From a0fece0d455705bd8f3dc2aa484ca4ae12c42c3b Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 12:00:08 -0600
Subject: 2019-11-30 12:00

---
 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html       | 129 ++++++++++++++-------
 .../armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/21-layers.jpg | Bin 0 -> 2286683 bytes
 .../jerusalem/george-nancy-book.jpg                | Bin 0 -> 2931057 bytes
 .../jerusalem/jerusalem-map.jpg                    | Bin 3963780 -> 3807775 bytes
 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/miriam.png | Bin 0 -> 338711 bytes
 .../jerusalem/tamia-prayer.jpg                     | Bin 0 -> 5449670 bytes
 public/style.css                                   |  12 ++
 7 files changed, 97 insertions(+), 44 deletions(-)
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/21-layers.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/george-nancy-book.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/miriam.png
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/tamia-prayer.jpg

diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html
index ef6ffbc..b8055c1 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html
@@ -12,6 +12,8 @@
 
 Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
 
+<hr>
+
 <p>
 Nancy and Jim travel to Tel Aviv.
 </p>
@@ -20,55 +22,49 @@ Nancy and Jim travel to Tel Aviv.
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Jim's plane in SanFrancisco.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/staff.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
-Turkish Airlines staff in SanFransisco.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+Turkish Airlines staff in SanFransisco.<br>
 <br>
 
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-14><a href=#2019-09-14>2019-09-14 Saturday</a></h2>
 
 <p>
-Arrive Istanbul, fly to Telaviv.
-Arrive Telaviv, shuttle to Jerusalem.
+Arrive Istanbul, fly to TelAviv.
+Arrive TelAviv, shuttle to Jerusalem.
+The travelers avoided an accident when the shuttle bus was squeezed between a bluff and another bus.
 </p>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/istanbul-airport.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Terminal in Istanbul.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/airplane-selfie.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
-The travelers take a selfie on the airplane from Istanbul to Telaviv.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+The travelers take a selfie on the airplane from Istanbul to TelAviv.
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/istanbul-night.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Istanbul at night, from the airplane.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
 <br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/jerusalem-map.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A map of Jerusalem's old city.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 
 <p>
 The travelers were dropped off from the shuttle at around midnight.
-Where the shuttle dropped them off in Jerusalem at midnight- Damascus gate- about 10 minutes away from the hotel.
-Use of global app and phone flashlight enabled them to walk from the Damascus Gate to the hotel in the Old City in the dark (about midnight) with their luggage.
+Where the shuttle dropped them off in Jerusalem- Damascus gate- about 10 minutes away from the hotel.
+Use of global app and phone flashlight enabled them to walk from the Damascus Gate to the hotel in the Old City in the dark with their luggage.
 Nancy's main suitcase was still to come.
 The streets were dark and empty.
 </p>
@@ -77,71 +73,82 @@ The streets were dark and empty.
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Damascus gate.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/hotel-doors.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Hotel doors.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/hotel-interior.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Hotel interior.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="jerusalem/jerusalem-map.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+A map of Jerusalem's old city.
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-15><a href=#2019-09-15>2019-09-15 Sunday</a></h2>
 
+<p>
+The travelers spent Sunday scouting the Old City.
+</p>
+
 <img src="jerusalem/shops.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Shop along the alleyways in Old City Jerusalem.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 
 <h3>Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
 
 <p>
 Church of the Holy Sepulchre - believed to be the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and tomb and resurrection.
 Affirmed by recent research in the basement.
-Currently occupied by The main denominations sharing property over parts of the church are the Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic, and to a lesser degree the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox.
+Currently occupied by the main denominations sharing property over parts of the church are the Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic, and to a lesser degree the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox.
 </p>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/sepulchre-exterior.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Holy Sepulchre exterior.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/sepulchre-interior.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Holy Sepulchre interior.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/sepulchre-dome.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Holy Sepulchre dome.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 
 <h3>lunch</h3>
 
 <p>
-Gouged badly, learned to see menu with prices first, Nancy was not feeling too well
+Gouged badly, learned to see menu with prices first, Nancy was not feeling too well.
 </p>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/sunday-lunch.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Nancy enjoys Lunch.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 
 <h3>wailing wall</h3>
 
@@ -162,7 +169,7 @@ Wailing wall men's side.
 <img src="jerusalem/wailing-special.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
-Special area which is covered.
+Special area which is covered (men's side).
 <br>
 <br>
 
@@ -171,6 +178,13 @@ Special area which is covered.
      width="100%">
 Wailing wall women's side.
 <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="jerusalem/tamia-prayer.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy delivered a prayer from Tamia and left it in the wailing wall.
+<br>
 
 <p>
 After viewing the wailing wall, the travelers walked back to the hotel to take a nap.
@@ -281,7 +295,7 @@ Nancy had previously visited in 1969 (50 years prior).
      width="100%">
 <br>
 
-<h3>rampart wall</h3>
+<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
 
 <p>
 The travelers walked the rampart wall from Jaffa gate to Zion gate.
@@ -301,16 +315,13 @@ The travelers walked the rampart wall from Jaffa gate to Zion gate.
 <h3>first meeting with George</h3>
 
 <p>
-The travelers met with George Hintlian.
-https://openjlem.hypotheses.org/1192
-George showed them St. James' church.
-Nancy shared the family's Armenian prayer with George, who was touched.
+The travelers met with <a href=https://openjlem.hypotheses.org/1192>George Hintlian</a>.
+Late morning coffee shop.
+Following are two audio recordings from that meeting.
 </p>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/st-james-1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
+TODO: audio 1
+TODO: audio 2
 
 <h3>David's Tower</h3>
 
@@ -318,6 +329,22 @@ Nancy shared the family's Armenian prayer with George, who was touched.
 The travelers toured David's Tower, where there are 21 layers of history.
 </p>
 
+<figure>
+ <img src="jerusalem/21-layers.jpg">
+ <figcaption>21 layers of history at David's tower.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>return to St. James'</h3>
+
+<p>
+George showed them St. James' church.
+Nancy shared the family's Armenian table grace with George, who was touched.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="jerusalem/st-james-1.jpg">
+</figure>
+
 <h3>CHS</h3>
 
 <p>
@@ -351,17 +378,31 @@ George leads a tour.
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-17><a href=#2019-09-17>2019-09-17 Tuesday</a></h2>
 
-<h3>rampart wall</h3>
-
-Tuesday morning
+<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
 
-Jaffa gate to Damascus gate
+<p>
+The travelers walked the wall Jaffa Gate to Damascus Gate.
+</p>
 
-<h3>St James' church</h3>
+<h3>Armenian apostolic church office</h3>
 
-look more carefully with George
+<p>
+The travelers looked more carefully with George for information about Miriam Torosian (n.e.e. Jerahian).
+They want to see if there are records that she was born or married in Jerusalem.
+They found no records.
+</p>
 
-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uuZ-C7nmj4
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/miriam.png">
+  <figcaption>Torosian family photo.
+    Left to right, Miram, John, and John's wife Paroos (n.e.e. Takousian).
+    Picture was probably taken in 1912 when John and Paroos were married.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/george-nancy-book.jpg">
+  <figcaption>George and Nancy look for information about Miriam Jarahian.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <h3>Israeli museum</h3>
 
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/21-layers.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/21-layers.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eda012a
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/george-nancy-book.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/george-nancy-book.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..95b2955
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/jerusalem-map.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/jerusalem-map.jpg
index e68ee2b..9399e01 100644
Binary files a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/jerusalem-map.jpg and b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/jerusalem-map.jpg differ
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/miriam.png b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/miriam.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e1b56ae
Binary files /dev/null and b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/miriam.png differ
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/tamia-prayer.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/tamia-prayer.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6e8d2cf
Binary files /dev/null and b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/tamia-prayer.jpg differ
diff --git a/public/style.css b/public/style.css
index c0fb979..3876837 100644
--- a/public/style.css
+++ b/public/style.css
@@ -30,3 +30,15 @@ th, td {
   margin-right: auto;
   width: 50%;
 }
+
+figure {
+  float: right;
+  width: 100%;
+  margin: 0px auto;
+  margin-top: 1em;
+  margin-bottom: 1em;
+}
+
+img {
+  width: 100%;
+}
-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From e687b8985aa87cac82c55e0d32be354caee2aa52 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 17:17:07 -0600
Subject: 2019-11-30 17:17

---
 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html       | 318 +++++++++++++--------
 .../jerusalem/CHS-dynamics.jpg                     | Bin 0 -> 200771 bytes
 .../jerusalem/CHS-george.jpg                       | Bin 0 -> 3514557 bytes
 .../jerusalem/CHS-ladder.jpg                       | Bin 0 -> 3365649 bytes
 .../jerusalem/CHS-research1.jpg                    | Bin 0 -> 2883318 bytes
 .../jerusalem/CHS-research2.jpg                    | Bin 0 -> 3890747 bytes
 .../jerusalem/armenian-cemetery.jpg                | Bin 0 -> 620382 bytes
 .../jerusalem/cemetery-selfie.jpg                  | Bin 0 -> 1479929 bytes
 .../jerusalem/dead-sea-scroll.jpg                  | Bin 0 -> 2624947 bytes
 .../jerusalem/dinner-george.jpg                    | Bin 0 -> 3408455 bytes
 .../armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/from-wall.jpg | Bin 0 -> 461523 bytes
 .../jerusalem/gulbenkian.jpg                       | Bin 0 -> 381709 bytes
 .../jerusalem/santa-anna.jpg                       | Bin 0 -> 223945 bytes
 .../jerusalem/wailing-washing.jpg                  | Bin 0 -> 4980393 bytes
 .../jerusalem/walk-to-library.jpg                  | Bin 0 -> 3630280 bytes
 public/style.css                                   |  12 +-
 16 files changed, 215 insertions(+), 115 deletions(-)
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/CHS-dynamics.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/CHS-george.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/CHS-ladder.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/CHS-research1.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/CHS-research2.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/armenian-cemetery.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/cemetery-selfie.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/dead-sea-scroll.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/dinner-george.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/from-wall.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/gulbenkian.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/santa-anna.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/wailing-washing.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/walk-to-library.jpg

diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html
index b8055c1..aa2f8e6 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html
@@ -13,23 +13,27 @@
 Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
 
 <hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-13><a href=#2019-09-13>2019-09-13 Friday</a></h2>
 
 <p>
 Nancy and Jim travel to Tel Aviv.
 </p>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/airplane.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Jim's plane in SanFrancisco.
-<br>
-<br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/airplane.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Jim's plane in SanFrancisco.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/staff.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Turkish Airlines staff in SanFransisco.<br>
-<br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/staff.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Turkish Airlines staff in SanFransisco.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Assistance of United Staff helped Nancy find how to get to Terminal 5 at O’Hare and reach the plane going to Istanbul.
+On the plane, she had the assistance of Bosnian couple in knowing how to work the various technology at her seat.
+Had wanted to watch the movie “The Guernsey Literary…” and it was available for free on this flight.
+</p>
 
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-14><a href=#2019-09-14>2019-09-14 Saturday</a></h2>
@@ -40,19 +44,19 @@ Arrive TelAviv, shuttle to Jerusalem.
 The travelers avoided an accident when the shuttle bus was squeezed between a bluff and another bus.
 </p>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/istanbul-airport.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Terminal in Istanbul.
-<br>
-<br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/istanbul-airport.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Terminal in Istanbul.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/airplane-selfie.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-The travelers take a selfie on the airplane from Istanbul to TelAviv.
-<br>
-<br>
+<p>
+In the Istanbul airport, Nancy had the assistance of a couple from Pakistan living in Indiana in knowing how to read the departure board and establish phone and wifi connection in the airport so she could rendezvous with Jim.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/airplane-selfie.jpg">
+  <figcaption>The travelers take a selfie on the airplane from Istanbul to TelAviv.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/istanbul-night.jpg"
      alt=""
@@ -62,11 +66,11 @@ Istanbul at night, from the airplane.
 <br>
 
 <p>
-The travelers were dropped off from the shuttle at around midnight.
-Where the shuttle dropped them off in Jerusalem- Damascus gate- about 10 minutes away from the hotel.
-Use of global app and phone flashlight enabled them to walk from the Damascus Gate to the hotel in the Old City in the dark with their luggage.
-Nancy's main suitcase was still to come.
+As the travelers were entering Jerusalem, they were almost in an accident when the shuttle bus was squeezed between a bus and a bluff.
+The shuttle bus dropped the travelers off in Jerusalem at midnight- Damascus gate- about 10 minutes away from the hotel.
 The streets were dark and empty.
+Use of global app and phone flashlight enabled them to walk to the hotel in the Old City in the dark with their luggage.
+Nancy’s main suitcase was still to come.
 </p>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/damascus-gate.jpg"
@@ -101,7 +105,8 @@ A map of Jerusalem's old city.
 <h2 id=2019-09-15><a href=#2019-09-15>2019-09-15 Sunday</a></h2>
 
 <p>
-The travelers spent Sunday scouting the Old City.
+Not having connected with the contact person, George Hintlian, the travelers explored the Old City on their own.
+Many of the things they saw were seen again in more detail on Monday and Tuesday with George.
 </p>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/shops.jpg"
@@ -114,10 +119,14 @@ Shop along the alleyways in Old City Jerusalem.
 
 <p>
 Church of the Holy Sepulchre - believed to be the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and tomb and resurrection.
-Affirmed by recent research in the basement.
-Currently occupied by the main denominations sharing property over parts of the church are the Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic, and to a lesser degree the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox.
+Currently occupied by the main denominations sharing property of the church are the Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic, and to a lesser degree the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox.
 </p>
 
+<figure>
+  <img src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/de/Plan_of_the_Church_of_the_Holy_Sepulchre_and_adjacent_structures_in_Jerusalem_-_Chrysanthus_of_Bursa_-_1807.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Footprint. Chrysanthus of Bursa [Public domain]</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <img src="jerusalem/sepulchre-exterior.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
@@ -150,7 +159,7 @@ Gouged badly, learned to see menu with prices first, Nancy was not feeling too w
 Nancy enjoys Lunch.
 <br>
 
-<h3>wailing wall</h3>
+<h3>Wailing Wall</h3>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/wailing-stands.jpg"
      alt=""
@@ -162,7 +171,7 @@ Stands to hold prayer material.
 <img src="jerusalem/wailing-men.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
-Wailing wall men's side.
+Wailing Wall men's side.
 <br>
 <br>
 
@@ -171,12 +180,16 @@ Wailing wall men's side.
      width="100%">
 Special area which is covered (men's side).
 <br>
-<br>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/wailing-washing.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Handwashing area for use before approaching the wall.</figcaption>
+<figure>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/wailing-women.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
-Wailing wall women's side.
+Wailing Wall women's side.
 <br>
 <br>
 
@@ -187,18 +200,16 @@ Nancy delivered a prayer from Tamia and left it in the wailing wall.
 <br>
 
 <p>
-After viewing the wailing wall, the travelers walked back to the hotel to take a nap.
+After viewing the Wailing Wall, the travelers walked back to the hotel to take a nap.
 Needed to recover after long trip from USA to Israel.
 </p>
 
 <h3>Armenian quarter & St. James' Cathedral</h3>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/armenian-statuary.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Statuary in the church.
-<br>
-<br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/armenian-statuary.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Statuary in the courtyard of St. James' Cathedral.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/armenian-seminary.jpg"
      alt=""
@@ -214,13 +225,16 @@ Reminder of the genocide.
 <br>
 <br>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/armenian-patriarchate.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Head of the Armenian apostolic group in Jerusalem.
-<br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/armenian-patriarchate.jpg">
+  <figccaption>Street sign labeling head of the Armenian Apostolic group in Jerusalem.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-<h3>dinner</h3>
+<h3>dinner, end of day</h3>
+
+<p>
+The Travelers ate dinner at Bulghourji Restaurant which served Armenian food.
+</p>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/sunday-dinner.jpg"
      alt=""
@@ -236,12 +250,10 @@ Shops closed at the end of the day.
 <br>
 <br>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/hotel-roof-night.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Night view from Hotel rooftop.
-<br>
-<br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/hotel-roof-night.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Night view from hotel rooftop.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-16><a href=#2019-09-16>2019-09-16 Monday</a></h2>
@@ -249,7 +261,8 @@ Night view from Hotel rooftop.
 <h3>morning</h3>
 
 <p>
-Monday morning, with help of hotel staff, Nancy's luggage was found and delivered.
+Monday morning, with help of hotel staff, Nancy's luggage was found.
+The day included times when the travelers were with George and times when they were on their own.
 </p>
 
 <img src="jerusalem/hotel-roof-sunrise.jpg"
@@ -265,22 +278,27 @@ The travelers visited the Dome of the Rock.
 Nancy had previously visited in 1969 (50 years prior).
 </p>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/dome-1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-<br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/dome-1.jpg">
+</figure>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/dome-2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-<br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/dome-2.jpg">
+</figure>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/dome-3.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/dome-3.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Santa Anna Church</h3>
+
+<p>
+Next to Bethesda ruins.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/santa-anna.jpg">
+</figure>
 
 <h3>Bethsada pool</h3>
 
@@ -301,6 +319,11 @@ Nancy had previously visited in 1969 (50 years prior).
 The travelers walked the rampart wall from Jaffa gate to Zion gate.
 </p>
 
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/armenian-cemetery.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Armenian cemetery.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <img src="jerusalem/rampart-1.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
@@ -312,29 +335,41 @@ The travelers walked the rampart wall from Jaffa gate to Zion gate.
      width="100%">
 <br>
 
-<h3>first meeting with George</h3>
+<h3>David's Tower</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers toured David's Tower, where there are 21 layers of history.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="jerusalem/21-layers.jpg">
+ <figcaption>21 layers of history at David's tower.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>meet with George at Christ's church café</h3>
 
 <p>
 The travelers met with <a href=https://openjlem.hypotheses.org/1192>George Hintlian</a>.
-Late morning coffee shop.
 Following are two audio recordings from that meeting.
 </p>
 
 TODO: audio 1
 TODO: audio 2
 
-<h3>David's Tower</h3>
-
 <p>
-The travelers toured David's Tower, where there are 21 layers of history.
+The travelers looked more carefully with George for information about Miriam Torosian (n.e.e. Jerahian).
+They want to see if there are records that she was born or married in Jerusalem.
+They found no records.
 </p>
 
 <figure>
- <img src="jerusalem/21-layers.jpg">
- <figcaption>21 layers of history at David's tower.</figcaption>
+  <img src="jerusalem/miriam.png">
+  <figcaption>Torosian family photo.
+    Left to right, Miram, John, and John's wife Paroos (n.e.e. Takousian).
+    Picture was probably taken in 1912 when John and Paroos were married.</figcaption>
 </figure>
 
-<h3>return to St. James'</h3>
+<h3>time with George at St. James'</h3>
 
 <p>
 George showed them St. James' church.
@@ -345,85 +380,142 @@ Nancy shared the family's Armenian table grace with George, who was touched.
  <img src="jerusalem/st-james-1.jpg">
 </figure>
 
-<h3>CHS</h3>
+<h3>time with George at Gulbenkian Library</h3>
+
+<p>
+Besides exploring our data about Miriam Jerahian, George was also interested in their data about Grandpa’s property in Turkey.
+He read the English and Turkish papers
+</p>
+
+TODO: George third audio.
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/gulbenkian.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
 
 <p>
 The travelers returned to CHS and met with George again.
 Ability to see special place in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre along with Canadian officials guided by George.
 Recent research affirms that this place was the place where Jesus’ tomb was.
-A YouTube video on this issue may be found at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uuZ-C7nmj4
+A YouTube video on this issue may be found <a href=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uuZ-C7nmj4>here</a>.
 This counters research (Talpoit tomb) which concluded that Jesus’ body and family tomb had been found about three miles away from the CHS.
 </p>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/CHS-gate.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-The gate to the basement of the CHS.
-<br>
-<br>
+TODO: George fourth audio.
 
-<img src="jerusalem/CHS-mass.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy watching a private mass on the main floor of the CHS.
-<br>
-<br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-gate.jpg">
+  <figcaption>the gate to the basement of the CHS</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-<img src="jerusalem/CHS-tour.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-George leads a tour.
-<br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-george.jpg">
+  <figcaption>George explaining the recent research.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-research1.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-research2.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-dynamics.jpg">
+  <figcaption>George giving details about the dynamics of the various groups occupying the CHS .</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-ladder.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Note ladder.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>dinner with George</h3>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/dinner-george.jpg">
+</figure>
 
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-17><a href=#2019-09-17>2019-09-17 Tuesday</a></h2>
 
+<p>
+Nancy’s luggage was finally delivered to the hotel by staff who had to walk to another hotel outside the wall to get it.
+</p>
+
 <h3>wall's promenade</h3>
 
 <p>
 The travelers walked the wall Jaffa Gate to Damascus Gate.
 </p>
 
-<h3>Armenian apostolic church office</h3>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/from-wall.jpg">
+  <figcaption>View of Jerusalem from the wall.</h3>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Israeli Museum</h3>
 
 <p>
-The travelers looked more carefully with George for information about Miriam Torosian (n.e.e. Jerahian).
-They want to see if there are records that she was born or married in Jerusalem.
-They found no records.
+The travelers viewed the dead sea scrolls at the Israeli Museum, which is outside the Old City.
 </p>
 
 <figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/miriam.png">
-  <figcaption>Torosian family photo.
-    Left to right, Miram, John, and John's wife Paroos (n.e.e. Takousian).
-    Picture was probably taken in 1912 when John and Paroos were married.</figcaption>
+  <img src="jerusalem/dead-sea-scroll.jpg">
 </figure>
 
+<h3>time with George at the Armenian Apostolic church office</h3>
+
 <figure>
   <img src="jerusalem/george-nancy-book.jpg">
   <figcaption>George and Nancy look for information about Miriam Jarahian.</figcaption>
 </figure>
 
-<h3>Israeli museum</h3>
+<h3>time with George at the Gulbenkian Library</h3>
 
-dead sea scrolls
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/walk-to-library.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Walking to the Gulbenkian library in the Armenian quarter.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-<h3>tea with George</h3>
+<h3>time with George at Armenian Cemetery</h3>
 
-<h3>Armenian cemetery</h3>
+<figure>
+  <img src="jerusalem/cemetery-selfie.jpg">
+  <figcaption>George,Nancy and Jim standing in the cemetery of the Armenian quarter in front of a memorial to Armenian soldiers who fought post 1918.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-<h3>dinner with George</h3>
+<h3>wrapping up with George</h3>
+
+<p>
+The afternoon before the travelers left Israel for Turkey, George shared that they should not take the original paperwork (English and Turkish) about Yesia’s inherited property to Turkey.
+He offered to keep it for them until he could get it to Jim via a trusted person.
+The travelers followed George’s advice and were glad they did.
+Because in Turkey they had three experiences which could have placed them in a position they did not intend to be in while there.
+First, when they met with the Hrant Dink staff in Istanbul, they wanted to know if Yesia had been a Turkish citizen when he left Turkey in 1900 because they had a law suit against Turkey showing that such citizens may have been entitled to property.
+Second, they had an unexpected interaction with a national Turkish politician in Erzindjan and a semi-expected interaction with a local Turkish official in Develi.
+Both wanted to know about possible property implications of their visit.
+For all three instances they were grateful that they did not have these papers with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They had a second dinner with George during which they had candid discussion of politics in Armenia, Israel and Turkey.
+</p>
 
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
 
 <h3>depart</h3>
 
-Wednesday morning
-
-meet taxi at christ church
-
-drove to airport seeing divide of Palestine
+<p>
+Meet taxi at Christ Church.
+Drove to airport seeing divide of Palestine.
+</p>
 
 </body>
 </html>
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new file mode 100644
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new file mode 100644
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/walk-to-library.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem/walk-to-library.jpg
new file mode 100644
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diff --git a/public/style.css b/public/style.css
index 3876837..ae5deb1 100644
--- a/public/style.css
+++ b/public/style.css
@@ -15,6 +15,16 @@ body {
   text-align: left;
 }
 
+hr {
+  display: block;
+  margin-top: 0.5em;
+  margin-bottom: 0.5em;
+  margin-left: auto;
+  margin-right: auto;
+  border-style: inset;
+  border-width: 1px;
+}
+
 table, th, td {
   border: 1px solid #969896;
   border-collapse: collapse;
@@ -32,10 +42,8 @@ th, td {
 }
 
 figure {
-  float: right;
   width: 100%;
   margin: 0px auto;
-  margin-top: 1em;
   margin-bottom: 1em;
 }
 
-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From aa067cb8598fb3a6f3be60b609d57dfde155e123 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 12:12:33 -0600
Subject: istanbul complete draft

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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html
index d6529c5..64c29d9 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html
@@ -17,32 +17,250 @@ Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memo
 
 <h3>Nancy, James Jerusalem to Istanbul</h3>
 
+<p>
+The travelers met a cab at the Jaffa gate with their luggage and drove to Tel Aviv.
+They drove through sections which showed the barriers between Palestine and Israel with long lines of people waiting to go to work on busses.
+They flew to Istanbul and caught a cab driving to Istanbul.
+This is a distance of about 60 miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is good that the airport  has many moving sidewalks because the place is HUGE.
+It took the travelers  a long time to get from the place where they debarked the plane to the place where they collected their luggage, went through security and found a cab.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/airport-walkway.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Istanbul Airport walkway.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Istanbul Overview</h3>
+
+<p>
+Istanbul is a popular place to visit with a long and important history.
+The travelers wanted to experience this place and gain some understanding of what life may have been like for Yesia when he lived there.
+Yesia  began working in Istanbul when he was 13 and lived there until he was 17 when he immigrated to the US (1900) due to Turkish fear of Armenian revolutionaries.
+</p>
+
+<h3>Basileus Hotel</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers arrived at <a href=https://www.basileushotel.com/>Basileus Hotel</a>, their home away from home in Istanbul.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/basileus-exterior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Basileus exterior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/basileus-nancy.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Nancy naps in her Basileus bed.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Istanbul first reactions</h3>
+
+<p>
+There seem to be lots of dogs and cats roaming the streets.
+It appeared that they were all fed and perhaps even vaccinated.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/dogs.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Public Istanbul dogs.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers enjoyed turkish delight candy.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/turkish-delight.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Turkish delight being sold at a local shop.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Hagia Sophia at sunset was a special sight.
+</p>
 
-long cab ride
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/hagia-sophia-sunset.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Hagia Sophia at sunset.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-<h3>First visit to Hippodrome</h3>
+<p>
+The travelers took dinner at 3 Partners restaurant.
+Both Jim and Nancy had an entire bowl (meant to be for dipping) of jajikh.
+</p>
 
-<h3>diner</h3>
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/three-partners.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Dinner at 3 Partners restaurant.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-19><a href=#2019-09-19>2019-09-19 Thursday</a></h2>
 
-<h3>Sultans palace</h3>
+<h3>breakfast</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers learned that Turkish breakfast is quite different from "continental style".
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/breakfast.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Basileus hotel breakfast.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-<h3>Harem</h3>
+<h3>Sultan's Palace</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited the <a href=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topkap%C4%B1_Palace>Sultan's Palace</a>.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sultan-wall.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Outer wall of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sultan-gate.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Inner gate of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sultan-model.jpg">
+  <figcaption>3D model of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sultan-pebbles.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Pebble art at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sultan-wall-detail.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Interesting wall detail at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sultan-tile-ceiling.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Tile ceiling in one of the Kiosks on the property.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/harem-building.jpg">
+  <figcaption>The Harem building on the sultan’s property.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sultan-toilet.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Toilet for the sultan's mother.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sultan-lighting.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Interesting lighting.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sultan-fireplace.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Fireplace in the Sultan’s bedroom.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sultan-bedroom-window.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Sultan's bedroom window.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sultan-drainage.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Fancy drainage system.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <h3>Harant Dink foundation</h3>
 
-asian side of istanbul
+<p>
+After lunch the travelers  undertook to find the offices of the <a href=https://hrantdink.org/tr/>Hrant Dink Organization</a> located on the Asian side of Istanbul.
+They had the address but had trouble finding it.
+Finally they did find it with the help of Jim’s phone GPS and a hand drawn map by a tattoo artist who worked in a shop nearby.
+Once there, they  were given helpful information about visiting Istanbul, Kayseri and Erzindjan.
+The staff were interested in the fact that the travelers  were visiting Develi in an attempt to see where the property Yesia inherited  may have been.
+Evidently this organization is in the process of suing the Turkish government  which claims that Armenians who left Turkey before the genocide as Turkish citizens should be entitled to 	reparations.
+We do not intend to be part of this lawsuit, but we wonder if Turkish documents about Yesia might have indicated if he was a Turkish citizen when he left in 1900.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After spending the afternoon in this way, the travelers enjoyed a nice dinner before bed.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/nancy-dinner.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Nancy enjoys dinner.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-20><a href=#2019-09-20>2019-09-20 Friday</a></h2>
 
 <h3>Basillica cistern</h3>
 
+<p>
+Jim and Nancy tour The Basilica Cistern- used by Romans to bring water via aquaducts to the city.
+7000 slaves dug the hole (9 feet deep, 140 feet long and 70 feet wide) in 9 months.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/cistern-columns.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Many columns, some reused from other places.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/weeping-column.jpg">
+  <figcaption>The weeping column- dedicated to the many workers died in the process of constructing the place.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <h3>Armenian district</h3>
 
-found Armenian protestant church
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/coffee-sand.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Making Turkish coffee in sand.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/steps.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Steep colored steps on a street.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/fixer-upper.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Lots of fixer-uppers.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/sweat-shop.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Sweat shops are in the basements of various businesses.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/armenian-church-exterior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church exterior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/armenian-church-interior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church interior.
+  Lit two candles for Azniv here.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/armenian-church-caretaker.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church caretaker.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/shoes.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Many, many shoe businesses, as there where when Yesia worked for his shoemaker uncle.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <h3>Blaise travels Madison to Istanbul</h3>
 
@@ -90,6 +308,16 @@ Arriving in Istanbul (early evening Istanbul time), Blaise was greeted by Nancy
 Blaise was able to unpack before the three of them had a very nice meal at the restaurant across the street.
 </p>
 
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/blaise-nancy-meet.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Blaise and Nancy meet.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/friday-dinner.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Travelers enjoy dinner at a local restaraunt.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-21><a href=#2019-09-21>2019-09-21 Saturday</a></h2>
 
@@ -282,12 +510,27 @@ At 17:00 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided boat tour of the Bosophorus str
 Bosophorus tour route. <br>
 <br>
 
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/dolmabahce.jpg">
+  <figcaption>View of Dolmabahce from the Bosphorus.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/boat-selfie.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Travelers pose during the Bosophorus boat tour.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <h3>dinner</h3>
 
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-22><a href=#2019-09-22>2019-09-22 Sunday</a></h2>
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/bridge-dinner.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Nancy and Blaise enjoy the view during dinner.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-<h3>depart</h3>
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul/bridge.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Bridge with restaurants on, where travelers ate.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 </body>
 </html>
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From baa3c891530ce2c22d004837406d9a99b06f4a81 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 16:34:32 -0600
Subject: erzincan edits

---
 public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html        |  40 ++++++++++++++++++---
 .../erzincan/family-photo.png                      | Bin 0 -> 734419 bytes
 .../erzincan/kemah-fort-drawing.png                | Bin 0 -> 785938 bytes
 public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/labeled.png | Bin 0 -> 1649545 bytes
 4 files changed, 36 insertions(+), 4 deletions(-)
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/family-photo.png
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/kemah-fort-drawing.png
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/labeled.png

diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html
index 183576f..afe6080 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html
@@ -12,6 +12,35 @@
 
 Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
 
+<hr>
+
+<h3>note: historical vs modern Erzincan</h3>
+
+<p>
+Erzindjan is now north of the location as of 1907.
+When Azniv was born, Erzindjan and the surrounding area was part of Armenia.
+It was made part of Turkey in 1920 after the conclusion of WW1.
+Besides the genocide, Erzindjan is earthquake prone.
+In 1254 William Rubruck said more than 10,000 people were killed by an earthquake.
+In 1939 there was another earthquake which led to the death of 32,962.
+The old site was entirely abandoned and the town was relocated to the north.
+</p>
+
+<h3>note: family connection with Erzindjan</h3>
+
+<p>
+The following photo was taken​ in 1906,​ four years after Stepan and his family arrived in the USi.
+Standing from left to right in the back row are: Azniv/Agnes Torosian (born Shakargian, who is Nancy and Jim’s maternal grandmother)​, her brother Arshag and his wife, Nartouhi Pojojian (alternates Nartoo, Pazozian, Posozian).
+The adults sitting from left to right in the front row are Nancy and Jim’s great-grandmother, Lucien Shakargian (born Donegian), and great-grandfather, Stepan Shakargian.
+The family believes two of the children are Arshag's children but the third child may be one of the sister's, Eva Kapigian (born Shakargian) children.
+The travelers  think Azniv was born in Erzindjan proper rather than adjacent villages because: 1) they used the Turkish bath house which was a Roman ruin, 2) they had a shop where folks bought things- perhaps sugar, candy, coffee, 3) Azniv went to a school and the city had a school for girls (Chrisdinian).
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="erzincan/family-photo.png">
+  <figcaption>Shakargian family photo.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-22><a href=#2019-09-22>2019-09-22 Sunday</a></h2>
 
@@ -111,8 +140,6 @@ Azniv was roughly 16 years old at the time.
 The travelers attempted to visit the place where Azniv and her family had lived.
 </p>
 
-[TODO: photo of family that left]
-
 <p>
 Nancy's notes contained a picture of old Erzincan (1907) behind which a particular view of the mountain range could be seen.
 This was Mount Kazen Kaya.
@@ -121,7 +148,10 @@ Since the earthquake and rebuilding, there are almost no remaining structures or
 Still, the travelers were able to find the mountain view as seen in the old pictures, and also where the Euphrates currently flows.
 </p>
 
-[TODO: include old photograph for comparison] <br>
+<figure>
+  <img src="erzincan/labeled.png">
+  <figcaption>Old Erzincan.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <img src="erzincan/old-mountains.jpg"
      alt=""
@@ -185,7 +215,9 @@ Arriving in Kemah, the travelers found the location of another photograph from N
 They were able to find the exact point where the photograph was taken.
 </p>
 
-[TODO: old photo for comparison]
+<img src="erzincan/kemah-fort-drawing.png"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
 
 <img src="erzincan/kemah-ruins.jpg"
      alt=""
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-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From 26a35d88c4c9e8d6acae9ac1403f83b5f09f7572 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2019 15:25:11 -0600
Subject: cappadocia fine-tuning

---
 public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html      | 104 ++++++++++++++-------
 .../cappadocia/blaise-castle.jpg                   | Bin 0 -> 3181097 bytes
 .../cappadocia/breakfast.jpg                       | Bin 0 -> 3767043 bytes
 public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/camel.jpg | Bin 0 -> 2495846 bytes
 .../cappadocia/night-castle.jpg                    | Bin 0 -> 1534505 bytes
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 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/blaise-castle.jpg
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 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/camel.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/night-castle.jpg

diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html
index a38ab97..4b87649 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html
@@ -33,8 +33,7 @@ When the view is clear, it is obvious that the mountain is a volcano that has er
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 A view of of Mount Ericyes from the Kayseri side.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-
+<br>
 
 <h3>Lunch at Sivas</h3>
 
@@ -50,7 +49,24 @@ There are no parking meters, but individual workers make it their business to ta
      width="100%">
 Blaise poses in front of a hotel in central Sivas.
 Sivas was the birthplace of St. Blaise, Blaise's namesake.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+
+<h3>Cappadocia overview</h3>
+
+<p>
+Pronounced "cap a dough sha".
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Cappadocia, a semi-arid region in central Turkey, is known for its distinctive “fairy chimneys,” tall, cone-shaped rock formations clustered in Monks Valley, Göreme and elsewhere.
+Other notables sites include Bronze Age homes carved into valley walls by troglodytes (cave dwellers) and later used as refuges by early Christians.
+The 100m-deep Ihlara Canyon houses numerous rock-face churches.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Although the travelers have no relatives in this area, they decided to visit Cappadocia anyway to take in the amazing geology.
+It was well worth the visit.
+</p>
 
 <h3>night in Gorome</h3>
 
@@ -65,11 +81,11 @@ Gorome is a rock city with many buildings built into the walls and pillars
      width="100%">
 An example hotel in Gorome.
 Many hotels are built right into the rock walls and pillars that surround the town.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 
 <p>
 Initially there was some confusion about which hotel was correct, as there are many hotels whose names contain some combination of "cave" and "suite".
-The travelers stayed in the Ottoman Cave Suite hotels, which was right at the center of Gorome and afforded wonderful views of the surrounding town during sunset.
+The travelers stayed in the <a href=http://www.ottomancavesuites.com>Ottoman Cave Suite</a> hotels, which was right at the center of Gorome and afforded wonderful views of the surrounding town during sunset.
 They had a honeymoon suite on the top floor, with a personal hot tub and a wonderful view of the surrounding city.
 The travelers watched the sun set from the roof of their hotel.
 </p>
@@ -78,24 +94,31 @@ The travelers watched the sun set from the roof of their hotel.
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 View from inside the hotel room.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="cappadocia/gorome-sunset.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Sun setting over gorome, as viewed from the hotel roof.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="cappadocia/sunset-selfie.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Jim, Nancy, and Blaise enjoying the sunset.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="cappadocia/night-castle.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+The nearby castle at night, as viewed from the hotel.
+<br>
 
 <p>
-After unpacking and watching the sunset, the travelers enjoyed a nice chinese dinner at ????? restraunt.
+After unpacking and watching the sunset, the travelers enjoyed a nice Chinese dinner at a local restaurant.
 </p>
 
 <hr>
@@ -111,20 +134,26 @@ The sunrise was also fantastic as viewed from the hotel roof.
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Sun rising over Gorome, as viewed from the hotel roof.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="cappadocia/sunrise-blaise.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Blaise poses on the hotel roof during the sunrise.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 
 <p>
 During breakfast, the travelers finally tried the talum from Kemah.
 One of the hotel empoyees shared her own talum, which is made with "black seed" (cumin)
 </p>
 
+<figure>
+  <img src="cappadocia/breakfast.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Breakfast at Ottoman Cave Suite.
+  Note the talum on the table with Nancy and Blaise.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <h2>hike</h2>
 
 <p>
@@ -137,36 +166,36 @@ Ultimately, they arrived at Çavuşin.
      width="100%">
 A tree near sunset point that has been decorated with "evil eyes".
 This symbol was common throughout the region.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="cappadocia/red-valley-blaise.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Blaise poses at the entrance to the red valley.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="cappadocia/nancy-doorway.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
-Nancy poses near the door of one of the carved dwellings.
+Nancy poses near the door of one of the carved churches.
 Note how thick the walls were made.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="cappadocia/red-valley-painting.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 View inside of one of the carved dwellings, showing painted roof detail.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="cappadocia/red-valley-nancy.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Nancy sits at the entrance to one of the red valley dwellings.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 
 <p>
 At some point, the travelers hopped from the Red Valley to Rose Valley.
@@ -177,35 +206,35 @@ Rose valley contained many amazing carved rock structures.
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Rose valley rock formations.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="cappadocia/rose-valley-nancy-jim.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Nancy and jim pose at the entrance to Rose Valley.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="cappadocia/nancy-bridge.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Nancy stands on the bridge into column church.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="cappadocia/column.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Column church, interior.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 <br>
 
 <img src="cappadocia/blaise-carvings.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Blaise poses in front of some carved structures in Rose Valley.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 
 <p>
 Foolishly, the travelers forgot water and food.
@@ -217,31 +246,40 @@ This cafe was located right under cross church, and the view into Rose Valley wa
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Painting within cross church, next to StarBox.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
+<br>
 
 <p>
-Taxi back to Hotel.
+The travelers ultimately exited the valleys in a nearby town, and were able to catch a taxi back to their hotel.
 </p>
 
 <h2>Castle</h2>
 
-Drove to Castle.
+<p>
+As a last activity, the travelers visited the local castle.
+They ate lunch near the top.
+The view was amazing, even though it was raining that day.
+Nancy and Blaise paid 9 TL each to go to the top of the castle.
+It was a fairly tourist-centered area, but not many visitors were there.
+Their were camel rides available.
+</p>
 
-Lunch near top.
 
 <img src="cappadocia/lunch.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
 Lunch.
-[COORDINATES]<br>
-
-
-Saw camels.
-
-View. 9 TL to enter.
+<br>
+<br>
 
-Raining that day.
+<figure>
+  <img src="cappadocia/blaise-castle.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Blaise poses on top of the castle.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
+<figure>
+  <img src="cappadocia/camel.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Jim shows us a local camel.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 
 </body>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/blaise-castle.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/blaise-castle.jpg
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-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From a55d3c5ab1b9ec8a1aca801f22aa32a7636114ce Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2019 15:54:58 -0600
Subject: kayseri-develi update

---
 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html  | 109 +++++++++++++++++++--
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 .../kayseri-develi/bosphorus.jpg                   | Bin 0 -> 1932972 bytes
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 .../kayseri-develi/kayseri-pool.jpg                | Bin 0 -> 3677412 bytes
 .../kayseri-develi/public-transportation.jpg       | Bin 0 -> 3634020 bytes
 10 files changed, 101 insertions(+), 8 deletions(-)
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/Yesia.png
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/bosphorus.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/kayseri-airport.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/kayseri-church-dome.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/kayseri-church-exterior.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/kayseri-church-interior.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/kayseri-mall.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/kayseri-pool.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/public-transportation.jpg

diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html
index e1a8612..fec839a 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html
@@ -56,9 +56,32 @@ Note the use of suction cups to attach to the marble walls.
 
 <p>
 The travelers enjoyed a wonderful drive over Mt Erciyes from Kayseri to Develi.
+One of the small pieces of information remembered by Nancy is that, although the family lived closer to Kayseri, they would prefer to travel to Istanbul because the way to Kayseri was made so difficult by the mountain.
+Although modern roads make the way easy, it was clear to the travelers why it would be difficult to travel over Mt. Erciyes in those times.
+</p>
+
+<p>
 They met their guide (Selim Akdoğan) at the entrance of town.
+Selim proved to be an amazing local guide.
+His business care gives the following credentials and roles:  B.Sc P.D. MBA CCol ASDC Economist, Scientist, Journalist, Historian, Politician, Senior Executive.
+Selim has a clear love for natural life & enjoys exchanging views with everyone.
+</p>
+
+<h3>the Torosian family</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers searched Develi for evidence of the Torosian family.
+This photo of Yesia was taken between 1900 when he immigrated to the US and 1908 when he was married.
+As of 1933, Yesia and his wife petitioned Turkish authorities (via the US Department of State) for compensation for the loss of family real estate and properties.
+Yesia claimed that his uncle Sarkis Effendi Yanuk Garabed Torosian, had bequeathed a home and vineyards to him which were described in detail.
+The claim was denied but Jim and Nancy had the documents with the description of the properties.
 </p>
 
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/Yesia.png">
+  <figcaption>Portrait of Yesia Torosian.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <h3>Armenian vineyards</h3>
 
 <p>
@@ -82,7 +105,7 @@ Valley in Develi, showing signs of terracing.
 <h3>old fountain</h3>
 
 <p>
-Nancy's notes contained references of a fountain, where spring water would emerge with great force.
+Nancy's notes contained references of a fountain in Fenesse, where spring water would emerge with great force.
 This old fountain has been converted into a swimming pool.
 There are many springs around Develi, which lead to a "ground irrigated" effect and relatively fertile soil.
 </p>
@@ -97,6 +120,7 @@ old fountain, now a swimming pool.
 
 <p>
 The guide Selim showed the travelers where the ruins of St. Trovos were.
+This was the main Armenian church in Fenesse.
 This is likely where the Torosians would have attended church.
 It has now been made into a childrens playground, with only one wall of the church still standing.
 </p>
@@ -131,12 +155,10 @@ The Everek district was close by, but separated by Turkish occupied land.
      width="100%">
 Districts of Develi. <br>
 
-<h3>Fenesse</h3>
-
-NO ACTUALLY EVEREK
+<h3>Everek</h3>
 
 <p>
-After meeting the municpality officials, the travlers, guide Selim, and cultural affairs director Ali headed out to take a walking tour of Fenesse.
+After meeting the municpality officials, the travlers, guide Selim, and cultural affairs director Ali headed out to take a walking tour of Everek.
 This is the district where the Torosians lived.
 </p>
 
@@ -241,14 +263,85 @@ sampled types of Manti
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-27><a href=#2019-09-27>2019-09-27 Friday</a></h2>
 
-Casual day exploring Kayseri.
+<h3>Armenian apostolic church</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers were able to visit a local Armenian apostolic church.
+This may be the only Armenian church in the wider area of Kayseri / Develi.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-church-exterior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Exterior of Armenian Apostolic Church.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-church-interior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Interior of Armenian Apostolic Church.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-church-dome.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Interior of Armenian Apostolic Church, dome detail.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>casual day</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers split up and enjoyed a casual day of rest in Kayseri.
+Nancy and Blaise went to work at on organizing notes at a local Starbucks.
+Jim had fun exploring the city and enjoying amenities at a fancy hotel nearby.
+The travelers enjoyed the "sights and sounds" of everyday life in Kayseri.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/public-transportation.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Kayseri public transportation was modern and efficient.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-mall.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Very fancy local mall.
+  Note security guard; security was clearly a big deal in Kayseri.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-pool.jpg">
+  <figcaption>High-rise indoor pool enjoyed by Jim.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-28><a href=#2019-09-28>2019-09-28 Saturday</a></h2>
 
-Nancy and Blaise back to USA.
+<h3>travel home</h3>
 
-James to Istanbul until Monday.
+<p>
+All three of the travelers left Kayseri- Nancy and Blaise for the USA and Jim for a little more time in Istanbul.
+After dropping off the rented car, they began the journey in the Kayseri airport
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-airport.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Kayseri airport.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/bosphorus.jpg">
+  <figcaption>View of the bosphorus as Blaise flew into Istanbul.
+  A fitting last look at Turkey.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+In Istanbul Blaise and Nancy knew that a delay (2 hours) of the flight to Chicago would pose problems in getting to our respective final destinations.
+The Turkish Air folks arranged for Blaise to have a stand by status with an Am Airlines flight but he still needed to check with their office in Chicago.
+Nancy did not have any options since the flight to Cedar Rapids was the last one that night.
+Once Blaise and Nancy parted in Chicago, Nancy did what she could to make my flight to Cedar Rapids.
+Had to go through security and get to the gate.
+Poor signage confused her and she went to the gate terminal (1) rather than the security terminal (2) first.
+While waiting in the security line she met a kind woman who was in the same boat.
+When they both discovered that they could not get to Cedar Rapids that night, she (Jeanette 	Harrington) offered to let Nancy  share her hotel room.
+She did so and Nany was able to shower and have 3 hours of sleep before returning to O’Hare for the final flight home.
+</p>
 
 </body>
 </html>
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From 88e19c201dbdf1ffacd0c0ca38f0971a83a8cb5d Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2019 18:51:56 -0600
Subject: kayseri update

---
 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html  | 141 +++++++++++++++++++--
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html
index fec839a..ec48244 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html
@@ -34,6 +34,11 @@ The waiter and restaurant owner spoke no english.
 It continued to rain very hard.
 </p>
 
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-map.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Map of Kayseri.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <img src="kayseri-develi/hotel-beds.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
@@ -67,6 +72,11 @@ His business care gives the following credentials and roles:  B.Sc P.D. MBA CCol
 Selim has a clear love for natural life & enjoys exchanging views with everyone.
 </p>
 
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/develi-map.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Map of Develi.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <h3>the Torosian family</h3>
 
 <p>
@@ -116,6 +126,11 @@ There are many springs around Develi, which lead to a "ground irrigated" effect
 old fountain, now a swimming pool.
 [38.387 n, 35.501 e] <br>
 
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/pool-tile.jpg">
+  <figcaption>detail of swimming pool, showing tilework</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <h3>ruins of St. Trovos</h3>
 
 <p>
@@ -183,6 +198,11 @@ Note very large soup bowl on table.
 [38.387 N, 35.492 E] <br>
 <br>
 
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/noah-soup.jpg">
+  <figcaption>closeup of noah soup</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <img src="kayseri-develi/nancy-students.jpg"
      alt=""
      width="100%">
@@ -230,35 +250,132 @@ The freshly harvested walnuts had a strong flavor.
      width="100%">
 Locals use a long stick to harvest from a walnut tree. <br>
 
+<p>
+The travelers saw an old Armenian church.
+The building is still standing, but is now being used as a mosque.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/mosque-interior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
 <h3>lunch</h3>
 
-<h3>Everek</h3>
+<p>
+The travelers were treated to lunch by the standing mayor and cultural official.
+They ate at an outdoor restaurant in the town center, Elbiz restaurant.
+The cuisine was turkish pizza.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/elbiz.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Natural spring in the center of Elbiz park.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Bedrosian home</h3>
+
+<p>
+After lunch, the travelers visited the home previously owned by the Bedrosian family, the last Armenian family to occupy Develi.
+</p>
 
-old church now mosque
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/bedrosian-key.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Key to Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-house owned by Bedrosians
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/bedrosian-arch.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Archway in Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/bedrosian-baby.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Baby carriage left in Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <h3>upper Develi</h3>
 
-tomb of ???
+<p>
+The travelers visited upper Develi, the old town that looks over the valley where the modern city lies.
+This old town has suffered through a few earthquakes, but original buildings do still stand.
+</p>
 
-second oldest mosque
+<p>
+The travelers saw a very old tomb in the mountains above Develi.
+</p>
 
-cross mountain
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/tomb-exterior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Tomb exterior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-turkish millitary memorials
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/tomb.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Tomb.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited the second oldest mosque in Develi, located in upper Develi.
+They enjoyed a sweet traditional drink, stored in large stone containers within the mosque.
+This mosque was gifted to the city by a very wealthy woman.
+A stone column in the front of the mosque freely rotates, its joint captured but not pinned by the stone above.
+This is an "earthquake alert system"; any small motion of the stone caused by an earthquake would cause the column to either stop freely rotating or fall out.
+</p>
 
-<h3>saying goodbye</h3>
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/mosque-develi.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-turkish coffee
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/rotating-column.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Freely rotating column.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-returned cheese
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/women-wall.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Wall where women may watch the prayer.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
-exchanged contact information
+<p>
+The travelers went up to the ridge where several Turkish millitary memorials were erected.
+The overlook provided remarkable views of the mountains and valley.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/nancy-develi.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Nancy poses in front of Develi.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/selfie.JPG">
+  <figcaption>All pose for a selfie with the view in the background.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <h3>back to Kayseri, dinner</h3>
 
-sampled types of Manti
+<p>
+After another very busy day, the travelers were happy to return to Kayseri.
+For dinner they tried a restaurant that specializes in manti, a favorite family food.
+Kayseri is said to be the birthplace of mainti, and there are many varieties served there.
+Nancy, Jim, and Blaise were able to each try a different variety of manti for dinner.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/manti1.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Blaise's manti.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/manti2.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Nancy's manti.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-develi/manti3.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Jim's manti.</figcaption>
+</figure>
 
 <hr>
 <h2 id=2019-09-27><a href=#2019-09-27>2019-09-27 Friday</a></h2>
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-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From ad53aa093a8de1a8d004f3624a6e93784360708a Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2019 15:28:01 -0600
Subject: reorganize jerusalem

---
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 public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html      | 286 -----------
 .../armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia/index.html   | 285 +++++++++++
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 public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul/index.html  | 533 ++++++++++++++++++++
 public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html       | 521 --------------------
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 .../kayseri-develi/index.html                      | 469 ++++++++++++++++++
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip.html
deleted file mode 100644
index 78e828e..0000000
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip.html
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,32 +0,0 @@
-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Armenian heritage trip</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Armenian heritage trip</h1>
-
-<p>
-In September 2019 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise took a vacation to explore their shared Armenian heritage.
-The primary purpose of this trip was to explore the old family homesteads in what is now Turkey.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-The exact trip of each traveler was a little bit different, as represented here.
-</p>
-
-Due to the extensive nature of this memory, it has been broken up into sections:
-<ol>
-  <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html">Jerusalem</a></li>
-  <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html">Istanbul</a></li>
-  <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html">Erzincan & Kemah</a></li>
-  <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html">Cappadocia</a></li>
-  <li><a href="./armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html">Kayseri & Develi</a></li>
-</ol>
-
-</body>
-</html>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html
deleted file mode 100644
index 4b87649..0000000
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/cappadocia.html
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,286 +0,0 @@
-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Cappadocia</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Cappadocia</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-24><a href=#2019-09-24>2019-09-24 Tuesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Traveling Erzincan to Cappadocia</h3>
-
-<p>
-The drive from Erzincan to Cappadocia was pleasant.
-There were many little bridges over the road to allow water to cross without washing out the road itself.
-The travelers saw animals, including a herd of sheep that crossed the road forcing a small delay.
-Each town seemed centered around a mosque with tall minarets.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Along the way, the travelers saw an excelent view of Mount Ericyes from the Kayseri side.
-When the view is clear, it is obvious that the mountain is a volcano that has erupted before.
-</p>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/volcano.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A view of of Mount Ericyes from the Kayseri side.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Lunch at Sivas</h3>
-
-<p>
-Nancy, Jim, and Blaise stopped at the city of Sivas for lunch.
-This was the birthplace of St. Blaise.
-Sivas is a large city with a complex network of busy roads.
-There are no parking meters, but individual workers make it their business to take a fee from each car that parks for more than one hour.
-</p>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/blaise-sivas.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Blaise poses in front of a hotel in central Sivas.
-Sivas was the birthplace of St. Blaise, Blaise's namesake.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Cappadocia overview</h3>
-
-<p>
-Pronounced "cap a dough sha".
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Cappadocia, a semi-arid region in central Turkey, is known for its distinctive “fairy chimneys,” tall, cone-shaped rock formations clustered in Monks Valley, Göreme and elsewhere.
-Other notables sites include Bronze Age homes carved into valley walls by troglodytes (cave dwellers) and later used as refuges by early Christians.
-The 100m-deep Ihlara Canyon houses numerous rock-face churches.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Although the travelers have no relatives in this area, they decided to visit Cappadocia anyway to take in the amazing geology.
-It was well worth the visit.
-</p>
-
-<h3>night in Gorome</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers arrived in Cappadocia late afternoon, just before sunset.
-They stayed in the town of Gorome, at the center of the Cappadocia region.
-Gorome is a rock city with many buildings built into the walls and pillars
-</p>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/gorome-hotel.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-An example hotel in Gorome.
-Many hotels are built right into the rock walls and pillars that surround the town.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-Initially there was some confusion about which hotel was correct, as there are many hotels whose names contain some combination of "cave" and "suite".
-The travelers stayed in the <a href=http://www.ottomancavesuites.com>Ottoman Cave Suite</a> hotels, which was right at the center of Gorome and afforded wonderful views of the surrounding town during sunset.
-They had a honeymoon suite on the top floor, with a personal hot tub and a wonderful view of the surrounding city.
-The travelers watched the sun set from the roof of their hotel.
-</p>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/hotel-windows.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View from inside the hotel room.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/gorome-sunset.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Sun setting over gorome, as viewed from the hotel roof.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/sunset-selfie.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Jim, Nancy, and Blaise enjoying the sunset.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/night-castle.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-The nearby castle at night, as viewed from the hotel.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-After unpacking and watching the sunset, the travelers enjoyed a nice Chinese dinner at a local restaurant.
-</p>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-25><a href=#2019-09-25>2019-09-25 Wednesday</a></h2>
-
-<h2>waking up</h2>
-
-<p>
-The sunrise was also fantastic as viewed from the hotel roof.
-</p>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/sunrise.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Sun rising over Gorome, as viewed from the hotel roof.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/sunrise-blaise.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Blaise poses on the hotel roof during the sunrise.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-During breakfast, the travelers finally tried the talum from Kemah.
-One of the hotel empoyees shared her own talum, which is made with "black seed" (cumin)
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="cappadocia/breakfast.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Breakfast at Ottoman Cave Suite.
-  Note the talum on the table with Nancy and Blaise.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h2>hike</h2>
-
-<p>
-The travelers took a taxi to the top of the ridge (sun set point) and meandered their way down through the valleys and caves of Cappadocia.
-Ultimately, they arrived at Çavuşin.
-</p>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/eye-tree.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A tree near sunset point that has been decorated with "evil eyes".
-This symbol was common throughout the region.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/red-valley-blaise.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Blaise poses at the entrance to the red valley.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/nancy-doorway.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy poses near the door of one of the carved churches.
-Note how thick the walls were made.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/red-valley-painting.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View inside of one of the carved dwellings, showing painted roof detail.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/red-valley-nancy.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy sits at the entrance to one of the red valley dwellings.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-At some point, the travelers hopped from the Red Valley to Rose Valley.
-Rose valley contained many amazing carved rock structures.
-</p>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/rose-valley.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Rose valley rock formations.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/rose-valley-nancy-jim.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy and jim pose at the entrance to Rose Valley.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/nancy-bridge.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy stands on the bridge into column church.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/column.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Column church, interior.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/blaise-carvings.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Blaise poses in front of some carved structures in Rose Valley.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-Foolishly, the travelers forgot water and food.
-They were happy to discover an oasis cafe "StarBox" which offered refreshing fruit juice and water.
-This cafe was located right under cross church, and the view into Rose Valley was amazing.
-</p>
-
-<img src="cappadocia/cross-church-painting.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Painting within cross church, next to StarBox.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-The travelers ultimately exited the valleys in a nearby town, and were able to catch a taxi back to their hotel.
-</p>
-
-<h2>Castle</h2>
-
-<p>
-As a last activity, the travelers visited the local castle.
-They ate lunch near the top.
-The view was amazing, even though it was raining that day.
-Nancy and Blaise paid 9 TL each to go to the top of the castle.
-It was a fairly tourist-centered area, but not many visitors were there.
-Their were camel rides available.
-</p>
-
-
-<img src="cappadocia/lunch.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Lunch.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="cappadocia/blaise-castle.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Blaise poses on top of the castle.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="cappadocia/camel.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Jim shows us a local camel.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-
-</body>
-</html>
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+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+  <meta charset="utf-8">
+  <title>Cappadocia</title>
+  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Cappadocia</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-24><a href=#2019-09-24>2019-09-24 Tuesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Traveling Erzincan to Cappadocia</h3>
+
+<p>
+The drive from Erzincan to Cappadocia was pleasant.
+There were many little bridges over the road to allow water to cross without washing out the road itself.
+The travelers saw animals, including a herd of sheep that crossed the road forcing a small delay.
+Each town seemed centered around a mosque with tall minarets.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Along the way, the travelers saw an excelent view of Mount Ericyes from the Kayseri side.
+When the view is clear, it is obvious that the mountain is a volcano that has erupted before.
+</p>
+
+<img src="volcano.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+A view of of Mount Ericyes from the Kayseri side.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Lunch at Sivas</h3>
+
+<p>
+Nancy, Jim, and Blaise stopped at the city of Sivas for lunch.
+This was the birthplace of St. Blaise.
+Sivas is a large city with a complex network of busy roads.
+There are no parking meters, but individual workers make it their business to take a fee from each car that parks for more than one hour.
+</p>
+
+<img src="blaise-sivas.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Blaise poses in front of a hotel in central Sivas.
+Sivas was the birthplace of St. Blaise, Blaise's namesake.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Cappadocia overview</h3>
+
+<p>
+Pronounced "cap a dough sha".
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Cappadocia, a semi-arid region in central Turkey, is known for its distinctive “fairy chimneys,” tall, cone-shaped rock formations clustered in Monks Valley, Göreme and elsewhere.
+Other notables sites include Bronze Age homes carved into valley walls by troglodytes (cave dwellers) and later used as refuges by early Christians.
+The 100m-deep Ihlara Canyon houses numerous rock-face churches.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Although the travelers have no relatives in this area, they decided to visit Cappadocia anyway to take in the amazing geology.
+It was well worth the visit.
+</p>
+
+<h3>night in Goreme</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers arrived in Cappadocia late afternoon, just before sunset.
+They stayed in the town of Goreme, at the center of the Cappadocia region.
+Goreme is a rock city with many buildings built into the rock walls and pillars
+</p>
+
+<img src="gorome-hotel.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+An example hotel in Goreme.
+<br>
+
+<p>
+Initially there was some confusion about which hotel was correct, as there are many hotels whose names contain some combination of "cave" and "suite".
+The travelers stayed in the <a href=http://www.ottomancavesuites.com>Ottoman Cave Suite</a> hotels, which was right at the center of Goreme and afforded wonderful views of the surrounding town during sunset.
+They had a honeymoon suite on the top floor, with a personal hot tub and a wonderful view of the surrounding city.
+The travelers watched the sun set from the roof of their hotel.
+</p>
+
+<img src="hotel-windows.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+View from inside the hotel room.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="gorome-sunset.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Sun setting over gorome, as viewed from the hotel roof.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="sunset-selfie.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Jim, Nancy, and Blaise enjoying the sunset.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="night-castle.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+The nearby castle at night, as viewed from the hotel.
+<br>
+
+<p>
+After unpacking and watching the sunset, the travelers enjoyed a nice Chinese dinner at a local restaurant.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-25><a href=#2019-09-25>2019-09-25 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h2>waking up</h2>
+
+<p>
+The sunrise was also fantastic as viewed from the hotel roof.
+</p>
+
+<img src="sunrise.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Sun rising over Goreme, as viewed from the hotel roof.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="sunrise-blaise.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Blaise poses on the hotel roof during the sunrise.
+<br>
+
+<p>
+During breakfast, the travelers finally tried the tulum from Kemah.
+One of the hotel empoyees shared her own tulum, which is made with "black seed" (cumin)
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="breakfast.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Breakfast at Ottoman Cave Suite.
+  Note the tulum on the table with Nancy and Blaise.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h2>hike</h2>
+
+<p>
+The travelers took a taxi to the top of the ridge (sun set point) and meandered their way down through the valleys and caves of Cappadocia.
+Ultimately, they arrived at Çavuşin.
+</p>
+
+<img src="eye-tree.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+A tree near sunset point that has been decorated with "evil eyes".
+This symbol was common throughout the region.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="red-valley-blaise.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Blaise poses at the entrance to the red valley.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="nancy-doorway.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy poses near the door of one of the carved churches.
+Note how thick the walls were made.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="red-valley-painting.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+View inside Kizilcukur Church, showing painted roof detail.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="red-valley-nancy.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy sits at the entrance to one of the red valley dwellings.
+<br>
+
+<p>
+At some point, the travelers hopped from the Red Valley to Rose Valley.
+Rose valley contained many amazing carved rock structures.
+</p>
+
+<img src="rose-valley.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Rose valley rock formations.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="rose-valley-nancy-jim.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy and jim pose at the entrance to Rose Valley.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="nancy-bridge.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy stands on the bridge into column church.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="column.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Column church, interior.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="blaise-carvings.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Blaise poses in front of some carved structures in Rose Valley.
+<br>
+
+<p>
+Foolishly, the travelers forgot water and food.
+They were happy to discover an oasis cafe "StarBox" which offered refreshing fruit juice and water.
+This cafe was located right under cross church, and the view into Rose Valley was amazing.
+</p>
+
+<img src="cross-church-painting.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Painting within cross church, next to StarBox.
+<br>
+
+<p>
+The travelers ultimately exited the valleys in a nearby town, and were able to catch a taxi back to their hotel.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Castle</h2>
+
+<p>
+As a last activity, the travelers visited the local castle.
+They ate lunch near the top.
+The view was amazing, even though it was raining that day.
+Nancy and Blaise paid 9 TL each to go to the top of the castle.
+It was a fairly tourist-centered area, but not many visitors were there.
+Their were camel rides available.
+</p>
+
+
+<img src="lunch.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Lunch.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="blaise-castle.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Blaise poses on top of the castle.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="camel.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Jim shows us a local camel.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan.html
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-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Erzincan & Kemah</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Erzincan & Kemah</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-
-<h3>note: historical vs modern Erzincan</h3>
-
-<p>
-Erzindjan is now north of the location as of 1907.
-When Azniv was born, Erzindjan and the surrounding area was part of Armenia.
-It was made part of Turkey in 1920 after the conclusion of WW1.
-Besides the genocide, Erzindjan is earthquake prone.
-In 1254 William Rubruck said more than 10,000 people were killed by an earthquake.
-In 1939 there was another earthquake which led to the death of 32,962.
-The old site was entirely abandoned and the town was relocated to the north.
-</p>
-
-<h3>note: family connection with Erzindjan</h3>
-
-<p>
-The following photo was taken​ in 1906,​ four years after Stepan and his family arrived in the USi.
-Standing from left to right in the back row are: Azniv/Agnes Torosian (born Shakargian, who is Nancy and Jim’s maternal grandmother)​, her brother Arshag and his wife, Nartouhi Pojojian (alternates Nartoo, Pazozian, Posozian).
-The adults sitting from left to right in the front row are Nancy and Jim’s great-grandmother, Lucien Shakargian (born Donegian), and great-grandfather, Stepan Shakargian.
-The family believes two of the children are Arshag's children but the third child may be one of the sister's, Eva Kapigian (born Shakargian) children.
-The travelers  think Azniv was born in Erzindjan proper rather than adjacent villages because: 1) they used the Turkish bath house which was a Roman ruin, 2) they had a shop where folks bought things- perhaps sugar, candy, coffee, 3) Azniv went to a school and the city had a school for girls (Chrisdinian).
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="erzincan/family-photo.png">
-  <figcaption>Shakargian family photo.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-22><a href=#2019-09-22>2019-09-22 Sunday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>arrival</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers took a 1.5 hour flight from Istanbul to Erzincan, arriving around 15:00.
-Erzincan is a medium sized city, with an official population roughly 37,000.
-The true population is twice that, with many of the undocumented being Roma.
-The airport is quite modern and nice, funded extensively by Russians.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/erzincan-airport.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Erzincan airport. <br>
-
-<p>
-The city of Erzincan has been almost entirely rebuilt since the 1939 earthquake.
-Unlike other cities visited by the travelers, the roads are clearly planned and the buildings seem quite modern.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-The hotel was quite nice, more like an apartment than a typical hotel room.
-There were two small bedrooms, a bathroom including washing machine, kitchen complete with stove, and a very large living and dining room.
-Jim and Nancy took the bedrooms, while Blaise slept on the living room couch.
-Total cost of hotel was 480 TL for two nights.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/erzincan-hotel.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Living and dining room of Erzincan hotel. <br>
-
-<h3>dinner</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers met their guide (Ahmed) and his driver.
-The driver spoke only Turkish and was not very communicative for the entire trip.
-All five enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant.
-Credit cards were a problem, but the travelers were able to withdraw cash from nearby ATMs.
-After dinner, all five visited a local bar to plan the trip.
-At the bar, Nancy enjoyed drinking special Erzincan carbonated lemon drink (Kizilay).
-</p>
-
-<h3>Tevhit Karakaya</h3>
-
-<p>
-On the flight from Istanbul to Erzincan Nancy was placed in first class for some reason.
-Nancy sat next to a local politician and business man <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tevhit_Karakaya">Tevhit Karakaya</a>.
-Tehvit was interested in Nancy's historic photos of Erzincan.
-Tevhit did not speak English, but a friend of his translated on the plane.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Tevhit invited the travelers to stop by his hotel to obtain a book of historic Erzincan photos which he himself had compiled.
-Once Ahmed heard of the Nancy's interactions with Tevhit, Ahmed called Tevhit and all were invited to meet Tevhit at his hotel.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-While at the hotel, Tevhit and his associates asked Nancy and Jim for more information regarding their Erzincan relatives.
-All enjoyed tea and special Erzincan grapes.
-The travelers needed to be instructed to eat the grape seeds, and indeed the seeds were easy to eat and even seemed to enhance the grape texture.
-The grapes were very sweet and the seeds were not at all bitter.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/with-karakaya.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-The travelers meet with Tevhit Karakaya (far right).
-Picture taken in lobby of Karakaya hotel.
-Note grapes held by Nancy. <br>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-23><a href=#2019-09-23>2019-09-23 Monday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>breakfast</h3>
-
-<p>
-At around 09:00, the travelers met with Ahmed and started their day with breakfast at a local restaurant, Siber Bilişim Sistemleri.
-It was a typical middle eastern breakfast with a large variety of options.
-The travelers enjoyed trying rose petal jam, similar to that made by Azniv Torosian and remembered as part of Nancy and Jim's childhood.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/monday-breakfast.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Jim and Nancy enjoy breakfast. <br>
-
-<h3>old Erzincan</h3>
-
-<p>
-Nancy and Jim's Grandmother (Azniv Torosian, nee Shakargian) was born in old Erzincan.
-She left in 1902 with her parents, one brother, and the brother's wife and children.
-An additional sister stayed behind as she was already married.
-Azniv was roughly 16 years old at the time.
-The travelers attempted to visit the place where Azniv and her family had lived.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Nancy's notes contained a picture of old Erzincan (1907) behind which a particular view of the mountain range could be seen.
-This was Mount Kazen Kaya.
-It was also known that old Erzincan was next to the Euphrates river.
-Since the earthquake and rebuilding, there are almost no remaining structures or clues about the position of old Erzincan.
-Still, the travelers were able to find the mountain view as seen in the old pictures, and also where the Euphrates currently flows.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="erzincan/labeled.png">
-  <figcaption>Old Erzincan.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="erzincan/old-mountains.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy and Jim pose in front of the mountain range from Nancy's notes.
-Immediately behind the photographer is the Euphrates river.
-[39.691N, 39.504E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="erzincan/erzincan-mountain-detail.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Detail of mount Kazen Kaya. <br>
-
-<h3>cemetery</h3>
-
-<p>
-Visited Muslim cemetery.
-Saw tomb of Turkish soldier that died as a suicide bomber.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/tomb.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Tomb of a Turkish soldier.
-[39.717N,39.498E] <br>
-
-<h3>drive to Kemah</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers headed to Kemah, which is about 40 miles from Erzincan by car.
-Along the way many military instillations were seen.
-The car passed through a check point, which our guide was able to talk his way through without difficulty.
-The Turkish government has military in this region due to fears of Kurdish and Syrian terrorist attacks from the south.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Along the drive, the travelers stopped at Kemah gorge, which is now used as a point of recreation (base jumping, climbing etc.)
-There is a turkish monument at this place which memorializes a truckload of soldiers that died here in a car accident on the bridge.
-One Armenian story about this place is that 30 (?) unmarried young women committed mass suicide here to avoid having to convert from Christianity to Islam.
-This gorge is 13 km from the town of Kemah.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/kemah-gorge.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Kemah gorge.
-[39.653N, 39.360E] <br>
-
-<h3>Kemah</h3>
-
-<p>
-Nancy and Jim's Great Grandmother, Azniv's mother, Lucien Donegian is believed by the travelers to have grown up in the Kemah area.
-Azniv's father, Stephan Shekargian, was living in Erzincan and traveled two days by horse to marry Lucien.
-Azniv described trips to visit Lucien's family, where wonderful stones sparkled in the sun.
-It's likely true that Lucien was from one of the several Kemah-associated villages.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Arriving in Kemah, the travelers found the location of another photograph from Nancy's notes: the Kemah Fort.
-They were able to find the exact point where the photograph was taken.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/kemah-fort-drawing.png"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-
-<img src="erzincan/kemah-ruins.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy and Jim pose in front of Kemah fort.
-[39.603N, 39.0372E] <br>
-
-<p>
-The fort was built into a mountain which gives a good view of modern Kemah.
-There were also caves that had been fortified, and an ongoing archaeological excavation.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/kemah.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Town of Kemah as seen from Kemah fort. [39.604N, 39.035E] <br>
-
-<p>
-Beside Kemah, on the other side of the Euphrates river, is a large ridge which is currently occupied by a Turkish millitary outpost.
-The travelers believe that this is the famous ridge from which 25,000 Armenians were thrown to their death between June 10 through 14, 1915.
-Oral history describes the Euphrates filled with bodies and red with blood.
-Before that time, many Armenians lived peacefully in this area.
-In 2019 the city of Kemah contains just 2000 people, all Arab.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/kemah-ridge.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Kemah ridge as seen from Kemah fort. [39.604N, 39.036E]<br>
-
-<p>
-After visiting Kemah Fort, the travelers spent some time in the Kemah city center.
-Once Ahmed suggested tea, it was remarkable how quickly the young friend was able to procure it.
-Kemah seems like a nice city, with local cats dogs and chickens.
-The town is clean and bustling with activity.
-</p>
-
-<h3>lunch</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers had lunch at a rustic outdoor restaurant called Kemah Alabalık Tesisleri.
-Specialty was trout, and delicious shepard's salad.
-The lunch featured special salt mined near Kemah.
-There was a pomegranate sauce that was excellent on the salad: nar ekşisi kalori.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/kemah-lunch.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Travelers enjoying lunch. [39.614N, 39.038E]<br>
-
-<h3>Kemeryaka</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers were interested in trying to find the exact village where Lucien Donegian grew up.
-In pursuit of this, Ahmed took them to the local village of Kemeryaka.
-There they found many village men doing construction working together to build a new brick house in the center of town.
-All shared tea and great conversation as translated by Ahmed.
-In conversation, they recommended that the travelers visit Morik.
-The crucial piece of information in recommending Morik was stories of Kurds storing their freshly caught meat in a special place near the village where Lucien lived.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/kemeryaka-group.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Travelers meet with men of Kemeryaka. [39.550N, 39.068E]<br>
-
-<h3>stone khatchkar</h3>
-
-<p>
-It seems that local Arab people believe that Armenians were some kind of treasure keepers, rich magical people of old.
-The people of Kemeryaka seem excited to show the travelers some local "mythical" signs of historic Armenian presence.
-One of the village elders jokes that when the travelers find the Armenian treasure they can split it "50/50".
-There are interesting parallels between stereotypes about Armenians and those about Jews.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-Joined by several teenage boys from Kemeryaka, the travelers drove to a place where khatchkar (crosses) have been carved into the stone by previous Armenian dwellers.
-The valley that they visited was truly beautiful, and it was powerful to see sure signs of Armenian presence.
-One of the two khatchkarkars had recently been destroyed by other treasure seekers.
-The travelers theorize that these khatchkars were used as road markers for an old mountain pass.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/khatch1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Khatchkar carved into stone. [39.546N,39.0648E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="erzincan/khatch2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Travelers discuss khatchkares.
-Note two other khatchkars on the right hand side of the photo.
-[39.544N, 39.063E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="erzincan/khatch3.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Second khatchkar, destroyed.
-[39.544N, 39.065E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="erzincan/khatch4.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Second khatchkar, detail.Note crosses above, writing below, and star or flower.
-[39.544N, 39.065E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="erzincan/khatch5.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Mountains where khatchkars were carved.
-[39.548N, 39.0648E]<br>
-
-<h3>Morik</h3>
-
-<p>
-As mentioned earlier, one unique feature of Lucien's village was their unique storage facilities for meat and cheese.
-These facilities were used by many local villages and nomadic Kurds as they were quite valuable.
-When the travelers mentioned this to the men of Kemeryaka, those men instantly agreed that the village in question was likely Morik.
-Morik's old name was Ayranpınar.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-On the way to Morik, the travelers dropped off the teenage boys from Kemeryaka and picked up an adult man Mehmet who seemed to be a local leader.
-Mehmet sat on Ahmed's lap in the front seat for the trip between villages.
-As the travelers arrived, the way into the village was blocked by cows.
-The village director's son was moving them through the main street.
-They drove to the village director's (Umit) home.
-All enjoyed an active conversation sharing the reason for visiting and the history of Lucien Donegian.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/morik-cows.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Cows on the way into Morik.
-[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="erzincan/morik-conversation.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Conversation on the deck of Umit, Morik's appointed director, home.
-Left to right pictured Ahmed, Umit, Mehmet.
-[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="erzincan/morik-son.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Son of Umit (right), and his son grandson of Umit (left) during the conversation.
-Grandson enjoying fresh tomato.
-[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
-
-<p>
-From Umit's home all rode or hiked up to the storage cave.
-Amhed's car couldn't make it all the way up because the mountain became too steep.
-Umit shared that the cave is special because the mountain makes ice there all year round.
-Currently it is mainly used for goat cheese (tulum), which develops in the cave for six months.
-There are currently 40 tons of cheese inside.
-Mehmet himself was storing cheese in the cave, despite the fact that he is from a different village.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/jim-tractor.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Jim and Mehmet riding a tractor up the mountain to visit the ice cave.
-[39.631N, 38.997E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="erzincan/morik-hole.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy, Ahmed, and Umit visit the ice cave.
-[39.631N, 38.996E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="erzincan/morik-key.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Umit showing off the key to the ice cave.
-[39.631N, 38.996E]<br>
-
-<p>
-Since the ice cave was higher up on the mountain, there was an excellent view of Morik and surroundings.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/morik-view.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View of Morik from near the ice cave.
-[39.632N, 38.997E]<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="erzincan/nancy-morik.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy with Morik in the background.
-[39.631N, 38.997E]<br>
-
-<h3>return to Erzincan</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers went first to Kemeryaka to drop off Mehmet.
-From Mehmet they bought a large amount of local goat cheese (tulum), totaling 630 TL.
-Most of this was given to Ahmed and the driver, as there was way too much to take home.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-After all this the travelers returned to their hotel in Erzincan and slept well.
-</p>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-24><a href=#2019-09-24>2019-09-24 Tuesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Euphrates</h3>
-
-<p>
-Tuesday morning Nancy washed her feet in the Euphrates river.
-After this, and breakfast, the travelers set on their way to Cappadocia.
-</p>
-
-<img src="erzincan/euphrates.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View of the Euphrates as it was when Nancy washed her feet.
-[39.701N, 39.519E]<br>
-
-</body>
-</html>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/index.html
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--- /dev/null
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+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+  <meta charset="utf-8">
+  <title>Erzincan & Kemah</title>
+  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Erzincan & Kemah</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+
+<h3>note: historical vs modern Erzincan</h3>
+
+<p>
+Erzindjan is now north of the location as of 1907.
+When Azniv was born, Erzindjan and the surrounding area was part of Armenia.
+It was made part of Turkey in 1920 after the conclusion of WW1.
+Besides the genocide, Erzindjan is earthquake prone.
+In 1254 William Rubruck said more than 10,000 people were killed by an earthquake.
+In 1939 there was another earthquake which led to the death of 32,962.
+The old site was entirely abandoned and the town was relocated to the north.
+</p>
+
+<h3>note: family connection with Erzindjan</h3>
+
+<p>
+The following photo was taken​ in 1906,​ four years after Stepan and his family arrived in the US.
+Standing from left to right in the back row are: Azniv/Agnes Torosian (born Shakargian, who is Nancy and Jim’s maternal grandmother)​, her brother Arshag and his wife, Nartouhi Pojojian (alternates Nartoo, Pazozian, Posozian).
+The adults sitting from left to right in the front row are Nancy and Jim’s great-grandmother, Lucien Shakargian (born Donegian), and great-grandfather, Stepan Shakargian.
+The family believes two of the children are Arshag's children but the third child may be one of the sister's, Eva Kapigian (born Shakargian) children.
+The travelers  think Azniv was born in Erzindjan proper rather than adjacent villages because: 1) they used the Turkish bath house which was a Roman ruin, 2) they had a shop where folks bought things- perhaps sugar, candy, coffee, 3) Azniv went to a school and the city had a school for girls (Chrisdinian).
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="family-photo.png">
+  <figcaption>Shakargian family photo.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-22><a href=#2019-09-22>2019-09-22 Sunday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>arrival</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers took a 1.5 hour flight from Istanbul to Erzincan, arriving around 15:00.
+Erzincan is a medium sized city, with an official population roughly 37,000.
+The true population is twice that, with many of the undocumented being Roma.
+The airport is quite modern and nice, funded extensively by Russians.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan-airport.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Erzincan airport. <br>
+
+<p>
+The city of Erzincan has been almost entirely rebuilt since the 1939 earthquake.
+Unlike other cities visited by the travelers, the roads are clearly planned and the buildings seem quite modern.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The travelers stayed at Hayat Home Suite in the center of town.
+The hotel was quite nice, more like an apartment than a typical hotel room.
+There were two small bedrooms, a bathroom including washing machine, kitchen complete with stove, and a very large living and dining room.
+Jim and Nancy took the bedrooms, while Blaise slept on the living room couch.
+Total cost of hotel was 480 TL for two nights.
+</p>
+
+<img src="erzincan-hotel.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Living and dining room of Erzincan hotel. <br>
+
+<h3>dinner</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers met their guide (Ahmet Cetin) and his driver.
+The driver spoke only Turkish and was not very communicative for the entire trip.
+All five enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant.
+Credit cards were a problem, but the travelers were able to withdraw cash from nearby ATMs.
+After dinner, all five visited a local bar to plan the trip.
+At the bar, Nancy enjoyed drinking special Erzincan carbonated lemon drink (Kizilay).
+</p>
+
+<h3>Tevhit Karakaya</h3>
+
+<p>
+On the flight from Istanbul to Erzincan Nancy was placed in first class for some reason.
+Nancy sat next to a local politician and business man <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tevhit_Karakaya">Tevhit Karakaya</a>.
+Tehvit was interested in Nancy's historic photos of Erzincan.
+Tevhit did not speak English, but a friend of his translated on the plane.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Tevhit invited the travelers to stop by his hotel to obtain a book of historic Erzincan photos which he himself had compiled.
+Once Ahmed heard of the Nancy's interactions with Tevhit, Ahmet called Tevhit and all were invited to meet Tevhit at his hotel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+While at the hotel, Tevhit and his associates asked Nancy and Jim for more information regarding their Erzincan relatives.
+All enjoyed tea and special Erzincan grapes.
+The travelers needed to be instructed to eat the grape seeds, and indeed the seeds were easy to eat and even seemed to enhance the grape texture.
+The grapes were very sweet and the seeds were not at all bitter.
+</p>
+
+<img src="with-karakaya.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+The travelers meet with Tevhit Karakaya (far right).
+Picture taken in lobby of Karakaya hotel.
+Note grapes held by Nancy. <br>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-23><a href=#2019-09-23>2019-09-23 Monday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>breakfast</h3>
+
+<p>
+At around 09:00, the travelers met with Ahmet and started their day with breakfast at a local restaurant, Siber Bilişim Sistemleri.
+It was a typical middle eastern breakfast with a large variety of options.
+The travelers enjoyed trying rose petal jam, similar to that made by Azniv Torosian and remembered as part of Nancy and Jim's childhood.
+</p>
+
+<img src="monday-breakfast.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Jim and Nancy enjoy breakfast. <br>
+
+<h3>old Erzincan</h3>
+
+<p>
+Nancy and Jim's Grandmother (Azniv Torosian, nee Shakargian) was born in old Erzincan.
+She left in 1902 with her parents, one brother, and the brother's wife and children.
+An additional sister stayed behind as she was already married.
+Azniv was roughly 16 years old at the time.
+The travelers attempted to visit the place where Azniv and her family had lived.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Nancy's notes contained a picture of old Erzincan (1907) behind which a particular view of the mountain range could be seen.
+This was Mount Kazen Kaya.
+It was also known that old Erzincan was next to the Euphrates river.
+Since the earthquake and rebuilding, there are almost no remaining structures or clues about the position of old Erzincan.
+Still, the travelers were able to find the mountain view as seen in the old pictures, and also where the Euphrates currently flows.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="labeled.png">
+  <figcaption>Old Erzincan.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="old-mountains.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy and Jim pose in front of the mountain range from Nancy's notes.
+Immediately behind the photographer is the Euphrates river.
+[39.691N, 39.504E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="erzincan-mountain-detail.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Detail of foothills adjacent to Mount Kazen Kaya. <br>
+
+<h3>cemetery</h3>
+
+<p>
+Travelers attempted to see the ruins of an Armenian cemetery, but were taken to a muslim cemetery instead.
+Saw tomb of a female Turkish soldier that died as a suicide bomber.
+</p>
+
+<img src="tomb.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Tomb of a Turkish soldier.
+[39.717N,39.498E] <br>
+
+<h3>drive to Kemah</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers headed to Kemah, which is about 40 miles from Erzincan by car.
+Along the way many military instillations were seen.
+The car passed through a check point, which our guide was able to talk his way through without difficulty.
+The Turkish government has military in this region due to fears of Kurdish and Syrian terrorist attacks from the south.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Along the drive, the travelers stopped at Kemah gorge, which is now used as a point of recreation (base jumping, climbing etc.)
+There is a turkish monument at this place which memorializes a truckload of soldiers that died here in a car accident on the bridge.
+This was undoubtedly one of the many places between Erzincan and Kemah where 25,000 Armenians were thrown into the Euphrates river (1915).
+This gorge is 13 km from the town of Kemah.
+</p>
+
+<img src="kemah-gorge.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Kemah gorge.
+[39.653N, 39.360E] <br>
+
+<h3>Kemah</h3>
+
+<p>
+Nancy and Jim's Great Grandmother, Azniv's mother, Lucien Donegian is believed by the travelers to have grown up in the Kemah area.
+Azniv's father, Stephan Shekargian, was living in Erzincan and traveled two days by horse to marry Lucien.
+Azniv described trips to visit Lucien's family, where wonderful stones sparkled in the sun.
+It's likely true that Lucien was from one of the several Kemah-associated villages.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Arriving in Kemah, the travelers found the location of another photograph from Nancy's notes: the Kemah Fort.
+They were able to find the exact point where the photograph was taken.
+</p>
+
+<img src="kemah-fort-drawing.png"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+
+<img src="kemah-ruins.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy and Jim pose in front of Kemah Fort.
+[39.603N, 39.0372E] <br>
+
+<p>
+The Fort was built into a mountain which gives a good view of modern Kemah.
+There were also caves that had been fortified, and an ongoing archaeological excavation.
+</p>
+
+<img src="kemah.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Town of Kemah as seen from Kemah Fort. [39.604N, 39.035E] <br>
+
+<p>
+Beside Kemah, on the other side of the Euphrates river, is a large ridge which is currently occupied by a Turkish millitary outpost.
+The travelers believe that this is the famous ridge from which 25,000 Armenians were thrown to their death between June 10 through 14, 1915.
+Oral history describes the Euphrates filled with bodies and red with blood.
+Before that time, many Armenians lived peacefully in this area.
+In 2019 the city of Kemah contains just 2000 people, all Turkish.
+</p>
+
+<img src="kemah-ridge.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Kemah ridge as seen from Kemah Fort. [39.604N, 39.036E]<br>
+
+<p>
+After visiting Kemah Fort, the travelers spent some time in the Kemah city center.
+Once Ahmet suggested tea, it was remarkable how quickly the young friend was able to procure it.
+Kemah seems like a nice city, with local cats, dogs, and chickens.
+The town is clean and bustling with activity.
+</p>
+
+<h3>lunch</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers had lunch at a rustic outdoor restaurant called Kemah Alabalık Tesisleri.
+Specialty was trout, and delicious Shepherd's Salad.
+The lunch featured special salt mined near Kemah.
+There was a pomegranate sauce that was excellent on the salad: nar ekşisi kalori.
+</p>
+
+<img src="kemah-lunch.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Travelers enjoying lunch. [39.614N, 39.038E]<br>
+
+<h3>Kemeryaka</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers were interested in trying to find the exact village where Lucien Donegian grew up.
+In pursuit of this, Ahmet took them to the local village of Kemeryaka.
+There they found many village men doing construction working together to build a new brick house in the center of town.
+All shared tea and great conversation as translated by Ahmet.
+In conversation, they recommended that the travelers visit Morik.
+The crucial piece of information in recommending Morik was Nancy's remembering that Azniv had said the place where her mother grew up had a storage area where many (including Kurds) stored their freshly caught meat.
+</p>
+
+<img src="kemeryaka-group.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Travelers meet with men of Kemeryaka. [39.550N, 39.068E]<br>
+
+<h3>stone khachkar</h3>
+
+<p>
+It seems that local Turkish people believe that Armenians were some kind of treasure keepers, rich magical people of old.
+The people of Kemeryaka seem excited to show the travelers some local "mythical" signs of historic Armenian presence.
+One of the village elders jokes that when the travelers find the Armenian treasure they can split it "50/50".
+There are interesting parallels between stereotypes about Armenians and those about Jews.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Joined by several teenage boys from Kemeryaka, the travelers drove to a place where khachkars (crosses) had been carved into the stone by previous Armenian dwellers.
+The valley that they visited was truly beautiful, and it was powerful to see sure signs of Armenian presence.
+One of the two khachkars had recently been destroyed by other treasure seekers.
+The travelers theorize that these khachkars were used as road markers for an old mountain pass.
+</p>
+
+<img src="khatch1.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Khachkar carved into stone. [39.546N,39.0648E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="khatch2.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Travelers discuss khachkares.
+Note two other khachkars on the right hand side of the photo.
+[39.544N, 39.063E] <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="khatch3.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Second khachkar, destroyed.
+[39.544N, 39.065E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="khatch4.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Second khachkar, detail.Note crosses above, writing below, and star or flower.
+[39.544N, 39.065E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="khatch5.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Mountains where khachkars were carved.
+[39.548N, 39.0648E]<br>
+
+<h3>Morik</h3>
+
+<p>
+As mentioned earlier, one unique feature of Lucien's village was their unique storage facilities for meat and cheese.
+These facilities were used by many local villages and nomadic Kurds as they were quite valuable.
+When the travelers mentioned this to the men of Kemeryaka, those men instantly agreed that the village in question was likely Morik.
+Morik's old name was Ayranpınar.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On the way to Morik, the travelers dropped off the teenage boys from Kemeryaka and picked up an adult man Mehmet who seemed to be a local leader.
+Mehmet sat on Ahmet's lap in the front seat for the trip between villages.
+As the travelers arrived, the way into the village was blocked by cows.
+The village director's son was moving them through the main street.
+They drove to the village director's (Umit) home.
+All enjoyed an active conversation sharing the reason for visiting and the history of Lucien Donegian.
+</p>
+
+<img src="morik-cows.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Cows on the way into Morik.
+[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="morik-conversation.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Conversation on the deck of Umit, Morik's appointed director, home.
+Left to right pictured Ahmet, Umit, Mehmet.
+[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="morik-son.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Son of Umit (right), and his son grandson of Umit (left) during the conversation.
+Grandson enjoying fresh tomato.
+[39.634N, 38.998E]<br>
+
+<p>
+From Umit's home all rode or hiked up to the storage cave.
+Amhed's car couldn't make it all the way up because the mountain became too steep.
+Umit shared that the cave is special because the mountain makes ice there all year round.
+Currently it is mainly used for goat cheese (tulum), which develops in the cave for six months.
+There are currently 40 tons of cheese inside.
+Mehmet himself was storing cheese in the cave, despite the fact that he is from a different village.
+</p>
+
+<img src="jim-tractor.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Jim and Mehmet riding a tractor up the mountain to visit the ice cave.
+[39.631N, 38.997E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="morik-hole.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy, Ahmet, and Umit visit the ice cave.
+[39.631N, 38.996E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="morik-key.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Umit showing off the key to the ice cave.
+[39.631N, 38.996E]<br>
+
+<p>
+Since the ice cave was higher up on the mountain, there was an excellent view of Morik and surroundings.
+</p>
+
+<img src="morik-view.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+View of Morik from near the ice cave.
+[39.632N, 38.997E]<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="nancy-morik.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy with Morik in the background.
+[39.631N, 38.997E]<br>
+
+<h3>return to Erzincan</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers went first to Kemeryaka to drop off Mehmet.
+From Mehmet they bought a large amount of local goat cheese (tulum), totaling 630 TL.
+Most of this was given to Ahmet and the driver, as there was way too much to take home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After all this the travelers returned to their hotel in Erzincan and slept well.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-24><a href=#2019-09-24>2019-09-24 Tuesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Euphrates</h3>
+
+<p>
+Tuesday morning Nancy placed her feet in the Euphrates river.
+The place she chose was not far from the 1907 location of Erzincan.
+After this, and breakfast, the travelers set on their way to Cappadocia.
+</p>
+
+<img src="euphrates.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+View of the Euphrates as it was when Nancy placed her feet.
+[39.701N, 39.519E]<br>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/morik-cows.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/erzincan/morik-cows.jpg
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diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/index.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/index.html
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--- /dev/null
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+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+  <meta charset="utf-8">
+  <title>Armenian heritage trip</title>
+  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Armenian heritage trip</h1>
+
+<p>
+In September 2019 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise took a vacation to explore their shared Armenian heritage.
+The primary purpose of this trip was to explore the old family homesteads in what is now Turkey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The exact trip of each traveler was a little bit different, as represented here.
+</p>
+
+Due to the extensive nature of this memory, it has been broken up into sections:
+<ol>
+  <li><a href="./jerusalem/">Jerusalem</a></li>
+  <li><a href="./istanbul/">Istanbul</a></li>
+  <li><a href="./erzincan/">Erzincan & Kemah</a></li>
+  <li><a href="./cappadocia/">Cappadocia</a></li>
+  <li><a href="./kayseri-develi/">Kayseri & Develi</a></li>
+</ol>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul.html
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+++ /dev/null
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-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Armenian heritage trip</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Istanbul</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Nancy, James Jerusalem to Istanbul</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers met a cab at the Jaffa gate with their luggage and drove to Tel Aviv.
-They drove through sections which showed the barriers between Palestine and Israel with long lines of people waiting to go to work on busses.
-They flew to Istanbul and caught a cab driving to Istanbul.
-This is a distance of about 60 miles.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-It is good that the airport  has many moving sidewalks because the place is HUGE.
-It took the travelers  a long time to get from the place where they debarked the plane to the place where they collected their luggage, went through security and found a cab.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/airport-walkway.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Istanbul Airport walkway.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Istanbul Overview</h3>
-
-<p>
-Istanbul is a popular place to visit with a long and important history.
-The travelers wanted to experience this place and gain some understanding of what life may have been like for Yesia when he lived there.
-Yesia  began working in Istanbul when he was 13 and lived there until he was 17 when he immigrated to the US (1900) due to Turkish fear of Armenian revolutionaries.
-</p>
-
-<h3>Basileus Hotel</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers arrived at <a href=https://www.basileushotel.com/>Basileus Hotel</a>, their home away from home in Istanbul.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/basileus-exterior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Basileus exterior.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/basileus-nancy.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Nancy naps in her Basileus bed.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Istanbul first reactions</h3>
-
-<p>
-There seem to be lots of dogs and cats roaming the streets.
-It appeared that they were all fed and perhaps even vaccinated.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/dogs.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Public Istanbul dogs.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-The travelers enjoyed turkish delight candy.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/turkish-delight.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Turkish delight being sold at a local shop.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-Hagia Sophia at sunset was a special sight.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/hagia-sophia-sunset.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Hagia Sophia at sunset.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-The travelers took dinner at 3 Partners restaurant.
-Both Jim and Nancy had an entire bowl (meant to be for dipping) of jajikh.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/three-partners.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Dinner at 3 Partners restaurant.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-19><a href=#2019-09-19>2019-09-19 Thursday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>breakfast</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers learned that Turkish breakfast is quite different from "continental style".
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/breakfast.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Basileus hotel breakfast.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Sultan's Palace</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers visited the <a href=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topkap%C4%B1_Palace>Sultan's Palace</a>.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sultan-wall.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Outer wall of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sultan-gate.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Inner gate of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sultan-model.jpg">
-  <figcaption>3D model of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sultan-pebbles.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Pebble art at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sultan-wall-detail.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Interesting wall detail at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sultan-tile-ceiling.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Tile ceiling in one of the Kiosks on the property.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/harem-building.jpg">
-  <figcaption>The Harem building on the sultan’s property.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sultan-toilet.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Toilet for the sultan's mother.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sultan-lighting.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Interesting lighting.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sultan-fireplace.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Fireplace in the Sultan’s bedroom.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sultan-bedroom-window.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Sultan's bedroom window.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sultan-drainage.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Fancy drainage system.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Harant Dink foundation</h3>
-
-<p>
-After lunch the travelers  undertook to find the offices of the <a href=https://hrantdink.org/tr/>Hrant Dink Organization</a> located on the Asian side of Istanbul.
-They had the address but had trouble finding it.
-Finally they did find it with the help of Jim’s phone GPS and a hand drawn map by a tattoo artist who worked in a shop nearby.
-Once there, they  were given helpful information about visiting Istanbul, Kayseri and Erzindjan.
-The staff were interested in the fact that the travelers  were visiting Develi in an attempt to see where the property Yesia inherited  may have been.
-Evidently this organization is in the process of suing the Turkish government  which claims that Armenians who left Turkey before the genocide as Turkish citizens should be entitled to 	reparations.
-We do not intend to be part of this lawsuit, but we wonder if Turkish documents about Yesia might have indicated if he was a Turkish citizen when he left in 1900.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-After spending the afternoon in this way, the travelers enjoyed a nice dinner before bed.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/nancy-dinner.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Nancy enjoys dinner.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-20><a href=#2019-09-20>2019-09-20 Friday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Basillica cistern</h3>
-
-<p>
-Jim and Nancy tour The Basilica Cistern- used by Romans to bring water via aquaducts to the city.
-7000 slaves dug the hole (9 feet deep, 140 feet long and 70 feet wide) in 9 months.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/cistern-columns.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Many columns, some reused from other places.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/weeping-column.jpg">
-  <figcaption>The weeping column- dedicated to the many workers died in the process of constructing the place.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Armenian district</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/coffee-sand.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Making Turkish coffee in sand.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/steps.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Steep colored steps on a street.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/fixer-upper.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Lots of fixer-uppers.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/sweat-shop.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Sweat shops are in the basements of various businesses.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/armenian-church-exterior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church exterior.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/armenian-church-interior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church interior.
-  Lit two candles for Azniv here.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/armenian-church-caretaker.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church caretaker.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/shoes.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Many, many shoe businesses, as there where when Yesia worked for his shoemaker uncle.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Blaise travels Madison to Istanbul</h3>
-
-<p>
-Blaise left Madison mid-afternoon Wisconsin time, traveling to Istanbul to meet Nancy and Jim.
-This involved a short flight Madison → Chicago, an ~11 hour flight Chicago → Istanbul, and a hour long bus ride to get downtown.
-The most remarkable experience was the Turkish Airlines flight, which involved an unprecedented level of hospitality.
-Every passenger was given two excellent meals, blanket, pillow, eye masks, slippers, headphones, and seemingly countless other little amenities.
-It's easy to see how Turkish Airlines got its reputation.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190919_201715.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Turkish Airlines airplane that took Blaise from Chicago to Istanbul. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190919_224234.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Dinner served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
-<ul>
-  <li>chicken breast, penne, zucchini, eggplant</li>
-  <li>fried eggplant and green pepper, tomato, white cheese</li>
-  <li>salad with prawn</li>
-  <li>lemonade with fresh mint</li>
-</ul>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190920_055602.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Breakfast served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
-<ul>
-  <li>fresh fruit salad</li>
-  <li>assorted cheese</li>
-  <li>salad with prawn</li>
-  <li>scrambled egg with cheese, mushrooms, potatoes, grilled tomato</li>
-  <li>fresh bread, butter, jam</li>
-  <li>coffee</li>
-</ul>
-
-<p>
-Arriving in Istanbul (early evening Istanbul time), Blaise was greeted by Nancy and Jim at the bus stop.
-Blaise was able to unpack before the three of them had a very nice meal at the restaurant across the street.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/blaise-nancy-meet.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Blaise and Nancy meet.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/friday-dinner.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Travelers enjoy dinner at a local restaraunt.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-21><a href=#2019-09-21>2019-09-21 Saturday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Morning Walk</h3>
-
-<p>
-Nancy and Blaise started the morning with a walk along the Sea of Marmara, near the hotel.
-They saw divers with harpoons, fishermen, cats and dogs near the sea.
-After walking along the water for roughly 30 minutes, they turned around and returned to the hotel through the city.
-This included passing through the seafood restaurant area, several blocks worth of just seafood restaurants.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_091946.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View of the Marmara sea. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_092759.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Seafood restaurant district. Early in the morning, so most restaurants are closed. <br>
-
-<h3>Hagia Sophia</h3>
-
-<p>
-At 10:30 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided tour of Hagia Sophia.
-On the way, they explored the Hippodrome and saw the Alman Çeşmesi.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_103539.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Alman Çeşmesi, exterior. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_103650.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Alman Çeşmesi, interior. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_103904.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Hagia Sophia as seen from the Hippodrome. <br>
-<br>
-
-<p>
-Their guide was from Bulgaria, with a mother born in Erzincan.
-There was a long line to enter into Hagia Sophia, but once inside it wasn't too crowded.
-The entire building is under constant restoration, exterior and interior.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_113821.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Hagia Sophpia exterior, detail. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_115354.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Outer corridor. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_115510.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-View of inner corridor, detail of main door only to be used by emperors.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_120536.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Internal sanctuary of Hagia Sophia.
-The top dome has 40 windows.
-One of the triangular pendentives can be seen, a large architectural innovation at the time.
-Much is under restoration.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_123241.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Interior shot of Hagia Sophia, featuring stained glass windows.
-The door-like structure is oriented towards Mecca for Muslim prayer.
-The lamps were placed low to the ground so that they could be lit as candles. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_123247.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Special stairway used by Muslims for delivering messages to congregation. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_125241.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Interior of Hagia Sophia, featuring column detail and special lamp.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_124354.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Interior of Hagia Sophia, focusing on angel artwork.
-Muslims believe that all faces must be covered in worship areas.
-The face of this angel was covered when Hagia Sophia became a mosque.<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_124646.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Looking out from Hagia Sophia.
-In the distance, the minarets of the blue mosque can be seen. <br>
-<br>
-
-<h3>Bazaars of Istanbul</h3>
-
-<p>
-After Hagia Sophia Nancy, Jim, and Blaise toured the streets of Istanbul including several bazaars.
-First, they visited the grand bazzar.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_143225.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-One of the entrances to Istanbul's grand bazaar. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_143515.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Jim and Blaise inside the grand bazaar. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_143622.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Lighting store inside the grand bazaar. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_153435.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Water closet of the grand bazaar.
-All toilets were pay-to-enter.
-They were squat toilets.<br>
-
-<p>
-Then the spice market, a smaller bazaar near Galata Bridge with a focus on spices and food.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_160321.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-The spice market. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_160401.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy and Blaise at the spice market. <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_160535.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Large chunks of turkish delight being displayed at the spice market. <br>
-
-<p>
-There were even markets in unexpected places, such as this one which they stumbled upon in a tunnel underneath the interstate.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190921_161210.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A bazaar located in a tunnel under the interstate.
-<br>
-
-
-<h3>Bosophorus boat tour</h3>
-
-<p>
-At 17:00 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided boat tour of the Bosophorus straight.
-</p>
-
-<img src="istanbul/IMG_20190922_093007.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Bosophorus tour route. <br>
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/dolmabahce.jpg">
-  <figcaption>View of Dolmabahce from the Bosphorus.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/boat-selfie.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Travelers pose during the Bosophorus boat tour.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>dinner</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/bridge-dinner.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Nancy and Blaise enjoy the view during dinner.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="istanbul/bridge.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Bridge with restaurants on, where travelers ate.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-</body>
-</html>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul/index.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/istanbul/index.html
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@@ -0,0 +1,533 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+  <meta charset="utf-8">
+  <title>Istanbul</title>
+  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Istanbul</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Nancy, James Jerusalem to Istanbul</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers flew from Telaviv to Istanbul and caught a cab.
+The cab ride covered a distance of about 60 miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is good that the airport  has many moving sidewalks because the place is HUGE.
+It took the travelers  a long time to get from the places where they debarked the plane to the place where they collected their luggage, went through security and found a cab.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="airport-walkway.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Istanbul Airport walkway.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Istanbul Overview</h3>
+
+<p>
+Istanbul is a popular place to visit with a long and important history.
+The travelers wanted to experience this place and gain some understanding of what life may have been like for Yesia when he lived there.
+Yesia  began working in Istanbul when he was 13 and lived there until he was 17 when he immigrated to the US (1900) due to Turkish fear of Armenian revolutionaries.
+</p>
+
+<h3>Basileus Hotel</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers arrived at <a href=https://www.basileushotel.com/>Basileus Hotel</a>, their home away from home in Istanbul.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="basileus-exterior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Basileus exterior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="basileus-nancy.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Nancy naps in her Basileus bed.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Istanbul first reactions</h3>
+
+<p>
+There seem to be lots of dogs and cats roaming the streets.
+It appeared that they were all fed and perhaps even vaccinated.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="dogs.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Public Istanbul dogs.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers enjoyed turkish delight candy.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="turkish-delight.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Turkish delight being sold at a local shop.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Hagia Sophia at sunset was a special sight.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="hagia-sophia-sunset.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Hagia Sophia at sunset.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers had dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant.
+Both Jim and Nancy had an entire bowl (meant to be for dipping) of jajikh.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="three-partners.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Dinner at 3 Partners Restaurant.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-19><a href=#2019-09-19>2019-09-19 Thursday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>breakfast</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers learned that Turkish breakfast is quite different from "continental style".
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="breakfast.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Basileus hotel breakfast.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Sultan's Palace</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited the <a href=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topkap%C4%B1_Palace>Sultan's Palace</a>.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sultan-wall.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Outer wall of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sultan-gate.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Inner gate of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sultan-model.jpg">
+  <figcaption>3D model of Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sultan-pebbles.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Pebble art at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sultan-wall-detail.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Interesting wall detail at Sultan's Palace.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sultan-tile-ceiling.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Tile ceiling in one of the kiosks on the property.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="harem-building.jpg">
+  <figcaption>The Harem building on the sultan’s property.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sultan-toilet.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Toilet for the sultan's mother.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sultan-lighting.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Interesting lighting.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sultan-fireplace.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Fireplace in the Sultan’s bedroom.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sultan-bedroom-window.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Sultan's bedroom window.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sultan-drainage.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Fancy drainage system.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Hrant Dink Foundation</h3>
+
+<p>
+After lunch the travelers  undertook to find the offices of the <a href=https://hrantdink.org/tr/>Hrant Dink Organization</a> located on the Asian side of Istanbul.
+They had the address but had trouble finding it.
+Finally they did find it with the help of Jim’s phone GPS and a hand drawn map by a tattoo artist who worked in a shop nearby.
+Once there, they  were given helpful information about visiting Istanbul, Kayseri and Erzindjan.
+The staff were interested in the fact that the travelers were visiting Develi in an attempt to see where the property Yesia inherited  may have been.
+Evidently this organization is in the process of suing the Turkish government  which claims that Armenians who left Turkey before the genocide as Turkish citizens should be entitled to reparations.
+They do not intend to be part of this lawsuit, but wonder if Turkish documents about Yesia might have indicated if he was a Turkish citizen when he left in 1900.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After spending the afternoon in this way, the travelers enjoyed a nice dinner before bed.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="nancy-dinner.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Nancy enjoys dinner.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-20><a href=#2019-09-20>2019-09-20 Friday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Basilica Cistern</h3>
+
+<p>
+Jim and Nancy tour The Basilica Cistern- used by Romans to bring water via aquaducts to the city.
+7000 slaves dug the hole (9 feet deep, 140 feet long and 70 feet wide) in 9 months.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="cistern-columns.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Many columns, some reused from other places.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="weeping-column.jpg">
+  <figcaption>The weeping column- dedicated to the many workers died in the process of constructing the place.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Armenian district</h3>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="coffee-sand.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Making Turkish coffee in sand.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="steps.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Steep colored steps on a street.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="fixer-upper.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Lots of fixer-uppers.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="sweat-shop.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Sweat shops are in the basements of various businesses.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="armenian-church-exterior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church exterior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="armenian-church-interior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church interior.
+  Lit two candles for Azniv here.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="armenian-church-caretaker.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Armenian Protestant Church caretaker.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="shoes.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Many, many shoe businesses, as there where when Yesia worked for his shoemaker uncle.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Blaise travels Madison to Istanbul</h3>
+
+<p>
+Blaise left Madison mid-afternoon Wisconsin time, traveling to Istanbul to meet Nancy and Jim.
+This involved a short flight Madison → Chicago, an ~11 hour flight Chicago → Istanbul, and a hour long bus ride to get downtown.
+The most remarkable experience was the Turkish Airlines flight, which involved an unprecedented level of hospitality.
+Every passenger was given two excellent meals, blanket, pillow, eye masks, slippers, headphones, and seemingly countless other little amenities.
+It's easy to see how Turkish Airlines got its reputation.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190919_201715.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Turkish Airlines airplane that took Blaise from Chicago to Istanbul. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190919_224234.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Dinner served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
+<ul>
+  <li>chicken breast, penne, zucchini, eggplant</li>
+  <li>fried eggplant and green pepper, tomato, white cheese</li>
+  <li>salad with prawn</li>
+  <li>lemonade with fresh mint</li>
+</ul>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190920_055602.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Breakfast served to Blaise by Turkish Airlines:
+<ul>
+  <li>fresh fruit salad</li>
+  <li>assorted cheese</li>
+  <li>salad with prawn</li>
+  <li>scrambled egg with cheese, mushrooms, potatoes, grilled tomato</li>
+  <li>fresh bread, butter, jam</li>
+  <li>coffee</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>
+Arriving in Istanbul (early evening Istanbul time), Blaise was greeted by Nancy and Jim at the bus stop.
+Blaise was able to unpack before the three of them had a very nice meal at the restaurant across the street.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="blaise-nancy-meet.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Blaise and Nancy meet.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="friday-dinner.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Travelers enjoy dinner at a local restaraunt.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-21><a href=#2019-09-21>2019-09-21 Saturday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Morning Walk</h3>
+
+<p>
+Nancy and Blaise started the morning with a walk along the Sea of Marmara, near the hotel.
+They saw divers with harpoons, fishermen, cats and dogs near the sea.
+After walking along the water for roughly 30 minutes, they turned around and returned to the hotel through the city.
+This included passing through the seafood restaurant area, several blocks worth of just seafood restaurants.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_091946.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+View of the Marmara sea. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_092759.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Seafood restaurant district. Early in the morning, so most restaurants are closed. <br>
+
+<h3>Hagia Sophia</h3>
+
+<p>
+At 10:30 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided tour of Hagia Sophia.
+On the way, they explored the Hippodrome and saw the Alman Çeşmesi.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_103539.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Alman Çeşmesi, exterior. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_103650.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Alman Çeşmesi, interior. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_103904.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Hagia Sophia as seen from the Hippodrome. <br>
+<br>
+
+<p>
+Their guide was from Bulgaria, with a mother born in Erzincan.
+There was a long line to enter into Hagia Sophia, but once inside it wasn't too crowded.
+The entire building is under constant restoration, exterior and interior.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_113821.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Hagia Sophpia exterior, detail. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_115354.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Outer corridor. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_115510.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+View of inner corridor, detail of main door only to be used by emperors.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_120536.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Internal sanctuary of Hagia Sophia.
+The top dome has 40 windows.
+One of the triangular pendentives can be seen, a large architectural innovation to support heavy domes.
+Much is under restoration.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_123241.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Interior shot of Hagia Sophia, featuring stained glass windows.
+The door-like structure is oriented towards Mecca for Muslim prayer.
+The lamps were placed low to the ground so that they could be lit as candles. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_123247.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Special stairway used by Muslim imans for delivering messages to congregation. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_125241.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Interior of Hagia Sophia, featuring column detail and special lamp.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_124354.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Interior of Hagia Sophia, focusing on angel artwork.
+Muslims believe that all faces must be covered in worship areas.
+The face of this angel was covered when Hagia Sophia became a mosque.<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_124646.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Looking out from Hagia Sophia.
+In the distance, the minarets of the blue mosque can be seen. <br>
+<br>
+
+<h3>Bazaars of Istanbul</h3>
+
+<p>
+After Hagia Sophia Nancy, Jim, and Blaise toured the streets of Istanbul including several bazaars.
+First, they visited the Grand Bazzar.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_143225.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+One of the entrances to Istanbul's Grand Bazaar. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_143515.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Jim and Blaise inside the Grand Bazaar. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_143622.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Lighting store inside the Grand Bazaar. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_153435.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Water closet at the Grand Bazaar.
+All toilets were pay-to-enter.
+They were squat toilets.<br>
+
+<p>
+Then the spice market, a smaller bazaar near Galata Bridge with a focus on spices and food.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_160321.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+The Spice Market. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_160401.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy and Blaise at the Spice Market. <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_160535.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Large chunks of turkish delight being displayed at the Spice Market. <br>
+
+<p>
+There were even markets in unexpected places, such as this one which they stumbled upon in a tunnel underneath the interstate.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190921_161210.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+A bazaar located in a tunnel under the interstate.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Bosphorus boat tour</h3>
+
+<p>
+At 17:00 Nancy, Jim, and Blaise went on a guided boat tour of the Bosphorus straight.
+</p>
+
+<img src="IMG_20190922_093007.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Bosphorus tour route. <br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="dolmabahce.jpg">
+  <figcaption>View of Dolmabahce Palace from the Bosphorus.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="boat-selfie.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Travelers pose during the Bosphorus boat tour.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>dinner</h3>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="bridge-dinner.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Nancy and Blaise enjoy the view during dinner.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="bridge.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Wharf where the travelers ate dinner.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html
deleted file mode 100644
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--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/jerusalem.html
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,521 +0,0 @@
-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Jerusalem</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Jerusalem</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-13><a href=#2019-09-13>2019-09-13 Friday</a></h2>
-
-<p>
-Nancy and Jim travel to Tel Aviv.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/airplane.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Jim's plane in SanFrancisco.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/staff.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Turkish Airlines staff in SanFransisco.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-Assistance of United Staff helped Nancy find how to get to Terminal 5 at O’Hare and reach the plane going to Istanbul.
-On the plane, she had the assistance of Bosnian couple in knowing how to work the various technology at her seat.
-Had wanted to watch the movie “The Guernsey Literary…” and it was available for free on this flight.
-</p>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-14><a href=#2019-09-14>2019-09-14 Saturday</a></h2>
-
-<p>
-Arrive Istanbul, fly to TelAviv.
-Arrive TelAviv, shuttle to Jerusalem.
-The travelers avoided an accident when the shuttle bus was squeezed between a bluff and another bus.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/istanbul-airport.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Terminal in Istanbul.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-In the Istanbul airport, Nancy had the assistance of a couple from Pakistan living in Indiana in knowing how to read the departure board and establish phone and wifi connection in the airport so she could rendezvous with Jim.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/airplane-selfie.jpg">
-  <figcaption>The travelers take a selfie on the airplane from Istanbul to TelAviv.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/istanbul-night.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Istanbul at night, from the airplane.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<p>
-As the travelers were entering Jerusalem, they were almost in an accident when the shuttle bus was squeezed between a bus and a bluff.
-The shuttle bus dropped the travelers off in Jerusalem at midnight- Damascus gate- about 10 minutes away from the hotel.
-The streets were dark and empty.
-Use of global app and phone flashlight enabled them to walk to the hotel in the Old City in the dark with their luggage.
-Nancy’s main suitcase was still to come.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/damascus-gate.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Damascus gate.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/hotel-doors.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Hotel doors.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/hotel-interior.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Hotel interior.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/jerusalem-map.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A map of Jerusalem's old city.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-15><a href=#2019-09-15>2019-09-15 Sunday</a></h2>
-
-<p>
-Not having connected with the contact person, George Hintlian, the travelers explored the Old City on their own.
-Many of the things they saw were seen again in more detail on Monday and Tuesday with George.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/shops.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Shop along the alleyways in Old City Jerusalem.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
-
-<p>
-Church of the Holy Sepulchre - believed to be the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and tomb and resurrection.
-Currently occupied by the main denominations sharing property of the church are the Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic, and to a lesser degree the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/de/Plan_of_the_Church_of_the_Holy_Sepulchre_and_adjacent_structures_in_Jerusalem_-_Chrysanthus_of_Bursa_-_1807.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Footprint. Chrysanthus of Bursa [Public domain]</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/sepulchre-exterior.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Holy Sepulchre exterior.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/sepulchre-interior.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Holy Sepulchre interior.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/sepulchre-dome.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Holy Sepulchre dome.
-<br>
-
-<h3>lunch</h3>
-
-<p>
-Gouged badly, learned to see menu with prices first, Nancy was not feeling too well.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/sunday-lunch.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy enjoys Lunch.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Wailing Wall</h3>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/wailing-stands.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Stands to hold prayer material.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/wailing-men.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Wailing Wall men's side.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/wailing-special.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Special area which is covered (men's side).
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/wailing-washing.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Handwashing area for use before approaching the wall.</figcaption>
-<figure>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/wailing-women.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Wailing Wall women's side.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/tamia-prayer.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy delivered a prayer from Tamia and left it in the wailing wall.
-<br>
-
-<p>
-After viewing the Wailing Wall, the travelers walked back to the hotel to take a nap.
-Needed to recover after long trip from USA to Israel.
-</p>
-
-<h3>Armenian quarter & St. James' Cathedral</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/armenian-statuary.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Statuary in the courtyard of St. James' Cathedral.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/armenian-seminary.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Monastery/seminary in the Armenian quarter
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/genocide-poster.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Reminder of the genocide.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/armenian-patriarchate.jpg">
-  <figccaption>Street sign labeling head of the Armenian Apostolic group in Jerusalem.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>dinner, end of day</h3>
-
-<p>
-The Travelers ate dinner at Bulghourji Restaurant which served Armenian food.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/sunday-dinner.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Dinner.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/shops-closed.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Shops closed at the end of the day.
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/hotel-roof-night.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Night view from hotel rooftop.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-16><a href=#2019-09-16>2019-09-16 Monday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>morning</h3>
-
-<p>
-Monday morning, with help of hotel staff, Nancy's luggage was found.
-The day included times when the travelers were with George and times when they were on their own.
-</p>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/hotel-roof-sunrise.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Sunrise from hotel rooftop.
-<br>
-
-<h3>Dome of the Rock</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers visited the Dome of the Rock.
-Nancy had previously visited in 1969 (50 years prior).
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/dome-1.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/dome-2.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/dome-3.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Santa Anna Church</h3>
-
-<p>
-Next to Bethesda ruins.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/santa-anna.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Bethsada pool</h3>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/bethesda-1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/bethesda-2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-
-<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers walked the rampart wall from Jaffa gate to Zion gate.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/armenian-cemetery.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Armenian cemetery.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/rampart-1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="jerusalem/rampart-2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<br>
-
-<h3>David's Tower</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers toured David's Tower, where there are 21 layers of history.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
- <img src="jerusalem/21-layers.jpg">
- <figcaption>21 layers of history at David's tower.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>meet with George at Christ's church café</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers met with <a href=https://openjlem.hypotheses.org/1192>George Hintlian</a>.
-Following are two audio recordings from that meeting.
-</p>
-
-TODO: audio 1
-TODO: audio 2
-
-<p>
-The travelers looked more carefully with George for information about Miriam Torosian (n.e.e. Jerahian).
-They want to see if there are records that she was born or married in Jerusalem.
-They found no records.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/miriam.png">
-  <figcaption>Torosian family photo.
-    Left to right, Miram, John, and John's wife Paroos (n.e.e. Takousian).
-    Picture was probably taken in 1912 when John and Paroos were married.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at St. James'</h3>
-
-<p>
-George showed them St. James' church.
-Nancy shared the family's Armenian table grace with George, who was touched.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
- <img src="jerusalem/st-james-1.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at Gulbenkian Library</h3>
-
-<p>
-Besides exploring our data about Miriam Jerahian, George was also interested in their data about Grandpa’s property in Turkey.
-He read the English and Turkish papers
-</p>
-
-TODO: George third audio.
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/gulbenkian.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers returned to CHS and met with George again.
-Ability to see special place in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre along with Canadian officials guided by George.
-Recent research affirms that this place was the place where Jesus’ tomb was.
-A YouTube video on this issue may be found <a href=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uuZ-C7nmj4>here</a>.
-This counters research (Talpoit tomb) which concluded that Jesus’ body and family tomb had been found about three miles away from the CHS.
-</p>
-
-TODO: George fourth audio.
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-gate.jpg">
-  <figcaption>the gate to the basement of the CHS</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-george.jpg">
-  <figcaption>George explaining the recent research.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-research1.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-research2.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-dynamics.jpg">
-  <figcaption>George giving details about the dynamics of the various groups occupying the CHS .</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/CHS-ladder.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Note ladder.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>dinner with George</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/dinner-george.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-17><a href=#2019-09-17>2019-09-17 Tuesday</a></h2>
-
-<p>
-Nancy’s luggage was finally delivered to the hotel by staff who had to walk to another hotel outside the wall to get it.
-</p>
-
-<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers walked the wall Jaffa Gate to Damascus Gate.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/from-wall.jpg">
-  <figcaption>View of Jerusalem from the wall.</h3>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Israeli Museum</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers viewed the dead sea scrolls at the Israeli Museum, which is outside the Old City.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/dead-sea-scroll.jpg">
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at the Armenian Apostolic church office</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/george-nancy-book.jpg">
-  <figcaption>George and Nancy look for information about Miriam Jarahian.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at the Gulbenkian Library</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/walk-to-library.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Walking to the Gulbenkian library in the Armenian quarter.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>time with George at Armenian Cemetery</h3>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="jerusalem/cemetery-selfie.jpg">
-  <figcaption>George,Nancy and Jim standing in the cemetery of the Armenian quarter in front of a memorial to Armenian soldiers who fought post 1918.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>wrapping up with George</h3>
-
-<p>
-The afternoon before the travelers left Israel for Turkey, George shared that they should not take the original paperwork (English and Turkish) about Yesia’s inherited property to Turkey.
-He offered to keep it for them until he could get it to Jim via a trusted person.
-The travelers followed George’s advice and were glad they did.
-Because in Turkey they had three experiences which could have placed them in a position they did not intend to be in while there.
-First, when they met with the Hrant Dink staff in Istanbul, they wanted to know if Yesia had been a Turkish citizen when he left Turkey in 1900 because they had a law suit against Turkey showing that such citizens may have been entitled to property.
-Second, they had an unexpected interaction with a national Turkish politician in Erzindjan and a semi-expected interaction with a local Turkish official in Develi.
-Both wanted to know about possible property implications of their visit.
-For all three instances they were grateful that they did not have these papers with them.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-They had a second dinner with George during which they had candid discussion of politics in Armenia, Israel and Turkey.
-</p>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>depart</h3>
-
-<p>
-Meet taxi at Christ Church.
-Drove to airport seeing divide of Palestine.
-</p>
-
-</body>
-</html>
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+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+  <meta charset="utf-8">
+  <title>Jerusalem</title>
+  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Jerusalem</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-13><a href=#2019-09-13>2019-09-13 Friday</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Nancy and Jim travel to Tel Aviv.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="airplane.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Jim's plane in SanFrancisco.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="staff.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Turkish Airlines staff in San Francisco.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Assistance of United staff helped Nancy find how to get to Terminal 5 at O’Hare and reach the plane going to Istanbul.
+On the plane, she had the assistance of a Bosnian couple in knowing how to work the various technology at her seat.
+Had wanted to watch the movie “The Guernsey Literary…” and it was available for free on this flight.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-14><a href=#2019-09-14>2019-09-14 Saturday</a></h2>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="istanbul-airport.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Terminal in Istanbul.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+In the Istanbul airport, Nancy had the assistance of a couple from Pakistan living in Indiana in knowing how to read the departure board and establish phone and wifi connection in the airport so she could rendezvous with Jim.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="airplane-selfie.jpg">
+  <figcaption>The travelers take a selfie on the airplane from Istanbul to TelAviv.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="istanbul-night.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Istanbul at night, from the airplane.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<p>
+As the travelers were entering Jerusalem, they were almost in an accident when the shuttle bus was squeezed between a bus and a bluff.
+The shuttle bus dropped the travelers off in Jerusalem at midnight- Damascus gate- about 10 minutes away from the hotel.
+The streets were dark and empty.
+Use of global app and phone flashlight enabled them to walk to the hotel in the Old City in the dark with their luggage.
+Nancy’s main suitcase was still to come.
+</p>
+
+<img src="damascus-gate.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Damascus gate.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="hotel-doors.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Hotel doors.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="hotel-interior.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Hotel interior.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="jerusalem-map.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+A map of Jerusalem's old city.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-15><a href=#2019-09-15>2019-09-15 Sunday</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Not having connected with the contact person, George Hintlian, the travelers explored the Old City on their own.
+Many of the things they saw were seen again in more detail on Monday and Tuesday with George.
+</p>
+
+<img src="shops.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Shop along the alleyways in Old City Jerusalem.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
+
+<p>
+Church of the Holy Sepulchre - believed to be the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and resurrection.
+Currently occupied by several christian groups: Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic, and to a lesser degree the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/de/Plan_of_the_Church_of_the_Holy_Sepulchre_and_adjacent_structures_in_Jerusalem_-_Chrysanthus_of_Bursa_-_1807.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Footprint. Chrysanthus of Bursa [Public domain]</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="sepulchre-exterior.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Holy Sepulchre exterior.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="sepulchre-interior.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Holy Sepulchre interior.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="sepulchre-dome.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Holy Sepulchre dome.
+<br>
+
+<h3>lunch</h3>
+
+<img src="sunday-lunch.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy and Jim enjoyed lunch, but they realized that they were gouged badly when the bill came.
+They learned to look at a menu with prices before ordering.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Wailing Wall</h3>
+
+<img src="wailing-stands.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Stands to hold prayer material.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="wailing-men.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Wailing Wall men's side.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="wailing-special.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Special area which is covered (men's side).
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="wailing-washing.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Handwashing area for use before approaching the wall.</figcaption>
+<figure>
+
+<img src="wailing-women.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Wailing Wall women's side.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="tamia-prayer.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy delivered a prayer from Tamia and left it in the wailing wall.
+<br>
+
+<p>
+After viewing the Wailing Wall, the travelers walked back to the hotel to take a nap.
+Needed to recover after long trip from USA to Israel.
+</p>
+
+<h3>Armenian Quarter & St. James' Cathedral</h3>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="armenian-statuary.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Statuary in the courtyard of St. James' Cathedral.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="armenian-seminary.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Monastery/seminary in the Armenian Quarter
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="genocide-poster.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Reminder of the genocide.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="armenian-patriarchate.jpg">
+  <figccaption>Street sign indicates that the Patriarchate of the Armenian Orthodox Church resides in this Quarter.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>dinner, end of day</h3>
+
+<p>
+The Travelers ate dinner at Bulghourji Restaurant which served Armenian food.
+</p>
+
+<img src="sunday-dinner.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Dinner.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="shops-closed.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Shops closed at the end of the day.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="hotel-roof-night.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Night view from hotel rooftop.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-16><a href=#2019-09-16>2019-09-16 Monday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>morning</h3>
+
+<p>
+Monday morning, with help of hotel staff, Nancy's luggage was found.
+The day included times when the travelers were with George and times when they were on their own.
+</p>
+
+<img src="hotel-roof-sunrise.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Sunrise from hotel rooftop.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Dome of the Rock</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited the Dome of the Rock.
+Nancy had previously visited in 1969 (50 years prior).
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="dome-1.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="dome-2.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="dome-3.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Santa Anna Church</h3>
+
+<p>
+Next to Bethesda ruins.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="santa-anna.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Bethesda pool</h3>
+
+<img src="bethesda-1.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers walked the rampart wall from Jaffa gate to Zion gate.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="armenian-cemetery.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Armenian cemetery.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="rampart-1.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="rampart-2.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+<br>
+
+<h3>David's Tower</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited this museum, which describes the 21 layers of history in Jerusalem.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="21-layers.jpg">
+ <figcaption>21 layers of history at david's tower.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>meet with George at Christ's church café</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers met with <a href=https://openjlem.hypotheses.org/1192>George Hintlian</a>.
+Following are two audio recordings from that meeting.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio1.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio2.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers looked more carefully with George for information about Miriam Torosian (n.e.e. Jerahian).
+They wanted to see if there are records that she was born or married in Jerusalem.
+They found no records.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="miriam.png">
+  <figcaption>Torosian family photo.
+    Left to right, Miram, John, and John's wife Paroos (n.e.e. Takousian).
+    Picture was probably taken in 1912 when John and Paroos were married.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at St. James'</h3>
+
+<p>
+George showed them St. James' Cathedral.
+Nancy shared the family's Armenian table grace with George, who was touched.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="st-james-1.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at Gulbenkian Library</h3>
+
+<p>
+Besides exploring our data about Miriam Jerahian, George was also interested in their data about Grandpa’s property in Turkey.
+He read the English and Turkish papers
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio3.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="gulbenkian.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers returned to the CHS with George.
+He included them in showing Canadian officials an area in the basement which had recently been studied by the National Geographic and was not open to the general public.
+Recent research affirms that this was the place of Jesus’ tomb.
+A YouTube video on this issue may be found <a href=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uuZ-C7nmj4>here</a>.
+This counters research (Talpoit tomb) which concluded that Jesus’ body and family tomb had been found about three miles away from the CHS.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio4.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="CHS-gate.jpg">
+  <figcaption>the gate to the basement of the CHS</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="CHS-george.jpg">
+  <figcaption>George explaining the recent research.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="CHS-research1.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="CHS-research2.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="CHS-dynamics.jpg">
+  <figcaption>George giving details about the dynamics of the various groups occupying the CHS .</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="CHS-ladder.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Note ladder.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>dinner with George</h3>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="dinner-george.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-17><a href=#2019-09-17>2019-09-17 Tuesday</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Nancy’s luggage was finally delivered to the hotel by staff who had to walk to another hotel outside the wall to get it.
+</p>
+
+<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers took a second walk on the wall.
+This time they walked from the Jaffa gate to the Damascus gate.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="from-wall.jpg">
+  <figcaption>View of Jerusalem from the wall.</h3>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Israeli Museum</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers viewed the dead sea scrolls at the Israeli Museum, which is outside the Old City.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="dead-sea-scroll.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at the Armenian Apostolic Church Office</h3>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="george-nancy-book.jpg">
+  <figcaption>George and Nancy look for information about Miriam Jerahian.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at the Gulbenkian Library</h3>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="walk-to-library.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Walking to the Gulbenkian library in the Armenian Quarter.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at Armenian Cemetery</h3>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="cemetery-selfie.jpg">
+  <figcaption>George,Nancy and Jim standing in the cemetery of the Armenian Quarter in front of a memorial to Armenian soldiers who fought post 1918.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>wrapping up with George</h3>
+
+<p>
+The afternoon before the travelers left Israel for Turkey, George shared that they should not take the original paperwork (English and Turkish) about Yesia’s inherited property to Turkey.
+He offered to keep it for them until he could get it to Jim via a trusted person.
+The travelers followed George’s advice and were glad they did.
+Because in Turkey they had three experiences which could have placed them in a position they did not intend to be in while there.
+First, when they met with the Hrant Dink staff in Istanbul, they wanted to know if Yesia had been a Turkish citizen when he left Turkey in 1900 because they had a law suit against Turkey showing that such citizens may have been entitled to property.
+Second, they had an unexpected interaction with a national Turkish politician in Erzindjan and a semi-expected interaction with a local Turkish official in Develi.
+Both wanted to know about possible property implications of their visit.
+For all three instances they were grateful that they did not have these papers with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They had a second dinner with George during which they had candid discussion of politics in Armenia, Israel and Turkey.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>depart</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers met a cab at the Jaffa gate with their luggage and drove to Tel Aviv.
+They drove through sections which showed the barriers between Palestine and Israel with long lines of people waiting to go to work on buses.
+</p>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html
deleted file mode 100644
index ec48244..0000000
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi.html
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,464 +0,0 @@
-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
-<html>
-<head>
-  <meta charset="utf-8">
-  <title>Kayseri & Develi</title>
-  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
-</head>
-<body>
-
-<h1>Kayseri & Develi</h1>
-
-Part of the <a href="../armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-25><a href=#2019-09-25>2019-09-25 Wednesday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Traveling Cappadocia to Kayseri</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers drove from Cappadocia to Kayseri.
-It rained hard, revealing that their rental vehicle had bad wipers.
-There wasn't much traffic, but Google routed them strangely including a trip through Kayseri's industrial district.
-</p>
-
-<h3>first night in Kayseri</h3>
-
-<p>
-In Kayseri the travelers stayed in Setenonu 1892 Hotel, a very fancy hotel in the center of the city.
-They had two rooms, with three beds this time.
-Nancy used the very fancy hotel bathroom for her laundry, a humorous juxtaposition.
-After settling in, the travelers had a quick dinner within walking distance.
-The waiter and restaurant owner spoke no english.
-It continued to rain very hard.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-map.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Map of Kayseri.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/hotel-beds.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-One of the rooms in Setenonu 1892 Hotel.
-[38.716 N, 35.485 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/hotel-laundry.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Nancy does her laundry in the hotel bathroom.
-Note the use of suction cups to attach to the marble walls.
-[38.716 N, 35.485 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-26><a href=#2019-09-26>2019-09-26 Thursday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>traveling Kayseri to Develi</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers enjoyed a wonderful drive over Mt Erciyes from Kayseri to Develi.
-One of the small pieces of information remembered by Nancy is that, although the family lived closer to Kayseri, they would prefer to travel to Istanbul because the way to Kayseri was made so difficult by the mountain.
-Although modern roads make the way easy, it was clear to the travelers why it would be difficult to travel over Mt. Erciyes in those times.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-They met their guide (Selim Akdoğan) at the entrance of town.
-Selim proved to be an amazing local guide.
-His business care gives the following credentials and roles:  B.Sc P.D. MBA CCol ASDC Economist, Scientist, Journalist, Historian, Politician, Senior Executive.
-Selim has a clear love for natural life & enjoys exchanging views with everyone.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/develi-map.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Map of Develi.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>the Torosian family</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers searched Develi for evidence of the Torosian family.
-This photo of Yesia was taken between 1900 when he immigrated to the US and 1908 when he was married.
-As of 1933, Yesia and his wife petitioned Turkish authorities (via the US Department of State) for compensation for the loss of family real estate and properties.
-Yesia claimed that his uncle Sarkis Effendi Yanuk Garabed Torosian, had bequeathed a home and vineyards to him which were described in detail.
-The claim was denied but Jim and Nancy had the documents with the description of the properties.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/Yesia.png">
-  <figcaption>Portrait of Yesia Torosian.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Armenian vineyards</h3>
-
-<p>
-The traveler's ancestors that lived in Develi had the surname Torosian.
-This corresponds to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taurus_Mountains">Toros mountain range</a>, which pass through Develi.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-The Torosians were, in part, vineyard owners.
-There are no longer vineyards in Develi, but the same valley described in Nancy's notes still has visible terracing from those days.
-The entire area was clearly farmed in the past.
-The guide Selim remembered the time when there were vineyards from his own childhood.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/terracing.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Valley in Develi, showing signs of terracing.
-[38.392 N, 35.502 E] <br>
-
-<h3>old fountain</h3>
-
-<p>
-Nancy's notes contained references of a fountain in Fenesse, where spring water would emerge with great force.
-This old fountain has been converted into a swimming pool.
-There are many springs around Develi, which lead to a "ground irrigated" effect and relatively fertile soil.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/pool.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-old fountain, now a swimming pool.
-[38.387 n, 35.501 e] <br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/pool-tile.jpg">
-  <figcaption>detail of swimming pool, showing tilework</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>ruins of St. Trovos</h3>
-
-<p>
-The guide Selim showed the travelers where the ruins of St. Trovos were.
-This was the main Armenian church in Fenesse.
-This is likely where the Torosians would have attended church.
-It has now been made into a childrens playground, with only one wall of the church still standing.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/trovos.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Ruined wall of St. Trovos church.
-Left to right: unknown local man, Selim, Nancy, Jim.
-[38.387 N, 35.496 E] <br>
-
-<h3>municipality office</h3>
-
-<p>
-Selim was kind enough to introduce the travelers to the municipality officials at the head office of Develi.
-These are the locally elected government officials.
-The travelers were introduced to the acting mayor, and the <a href="https://www.develi.bel.tr/birimlerimiz/kultur-ve-sosyal-isler-mudurlugu">acting director of culture and social affairs</a>.
-These officials were very accommodating, seeing that all needs were taken care of.
-They even vacuum packed the goat cheese (Tulum) that the travelers were still carrying from Kemeryaka.
-The culture and social affairs director (Ali Orhan), stayed with the travelers for the remainder of their visit.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-All enjoyed a discussion of Torosian property and Develi history.
-A map showing the various districts of Develi hung on the wall.
-The Torosian family lived in the Fenesse district.
-The Everek district was close by, but separated by Turkish occupied land.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/districts.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Districts of Develi. <br>
-
-<h3>Everek</h3>
-
-<p>
-After meeting the municpality officials, the travlers, guide Selim, and cultural affairs director Ali headed out to take a walking tour of Everek.
-This is the district where the Torosians lived.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/fenesse-sign.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-A sign points the way to Fenesse.
-[38.391 N, 35.492 E] <br>
-
-<p>
-A school near the town center was serving a special "noah soup", celebrating the date when the biblical arc made ground.
-Nancy was of great interest to the local students as a professor from America.
-All gathered around to try out their ability to speak english.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/soup.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Travelers enjoy "noah soup".
-Foreground left to right, acting mayor, local government man, Ali, Selim, Jim.
-Note very large soup bowl on table.
-[38.387 N, 35.492 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/noah-soup.jpg">
-  <figcaption>closeup of noah soup</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/nancy-students.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Students gather around Nancy.
-All are interested to hear and speak English.
-Students asked if Americans learn about Turkey.
-[38.387 N, 35.492 E] <br>
-
-<p>
-Along the walking tour of Fenesse, the travelers meet a local family making grape honey on the street.
-They share their creation, which tasted very sweet with unusual undertones.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/honey1.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<img src="kayseri-develi/honey2.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-<img src="kayseri-develi/honey3.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Locals reduce grapes into a rich honey.
-[38.383 N, 35.491 E] <br>
-
-<p>
-They visited many old buildings.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/fenesse-building.jpg"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Typical old building in Fenesse.
-Many of these buildings were around even when Armenians occupied this area.
-[38.383 N, 35.490 E] <br>
-<br>
-
-<p>
-There were also local people knocking down walnuts from trees.
-The freshly harvested walnuts had a strong flavor.
-</p>
-
-<img src="kayseri-develi/walnuts.gif"
-     alt=""
-     width="100%">
-Locals use a long stick to harvest from a walnut tree. <br>
-
-<p>
-The travelers saw an old Armenian church.
-The building is still standing, but is now being used as a mosque.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/mosque-interior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>lunch</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers were treated to lunch by the standing mayor and cultural official.
-They ate at an outdoor restaurant in the town center, Elbiz restaurant.
-The cuisine was turkish pizza.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/elbiz.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Natural spring in the center of Elbiz park.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>Bedrosian home</h3>
-
-<p>
-After lunch, the travelers visited the home previously owned by the Bedrosian family, the last Armenian family to occupy Develi.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/bedrosian-key.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Key to Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/bedrosian-arch.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Archway in Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/bedrosian-baby.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Baby carriage left in Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>upper Develi</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers visited upper Develi, the old town that looks over the valley where the modern city lies.
-This old town has suffered through a few earthquakes, but original buildings do still stand.
-</p>
-
-<p>
-The travelers saw a very old tomb in the mountains above Develi.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/tomb-exterior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Tomb exterior.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/tomb.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Tomb.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-The travelers visited the second oldest mosque in Develi, located in upper Develi.
-They enjoyed a sweet traditional drink, stored in large stone containers within the mosque.
-This mosque was gifted to the city by a very wealthy woman.
-A stone column in the front of the mosque freely rotates, its joint captured but not pinned by the stone above.
-This is an "earthquake alert system"; any small motion of the stone caused by an earthquake would cause the column to either stop freely rotating or fall out.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/mosque-develi.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/rotating-column.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Freely rotating column.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/women-wall.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Wall where women may watch the prayer.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-The travelers went up to the ridge where several Turkish millitary memorials were erected.
-The overlook provided remarkable views of the mountains and valley.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/nancy-develi.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Nancy poses in front of Develi.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/selfie.JPG">
-  <figcaption>All pose for a selfie with the view in the background.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>back to Kayseri, dinner</h3>
-
-<p>
-After another very busy day, the travelers were happy to return to Kayseri.
-For dinner they tried a restaurant that specializes in manti, a favorite family food.
-Kayseri is said to be the birthplace of mainti, and there are many varieties served there.
-Nancy, Jim, and Blaise were able to each try a different variety of manti for dinner.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/manti1.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Blaise's manti.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/manti2.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Nancy's manti.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/manti3.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Jim's manti.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-27><a href=#2019-09-27>2019-09-27 Friday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>Armenian apostolic church</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers were able to visit a local Armenian apostolic church.
-This may be the only Armenian church in the wider area of Kayseri / Develi.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-church-exterior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Exterior of Armenian Apostolic Church.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-church-interior.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Interior of Armenian Apostolic Church.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-church-dome.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Interior of Armenian Apostolic Church, dome detail.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<h3>casual day</h3>
-
-<p>
-The travelers split up and enjoyed a casual day of rest in Kayseri.
-Nancy and Blaise went to work at on organizing notes at a local Starbucks.
-Jim had fun exploring the city and enjoying amenities at a fancy hotel nearby.
-The travelers enjoyed the "sights and sounds" of everyday life in Kayseri.
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/public-transportation.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Kayseri public transportation was modern and efficient.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-mall.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Very fancy local mall.
-  Note security guard; security was clearly a big deal in Kayseri.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-pool.jpg">
-  <figcaption>High-rise indoor pool enjoyed by Jim.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<hr>
-<h2 id=2019-09-28><a href=#2019-09-28>2019-09-28 Saturday</a></h2>
-
-<h3>travel home</h3>
-
-<p>
-All three of the travelers left Kayseri- Nancy and Blaise for the USA and Jim for a little more time in Istanbul.
-After dropping off the rented car, they began the journey in the Kayseri airport
-</p>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/kayseri-airport.jpg">
-  <figcaption>Kayseri airport.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<figure>
-  <img src="kayseri-develi/bosphorus.jpg">
-  <figcaption>View of the bosphorus as Blaise flew into Istanbul.
-  A fitting last look at Turkey.</figcaption>
-</figure>
-
-<p>
-In Istanbul Blaise and Nancy knew that a delay (2 hours) of the flight to Chicago would pose problems in getting to our respective final destinations.
-The Turkish Air folks arranged for Blaise to have a stand by status with an Am Airlines flight but he still needed to check with their office in Chicago.
-Nancy did not have any options since the flight to Cedar Rapids was the last one that night.
-Once Blaise and Nancy parted in Chicago, Nancy did what she could to make my flight to Cedar Rapids.
-Had to go through security and get to the gate.
-Poor signage confused her and she went to the gate terminal (1) rather than the security terminal (2) first.
-While waiting in the security line she met a kind woman who was in the same boat.
-When they both discovered that they could not get to Cedar Rapids that night, she (Jeanette 	Harrington) offered to let Nancy  share her hotel room.
-She did so and Nany was able to shower and have 3 hours of sleep before returning to O’Hare for the final flight home.
-</p>
-
-</body>
-</html>
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+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+  <meta charset="utf-8">
+  <title>Kayseri & Develi</title>
+  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Kayseri & Develi</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-25><a href=#2019-09-25>2019-09-25 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Traveling Cappadocia to Kayseri</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers drove from Cappadocia to Kayseri.
+It rained hard, revealing that their rental vehicle had bad wipers.
+There wasn't much traffic, but Google routed them strangely including a trip through Kayseri's industrial district.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-map.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Map of Kayseri.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>first night in Kayseri</h3>
+
+<p>
+In Kayseri the travelers stayed in Setenonu 1892 Hotel, a very fancy hotel in the center of the city.
+They had two rooms, with three beds this time.
+Nancy used the very fancy hotel bathroom for her laundry, a humorous juxtaposition.
+After settling in, the travelers had a quick dinner within walking distance.
+The waiter and restaurant owner spoke no english.
+It continued to rain very hard.
+</p>
+
+<img src="hotel-beds.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+One of the rooms in Setenonu 1892 Hotel.
+[38.716 N, 35.485 E] <br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="hotel-laundry.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Nancy does her laundry in the hotel bathroom.
+Note the use of suction cups to attach to the marble walls.
+[38.716 N, 35.485 E] <br>
+<br>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-26><a href=#2019-09-26>2019-09-26 Thursday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>traveling Kayseri to Develi</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers enjoyed a wonderful drive over Mt Erciyes from Kayseri to Develi.
+One of the small pieces of information remembered by Nancy is that, although the family lived closer to Kayseri, they would prefer to travel to Istanbul because the way to Kayseri was made so difficult by the mountain.
+Although modern roads make the way easy, it was clear to the travelers why it would be difficult to travel over Mt. Erciyes in those times.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They met their guide (Selim Akdoğan) at the entrance of town.
+Selim proved to be an amazing local guide.
+His business care gives the following credentials and roles:  B.Sc P.D. MBA CCol ASDC Economist, Scientist, Journalist, Historian, Politician, Senior Executive.
+Selim has a clear love for natural life & enjoys exchanging views with everyone.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="develi-map.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Map of Develi.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>the Torosian family</h3>
+
+<p>
+The traveler's ancestors had the surname Torosian.
+This corresponds to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taurus_Mountains">Toros mountain range</a>, which pass through Develi.
+The Torosians lived in an Armenian village called Finesse next to a Turkish village Develi.
+Currently, the village of Finesse is simply a district of Develi, and no Armenians reside in the area.
+The travelers searched modern Develi for evidence of the Torosian family.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This photo of Yesia was taken between 1900 when he immigrated to the US and 1908 when he was married.
+As of 1933, Yesia and his wife petitioned Turkish authorities (via the US Department of State) for compensation for the loss of family real estate and properties.
+Yesia claimed that his uncle, Sarkis Effendi Yanuk Garabed Torosian, had bequeathed a home and vineyards to him which were described in detail.
+The claim was denied but Jim and Nancy had the documents with the description of the properties.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="Yesia.png">
+  <figcaption>Photograph of Yesia Torosian.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Fenesse</h3>
+
+<p>
+The Torosians were, in part, vineyard owners.
+There are no longer vineyards in Develi, but the same valley described in Nancy's notes still has visible terracing from those days.
+The entire area was clearly cultivated in the past.
+The guide Selim remembered the time when there were vineyards from his own childhood.
+</p>
+
+<img src="terracing.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Valley in Develi, showing signs of terracing.
+[38.392 N, 35.502 E] <br>
+
+<p>
+Nancy's notes contained references of a fountain in Fenesse, where spring water would emerge with great force.
+This old fountain has been converted into a swimming pool.
+There are many springs around Develi, which lead to a "ground irrigated" effect and relatively fertile soil.
+</p>
+
+<img src="pool.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+old fountain, now a swimming pool.
+[38.387 n, 35.501 e] <br>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="pool-tile.jpg">
+  <figcaption>detail of swimming pool, showing tilework</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The guide Selim showed the travelers where the ruins of St. Toros were.
+This was the main Armenian church in Fenesse.
+This is likely where the Torosians would have attended church.
+It has now been made into a childrens playground, with only one wall of the church still standing.
+</p>
+
+<img src="trovos.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Ruined wall of St. Toros church.
+Left to right: unknown local man, Selim, Nancy, Jim.
+[38.387 N, 35.496 E] <br>
+
+<h3>municipality office</h3>
+
+<p>
+Selim was kind enough to introduce the travelers to the municipality officials at the head office of Develi.
+These are the locally elected government officials.
+The travelers were introduced to the acting mayor, and the <a href="https://www.develi.bel.tr/birimlerimiz/kultur-ve-sosyal-isler-mudurlugu">acting director of culture and social affairs</a>.
+These officials were very accommodating, seeing that all needs were taken care of.
+They even vacuum packed the goat cheese (Tulum) that the travelers were still carrying from Kemeryaka.
+The culture and social affairs director (Ali Orhan), stayed with the travelers for the remainder of their visit.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All enjoyed a discussion of Torosian property and Develi history.
+A map showing the various districts of Develi hung on the wall.
+The Torosian family lived in the Fenesse district.
+The Everek district was close by, but separated by Turkish occupied land.
+</p>
+
+<img src="districts.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Districts of Develi. <br>
+
+<h3>old Develi</h3>
+
+<p>
+After meeting the municpality officials, the travlers, guide Selim, and cultural affairs director Ali headed out to take a walking tour of Develi.
+</p>
+
+<img src="fenesse-sign.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+A sign points the way to Fenesse.
+[38.391 N, 35.492 E] <br>
+
+<p>
+A school near the town center was serving a special "Noah soup", celebrating the date when the Biblical ark made ground.
+Nancy was of great interest to the local students as a professor from America.
+All gathered around to try out their ability to speak english.
+</p>
+
+<img src="soup.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Travelers enjoy "Noah soup".
+Foreground left to right, acting mayor, local government man, Ali, Selim, Jim.
+Note very large soup bowl on table.
+[38.387 N, 35.492 E] <br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="noah-soup.jpg">
+  <figcaption>closeup of noah soup</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="nancy-students.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Students gather around Nancy.
+All are interested to hear and speak English.
+Students asked if Americans learn about Turkey.
+[38.387 N, 35.492 E] <br>
+
+<p>
+Along the walking tour of Fenesse, the travelers meet a local family making grape honey on the street.
+They share their creation, which tasted very sweet with unusual undertones.
+</p>
+
+<img src="honey1.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+<img src="honey2.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+<img src="honey3.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Locals reduce grapes into a rich honey.
+[38.383 N, 35.491 E] <br>
+
+<p>
+They visited many old buildings.
+</p>
+
+<img src="fenesse-building.jpg"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Typical old building in old Develi.
+Many of these buildings were around even when Armenians occupied this area.
+[38.383 N, 35.490 E] <br>
+<br>
+
+<p>
+There were also local people knocking down walnuts from trees.
+The freshly harvested walnuts had a strong flavor.
+</p>
+
+<img src="walnuts.gif"
+     alt=""
+     width="100%">
+Locals use a long stick to harvest from a walnut tree. <br>
+
+</h3>Everek Church<h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers saw an old Armenian church in Everek district.
+The building is still standing, but is now being used as a mosque.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="mosque-interior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>lunch</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers were treated to lunch by the standing mayor and cultural official.
+They ate at an outdoor restaurant in the town center, Elbiz restaurant.
+The cuisine was Turkish pizza.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="elbiz.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Natural spring in the center of Elbiz park.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Bedrosian home</h3>
+
+<p>
+After lunch, the travelers visited the home previously owned by the Bedrosian family, the last Armenian family to occupy Develi.
+This home was in the Everek district.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="bedrosian-key.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Key to Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="bedrosian-arch.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Archway in Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="bedrosian-baby.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Baby carriage left in Bedrosian home.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>upper Develi</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited upper Develi, the old town that looks over the valley where the modern city lies.
+This old town has suffered through a few earthquakes, but original buildings do still stand.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The travelers saw a very old mosque in the mountains above Develi.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="tomb-exterior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Mosque exterior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="tomb.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Next, the travelers visited the second oldest mosque in Develi, located in upper Develi.
+They enjoyed a sweet traditional drink, stored in large stone containers within the mosque.
+This mosque was gifted to the city by a very wealthy woman.
+A stone column in the front of the mosque freely rotates, its joint captured but not pinned by the stone above.
+This is an "earthquake alert system"; any small motion of the stone caused by an earthquake would cause the column to either stop freely rotating or fall out.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="mosque-develi.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Mosque interior.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="rotating-column.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Freely rotating column.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="women-wall.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Wall where women may watch the prayer.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers went up to the ridge where several Turkish millitary memorials were erected.
+The overlook provided remarkable views of the mountains and valley.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="nancy-develi.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Nancy poses in front of Develi.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="selfie.JPG">
+  <figcaption>All pose for a selfie with the view in the background.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>back to Kayseri, dinner</h3>
+
+<p>
+After another very busy day, the travelers were happy to return to Kayseri.
+For dinner they tried a restaurant that specializes in manti, a favorite family food.
+Kayseri is said to be the birthplace of mainti, and there are many varieties served there.
+Nancy, Jim, and Blaise were able to each try a different variety of manti for dinner.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="manti1.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Blaise's manti.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="manti2.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Nancy's manti.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="manti3.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Jim's manti.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-27><a href=#2019-09-27>2019-09-27 Friday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>Armenian Apostolic Church</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers were able to visit a local Armenian Apostolic Church.
+This may be the only Armenian church in the wider area of Kayseri / Develi.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-church-exterior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Exterior of Armenian Apostolic Church.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-church-interior.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Interior of Armenian Apostolic Church.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-church-dome.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Interior of Armenian Apostolic Church, dome detail.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>casual day</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers split up and enjoyed a casual day of rest in Kayseri.
+Nancy and Blaise went to work at on organizing notes at a local Starbucks.
+Jim had fun exploring the city and enjoying amenities at a fancy hotel nearby.
+The travelers enjoyed the "sights and sounds" of everyday life in Kayseri.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="public-transportation.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Kayseri public transportation was modern and efficient.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-mall.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Very fancy local mall.
+  Note security guard; security was clearly a big deal in Kayseri.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-pool.jpg">
+  <figcaption>High-rise indoor pool enjoyed by Jim.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="highrise.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Kayseri glitzy highrise. Lighting cycled through several animations.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-28><a href=#2019-09-28>2019-09-28 Saturday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>travel home</h3>
+
+<p>
+All three of the travelers left Kayseri- Nancy and Blaise for the USA and Jim for a little more time in Istanbul.
+After dropping off the rented car, they began the journey in the Kayseri airport
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="kayseri-airport.jpg">
+  <figcaption>Kayseri airport.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="bosphorus.jpg">
+  <figcaption>View of the Bosphorus as Blaise flew into Istanbul.
+  A fitting last look at Turkey.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+In Istanbul Blaise and Nancy knew that a delay (2 hours) of the flight to Chicago would pose problems in getting to our respective final destinations.
+The Turkish Air folks arranged for Blaise to have a stand by status with an Am Airlines flight but he still needed to check with their office in Chicago.
+Nancy did not have any options since the flight to Cedar Rapids was the last one that night.
+Once Blaise and Nancy parted in Chicago, Nancy did what she could to make my flight to Cedar Rapids.
+Had to go through security and get to the gate.
+Poor signage confused her and she went to the gate terminal (1) rather than the security terminal (2) first.
+While waiting in the security line she met a kind woman who was in the same boat.
+When they both discovered that they could not get to Cedar Rapids that night, she (Jeanette Harrington) offered to let Nancy  share her hotel room.
+She did so and Nancy was able to shower and have 3 hours of sleep before returning to O’Hare for the final flight home.
+</p>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/manti2.jpg b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/manti2.jpg
index 3974a26..15b8973 100644
Binary files a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/manti2.jpg and b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/manti2.jpg differ
diff --git a/public/index.html b/public/index.html
index 915ed0e..750c895 100644
--- a/public/index.html
+++ b/public/index.html
@@ -21,7 +21,7 @@
     <tr>
       <td>2019-09-13</td>
       <td>2019-09-28</td>
-      <td><a href="armenian-heritage-trip.html">Armenian heritage trip</a></td>
+      <td><a href="/armenian-heritage-trip/">Armenian heritage trip</a></td>
     </tr>
     <tr>
       <td>1999-06-13</td>
diff --git a/public/style.css b/public/style.css
index ae5deb1..ee7dcb1 100644
--- a/public/style.css
+++ b/public/style.css
@@ -47,6 +47,10 @@ figure {
   margin-bottom: 1em;
 }
 
+audio {
+  width: 100%;
+}
+
 img {
   width: 100%;
 }
-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From 595449d8faf333d97eb14256386ebc5b32ec93b4 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 15:44:10 -0600
Subject: small develi fixes

---
 public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/index.html | 6 +++---
 1 file changed, 3 insertions(+), 3 deletions(-)

diff --git a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/index.html b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/index.html
index 5a002be..7e9984e 100644
--- a/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/index.html
+++ b/public/armenian-heritage-trip/kayseri-develi/index.html
@@ -81,9 +81,9 @@ Selim has a clear love for natural life & enjoys exchanging views with everyone.
 
 <p>
 The traveler's ancestors had the surname Torosian.
-This corresponds to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taurus_Mountains">Toros mountain range</a>, which pass through Develi.
-The Torosians lived in an Armenian village called Finesse next to a Turkish village Develi.
-Currently, the village of Finesse is simply a district of Develi, and no Armenians reside in the area.
+This corresponds to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taurus_Mountains">Toros Mountain Range</a>, which passes through Develi.
+The Torosians lived in an Armenian village called Fenesse next to a Turkish village Develi.
+Currently, the village of Fenesse is simply a district of Develi, and no Armenians reside in the area.
 The travelers searched modern Develi for evidence of the Torosian family.
 </p>
 
-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From 3327cdc1398ccbf4963e5d7fef25ff6efcecdf3a Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2020 15:35:06 -0800
Subject: solstice letters

---
 public/2014-solstice-letter/index.html             | 122 +++++++++++++++++++++
 public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.pdf             | Bin 0 -> 3170324 bytes
 public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.tex             |  55 ++++++++++
 public/2014-solstice-letter/me.JPG                 | Bin 0 -> 3126762 bytes
 public/2015-solstice-letter/index.html             |  92 ++++++++++++++++
 public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.pdf             | Bin 0 -> 4358554 bytes
 public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.tex             |  66 +++++++++++
 public/2015-solstice-letter/loon_cropped.jpg       | Bin 0 -> 77625 bytes
 public/2015-solstice-letter/me.JPG                 | Bin 0 -> 4222959 bytes
 .../IMG_20160517_101306032_HDR.jpg                 | Bin 0 -> 298232 bytes
 .../2016-solstice-letter/IMG_20160703_185954.jpg   | Bin 0 -> 1045725 bytes
 public/2016-solstice-letter/index.html             |  97 ++++++++++++++++
 public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.pdf             | Bin 0 -> 1384491 bytes
 public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.tex             |  69 ++++++++++++
 public/index.html                                  |  15 +++
 15 files changed, 516 insertions(+)
 create mode 100644 public/2014-solstice-letter/index.html
 create mode 100644 public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
 create mode 100644 public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.tex
 create mode 100644 public/2014-solstice-letter/me.JPG
 create mode 100644 public/2015-solstice-letter/index.html
 create mode 100644 public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
 create mode 100644 public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.tex
 create mode 100644 public/2015-solstice-letter/loon_cropped.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/2015-solstice-letter/me.JPG
 create mode 100644 public/2016-solstice-letter/IMG_20160517_101306032_HDR.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/2016-solstice-letter/IMG_20160703_185954.jpg
 create mode 100644 public/2016-solstice-letter/index.html
 create mode 100644 public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
 create mode 100644 public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.tex

diff --git a/public/2014-solstice-letter/index.html b/public/2014-solstice-letter/index.html
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..739e263
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2014-solstice-letter/index.html
@@ -0,0 +1,122 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+  <meta charset="utf-8">
+  <title>2014 winter solstice letter</title>
+  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>2014 winter solstice letter</h1>
+
+<p>
+<a href="..">← back to memories list</a>
+<p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>
+Blaise sent this letter to friends and family to celebrate the winter holiday season, 2014.
+In addition to this html version, you can also download the letter as sent: <a href="./letter.pdf">PDF</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Winter Solstice Greetings - 2014</h2>
+
+<p>
+Hello to all my friends and family.
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For a long time I've wanted to start a tradition of sending out yearly letters.
+In this, the 25th year of my life, I've finally gotten around to doing it.
+I'm inspired by my mother, who has been sending out letters since the 80s.
+It's a wonderful way to keep in contact, and it serves as a great personal record.
+It may seem anachronistic now that we have email and social media, but keeping it a physical letter just feels good.
+Please let me know if your address changes (email is probably best) so I can send you letters in future years.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I'm now a fourth year Analytical Chemistry graduate student at the University of Wisconsin in Madison.
+I do research in the lab of John Wright.
+We do ultrafast, multidimensional spectroscopy of solar materials.
+I'm involved in many projects, but mainly I'm working on BiVO4 and PbSe quantum dots.
+I'll continue this research for another one to two years.
+After that? I'm not too sure yet.
+Grad school has been very fun for me, I really enjoy working in this field and the people that I interact with are all fantastic.
+John in particular is a great mentor personally and scientifically.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As a vacation this year mom and I went out to California by car, primarily to visit bay area relatives.
+It was an all-around stellar experience.
+Driving from Wisconsin to California takes a long time, but the geography is stunningly beautiful.
+Highlights included clouds in Nebraska, Big Trees, Yosemite, and the Bonneville salt flats.
+The bay area itself was also beautiful, of course.
+It's crazy to realize that I haven't  been out to see that side of the family since Grandma Betty's funeral in 2005.
+Will have to make a concerted effort to go out west more often.
+Perhaps I'll have to swallow my pride and get on a plane.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="./me.JPG">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Our family cat, Untzag, died unexpectedly in October of this year.
+She was run over by a car.
+Vehrzheen, the family dog, is geriatric and probably not long for this world.
+2015 will probably be the first year in my life without a family dog or cat.
+Ridgeback, my turtle, is still going strong.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Madison continues to be a great city for me.
+I take advantage of it less then I should.
+I'm going out to eat and grab drinks more in recent months.
+The folk community here is very active, and I was able to dance weekly for most of the year.
+I've been taking a break from contradance over the last several months, but plan to dance again come January.
+I was able to see Yelle and Of Montreal in the same month this fall.
+Both were absolutely fantastic live.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Have a great new year.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Blaise J Thompson <br>
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 <br>
+Madison Wisconsin 53703<br>
+<br>
+blaise@untzag.com
+</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.pdf b/public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0d41854
Binary files /dev/null and b/public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.pdf differ
diff --git a/public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.tex b/public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.tex
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7088482
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2014-solstice-letter/letter.tex
@@ -0,0 +1,55 @@
+\documentclass{letter}
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{wrapfig}
+
+\newenvironment{sig}[1]%
+ {\begin{list}{}%
+         {\setlength{\leftmargin}{300pt}}%
+         \item[]%
+ }
+ {\end{list}}
+
+\usepackage[margin=0.75in]{geometry}
+
+\begin{document}
+
+\pagenumbering{gobble}
+
+\large{\textbf{Winter Solstice Greetings - 2014}}
+
+
+Hello to all my friends and family. I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months. 
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.5\textwidth}
+  \begin{center}
+    \includegraphics[width=0.48\textwidth]{me}
+  \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+For a long time I've wanted to start a tradition of sending out yearly letters. In this, the 25th year of my life, I've finally gotten around to doing it. I'm inspired by my mother, who has been sending out letters since the 80s. It's a wonderful way to keep in contact, and it serves as a great personal record. It may seem anachronistic now that we have email and social media, but keeping it a physical letter just feels good. Please let me know if your address changes (email is probably best) so I can send you letters in future years.
+
+I'm now a fourth year Analytical Chemistry graduate student at the University of Wisconsin in Madison. I do research in the lab of John Wright. We do ultrafast, multidimensional spectroscopy of solar materials. I'm involved in many projects, but mainly I'm working on BiVO$_4$ and PbSe quantum dots. I'll continue this research for another one to two years. After that? I'm not too sure yet. Grad school has been very fun for me, I really enjoy working in this field and the people that I interact with are all fantastic. John in particular is a great mentor personally and scientifically. 
+
+As a vacation this year mom and I went out to California by car, primarily to visit bay area relatives. It was an all-around stellar experience. Driving from Wisconsin to California takes a long time, but the geography is stunningly beautiful. Highlights included clouds in Nebraska, Big Trees, Yosemite, and the Bonneville salt flats. The bay area itself was also beautiful, of course. It's crazy to realize that I haven't  been out to see that side of the family since Grandma Betty's funeral in 2005. Will have to make a concerted effort to go out west more often. Perhaps I'll have to swallow my pride and get on a plane.
+
+Our family cat, Untzag, died unexpectedly in October of this year. She was run over by a car. Vehrzheen, the family dog, is geriatric and probably not long for this world. 2015 will probably be the first year in my life without a family dog or cat. Ridgeback, my turtule, is still going strong.
+
+Madison continues to be a great city for me. I take advantage of it less then I should. I'm going out to eat and grab drinks more in recent months. The folk community here is very active, and I was able to dance weekly for most of the year. I've been taking a break from contradance over the last several months, but plan to dance again come January. I was able to see Yelle and Of Montreal in the same month this fall. Both were absolutely fantastic live.
+
+Have a great new year.
+
+\vspace{10 pt}
+
+\begin{sig}{3cm}
+
+Blaise J Thompson \\*
+
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 \\*
+Madison Wisconsin 53703 \\*
+
+blaise@untzag.com
+
+\end{sig}
+
+
+\end{document}
diff --git a/public/2014-solstice-letter/me.JPG b/public/2014-solstice-letter/me.JPG
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b33b38f
Binary files /dev/null and b/public/2014-solstice-letter/me.JPG differ
diff --git a/public/2015-solstice-letter/index.html b/public/2015-solstice-letter/index.html
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3471ad9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2015-solstice-letter/index.html
@@ -0,0 +1,92 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+  <meta charset="utf-8">
+  <title>2015 winter solstice letter</title>
+  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>2015 winter solstice letter</h1>
+
+<p>
+<a href="..">← back to memories list</a>
+<p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>
+Blaise sent this letter to friends and family to celebrate the winter holiday season, 2015.
+In addition to this html version, you can also download the letter as sent: <a href="./letter.pdf">PDF</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Winter Solstice Greetings - 2015</h2>
+
+<p>
+Hello to all my friends and family.
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these unusually warm winter months.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Following time honored Thompson tradition I'm already slipping behind in my holiday greeting card schedule.
+I'm writing this the day \textit{after} winter solstice.
+Madison is unusually warm for the time of year.
+Outside it is very foggy and a large amount of rain is expected later.
+Previous snowfall has long since melted.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I'm now well into my 5th year of graduate school.
+As of early December I've become the senior experimentalist on the femtosecond materials project.
+Older graduate students in the group are still around but are focusing exclusively on finishing their dissertations.
+Projects that I have been working on are finally being published.
+Writing papers is frustrating but enjoyable once done.
+Currently we are caught up to data collected 1.5 years ago, so there is much to do.
+I'm hopeful that 2016 can be a breakout year where we really can use these tools we've created to say something useful about solar materials.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="./me.JPG">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The picture above is me tubing on a Wright Group boating trip on lake Mendota.
+I was able to hold on for quite some time but did end up being thrown trying to do some tricks.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I didn't take any large vacations this year.
+The family did spend some time at Towanda lake in northern Wisconsin.
+It was fun to return to a common childhood vacation location.
+While there we spread the ashes of Vehrzheen
+. It was a fitting goodbye - I'll never forget how much fun Vehrzheen and I had on that lake when we were young.
+The picture below was taken by me on the day we scattered her ashes.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="./loon_cropped.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+I'm continuing to enjoy Madison.
+I have started contradancing again.
+I have gotten more serious about weight lifting and fitness as a hobby and have really enjoyed the facilities provided by the University.
+I continue to enjoy living downtown in the hustle and bustle of city life but I may be outgrowing my apartment with stuff.
+May move this fall if I can find a nice place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Have a fantastic 2016.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Blaise J Thompson <br>
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 <br>
+Madison Wisconsin 53703 <br>
+<br>
+blaise@untzag.com
+</p>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.pdf b/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0ddc4ce
Binary files /dev/null and b/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.pdf differ
diff --git a/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.tex b/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.tex
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bf7ad6c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2015-solstice-letter/letter.tex
@@ -0,0 +1,66 @@
+\documentclass{letter}
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{wrapfig}
+
+\newenvironment{sig}[1]%
+ {\begin{list}{}%
+         {\setlength{\leftmargin}{300pt}}%
+         \item[]%
+ }
+ {\end{list}}
+
+\usepackage[margin=0.75in]{geometry}
+
+\begin{document}
+
+\pagenumbering{gobble}
+
+\large{\textbf{Winter Solstice Greetings - 2015}}
+
+\begingroup
+\setlength{\intextsep}{0pt}%
+\setlength{\columnsep}{0pt}%
+
+Hello to all my friends and family. I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these unusually warm winter months.
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.5\textwidth}
+  \begin{center}
+    \includegraphics[width=0.48\textwidth]{me}
+  \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+Following time honored Thompson tradition I'm already slipping behind in my holiday greeting card schedule. I'm writing this the day \textit{after} winter solstice. Madison is unusually warm for the time of year. Outside it is very foggy and a large amount of rain is expected later. Previous snowfall has long since melted.
+
+I'm now well into my 5th year of graduate school. As of early December I've become the senior experimentalist on the femtosecond materials project. Older graduate students in the group are still around but are focusing exclusively on finishing their dissertations. Projects that I have been working on are finally being published. Writing papers is frustrating but enjoyable once done. Currently we are caught up to data collected $\sim 1.5$ years ago, so there is much to do. I'm hopeful that 2016 can be a breakout year where we really can use these tools we've created to say something useful about solar materials.
+
+The picture above is me tubing on a Wright Group boating trip on lake Mendota. I was able to hold on for quite some time but did end up being thrown trying to do some tricks.
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{l}{0.5\textwidth}
+	\begin{center}
+		\includegraphics[width=0.48\textwidth]{loon_cropped}
+	\end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+I didn't take any large vacations this year. The family did spend some time at Towanda lake in northern Wisconsin. It was fun to return to a common childhood vacation location. While there we spread the ashes of Vehrzheen. It was a fitting goodbye - I'll never forget how much fun Vehrzheen and I had on that lake when we were young. The picture on the left was taken by me on the day we scattered her ashes.
+
+I'm continuing to enjoy Madison. I have started contradancing again. I have gotten more serious about weight lifting and fitness as a hobby and have really enjoyed the facilities provided by the University. I continue to enjoy living downtown in the hustle and bustle of city life but I may be outgrowing my apartment with stuff. May move this fall if I can find a nice place.
+
+Have a fantastic 2016.
+
+\endgroup
+
+\vspace{10 pt}
+
+\begin{sig}{3cm}
+
+Blaise J Thompson \\*
+
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 \\*
+Madison Wisconsin 53703 \\*
+
+blaise@untzag.com
+
+\end{sig}
+
+
+\end{document}
diff --git a/public/2015-solstice-letter/loon_cropped.jpg b/public/2015-solstice-letter/loon_cropped.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c37a782
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new file mode 100644
index 0000000..15ddd75
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diff --git a/public/2016-solstice-letter/IMG_20160517_101306032_HDR.jpg b/public/2016-solstice-letter/IMG_20160517_101306032_HDR.jpg
new file mode 100644
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new file mode 100644
index 0000000..39661d5
Binary files /dev/null and b/public/2016-solstice-letter/IMG_20160703_185954.jpg differ
diff --git a/public/2016-solstice-letter/index.html b/public/2016-solstice-letter/index.html
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ce279d1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2016-solstice-letter/index.html
@@ -0,0 +1,97 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+  <meta charset="utf-8">
+  <title>2016 winter solstice letter</title>
+  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>2016 winter solstice letter</h1>
+
+<p>
+<a href="..">← back to memories list</a>
+<p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>
+Blaise sent this letter to friends and family to celebrate the winter holiday season, 2016.
+In addition to this html version, you can also download the letter as sent: <a href="./letter.pdf">PDF</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Winter Solstice Greetings - 2016</h2>
+
+<p>
+Hello to all my friends and family.
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months.
+It's snowing hard outside as I write this letter to you.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I'm now in the middle of my 6th year of graduate school.
+I'm still enjoying my time in the Wright group---I hope to be here for a while yet.
+The past year of graduate school has been frustrating in some ways.
+Lots of progress has been made, but I haven't reached the key checkpoints that I hoped to reach.
+I'm looking forward to being a teaching assistant for a graduate-level electronics and instrumentation course next semester.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This summer was busy for me.
+In mid May three college friends (Kate, Nina, and Claire) joined me here in the Midwest.
+We spent a few days exploring Chicago---river tour, museums, food, even a local contradance.
+Pictured below is us outside of Shedd Aquarium.
+We then drove to Madison and spent a few days in Wisconsin.
+Exploring the House on the Rock with Benji was a highlight of the trip for me.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="./IMG_20160517_101306032_HDR.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+I was honored to stand as a member of Claire's wedding party on June 24th.
+The wedding took place near Claire's parents in beautiful Napa Valley, California.
+It was a great wedding and I really enjoyed catching up with the Parker, Eckert and Till families.
+It was also great to briefly see the Nielsens---Jim and Tracey were kind enough to loan me a car during my time in California.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After returning home from California I had just 24 hours before flying to Amsterdam for an academic conference.
+Coherent Multidimensional Spectroscopy (CMDS) is a small biennial conference in my narrow subfield.
+My advisor---John C. Wright---was a founding member of the conference and still sits as chair of the organizing committee.
+This year the conference was held in beautiful historic Groningen, the Netherlands.
+The first molecular photon echo was resolved in Groningen (DOI: <a href="https://doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevLett.74.674">10.1103/PhysRevLett.74.674</a>).
+At the conference I presented a poster on my work to make CMDS instrumentation more reproducible and robust.
+Afterwards I spent five days exploring Europe, traveling to Brussels and Amsterdam.
+Pictured below is me in the famous Grote Markt.
+I didn't really plan anything about my trip, just stepped out of the hotel and started walking.
+Everywhere I went was filled with great food, people, and artwork. Very enjoyable---but I was ready to return to Wisconsin after five days.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="./IMG_20160703_185954.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+This year I've enjoyed learning more about philosophy, rationality, and psychology.
+Daniel Kahneman's book <it>Thinking, Fast and Slow</it> has changed the way I think about human cognition.
+I'm trying to incorporate these ideas more into my personal behavior.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Have a fantastic 2017. Stay in touch.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Blaise Jonathan Thompson <br>
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 <br>
+Madison, Wisconsin 53703 <br>
+<br>
+1-424-225-2493 <br>
+blaise@untzag.com
+</p>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.pdf b/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2e740f4
Binary files /dev/null and b/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.pdf differ
diff --git a/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.tex b/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.tex
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6d2986b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2016-solstice-letter/letter.tex
@@ -0,0 +1,69 @@
+% document
+\documentclass{letter}
+\usepackage[margin=0.5in]{geometry}
+\usepackage{multicol}
+
+% text
+\usepackage[utf8]{inputenc}
+\renewcommand{\familydefault}{\sfdefault}
+
+% graphics
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{wrapfig}
+
+% signature environment
+\newenvironment{sig}[1]%
+ {\begin{list}{}%
+         {\setlength{\leftmargin}{300pt}}%
+         \item[]%
+ }
+ {\end{list}}
+
+\begin{document}
+
+\pagenumbering{gobble}
+
+\large{\textbf{Winter Solstice Greetings \hfill 2016}}
+
+\begingroup
+\setlength{\intextsep}{0pt}%
+\setlength{\columnsep}{10pt}%
+
+Hello to all my friends and family. I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months. It's snowing hard outside as I write this letter to you.
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.45\textwidth}
+  \begin{center}
+    \includegraphics[width=0.4\textwidth]{"IMG_20160517_101306032_HDR"}
+  \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+I'm now in the middle of my 6th year of graduate school. I'm still enjoying my time in the Wright group---I hope to be here for a while yet. The past year of graduate school has been frustrating in some ways. Lots of progress has been made, but I haven't reached the key checkpoints that I hoped to reach. I'm looking forward to being a teaching assistant for a graduate-level electronics and instrumentation course next semester.
+
+This summer was busy for me. In mid May three college friends (Kate, Nina, and Claire) joined me here in the Midwest. We spent a few days exploring Chicago---river tour, museums, food, even a local contradance. Pictured above is us outside of Shedd Aquarium. We then drove to Madison and spent a few days in Wisconsin. Exploring the House on the Rock with Benji was a highlight of the trip for me.
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{l}{0.45\textwidth}
+  \begin{center}
+    \includegraphics[width=0.4\textwidth]{"IMG_20160703_185954"}
+  \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+I was honored to stand as a member of Claire's wedding party on June 24th. The wedding took place near Claire's parents in beautiful Napa Valley, California. It was a great wedding and I really enjoyed catching up with the Parker, Eckert and Till families. It was also great to briefly see the Nielsens---Jim and Tracey were kind enough to loan me a car during my time in California.
+
+After returning home from California I had just 24 hours before flying to Amsterdam for an academic conference. Coherent Multidimensional Spectroscopy (CMDS) is a small biennial conference in my narrow subfield. My advisor---John C. Wright---was a founding member of the conference and still sits as chair of the organizing committee. This year the conference was held in beautiful historic Groningen, the Netherlands. The first molecular photon echo was resolved in Groningen (DOI: 10.1103/PhysRevLett.74.674). At the conference I presented a poster on my work to make CMDS instrumentation more reproducible and robust. Afterwards I spent five days exploring Europe, traveling to Brussels and Amsterdam. Pictured above and left is me in the famous Grote Markt. I didn't really plan anything about my trip, just stepped out of the hotel and started walking. Everywhere I went was filled with great food, people, and artwork. Very enjoyable---but I was ready to return to Wisconsin after five days.
+
+This year I've enjoyed learning more about philosophy, rationality, and psychology. Daniel Kahneman's book \textit{Thinking, Fast and Slow} has changed the way I think about human cognition. I'm trying to incorporate these ideas more into my personal behavior.
+
+Have a fantastic 2017. Stay in touch.
+
+\vfill
+\raggedleft
+
+Blaise Jonathan Thompson \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+509 N Lake St. Apt 408 \\*
+Madison, Wisconsin 53703 \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+1-424-225-2493 \\*
+blaise@untzag.com
+
+\end{document}
diff --git a/public/index.html b/public/index.html
index 750c895..f40227a 100644
--- a/public/index.html
+++ b/public/index.html
@@ -23,11 +23,26 @@
       <td>2019-09-28</td>
       <td><a href="/armenian-heritage-trip/">Armenian heritage trip</a></td>
     </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td>2016-12-21</td>
+      <td>2016-12-21</td>
+      <td><a href="./2016-solstice-letter/">2016 winter solstice letter</a></td>
+    </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td>2015-12-21</td>
+      <td>2015-12-21</td>
+      <td><a href="./2015-solstice-letter/">2015 winter solstice letter</a></td>
+    </tr>
     <tr>
       <td>1999-06-13</td>
       <td>2015-06-27</td>
       <td><a href="vehrzheen.html">Vehrzheen</a></td>
     </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td>2014-12-21</td>
+      <td>2014-12-21</td>
+      <td><a href="./2014-solstice-letter/">2014 winter solstice letter</a></td>
+    </tr>
     <tr>
       <td>2010</td>
       <td>2010</td>
-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From e27de48b365f1568f5a96aafe710bfbe4dd0f644 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 12:06:41 -0800
Subject: 2017 solstice letter

---
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 public/index.html                                  |   5 ++
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 create mode 100644 public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
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diff --git a/public/2017-solstice-letter/DSC_0043.JPG b/public/2017-solstice-letter/DSC_0043.JPG
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new file mode 100644
index 0000000..06a8b09
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2017-solstice-letter/index.html
@@ -0,0 +1,92 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+  <meta charset="utf-8">
+  <title>2017 winter solstice letter</title>
+  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>2017 winter solstice letter</h1>
+
+<p>
+<a href="..">← back to memories list</a>
+<p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>
+Blaise sent this letter to friends and family to celebrate the winter holiday season, 2017.
+In addition to this html version, you can also download the letter as sent: <a href="./letter.pdf">PDF</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Winter Solstice Greetings - 2017</h2>
+
+<p>
+Hello to all my friends and family.
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months.
+As I write this letter, the ice fishing season has begun in Madison.
+Brave individuals have taken to the lake near my apartment to test their luck.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I'm now in the middle of my 7th year of graduate school.
+Time flies, and I'm begrudgingly trying to wrap up this phase of my life.
+Not sure what comes  next.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My good friend Tyler graduated this spring.
+I am happy to see him move on to better things, but sad that we are no longer living in the same place.
+Perhaps life will bring us together again at a later date.
+In celebration, Tyler and I took a short vacation together.
+We camped at beautiful Wyalusing State Park---Tyler's first camping experience!
+The midwestern summer rains caught us, but we had fun despite the weather.
+We also visited House on the Rock and New Glarus Brewery.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On August 21st of this year a total solar eclipse crossed much of the Continental US.
+My parents and I took this as an opportunity for family vacation.
+We visited the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area, at the intersection of Kentucky and Tennessee.
+After a bit of stress, we ended up finding a nice waterside campsite (below).
+The very large lakes were too large for our small Alumacraft, so we did not get much fishing done.
+I did get lots of reading done, and the time spent away was nice.
+The eclipse itself was pretty magical.
+The family (including Karaby) put on our swimsuits and waded into the lake to watch.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="./IMG_20170820_120702.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+In early October I traveled to beautiful Arcata to visit my good friend Claire and her husband, Ralph.
+Claire and Ralph have a wonderful home on a gravel road nestled among impossibly tall redwood trees.
+I enjoyed exploring Arcata and the nearby town of Eureka.
+Humboldt State, where Claire works, has interesting California architecture---one of Claire's colleagues has an office with only outdoor entrance!
+The local Ma-Le'l dunes (below) were interesting---very windy with alien landscape and flora.
+Making pasties and horchata, and enjoying Claire's famous pie, were the highlights of the trip for me.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="./DSC_0043.JPG">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Stay in touch---note new address.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Blaise Jonathan Thompson <br>
+725 W Washington Ave. Apt 306 <br>
+Madison, Wisconsin 53715 <br>
+<br>
+1-424-225-2493 <br>
+blaise@untzag.com <br>
+http://blaise.social
+</p>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.pdf b/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e0c63a8
Binary files /dev/null and b/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.pdf differ
diff --git a/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.tex b/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.tex
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e33c17e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2017-solstice-letter/letter.tex
@@ -0,0 +1,96 @@
+% document
+\documentclass{letter}
+\usepackage[margin=0.5in]{geometry}
+\usepackage{multicol}
+
+% text
+\usepackage[utf8]{inputenc}
+\renewcommand{\familydefault}{\sfdefault}
+
+% graphics
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{wrapfig}
+
+% signature environment
+\newenvironment{sig}[1]%
+ {\begin{list}{}%
+         {\setlength{\leftmargin}{300pt}}%
+         \item[]%
+ }
+ {\end{list}}
+
+\begin{document}
+
+\pagenumbering{gobble}
+
+\large{\textbf{Winter Solstice Greetings \hfill 2017}}
+
+\begingroup
+\setlength{\intextsep}{0pt}%
+\setlength{\columnsep}{10pt}%
+
+Hello to all my friends and family.  %
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months.  %
+As I write this letter, the ice fishing season has begun in Madison.  %
+Brave individuals have taken to the lake near my apartment to test their luck.  %
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.45\textwidth}
+  \begin{center}
+    \includegraphics[width=0.4\textwidth]{"IMG_20170820_120702"}
+  \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+I'm now in the middle of my 7th year of graduate school.  %
+Time flies, and I'm begrudgingly trying to wrap up this phase of my life.  %
+Not sure what comes  next.
+
+My good friend Tyler graduated this spring.  %
+I am happy to see him move on to better things, but sad that we are no longer living in the same
+place.  %
+Perhaps life will bring us together again at a later date.  %
+In celebration, Tyler and I took a short vacation together.  %
+We camped at beautiful Wyalusing State Park---Tyler's first camping experience!  %
+The midwestern summer rains caught us, but we had fun despite the weather.  %
+We also visited House on the Rock and New Glarus Brewery.  %
+
+On August 21st of this year a total solar eclipse crossed much of the Continental US.  %
+My parents and I took this as an opportunity for family vacation.  %
+We visited the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area, at the intersection of Kentucky and
+Tennessee.  %
+After a bit of stress, we ended up finding a nice waterside campsite (right).  %
+The very large lakes were too large for our small Alumacraft, so we did not get much fishing
+done.  %
+I did get lots of reading done, and the time spent away was nice.  %
+The eclipse itself was pretty magical.  %
+The family (including Karaby) put on our swimsuits and waded into the lake to watch.  %
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{l}{0.45\textwidth}
+  \begin{center}
+    \includegraphics[width=0.4\textwidth]{"DSC_0043"}
+  \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+In early October I traveled to beautiful Arcata to visit my good friend Claire
+and her husband, Ralph.  %
+Claire and Ralph have a wonderful home on a gravel road nestled among impossibly tall redwood
+trees.  %
+I enjoyed exploring Arcata and the nearby town of Eureka.  %
+Humboldt State, where Claire works, has interesting California architecture---one of Claire's
+colleagues has an office with only outdoor entrance!  %
+The local Ma-Le'l dunes (left) were interesting---very windy with alien landscape and flora.  %
+Making pasties and horchata, and enjoying Claire's famous pie, were the highlights of the trip for
+me.  %
+
+\vfill
+\raggedleft
+
+Stay in touch---note new address. \hfill Blaise Jonathan Thompson \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+725 W Washington Ave. Apt 306 \\*
+Madison, Wisconsin 53715 \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+1-424-225-2493 \\*
+blaise@untzag.com \\*
+http://blaise.social
+
+\end{document}
diff --git a/public/index.html b/public/index.html
index f40227a..956cd80 100644
--- a/public/index.html
+++ b/public/index.html
@@ -23,6 +23,11 @@
       <td>2019-09-28</td>
       <td><a href="/armenian-heritage-trip/">Armenian heritage trip</a></td>
     </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td>2017-12-21</td>
+      <td>2017-12-21</td>
+      <td><a href="./2017-solstice-letter/">2017 winter solstice letter</a></td>
+    </tr>
     <tr>
       <td>2016-12-21</td>
       <td>2016-12-21</td>
-- 
cgit v1.2.3


From ddc040ac8e2c08da9d5c8a3a7366626bb62d095f Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Blaise Thompson <blaise@untzag.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 12:27:08 -0800
Subject: 2018 solstice letter

---
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 public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.tex             | 100 ++++++++++++++++++++
 public/2019-solstice-letter/recipients.org         |  28 ++++++
 public/index.html                                  |   5 +
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 create mode 100644 public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
 create mode 100644 public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.tex
 create mode 100644 public/2019-solstice-letter/recipients.org

diff --git a/public/2018-solstice-letter/DSC_0131.JPG b/public/2018-solstice-letter/DSC_0131.JPG
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new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e24855c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2018-solstice-letter/index.html
@@ -0,0 +1,105 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+  <meta charset="utf-8">
+  <title>2018 winter solstice letter</title>
+  <link rel="stylesheet" href="../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>2018 winter solstice letter</h1>
+
+<p>
+<a href="..">← back to memories list</a>
+<p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>
+Blaise sent this letter to friends and family to celebrate the winter holiday season, 2018.
+In addition to this html version, you can also download the letter as sent: <a href="./letter.pdf">PDF</a>.
+</p>
+
+<h2>Winter Solstice Greetings - 2018</h2>
+
+<p>
+Hello to all my friends and family.
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months.
+It's fairly warm here in Madison, but the bay near my apartment has already frozen over.
+The last two weekends have been popular with ice fishers and skaters.
+As finals week progresses the town slowly empties.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This has been an important year for me professionally.
+On April 23rd I successfully defended my dissertation, earning my doctorate in analytical chemistry.
+See below a picture of me and my PhD adviser John Wright.
+I am very lucky to have worked under John for seven short years.
+John taught me a lot about being an independent thinker and communicator.
+I was blessed to have my parents and good friend Tyler attend my graduation.
+I "walked" with two other Wright Group friends---Kyle Czech and Jonathan Handali.
+The ceremony that I attended (just for masters and doctorates) was huge---I'm still amazed at UW-Madison's size.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="./IMG_20180511_193937.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Of course, the high of graduation is typically followed by the panic of trying to find a job.
+On July 23rd I began working as an instrumentation technologist for the chemistry department.
+This is a research support role where I work on solving technical challenges facing researchers throughout the department.
+I am the supervisor of a "makerspace" where students and researchers can come work on instrument construction and repair.
+We have specialized equipment and a large inventory of parts for purchase.
+I take on a large variety of different jobs---everything from fixing humble hotplates and glassware drying ovens to designing custom oscillators for mass spectrometry.
+The people that I work with on a daily basis are driven and kind---they have done a lot to help me overcome my lack of formal training in electrical engineering.
+For me right now, this is a dream job.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I've had several opportunities to travel this year.
+A few weeks after graduation my friend Tyler was gracious enough to invite me to his home in New York for a 1.5 week vacation.
+Highlights included eating at Di Fara Pizza, exploring Coney Island, and seeing The SpongeBob Musical on Broadway.
+It was so fun to visit Tyler and see how far he has come since his own graduation.
+I was also glad to visit my friend Felix at Yale during the same trip.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In July I spent nine days in Iowa City with my parents.
+After so long, I enjoyed spending such a long time at "home".
+The barn construction project is going along beautifully, and I was able to help with some humble drywall work.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Over the thanksgiving break I traveled to the west coast.
+I flew into Las Vegas, where my parents picked me up for a quick 24-hour Death Valley experience.
+We woke up early to watch the sunrise from Dante's View.
+I hope to return to Death Valley for a longer trip some day.
+Here I am standing on the floor of Badwater Basin---282 feet below sea level.
+After leaving, we picked up Karaby and drove straight to Roseville, where we had thanksgiving dinner with the Trumbly & Decker Family.
+It's so nice to connect with extended family after many years.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+  <img src="./DSC_0131.JPG">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Wishing you and yours a happy new year. Stay in touch!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Blaise Jonathan Thompson <br>
+725 W Washington Ave. Apt 306 <br>
+Madison, Wisconsin 53715 <br>
+<br>
+1-424-225-2493 <br>
+blaise@untzag.com <br>
+http://blaise.zone
+</p>
+
+
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.pdf b/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.pdf
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6ba3c9e
Binary files /dev/null and b/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.pdf differ
diff --git a/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.tex b/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.tex
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6a71ad8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2018-solstice-letter/letter.tex
@@ -0,0 +1,100 @@
+% document
+\documentclass{letter}
+\usepackage[margin=0.5in]{geometry}
+\usepackage{multicol}
+
+% text
+\usepackage[utf8]{inputenc}
+\renewcommand{\familydefault}{\sfdefault}
+
+% graphics
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{wrapfig}
+
+% signature environment
+\newenvironment{sig}[1]%
+ {\begin{list}{}%
+         {\setlength{\leftmargin}{300pt}}%
+         \item[]%
+ }
+ {\end{list}}
+
+\begin{document}
+
+\pagenumbering{gobble}
+
+\large{\textbf{Winter Solstice Greetings \hfill 2018}}
+
+\begingroup
+\setlength{\intextsep}{0pt}%
+\setlength{\columnsep}{10pt}%
+
+Hello to all my friends and family.  %
+I hope that you are feeling peaceful, cozy, and happy in these winter months.  %
+It's fairly warm here in Madison, but the bay near my apartment has already frozen over.  %
+The last two weekends have been popular with ice fishers and skaters.  %
+As finals week progresses the town slowly empties.  %
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{l}{0.4\textwidth}
+  \begin{center}
+    \includegraphics[width=0.4\textwidth]{"IMG_20180511_193937"}
+  \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+This has been an important year for me professionally.  %
+On April 23rd I successfully defended my dissertation, earning my doctorate in analytical chemistry.  %
+See left a picture of me and my PhD adviser John Wright.  %
+I am very lucky to have worked under John for seven short years.  %
+John taught me a lot about being an independent thinker and communicator.
+I was blessed to have my parents and good friend Tyler attend my graduation.
+I ``walked'' with two other Wright Group friends---Kyle Czech and Jonathan Handali.  %
+The ceremony that I attended (just for masters and doctorates) was huge---I'm still amazed at UW-Madison's size.
+
+Of course, the high of graduation is typically followed by the panic of trying to find a job.
+On July 23rd I began working as an instrumentation technologist for the chemistry department.
+This is a research support role where I work on solving technical challenges facing researchers throughout the department.
+I am the supervisor of a ``makerspace'' where students and researchers can come work on instrument construction and repair.
+We have specialized equipment and a large inventory of parts for purchase.
+I take on a large variety of different jobs---everything from fixing humble hotplates and glassware drying ovens to designing custom oscillators for mass spectrometry.
+The people that I work with on a daily basis are driven and kind---they have done a lot to help me overcome my lack of formal training in electrical engineering.
+For me right now, this is a dream job.
+
+I've had several opportunities to travel this year.
+A few weeks after graduation my friend Tyler was gracious enough to invite me to his home in New York for a 1.5 week vacation.
+Highlights included eating at Di Fara Pizza, exploring Coney Island, and seeing The SpongeBob Musical on Broadway.
+It was so fun to visit Tyler and see how far he has come since his own graduation.
+I was also glad to visit my friend Felix at Yale during the same trip.
+
+In July I spent nine days in Iowa City with my parents.
+After so long, I enjoyed spending such a long time at ``home''.
+The barn construction project is going along beautifully, and I was able to help with some humble drywall work.
+
+\begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.3\textwidth}
+  \begin{center}
+    \includegraphics[width=0.3\textwidth]{"DSC_0131"}
+  \end{center}
+\end{wrapfigure}
+
+Over the thanksgiving break I traveled to the west coast.
+I flew into Las Vegas, where my parents picked me up for a quick 24-hour Death Valley experience.
+We woke up early to watch the sunrise from Dante's View.
+I hope to return to Death Valley for a longer trip some day.
+Here I am standing on the floor of Badwater Basin---282 feet below sea level.
+After leaving, we picked up Karaby and drove straight to Roseville, where we had thanksgiving dinner with the Trumbly \& Decker Family.
+It's so nice to connect with extended family after many years.
+
+Wishing you and yours a happy new year. Stay in touch!
+
+\vfill
+\raggedleft
+
+Blaise Jonathan Thompson \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+725 W Washington Ave. Apt 306 \\*
+Madison, Wisconsin 53715 \\*
+\hspace{0pt} \\
+1-424-225-2493 \\*
+blaise@untzag.com \\*
+http://blaise.zone
+
+\end{document}
diff --git a/public/2019-solstice-letter/recipients.org b/public/2019-solstice-letter/recipients.org
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..78382df
--- /dev/null
+++ b/public/2019-solstice-letter/recipients.org
@@ -0,0 +1,28 @@
+#+TITLE: winter solstice letter recipients
+
+* DONE Alisha Nielsen
+* DONE Carol & John Wright
+* DONE Claire & Ralph Till
+* DONE Darien Morrow and Katelyn Fisher (spelling?)
+* DONE Elizabeth Breuer
+* DONE Felix Radford
+* DONE Justin Earley
+* DONE Kate Webber
+* DONE Kyle Czech
+* DONE Kyle Sunden
+* DONE Marcia and Dan Boyer
+* DONE Marilyn Roberts
+* DONE Mark and Roger
+* DONE Myrna Casebolt
+* DONE Nancy & David Thompson
+* DONE Nathaniel Nielsen
+* DONE Nina Halperin
+* DONE Parker/Eckert Family
+* DONE Sam Price
+* DONE Sarah Charley
+* DONE Susie & Mike Truninger
+* DONE The Kohler Family
+* DONE The Manly Family
+* DONE Tracey and James Nielsen
+* DONE Tyler Roberts
+* DONE Zach Ott
diff --git a/public/index.html b/public/index.html
index 956cd80..23a4d06 100644
--- a/public/index.html
+++ b/public/index.html
@@ -23,6 +23,11 @@
       <td>2019-09-28</td>
       <td><a href="/armenian-heritage-trip/">Armenian heritage trip</a></td>
     </tr>
+    <tr>
+      <td>2018-12-21</td>
+      <td>2018-12-21</td>
+      <td><a href="./2018-solstice-letter/">2018 winter solstice letter</a></td>
+    </tr>
     <tr>
       <td>2017-12-21</td>
       <td>2017-12-21</td>
-- 
cgit v1.2.3