From 6fa3d6d03c4f0731cf388166bacebbf2e062fd1c Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Blaise Thompson Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 16:42:51 -0500 Subject: refactor with actual building --- .../armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html | 455 +++++++++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 455 insertions(+) create mode 100644 memories/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html (limited to 'memories/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html') diff --git a/memories/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html b/memories/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..85db243 --- /dev/null +++ b/memories/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html @@ -0,0 +1,455 @@ + + + + + + Erzincan & Kemah + + + + +

Erzincan & Kemah

+ +Part of the Armenian heritage trip memory. + +
+ +

note: historical vs modern Erzincan

+ +

+Erzindjan is now north of the location as of 1907. +When Azniv was born, Erzindjan and the surrounding area was part of Armenia. +It was made part of Turkey in 1920 after the conclusion of WW1. +Besides the genocide, Erzindjan is earthquake prone. +In 1254 William Rubruck said more than 10,000 people were killed by an earthquake. +In 1939 there was another earthquake which led to the death of 32,962. +The old site was entirely abandoned and the town was relocated to the north. +

+ +

note: family connection with Erzindjan

+ +

+The following photo was taken​ in 1906,​ four years after Stepan and his family arrived in the US. +Standing from left to right in the back row are: Azniv/Agnes Torosian (born Shakargian, who is Nancy and Jim’s maternal grandmother)​, her brother Arshag and his wife, Nartouhi Pojojian (alternates Nartoo, Pazozian, Posozian). +The adults sitting from left to right in the front row are Nancy and Jim’s great-grandmother, Lucien Shakargian (born Donegian), and great-grandfather, Stepan Shakargian. +The family believes two of the children are Arshag's children but the third child may be one of the sister's, Eva Kapigian (born Shakargian) children. +The travelers think Azniv was born in Erzindjan proper rather than adjacent villages because: 1) they used the Turkish bath house which was a Roman ruin, 2) they had a shop where folks bought things- perhaps sugar, candy, coffee, 3) Azniv went to a school and the city had a school for girls (Chrisdinian). +

+ +
+ +
Shakargian family photo.
+
+ +
+

2019-09-22 Sunday

+ +

arrival

+ +

+The travelers took a 1.5 hour flight from Istanbul to Erzincan, arriving around 15:00. +Erzincan is a medium sized city, with an official population roughly 37,000. +The true population is twice that, with many of the undocumented being Roma. +The airport is quite modern and nice, funded extensively by Russians. +

+ + +Erzincan airport.
+ +

+The city of Erzincan has been almost entirely rebuilt since the 1939 earthquake. +Unlike other cities visited by the travelers, the roads are clearly planned and the buildings seem quite modern. +

+ +

+The travelers stayed at Hayat Home Suite in the center of town. +The hotel was quite nice, more like an apartment than a typical hotel room. +There were two small bedrooms, a bathroom including washing machine, kitchen complete with stove, and a very large living and dining room. +Jim and Nancy took the bedrooms, while Blaise slept on the living room couch. +Total cost of hotel was 480 TL for two nights. +

+ + +Living and dining room of Erzincan hotel.
+ +

dinner

+ +

+The travelers met their guide (Ahmet Cetin) and his driver. +The driver spoke only Turkish and was not very communicative for the entire trip. +All five enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant. +Credit cards were a problem, but the travelers were able to withdraw cash from nearby ATMs. +After dinner, all five visited a local bar to plan the trip. +At the bar, Nancy enjoyed drinking special Erzincan carbonated lemon drink (Kizilay). +

+ +

Tevhit Karakaya

+ +

+On the flight from Istanbul to Erzincan Nancy was placed in first class for some reason. +Nancy sat next to a local politician and business man Tevhit Karakaya. +Tehvit was interested in Nancy's historic photos of Erzincan. +Tevhit did not speak English, but a friend of his translated on the plane. +

+ +

+Tevhit invited the travelers to stop by his hotel to obtain a book of historic Erzincan photos which he himself had compiled. +Once Ahmed heard of the Nancy's interactions with Tevhit, Ahmet called Tevhit and all were invited to meet Tevhit at his hotel. +

+ +

+While at the hotel, Tevhit and his associates asked Nancy and Jim for more information regarding their Erzincan relatives. +All enjoyed tea and special Erzincan grapes. +The travelers needed to be instructed to eat the grape seeds, and indeed the seeds were easy to eat and even seemed to enhance the grape texture. +The grapes were very sweet and the seeds were not at all bitter. +

+ + +The travelers meet with Tevhit Karakaya (far right). +Picture taken in lobby of Karakaya hotel. +Note grapes held by Nancy.
+ +
+

2019-09-23 Monday

+ +

breakfast

+ +

+At around 09:00, the travelers met with Ahmet and started their day with breakfast at a local restaurant, Siber Bilişim Sistemleri. +It was a typical middle eastern breakfast with a large variety of options. +The travelers enjoyed trying rose petal jam, similar to that made by Azniv Torosian and remembered as part of Nancy and Jim's childhood. +

+ + +Jim and Nancy enjoy breakfast.
+ +

old Erzincan

+ +

+Nancy and Jim's Grandmother (Azniv Torosian, nee Shakargian) was born in old Erzincan. +She left in 1902 with her parents, one brother, and the brother's wife and children. +An additional sister stayed behind as she was already married. +Azniv was roughly 16 years old at the time. +The travelers attempted to visit the place where Azniv and her family had lived. +

+ +

+Nancy's notes contained a picture of old Erzincan (1907) behind which a particular view of the mountain range could be seen. +This was Mount Kazen Kaya. +It was also known that old Erzincan was next to the Euphrates river. +Since the earthquake and rebuilding, there are almost no remaining structures or clues about the position of old Erzincan. +Still, the travelers were able to find the mountain view as seen in the old pictures, and also where the Euphrates currently flows. +

+ +
+ +
Old Erzincan.
+
+ + +Nancy and Jim pose in front of the mountain range from Nancy's notes. +Immediately behind the photographer is the Euphrates river. +[39.691N, 39.504E]
+
+ + +Detail of foothills adjacent to Mount Kazen Kaya.
+ +

cemetery

+ +

+Travelers attempted to see the ruins of an Armenian cemetery, but were taken to a muslim cemetery instead. +Saw tomb of a female Turkish soldier that died as a suicide bomber. +

+ + +Tomb of a Turkish soldier. +[39.717N,39.498E]
+ +

drive to Kemah

+ +

+The travelers headed to Kemah, which is about 40 miles from Erzincan by car. +Along the way many military instillations were seen. +The car passed through a check point, which our guide was able to talk his way through without difficulty. +The Turkish government has military in this region due to fears of Kurdish and Syrian terrorist attacks from the south. +

+ +

+Along the drive, the travelers stopped at Kemah gorge, which is now used as a point of recreation (base jumping, climbing etc.) +There is a turkish monument at this place which memorializes a truckload of soldiers that died here in a car accident on the bridge. +This was undoubtedly one of the many places between Erzincan and Kemah where 25,000 Armenians were thrown into the Euphrates river (1915). +This gorge is 13 km from the town of Kemah. +

+ + +Kemah gorge. +[39.653N, 39.360E]
+ +

Kemah

+ +

+Nancy and Jim's Great Grandmother, Azniv's mother, Lucien Donegian is believed by the travelers to have grown up in the Kemah area. +Azniv's father, Stephan Shekargian, was living in Erzincan and traveled two days by horse to marry Lucien. +Azniv described trips to visit Lucien's family, where wonderful stones sparkled in the sun. +It's likely true that Lucien was from one of the several Kemah-associated villages. +

+ +

+Arriving in Kemah, the travelers found the location of another photograph from Nancy's notes: the Kemah Fort. +They were able to find the exact point where the photograph was taken. +

+ + + + +Nancy and Jim pose in front of Kemah Fort. +[39.603N, 39.0372E]
+ +

+The Fort was built into a mountain which gives a good view of modern Kemah. +There were also caves that had been fortified, and an ongoing archaeological excavation. +

+ + +Town of Kemah as seen from Kemah Fort. [39.604N, 39.035E]
+ +

+Beside Kemah, on the other side of the Euphrates river, is a large ridge which is currently occupied by a Turkish millitary outpost. +The travelers believe that this is the famous ridge from which 25,000 Armenians were thrown to their death between June 10 through 14, 1915. +Oral history describes the Euphrates filled with bodies and red with blood. +Before that time, many Armenians lived peacefully in this area. +In 2019 the city of Kemah contains just 2000 people, all Turkish. +

+ + +Kemah ridge as seen from Kemah Fort. [39.604N, 39.036E]
+ +

+After visiting Kemah Fort, the travelers spent some time in the Kemah city center. +Once Ahmet suggested tea, it was remarkable how quickly the young friend was able to procure it. +Kemah seems like a nice city, with local cats, dogs, and chickens. +The town is clean and bustling with activity. +

+ +

lunch

+ +

+The travelers had lunch at a rustic outdoor restaurant called Kemah Alabalık Tesisleri. +Specialty was trout, and delicious Shepherd's Salad. +The lunch featured special salt mined near Kemah. +There was a pomegranate sauce that was excellent on the salad: nar ekşisi kalori. +

+ + +Travelers enjoying lunch. [39.614N, 39.038E]
+ +

Kemeryaka

+ +

+The travelers were interested in trying to find the exact village where Lucien Donegian grew up. +In pursuit of this, Ahmet took them to the local village of Kemeryaka. +There they found many village men doing construction working together to build a new brick house in the center of town. +All shared tea and great conversation as translated by Ahmet. +In conversation, they recommended that the travelers visit Morik. +The crucial piece of information in recommending Morik was Nancy's remembering that Azniv had said the place where her mother grew up had a storage area where many (including Kurds) stored their freshly caught meat. +

+ + +Travelers meet with men of Kemeryaka. [39.550N, 39.068E]
+ +

stone khachkar

+ +

+It seems that local Turkish people believe that Armenians were some kind of treasure keepers, rich magical people of old. +The people of Kemeryaka seem excited to show the travelers some local "mythical" signs of historic Armenian presence. +One of the village elders jokes that when the travelers find the Armenian treasure they can split it "50/50". +There are interesting parallels between stereotypes about Armenians and those about Jews. +

+ +

+Joined by several teenage boys from Kemeryaka, the travelers drove to a place where khachkars (crosses) had been carved into the stone by previous Armenian dwellers. +The valley that they visited was truly beautiful, and it was powerful to see sure signs of Armenian presence. +One of the two khachkars had recently been destroyed by other treasure seekers. +The travelers theorize that these khachkars were used as road markers for an old mountain pass. +

+ + +Khachkar carved into stone. [39.546N,39.0648E]
+
+ + +Travelers discuss khachkares. +Note two other khachkars on the right hand side of the photo. +[39.544N, 39.063E]
+
+ + +Second khachkar, destroyed. +[39.544N, 39.065E]
+
+ + +Second khachkar, detail.Note crosses above, writing below, and star or flower. +[39.544N, 39.065E]
+
+ + +Mountains where khachkars were carved. +[39.548N, 39.0648E]
+ +

Morik

+ +

+As mentioned earlier, one unique feature of Lucien's village was their unique storage facilities for meat and cheese. +These facilities were used by many local villages and nomadic Kurds as they were quite valuable. +When the travelers mentioned this to the men of Kemeryaka, those men instantly agreed that the village in question was likely Morik. +Morik's old name was Ayranpınar. +

+ +

+On the way to Morik, the travelers dropped off the teenage boys from Kemeryaka and picked up an adult man Mehmet who seemed to be a local leader. +Mehmet sat on Ahmet's lap in the front seat for the trip between villages. +As the travelers arrived, the way into the village was blocked by cows. +The village director's son was moving them through the main street. +They drove to the village director's (Umit) home. +All enjoyed an active conversation sharing the reason for visiting and the history of Lucien Donegian. +

+ + +Cows on the way into Morik. +[39.634N, 38.998E]
+
+ + +Conversation on the deck of Umit, Morik's appointed director, home. +Left to right pictured Ahmet, Umit, Mehmet. +[39.634N, 38.998E]
+
+ + +Son of Umit (right), and his son grandson of Umit (left) during the conversation. +Grandson enjoying fresh tomato. +[39.634N, 38.998E]
+ +

+From Umit's home all rode or hiked up to the storage cave. +Amhed's car couldn't make it all the way up because the mountain became too steep. +Umit shared that the cave is special because the mountain makes ice there all year round. +Currently it is mainly used for goat cheese (tulum), which develops in the cave for six months. +There are currently 40 tons of cheese inside. +Mehmet himself was storing cheese in the cave, despite the fact that he is from a different village. +

+ + +Jim and Mehmet riding a tractor up the mountain to visit the ice cave. +[39.631N, 38.997E]
+
+ + +Nancy, Ahmet, and Umit visit the ice cave. +[39.631N, 38.996E]
+
+ + +Umit showing off the key to the ice cave. +[39.631N, 38.996E]
+ +

+Since the ice cave was higher up on the mountain, there was an excellent view of Morik and surroundings. +

+ + +View of Morik from near the ice cave. +[39.632N, 38.997E]
+
+ + +Nancy with Morik in the background. +[39.631N, 38.997E]
+ +

return to Erzincan

+ +

+The travelers went first to Kemeryaka to drop off Mehmet. +From Mehmet they bought a large amount of local goat cheese (tulum), totaling 630 TL. +Most of this was given to Ahmet and the driver, as there was way too much to take home. +

+ +

+After all this the travelers returned to their hotel in Erzincan and slept well. +

+ +
+

2019-09-24 Tuesday

+ +

Euphrates

+ +

+Tuesday morning Nancy placed her feet in the Euphrates river. +The place she chose was not far from the 1907 location of Erzincan. +After this, and breakfast, the travelers set on their way to Cappadocia. +

+ + +View of the Euphrates as it was when Nancy placed her feet. +[39.701N, 39.519E]
+ + + -- cgit v1.2.3