39.036E]<br>
-
-<p>
-After visiting Kemah Fort, the travelers spent some time in the Kemah city center.
-Once Ahmet suggested tea, it was remarkable how quickly the young friend was able to procure it.
-Kemah seems like a nice city, with local cats, dogs, and chickens.
-The town is clean and bustling with activity.
-</p>
-
-<h3>lunch</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers had lunch at a rustic outdoor restaurant called Kemah Alabalık Tesisleri.
-Specialty was trout, and delicious Shepherd's Salad.
-The lunch featured special salt mined near Kemah.
-There was a pomegranate sauce that was excellent on the salad: nar ekşisi kalori.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kemah-lunch.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Travelers enjoying lunch. [39.614N, 39.038E]<br>
-
-<h3>Kemeryaka</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers were interested in trying to find the exact village where Lucien Donegian grew up.
-In pursuit of this, Ahmet took them to the local village of Kemeryaka.
-There they found many village men doing construction working together to build a new brick house in the center of town.
-All shared tea and great conversation as translated by Ahmet.
-In conversation, they recommended that the travelers visit Morik.
-The crucial piece of information in recommending Morik was Nancy's remembering that Azniv had said the place where her mother grew up had a storage area where many (including Kurds) stored their freshly caught meat.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kemeryaka-group.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Travelers meet with men of Kemeryaka. [39.550N, 39.068E]<br>
-
-<h3>stone khachkar</h3>
-
-<p>
-It seems that local Turkish people believe that Armenians were some kind of treasure keepers, rich magical people of old.
-The people of Kemeryaka seem excited to show the travelers some local "mythical" signs of historic Armenian presence.
-One of the village elders jokes that when the travelers find the Armenian treasure they can split it "50/50".
-There are interesting parallels between stereotypes about Armenians and those about Jews.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Joined by several teenage boys from Kemeryaka, the travelers drove to a place where khachkars (crosses) had been carved into the stone by previous Armenian dwellers.
-The valley that they visited was truly beautiful, and it was powerful to see sure signs of Armenian presence.
-One of the two khachkars had recently been destroyed by other treasure seekers.
-The travelers theorize that these khachkars were used as road markers for an old mountain pass.
-</p>
-
-<img src="khatch1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Khachkar carved into stone. [39.546N,39.0648E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="khatch2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Travelers discuss khachkares.
-Note two other khachkars on the right hand side of the photo.
-[39.544N, 39.063E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="khatch3.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Second khachkar, destroyed.
-[39.544N, 39.065E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="khatch4.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Second khachkar, detail.Note crosses above, writing below, and star or flower.
-[39.544N, 39.065E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="khatch5.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Mountains where khachkars were carved.
-[39.548N, 39.0648E]<br>
-
-<h3>Morik</h3>
-
-<p>
-As mentioned earlier, one unique feature of Lucien's village was their unique storage facilities for meat and cheese.
-These facilities were used by many local villages and nomadic Kurds as they were quite valuable.
-When the travelers mentioned this to the men of Kemeryaka, those men instantly agreed that the village in question was likely Morik.
-Morik's old name was Ayranpınar.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-On the way to Morik, the travelers dropped off the teenage boys from Kemeryaka and picked up an adult man Mehmet who seemed to be a local leader.
-Mehmet sat on Ahmet's lap in the front seat for the trip between villages.
-As the travelers arrived, the way into the village was blocked by cows.
-The village director's son was moving them through the main street.
-They drove to the village director's (Umit) home.
-All enjoyed an active conversation sharing the reason for visiting and the history of Lucien Donegian.
-</p>
-
-<img src="morik-cows.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Cows on the way into Morik.
-[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="morik-conversation.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Conversation on the deck of Umit, Morik's appointed director, home.
-Left to right pictured Ahmet, Umit, Mehmet.
-[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="morik-son.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Son of Umit (right), and his son grandson of Umit (left) during the conversation.
-Grandson enjoying fresh tomato.
-[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
-
-<p>
-From Umit's home all rode or hiked up to the storage cave.
-Amhed's car couldn't make it all the way up because the mountain became too steep.
-Umit shared that the cave is special because the mountain makes ice there all year round.
-Currently it is mainly used for goat cheese (tulum), which develops in the cave for six months.
-There are currently 40 tons of cheese inside.
-Mehmet himself was storing cheese in the cave, despite the fact that he is from a different village.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jim-tractor.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Jim and Mehmet riding a tractor up the mountain to visit the ice cave.
-[39.631N, 38.997E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="morik-hole.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy, Ahmet, and Umit visit the ice cave.
-[39.631N, 38.996E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="morik-key.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Umit showing off the key to the ice cave.
-[39.631N, 38.996E]<br>
-
-<p>
-Since the ice cave was higher up on the mountain, there was an excellent view of Morik and surroundings.
-</p>
-
-<img src="morik-view.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View of Morik from near the ice cave.
-[39.632N, 38.997E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="nancy-morik.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy with Morik in the background.
-[39.631N, 38.997E]<br>
-
-<h3>return to Erzincan</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers went first to Kemeryaka to drop off Mehmet.
-From Mehmet they bought a large amount of local goat cheese (tulum), totaling 630 TL.
-Most of this was given to Ahmet and the driver, as there was way too much to take home.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-After all this the travelers returned to their hotel in Erzincan and slept well.
-</p>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-24><a href=#2019-09-24>2019-09-24 Tuesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Euphrates</h3>
-
-<p>
-Tuesday morning Nancy placed her feet in the Euphrates river.
-The place she chose was not far from the 1907 location of Erzincan.
-After this, and breakfast, the travelers set on their way to Cappadocia.
-</p>
-
-<img src="euphrates.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View of the Euphrates as it was when Nancy placed her feet.
-[39.701N, 39.519E]<br>
-
-</body>
-</html>
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-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Armenian heritage trip</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Armenian heritage trip</h1>
-
-<p>
-In September 2019 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise took a vacation to explore their shared Armenian heritage.
-The primary purpose of this trip was to explore the old family homesteads in what is now Turkey.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-The exact trip of each traveler was a little bit different, as represented here.
-</p>
-
-Due to the extensive nature of this memory, it has been broken up into sections:
-<ol>
-  <li><a href="./jerusalem/">Jerusalem</a></li>
-  <li><a href="./istanbul/">Istanbul</a></li>
-  <li><a href="./erzincan/">Erzincan & Kemah</a></li>
-  <li><a href="./cappadocia/">Cappadocia</a></li>
-  <li><a href="./kayseri-develi/">Kayseri & Develi</a></li>
-</ol>
-
-</body>
-</html>
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-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Istanbul</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Istanbul</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Nancy, James Jerusalem to Istanbul</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers flew from Telaviv to Istanbul and caught a cab.
-The cab ride covered a distance of about 60 miles.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-It is good that the airport  has many moving sidewalks because the place is HUGE.
-It took the travelers  a long time to get from the places where they debarked the plane to the place where they collected their luggage, went through security and found a cab.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="airport-walkway.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Istanbul Airport walkway.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Istanbul Overview</h3>
-
-<p>
-Istanbul is a popular place to visit with a long and important history.
-The travelers wanted to experience this place and gain some understanding of what life may have been like for Yesia when he lived there.
-Yesia  began working in Istanbul when he was 13 and lived there until he was 17 when he immigrated to the US (1900) due to Turkish fear of Armenian revolutionaries.
-</p>
-
-<h3>Basileus Hotel</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers arrived at <a href=https://www.basileushotel.com/>Basileus Hotel</a>, their home away from home in Istanbul.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="basileus-exterior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Basileus exterior.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="basileus-nancy.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Nancy naps in her Basileus bed.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Istanbul first reactions</h3>
-
-<p>
-There seem to be lots of dogs and cats roaming the streets.
-It appeared that they were all fed and perhaps even vaccinated.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="dogs.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Public Istanbul dogs.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-The travelers enjoyed turkish delight candy.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="turkish-delight.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Turkish delight being sold at a local shop.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-Hagia Sophia at sunset was a special sight.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="hagia-sophia-sunset.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Hagia Sophia at sunset.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-The travelers had dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant.
-Both Jim and Nancy had an entire bowl (meant to be for dipping) of jajikh.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="three-partners.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-19><a href=#2019-09-19>2019-09-19 Thursday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>breakfast</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers learned that Turkish breakfast is quite different from "continental style".
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="breakfast.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Basileus hotel breakfast.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Sultan's Palace</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers visited the <a href=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topkap%C4%B1_Palace>Sultan's Palace</a>.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sultan-wall.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Outer wall of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sultan-gate.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Inner gate of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sultan-model.jpg">
-  <figcaption>3D model of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sultan-pebbles.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Pebble art at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sultan-wall-detail.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Interesting wall detail at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sultan-tile-ceiling.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Tile ceiling in one of the kiosks on the property.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="harem-building.jpg">
-  <figcaption>The Harem building on the sultan’s property.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sultan-toilet.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Toilet for the sultan's mother.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sultan-lighting.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Interesting lighting.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sultan-fireplace.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Fireplace in the Sultan’s bedroom.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sultan-bedroom-window.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Sultan's bedroom window.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sultan-drainage.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Fancy drainage system.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Hrant Dink Foundation</h3>
-
-<p>
-After lunch the travelers  undertook to find the offices of the <a href=https://hrantdink.org/tr/>Hrant Dink Organization</a> located on the Asian side of Istanbul.
-They had the address but had trouble finding it.
-Finally they did find it with the help of Jim’s phone GPS and a hand drawn map by a tattoo artist who worked in a shop nearby.
-Once there, they  were given helpful information about visiting Istanbul, Kayseri and Erzindjan.
-The staff were interested in the fact that the travelers were visiting Develi in an attempt to see where the property Yesia inherited  may have been.
-Evidently this organization is in the process of suing the Turkish government  which claims that Armenians who left Turkey before the genocide as Turkish citizens should be entitled to reparations.
-They do not intend to be part of this lawsuit, but wonder if Turkish documents about Yesia might have indicated if he was a Turkish citizen when he left in 1900.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-After spending the afternoon in this way, the travelers enjoyed a nice dinner before bed.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="nancy-dinner.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Nancy enjoys dinner.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-20><a href=#2019-09-20>2019-09-20 Friday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Basilica Cistern</h3>
-
-<p>
-Jim and Nancy tour The Basilica Cistern- used by Romans to bring water via aquaducts to the city.
-7000 slaves dug the hole (9 feet deep, 140 feet long and 70 feet wide) in 9 months.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="cistern-columns.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Many columns, some reused from other places.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="weeping-column.jpg">
-  <figcaption>The weeping column- dedicated to the many workers died in the process of constructing the place.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Armenian district</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="coffee-sand.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Making Turkish coffee in sand.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="steps.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Steep colored steps on a street.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="fixer-upper.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Lots of fixer-uppers.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="sweat-shop.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Sweat shops are in the basements of various businesses.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="armenian-church-exterior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church exterior.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="armenian-church-interior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church interior.
-  Lit two candles for Azniv here.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="armenian-church-caretaker.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church caretaker.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="shoes.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Many, many shoe businesses, as there where when Yesia worked for his shoemaker uncle.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Blaise travels Madison to Istanbul</h3>
-
-<p>
-Blaise left Madison mid-afternoon Wisconsin time, traveling to Istanbul to meet Nancy and Jim.
-This involved a short flight Madison → Chicago, an ~11 hour flight Chicago → Istanbul, and a hour long bus ride to get downtown.
-The most remarkable experience was the Turkish Airlines flight, which involved an unprecedented level of hospitality.
-Every passenger was given two excellent meals, blanket, pillow, eye masks, slippers, headphones, and seemingly countless other little amenities.
-It's easy to see how Turkish Airlines got its reputation.
-</p>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190919_201715.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Turkish Airlines airplane that took Blaise from Chicago to Istanbul. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190919_224234.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Dinner served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
-<ul>
-  <li>chicken breast, penne, zucchini, eggplant</li>
-  <li>fried eggplant and green pepper, tomato, white cheese</li>
-  <li>salad with prawn</li>
-  <li>lemonade with fresh mint</li>
-</ul>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190920_055602.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Breakfast served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
-<ul>
-  <li>fresh fruit salad</li>
-  <li>assorted cheese</li>
-  <li>salad with prawn</li>
-  <li>scrambled egg with cheese, mushrooms, potatoes, grilled tomato</li>
-  <li>fresh bread, butter, jam</li>
-  <li>coffee</li>
-</ul>
-
-<p>
-Arriving in Istanbul (early evening Istanbul time), Blaise was greeted by Nancy and Jim at the bus stop.
-Blaise was able to unpack before the three of them had a very nice meal at the restaurant across the street.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="blaise-nancy-meet.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Blaise and Nancy meet.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="friday-dinner.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Travelers enjoy dinner at a local restaraunt.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-21><a href=#2019-09-21>2019-09-21 Saturday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Morning Walk</h3>
-
-<p>
-Nancy and Blaise started the morning with a walk along the Sea of Marmara, near the hotel.
-They saw divers with harpoons, fishermen, cats and dogs near the sea.
-After walking along the water for roughly 30 minutes, they turned around and returned to the hotel through the city.
-This included passing through the seafood restaurant area, several blocks worth of just seafood restaurants.
-</p>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_091946.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View of the Marmara sea. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_092759.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Seafood restaurant district. Early in the morning, so most restaurants are closed. <br>
-
-<h3>Hagia Sophia</h3>
-
-<p>
-At 10:30 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided tour of Hagia Sophia.
-On the way, they explored the Hippodrome and saw the Alman Çeşmesi.
-</p>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_103539.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Alman Çeşmesi, exterior. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_103650.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Alman Çeşmesi, interior. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_103904.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Hagia Sophia as seen from the Hippodrome. <br>
-<br>
-
-<p>
-Their guide was from Bulgaria, with a mother born in Erzincan.
-There was a long line to enter into Hagia Sophia, but once inside it wasn't too crowded.
-The entire building is under constant restoration, exterior and interior.
-</p>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_113821.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Hagia Sophpia exterior, detail. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_115354.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Outer corridor. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_115510.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View of inner corridor, detail of main door only to be used by emperors.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_120536.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Internal sanctuary of Hagia Sophia.
-The top dome has 40 windows.
-One of the triangular pendentives can be seen, a large architectural innovation to support heavy domes.
-Much is under restoration.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_123241.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Interior shot of Hagia Sophia, featuring stained glass windows.
-The door-like structure is oriented towards Mecca for Muslim prayer.
-The lamps were placed low to the ground so that they could be lit as candles. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_123247.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Special stairway used by Muslim imans for delivering messages to congregation. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_125241.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Interior of Hagia Sophia, featuring column detail and special lamp.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_124354.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Interior of Hagia Sophia, focusing on angel artwork.
-Muslims believe that all faces must be covered in worship areas.
-The face of this angel was covered when Hagia Sophia became a mosque.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_124646.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Looking out from Hagia Sophia.
-In the distance, the minarets of the blue mosque can be seen. <br>
-<br>
-
-<h3>Bazaars of Istanbul</h3>
-
-<p>
-After Hagia Sophia Nancy, Jim, and Blaise toured the streets of Istanbul including several bazaars.
-First, they visited the Grand Bazzar.
-</p>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_143225.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-One of the entrances to Istanbul's Grand Bazaar. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_143515.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Jim and Blaise inside the Grand Bazaar. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_143622.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Lighting store inside the Grand Bazaar. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_153435.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Water closet at the Grand Bazaar.
-All toilets were pay-to-enter.
-They were squat toilets.<br>
-
-<p>
-Then the spice market, a smaller bazaar near Galata Bridge with a focus on spices and food.
-</p>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_160321.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-The Spice Market. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_160401.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy and Blaise at the Spice Market. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_160535.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Large chunks of turkish delight being displayed at the Spice Market. <br>
-
-<p>
-There were even markets in unexpected places, such as this one which they stumbled upon in a tunnel underneath the interstate.
-</p>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190921_161210.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A bazaar located in a tunnel under the interstate.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Bosphorus boat tour</h3>
-
-<p>
-At 17:00 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided boat tour of the Bosphorus straight.
-</p>
-
-<img src="IMG_20190922_093007.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Bosphorus tour route. <br>
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="dolmabahce.jpg">
-  <figcaption>View of Dolmabahce Palace from the Bosphorus.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="boat-selfie.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Travelers pose during the Bosphorus boat tour.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>dinner</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="bridge-dinner.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Nancy and Blaise enjoy the view during dinner.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="bridge.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Wharf where the travelers ate dinner.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-</body>
-</html>
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-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Jerusalem</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Jerusalem</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<p>
-Nancy and Jim travel to Tel Aviv.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/airplane.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Jim's plane in SanFrancisco.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/staff.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Turkish Airlines staff in SanFransisco.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-<br>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-14><a href=#2019-09-14>2019-09-14 Saturday</a></h2>
-
-<p>
-Arrive Istanbul, fly to Telaviv.
-Arrive Telaviv, shuttle to Jerusalem.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/istanbul-airport.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Terminal in Istanbul.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/airplane-selfie.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-The travelers take a selfie on the airplane from Istanbul to Telaviv.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/istanbul-night.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Istanbul at night, from the airplane.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/jerusalem-map.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A map of Jerusalem's old city.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-
-<p>
-The travelers were dropped off from the shuttle at around midnight.
-Where the shuttle dropped them off in Jerusalem at midnight- Damascus gate- about 10 minutes away from the hotel.
-Use of global app and phone flashlight enabled them to walk from the Damascus Gate to the hotel in the Old City in the dark (about midnight) with their luggage.
-Nancy's main suitcase was still to come.
-The streets were dark and empty.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/damascus-gate.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Damascus gate.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/hotel-doors.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Hotel doors.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/hotel-interior.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Hotel interior.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-<br>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-15><a href=#2019-09-15>2019-09-15 Sunday</a></h2>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/shops.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Shop along the alleyways in Old City Jerusalem.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-
-<h3>Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
-
-<p>
-Church of the Holy Sepulchre - believed to be the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and tomb and resurrection.
-Affirmed by recent research in the basement.
-Currently occupied by The main denominations sharing property over parts of the church are the Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic, and to a lesser degree the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/sepulchre-exterior.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Holy Sepulchre exterior.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/sepulchre-interior.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Holy Sepulchre interior.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/sepulchre-dome.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Holy Sepulchre dome.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-
-<h3>lunch</h3>
-
-<p>
-Gouged badly, learned to see menu with prices first, Nancy was not feeling too well
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/sunday-lunch.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy enjoys Lunch.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-
-<h3>wailing wall</h3>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/wailing-stands.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Stands to hold prayer material.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/wailing-men.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Wailing wall men's side.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/wailing-special.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Special area which is covered.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/wailing-women.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Wailing wall women's side.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-After viewing the wailing wall, the travelers walked back to the hotel to take a nap.
-Needed to recover after long trip from USA to Israel.
-</p>
-
-<h3>Armenian quarter & St. James' Cathedral</h3>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/armenian-statuary.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Statuary in the church.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/armenian-seminary.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Monastery/seminary in the Armenian quarter
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/genocide-poster.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Reminder of the genocide.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/armenian-patriarchate.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Head of the Armenian apostolic group in Jerusalem.
-<br>
-
-<h3>dinner</h3>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/sunday-dinner.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Dinner.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/shops-closed.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Shops closed at the end of the day.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/hotel-roof-night.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Night view from Hotel rooftop.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-16><a href=#2019-09-16>2019-09-16 Monday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>morning</h3>
-
-<p>
-Monday morning, with help of hotel staff, Nancy's luggage was found and delivered.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/hotel-roof-sunrise.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Sunrise from hotel rooftop.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Dome of the Rock</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers visited the Dome of the Rock.
-Nancy had previously visited in 1969 (50 years prior).
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/dome-1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/dome-2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/dome-3.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-
-<h3>Bethsada pool</h3>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/bethesda-1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/bethesda-2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-
-<h3>rampart wall</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers walked the rampart wall from Jaffa gate to Zion gate.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/rampart-1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/rampart-2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-
-<h3>first meeting with George</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers met with George Hintlian.
-https://openjlem.hypotheses.org/1192
-George showed them St. James' church.
-Nancy shared the family's Armenian prayer with George, who was touched.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/st-james-1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-
-<h3>David's Tower</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers toured David's Tower, where there are 21 layers of history.
-</p>
-
-<h3>CHS</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers returned to CHS and met with George again.
-Ability to see special place in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre along with Canadian officials guided by George.
-Recent research affirms that this place was the place where Jesus’ tomb was.
-A YouTube video on this issue may be found at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uuZ-C7nmj4
-This counters research (Talpoit tomb) which concluded that Jesus’ body and family tomb had been found about three miles away from the CHS.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/CHS-gate.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-The gate to the basement of the CHS.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/CHS-mass.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy watching a private mass on the main floor of the CHS.
-br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/CHS-tour.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-George leads a tour.
-<br>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-17><a href=#2019-09-17>2019-09-17 Tuesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>rampart wall</h3>
-
-Tuesday morning
-
-Jaffa gate to Damascus gate
-
-<h3>St James' church</h3>
-
-look more carefully with George
-
-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uuZ-C7nmj4
-
-<h3>Israeli museum</h3>
-
-dead sea scrolls
-
-<h3>tea with George</h3>
-
-<h3>Armenian cemetery</h3>
-
-<h3>dinner with George</h3>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>depart</h3>
-
-Wednesday morning
-
-meet taxi at christ church
-
-drove to airport seeing divide of Palestine
-
-</body>
-</html>
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-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Jerusalem</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Jerusalem</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-13><a href=#2019-09-13>2019-09-13 Friday</a></h2>
-
-<p>
-Nancy and Jim travel to Tel Aviv.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="airplane.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Jim's plane in SanFrancisco.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="staff.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Turkish Airlines staff in San Francisco.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-Assistance of United staff helped Nancy find how to get to Terminal 5 at O’Hare and reach the plane going to Istanbul.
-On the plane, she had the assistance of a Bosnian couple in knowing how to work the various technology at her seat.
-Had wanted to watch the movie “The Guernsey Literary…” and it was available for free on this flight.
-</p>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-14><a href=#2019-09-14>2019-09-14 Saturday</a></h2>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul-airport.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Terminal in Istanbul.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-In the Istanbul airport, Nancy had the assistance of a couple from Pakistan living in Indiana in knowing how to read the departure board and establish phone and wifi connection in the airport so she could rendezvous with Jim.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="airplane-selfie.jpg">
-  <figcaption>The travelers take a selfie on the airplane from Istanbul to TelAviv.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="istanbul-night.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Istanbul at night, from the airplane.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<p>
-As the travelers were entering Jerusalem, they were almost in an accident when the shuttle bus was squeezed between a bus and a bluff.
-The shuttle bus dropped the travelers off in Jerusalem at midnight- Damascus gate- about 10 minutes away from the hotel.
-The streets were dark and empty.
-Use of global app and phone flashlight enabled them to walk to the hotel in the Old City in the dark with their luggage.
-Nancy’s main suitcase was still to come.
-</p>
-
-<img src="damascus-gate.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Damascus gate.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="hotel-doors.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Hotel doors.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="hotel-interior.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Hotel interior.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem-map.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A map of Jerusalem's old city.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-15><a href=#2019-09-15>2019-09-15 Sunday</a></h2>
-
-<p>
-Not having connected with the contact person, George Hintlian, the travelers explored the Old City on their own.
-Many of the things they saw were seen again in more detail on Monday and Tuesday with George.
-</p>
-
-<img src="shops.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Shop along the alleyways in Old City Jerusalem.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
-
-<p>
-Church of the Holy Sepulchre - believed to be the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and resurrection.
-Currently occupied by several christian groups: Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic, and to a lesser degree the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/de/Plan_of_the_Church_of_the_Holy_Sepulchre_and_adjacent_structures_in_Jerusalem_-_Chrysanthus_of_Bursa_-_1807.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Footprint. Chrysanthus of Bursa [Public domain]</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="sepulchre-exterior.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Holy Sepulchre exterior.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="sepulchre-interior.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Holy Sepulchre interior.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="sepulchre-dome.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Holy Sepulchre dome.
-<br>
-
-<h3>lunch</h3>
-
-<img src="sunday-lunch.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy and Jim enjoyed lunch, but they realized that they were gouged badly when the bill came.
-They learned to look at a menu with prices before ordering.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Wailing Wall</h3>
-
-<img src="wailing-stands.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Stands to hold prayer material.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="wailing-men.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Wailing Wall men's side.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="wailing-special.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Special area which is covered (men's side).
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="wailing-washing.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Handwashing area for use before approaching the wall.</figcaption>
-<figure>
-
-<img src="wailing-women.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Wailing Wall women's side.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="tamia-prayer.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy delivered a prayer from Tamia and left it in the wailing wall.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-After viewing the Wailing Wall, the travelers walked back to the hotel to take a nap.
-Needed to recover after long trip from USA to Israel.
-</p>
-
-<h3>Armenian Quarter & St. James' Cathedral</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="armenian-statuary.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Statuary in the courtyard of St. James' Cathedral.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="armenian-seminary.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Monastery/seminary in the Armenian Quarter
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="genocide-poster.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Reminder of the genocide.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="armenian-patriarchate.jpg">
-  <figccaption>Street sign indicates that the Patriarchate of the Armenian Orthodox Church resides in this Quarter.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>dinner, end of day</h3>
-
-<p>
-The Travelers ate dinner at Bulghourji Restaurant which served Armenian food.
-</p>
-
-<img src="sunday-dinner.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Dinner.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="shops-closed.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Shops closed at the end of the day.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="hotel-roof-night.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Night view from hotel rooftop.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-16><a href=#2019-09-16>2019-09-16 Monday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>morning</h3>
-
-<p>
-Monday morning, with help of hotel staff, Nancy's luggage was found.
-The day included times when the travelers were with George and times when they were on their own.
-</p>
-
-<img src="hotel-roof-sunrise.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Sunrise from hotel rooftop.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Dome of the Rock</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers visited the Dome of the Rock.
-Nancy had previously visited in 1969 (50 years prior).
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="dome-1.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="dome-2.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="dome-3.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Santa Anna Church</h3>
-
-<p>
-Next to Bethesda ruins.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="santa-anna.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Bethesda pool</h3>
-
-<img src="bethesda-1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers walked the rampart wall from Jaffa gate to Zion gate.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="armenian-cemetery.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Armenian cemetery.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="rampart-1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="rampart-2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-
-<h3>David's Tower</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers visited this museum, which describes the 21 layers of history in Jerusalem.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
- <img src="21-layers.jpg">
- <figcaption>21 layers of history at david's tower.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>meet with George at Christ's church café</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers met with <a href=https://openjlem.hypotheses.org/1192>George Hintlian</a>.
-Following are two audio recordings from that meeting.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
- <audio controls="controls" src="audio1.mp3">
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
- <audio controls="controls" src="audio2.mp3">
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-The travelers looked more carefully with George for information about Miriam Torosian (n.e.e. Jerahian).
-They wanted to see if there are records that she was born or married in Jerusalem.
-They found no records.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="miriam.png">
-  <figcaption>Torosian family photo.
-    Left to right, Miram, John, and John's wife Paroos (n.e.e. Takousian).
-    Picture was probably taken in 1912 when John and Paroos were married.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at St. James'</h3>
-
-<p>
-George showed them St. James' Cathedral.
-Nancy shared the family's Armenian table grace with George, who was touched.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
- <img src="st-james-1.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at Gulbenkian Library</h3>
-
-<p>
-Besides exploring our data about Miriam Jerahian, George was also interested in their data about Grandpa’s property in Turkey.
-He read the English and Turkish papers
-</p>
-
-<figure>
- <audio controls="controls" src="audio3.mp3">
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="gulbenkian.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers returned to the CHS with George.
-He included them in showing Canadian officials an area in the basement which had recently been studied by the National Geographic and was not open to the general public.
-Recent research affirms that this was the place of Jesus’ tomb.
-A YouTube video on this issue may be found <a href=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uuZ-C7nmj4>here</a>.
-This counters research (Talpoit tomb) which concluded that Jesus’ body and family tomb had been found about three miles away from the CHS.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
- <audio controls="controls" src="audio4.mp3">
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="CHS-gate.jpg">
-  <figcaption>the gate to the basement of the CHS</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="CHS-george.jpg">
-  <figcaption>George explaining the recent research.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="CHS-research1.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="CHS-research2.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="CHS-dynamics.jpg">
-  <figcaption>George giving details about the dynamics of the various groups occupying the CHS .</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="CHS-ladder.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Note ladder.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>dinner with George</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="dinner-george.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-17><a href=#2019-09-17>2019-09-17 Tuesday</a></h2>
-
-<p>
-Nancy’s luggage was finally delivered to the hotel by staff who had to walk to another hotel outside the wall to get it.
-</p>
-
-<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers took a second walk on the wall.
-This time they walked from the Jaffa gate to the Damascus gate.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="from-wall.jpg">
-  <figcaption>View of Jerusalem from the wall.</h3>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Israeli Museum</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers viewed the dead sea scrolls at the Israeli Museum, which is outside the Old City.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="dead-sea-scroll.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at the Armenian Apostolic Church Office</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="george-nancy-book.jpg">
-  <figcaption>George and Nancy look for information about Miriam Jerahian.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at the Gulbenkian Library</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="walk-to-library.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Walking to the Gulbenkian library in the Armenian Quarter.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at Armenian Cemetery</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="cemetery-selfie.jpg">
-  <figcaption>George,Nancy and Jim standing in the cemetery of the Armenian Quarter in front of a memorial to Armenian soldiers who fought post 1918.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>wrapping up with George</h3>
-
-<p>
-The afternoon before the travelers left Israel for Turkey, George shared that they should not take the original paperwork (English and Turkish) about Yesia’s inherited property to Turkey.
-He offered to keep it for them until he could get it to Jim via a trusted person.
-The travelers followed George’s advice and were glad they did.
-Because in Turkey they had three experiences which could have placed them in a position they did not intend to be in while there.
-First, when they met with the Hrant Dink staff in Istanbul, they wanted to know if Yesia had been a Turkish citizen when he left Turkey in 1900 because they had a law suit against Turkey showing that such citizens may have been entitled to property.
-Second, they had an unexpected interaction with a national Turkish politician in Erzindjan and a semi-expected interaction with a local Turkish official in Develi.
-Both wanted to know about possible property implications of their visit.
-For all three instances they were grateful that they did not have these papers with them.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-They had a second dinner with George during which they had candid discussion of politics in Armenia, Israel and Turkey.
-</p>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>depart</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers met a cab at the Jaffa gate with their luggage and drove to Tel Aviv.
-They drove through sections which showed the barriers between Palestine and Israel with long lines of people waiting to go to work on buses.
-</p>
-
-</body>
-</html>
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-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Kayseri & Develi</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Kayseri & Develi</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-25><a href=#2019-09-25>2019-09-25 Wednesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Traveling Cappadocia to Kayseri</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers drove from Cappadocia to Kayseri.
-It rained hard, revealing that their rental vehicle had bad wipers.
-There wasn't much traffic, but Google routed them strangely including a trip through Kayseri's industrial district.
-</p>
-
-<h3>first night in Kayseri</h3>
-
-<p>
-In Kayseri the travelers stayed in Setenonu 1892 Hotel, a very fancy hotel in the center of the city.
-They had two rooms, with three beds this time.
-Nancy used the very fancy hotel bathroom for her laundry, a humorous juxtaposition.
-After settling in, the travelers had a quick dinner within walking distance.
-The waiter and restaurant owner spoke no english.
-It continued to rain very hard.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/hotel-beds.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-One of the rooms in Setenonu 1892 Hotel.
-[38.716 N, 35.485 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/hotel-laundry.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy does her laundry in the hotel bathroom.
-Note the use of suction cups to attach to the marble walls.
-[38.716 N, 35.485 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-26><a href=#2019-09-26>2019-09-26 Thursday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>traveling Kayseri to Develi</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers enjoyed a wonderful drive over Mt Erciyes from Kayseri to Develi.
-They met their guide (Selim Akdoğan) at the entrance of town.
-</p>
-
-<h3>Armenian vineyards</h3>
-
-<p>
-The traveler's ancestors that lived in Develi had the surname Torosian.
-This corresponds to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taurus_Mountains">Toros mountain range</a>, which pass through Develi.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-The Torosians were, in part, vineyard owners.
-There are no longer vineyards in Develi, but the same valley described in Nancy's notes still has visible terracing from those days.
-The entire area was clearly farmed in the past.
-The guide Selim remembered the time when there were vineyards from his own childhood.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/terracing.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Valley in Develi, showing signs of terracing.
-[38.392 N, 35.502 E] <br>
-
-<h3>old fountain</h3>
-
-<p>
-Nancy's notes contained references of a fountain, where spring water would emerge with great force.
-This old fountain has been converted into a swimming pool.
-There are many springs around Develi, which lead to a "ground irrigated" effect and relatively fertile soil.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/pool.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-old fountain, now a swimming pool.
-[38.387 n, 35.501 e] <br>
-
-<h3>ruins of St. Trovos</h3>
-
-<p>
-The guide Selim showed the travelers where the ruins of St. Trovos were.
-This is likely where the Torosians would have attended church.
-It has now been made into a childrens playground, with only one wall of the church still standing.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/trovos.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Ruined wall of St. Trovos church.
-Left to right: unknown local man, Selim, Nancy, Jim.
-[38.387 N, 35.496 E] <br>
-
-<h3>municipality office</h3>
-
-<p>
-Selim was kind enough to introduce the travelers to the municipality officials at the head office of Develi.
-These are the locally elected government officials.
-The travelers were introduced to the acting mayor, and the <a href="https://www.develi.bel.tr/birimlerimiz/kultur-ve-sosyal-isler-mudurlugu">acting director of culture and social affairs</a>.
-These officials were very accommodating, seeing that all needs were taken care of.
-They even vacuum packed the goat cheese (Tulum) that the travelers were still carrying from Kemeryaka.
-The culture and social affairs director (Ali Orhan), stayed with the travelers for the remainder of their visit.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-All enjoyed a discussion of Torosian property and Develi history.
-A map showing the various districts of Develi hung on the wall.
-The Torosian family lived in the Fenesse district.
-The Everek district was close by, but separated by Turkish occupied land.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/districts.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Districts of Develi. <br>
-
-<h3>Fenesse</h3>
-
-NO ACTUALLY EVEREK
-
-<p>
-After meeting the municpality officials, the travlers, guide Selim, and cultural affairs director Ali headed out to take a walking tour of Fenesse.
-This is the district where the Torosians lived.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/fenesse-sign.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A sign points the way to Fenesse.
-[38.391 N, 35.492 E] <br>
-
-<p>
-A school near the town center was serving a special "noah soup", celebrating the date when the biblical arc made ground.
-Nancy was of great interest to the local students as a professor from America.
-All gathered around to try out their ability to speak english.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/soup.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Travelers enjoy "noah soup".
-Foreground left to right, acting mayor, local government man, Ali, Selim, Jim.
-Note very large soup bowl on table.
-[38.387 N, 35.492 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/nancy-students.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Students gather around Nancy.
-All are interested to hear and speak English.
-Students asked if Americans learn about Turkey.
-[38.387 N, 35.492 E] <br>
-
-<p>
-Along the walking tour of Fenesse, the travelers meet a local family making grape syrup on the street.
-They share their creation, which tasted very sweet with unusual undertones.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/honey1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<img src="kayseri-develi/honey2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<img src="kayseri-develi/honey3.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Locals reduce grapes into a rich honey.
-[38.383 N, 35.491 E] <br>
-
-<p>
-They visited many old buildings.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/fenesse-building.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Typical old building in Fenesse.
-Many of these buildings were around even when Armenians occupied this area.
-[38.383 N, 35.490 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<p>
-There were also local people knocking down walnuts from trees.
-The freshly harvested walnuts had a strong flavor.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/walnuts.gif"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Locals use a long stick to harvest from a walnut tree. <br>
-
-<h3>lunch</h3>
-
-<h3>Everek</h3>
-
-old church now mosque
-
-house owned by Bedrosians
-
-<h3>upper Develi</h3>
-
-tomb of ???
-
-second oldest mosque
-
-cross mountain
-
-turkish millitary memorials
-
-<h3>saying goodbye</h3>
-
-turkish coffee
-
-returned cheese
-
-exchanged contact information
-
-<h3>back to Kayseri, dinner</h3>
-
-sampled types of Manti
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-27><a href=#2019-09-27>2019-09-27 Friday</a></h2>
-
-Casual day exploring Kayseri.
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-28><a href=#2019-09-28>2019-09-28 Saturday</a></h2>
-
-Nancy and Blaise back to USA.
-
-James to Istanbul until Monday.
-
-</body>
-</html>
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--- a/source/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/index.html
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@@ -1,469 +0,0 @@
-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Kayseri & Develi</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Kayseri & Develi</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-25><a href=#2019-09-25>2019-09-25 Wednesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Traveling Cappadocia to Kayseri</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers drove from Cappadocia to Kayseri.
-It rained hard, revealing that their rental vehicle had bad wipers.
-There wasn't much traffic, but Google routed them strangely including a trip through Kayseri's industrial district.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-map.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Map of Kayseri.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>first night in Kayseri</h3>
-
-<p>
-In Kayseri the travelers stayed in Setenonu 1892 Hotel, a very fancy hotel in the center of the city.
-They had two rooms, with three beds this time.
-Nancy used the very fancy hotel bathroom for her laundry, a humorous juxtaposition.
-After settling in, the travelers had a quick dinner within walking distance.
-The waiter and restaurant owner spoke no english.
-It continued to rain very hard.
-</p>
-
-<img src="hotel-beds.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-One of the rooms in Setenonu 1892 Hotel.
-[38.716 N, 35.485 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="hotel-laundry.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy does her laundry in the hotel bathroom.
-Note the use of suction cups to attach to the marble walls.
-[38.716 N, 35.485 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-26><a href=#2019-09-26>2019-09-26 Thursday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>traveling Kayseri to Develi</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers enjoyed a wonderful drive over Mt Erciyes from Kayseri to Develi.
-One of the small pieces of information remembered by Nancy is that, although the family lived closer to Kayseri, they would prefer to travel to Istanbul because the way to Kayseri was made so difficult by the mountain.
-Although modern roads make the way easy, it was clear to the travelers why it would be difficult to travel over Mt. Erciyes in those times.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-They met their guide (Selim Akdoğan) at the entrance of town.
-Selim proved to be an amazing local guide.
-His business care gives the following credentials and roles:  B.Sc P.D. MBA CCol ASDC Economist, Scientist, Journalist, Historian, Politician, Senior Executive.
-Selim has a clear love for natural life & enjoys exchanging views with everyone.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="develi-map.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Map of Develi.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>the Torosian family</h3>
-
-<p>
-The traveler's ancestors had the surname Torosian.
-This corresponds to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taurus_Mountains">Toros Mountain Range</a>, which passes through Develi.
-The Torosians lived in an Armenian village called Fenesse next to a Turkish village Develi.
-Currently, the village of Fenesse is simply a district of Develi, and no Armenians reside in the area.
-The travelers searched modern Develi for evidence of the Torosian family.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-This photo of Yesia was taken between 1900 when he immigrated to the US and 1908 when he was married.
-As of 1933, Yesia and his wife petitioned Turkish authorities (via the US Department of State) for compensation for the loss of family real estate and properties.
-Yesia claimed that his uncle, Sarkis Effendi Yanuk Garabed Torosian, had bequeathed a home and vineyards to him which were described in detail.
-The claim was denied but Jim and Nancy had the documents with the description of the properties.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="Yesia.png">
-  <figcaption>Photograph of Yesia Torosian.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Fenesse</h3>
-
-<p>
-The Torosians were, in part, vineyard owners.
-There are no longer vineyards in Develi, but the same valley described in Nancy's notes still has visible terracing from those days.
-The entire area was clearly cultivated in the past.
-The guide Selim remembered the time when there were vineyards from his own childhood.
-</p>
-
-<img src="terracing.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Valley in Develi, showing signs of terracing.
-[38.392 N, 35.502 E] <br>
-
-<p>
-Nancy's notes contained references of a fountain in Fenesse, where spring water would emerge with great force.
-This old fountain has been converted into a swimming pool.
-There are many springs around Develi, which lead to a "ground irrigated" effect and relatively fertile soil.
-</p>
-
-<img src="pool.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-old fountain, now a swimming pool.
-[38.387 n, 35.501 e] <br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="pool-tile.jpg">
-  <figcaption>detail of swimming pool, showing tilework</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-The guide Selim showed the travelers where the ruins of St. Toros were.
-This was the main Armenian church in Fenesse.
-This is likely where the Torosians would have attended church.
-It has now been made into a childrens playground, with only one wall of the church still standing.
-</p>
-
-<img src="trovos.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Ruined wall of St. Toros church.
-Left to right: unknown local man, Selim, Nancy, Jim.
-[38.387 N, 35.496 E] <br>
-
-<h3>municipality office</h3>
-
-<p>
-Selim was kind enough to introduce the travelers to the municipality officials at the head office of Develi.
-These are the locally elected government officials.
-The travelers were introduced to the acting mayor, and the <a href="https://www.develi.bel.tr/birimlerimiz/kultur-ve-sosyal-isler-mudurlugu">acting director of culture and social affairs</a>.
-These officials were very accommodating, seeing that all needs were taken care of.
-They even vacuum packed the goat cheese (Tulum) that the travelers were still carrying from Kemeryaka.
-The culture and social affairs director (Ali Orhan), stayed with the travelers for the remainder of their visit.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-All enjoyed a discussion of Torosian property and Develi history.
-A map showing the various districts of Develi hung on the wall.
-The Torosian family lived in the Fenesse district.
-The Everek district was close by, but separated by Turkish occupied land.
-</p>
-
-<img src="districts.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Districts of Develi. <br>
-
-<h3>old Develi</h3>
-
-<p>
-After meeting the municpality officials, the travlers, guide Selim, and cultural affairs director Ali headed out to take a walking tour of Develi.
-</p>
-
-<img src="fenesse-sign.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A sign points the way to Fenesse.
-[38.391 N, 35.492 E] <br>
-
-<p>
-A school near the town center was serving a special "Noah soup", celebrating the date when the Biblical ark made ground.
-Nancy was of great interest to the local students as a professor from America.
-All gathered around to try out their ability to speak english.
-</p>
-
-<img src="soup.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Travelers enjoy "Noah soup".
-Foreground left to right, acting mayor, local government man, Ali, Selim, Jim.
-Note very large soup bowl on table.
-[38.387 N, 35.492 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="noah-soup.jpg">
-  <figcaption>closeup of noah soup</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="nancy-students.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Students gather around Nancy.
-All are interested to hear and speak English.
-Students asked if Americans learn about Turkey.
-[38.387 N, 35.492 E] <br>
-
-<p>
-Along the walking tour of Fenesse, the travelers meet a local family making grape honey on the street.
-They share their creation, which tasted very sweet with unusual undertones.
-</p>
-
-<img src="honey1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<img src="honey2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<img src="honey3.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Locals reduce grapes into a rich honey.
-[38.383 N, 35.491 E] <br>
-
-<p>
-They visited many old buildings.
-</p>
-
-<img src="fenesse-building.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Typical old building in old Develi.
-Many of these buildings were around even when Armenians occupied this area.
-[38.383 N, 35.490 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<p>
-There were also local people knocking down walnuts from trees.
-The freshly harvested walnuts had a strong flavor.
-</p>
-
-<img src="walnuts.gif"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Locals use a long stick to harvest from a walnut tree. <br>
-
-</h3>Everek Church<h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers saw an old Armenian church in Everek district.
-The building is still standing, but is now being used as a mosque.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="mosque-interior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>lunch</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers were treated to lunch by the standing mayor and cultural official.
-They ate at an outdoor restaurant in the town center, Elbiz restaurant.
-The cuisine was Turkish pizza.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="elbiz.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Natural spring in the center of Elbiz park.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Bedrosian home</h3>
-
-<p>
-After lunch, the travelers visited the home previously owned by the Bedrosian family, the last Armenian family to occupy Develi.
-This home was in the Everek district.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="bedrosian-key.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Key to Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="bedrosian-arch.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Archway in Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="bedrosian-baby.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Baby carriage left in Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>upper Develi</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers visited upper Develi, the old town that looks over the valley where the modern city lies.
-This old town has suffered through a few earthquakes, but original buildings do still stand.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-The travelers saw a very old mosque in the mountains above Develi.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="tomb-exterior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Mosque exterior.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="tomb.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-Next, the travelers visited the second oldest mosque in Develi, located in upper Develi.
-They enjoyed a sweet traditional drink, stored in large stone containers within the mosque.
-This mosque was gifted to the city by a very wealthy woman.
-A stone column in the front of the mosque freely rotates, its joint captured but not pinned by the stone above.
-This is an "earthquake alert system"; any small motion of the stone caused by an earthquake would cause the column to either stop freely rotating or fall out.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="mosque-develi.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="rotating-column.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Freely rotating column.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="women-wall.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Wall where women may watch the prayer.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-The travelers went up to the ridge where several Turkish millitary memorials were erected.
-The overlook provided remarkable views of the mountains and valley.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="nancy-develi.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Nancy poses in front of Develi.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="selfie.JPG">
-  <figcaption>All pose for a selfie with the view in the background.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>back to Kayseri, dinner</h3>
-
-<p>
-After another very busy day, the travelers were happy to return to Kayseri.
-For dinner they tried a restaurant that specializes in manti, a favorite family food.
-Kayseri is said to be the birthplace of mainti, and there are many varieties served there.
-Nancy, Jim, and Blaise were able to each try a different variety of manti for dinner.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="manti1.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Blaise's manti.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="manti2.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Nancy's manti.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="manti3.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Jim's manti.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-27><a href=#2019-09-27>2019-09-27 Friday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Armenian Apostolic Church</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers were able to visit a local Armenian Apostolic Church.
-This may be the only Armenian church in the wider area of Kayseri / Develi.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-church-exterior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Exterior of Armenian Apostolic Church.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-church-interior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Interior of Armenian Apostolic Church.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-church-dome.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Interior of Armenian Apostolic Church, dome detail.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>casual day</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers split up and enjoyed a casual day of rest in Kayseri.
-Nancy and Blaise went to work at on organizing notes at a local Starbucks.
-Jim had fun exploring the city and enjoying amenities at a fancy hotel nearby.
-The travelers enjoyed the "sights and sounds" of everyday life in Kayseri.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="public-transportation.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Kayseri public transportation was modern and efficient.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-mall.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Very fancy local mall.
-  Note security guard; security was clearly a big deal in Kayseri.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-pool.jpg">
-  <figcaption>High-rise indoor pool enjoyed by Jim.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="highrise.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Kayseri glitzy highrise. Lighting cycled through several animations.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-28><a href=#2019-09-28>2019-09-28 Saturday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>travel home</h3>
-
-<p>
-All three of the travelers left Kayseri- Nancy and Blaise for the USA and Jim for a little more time in Istanbul.
-After dropping off the rented car, they began the journey in the Kayseri airport
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-airport.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Kayseri airport.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="bosphorus.jpg">
-  <figcaption>View of the Bosphorus as Blaise flew into Istanbul.
-  A fitting last look at Turkey.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-In Istanbul Blaise and Nancy knew that a delay (2 hours) of the flight to Chicago would pose problems in getting to our respective final destinations.
-The Turkish Air folks arranged for Blaise to have a stand by status with an Am Airlines flight but he still needed to check with their office in Chicago.
-Nancy did not have any options since the flight to Cedar Rapids was the last one that night.
-Once Blaise and Nancy parted in Chicago, Nancy did what she could to make my flight to Cedar Rapids.
-Had to go through security and get to the gate.
-Poor signage confused her and she went to the gate terminal (1) rather than the security terminal (2) first.
-While waiting in the security line she met a kind woman who was in the same boat.
-When they both discovered that they could not get to Cedar Rapids that night, she (Jeanette Harrington) offered to let Nancy  share her hotel room.
-She did so and Nancy was able to shower and have 3 hours of sleep before returning to O’Hare for the final flight home.
-</p>
-
-</body>
-</html>
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