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+<!DOCTYPE html>
+<meta name="viewport" content="width=80ch, initial-scale=1.0, user-scalable=no">
+<html>
+<head>
+ <meta charset="utf-8">
+ <title>Jerusalem</title>
+ <link rel="stylesheet" href="../../style.css">
+</head>
+<body>
+
+<h1>Jerusalem</h1>
+
+Part of the <a href="../">Armenian heritage trip memory.</a>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-13><a href=#2019-09-13>2019-09-13 Friday</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Nancy and Jim travel to Tel Aviv.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="airplane.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Jim's plane in SanFrancisco.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="staff.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Turkish Airlines staff in San Francisco.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+Assistance of United staff helped Nancy find how to get to Terminal 5 at O’Hare and reach the plane going to Istanbul.
+On the plane, she had the assistance of a Bosnian couple in knowing how to work the various technology at her seat.
+Had wanted to watch the movie “The Guernsey Literary…” and it was available for free on this flight.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-14><a href=#2019-09-14>2019-09-14 Saturday</a></h2>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="istanbul-airport.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Terminal in Istanbul.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+In the Istanbul airport, Nancy had the assistance of a couple from Pakistan living in Indiana in knowing how to read the departure board and establish phone and wifi connection in the airport so she could rendezvous with Jim.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="airplane-selfie.jpg">
+ <figcaption>The travelers take a selfie on the airplane from Istanbul to TelAviv.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="istanbul-night.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Istanbul at night, from the airplane.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<p>
+As the travelers were entering Jerusalem, they were almost in an accident when the shuttle bus was squeezed between a bus and a bluff.
+The shuttle bus dropped the travelers off in Jerusalem at midnight- Damascus gate- about 10 minutes away from the hotel.
+The streets were dark and empty.
+Use of global app and phone flashlight enabled them to walk to the hotel in the Old City in the dark with their luggage.
+Nancy’s main suitcase was still to come.
+</p>
+
+<img src="damascus-gate.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Damascus gate.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="hotel-doors.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Hotel doors.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="hotel-interior.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Hotel interior.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="jerusalem-map.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+A map of Jerusalem's old city.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-15><a href=#2019-09-15>2019-09-15 Sunday</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Not having connected with the contact person, George Hintlian, the travelers explored the Old City on their own.
+Many of the things they saw were seen again in more detail on Monday and Tuesday with George.
+</p>
+
+<img src="shops.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Shop along the alleyways in Old City Jerusalem.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
+
+<p>
+Church of the Holy Sepulchre - believed to be the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and resurrection.
+Currently occupied by several christian groups: Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic, and to a lesser degree the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/de/Plan_of_the_Church_of_the_Holy_Sepulchre_and_adjacent_structures_in_Jerusalem_-_Chrysanthus_of_Bursa_-_1807.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Footprint. Chrysanthus of Bursa [Public domain]</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="sepulchre-exterior.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Holy Sepulchre exterior.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="sepulchre-interior.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Holy Sepulchre interior.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="sepulchre-dome.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Holy Sepulchre dome.
+<br>
+
+<h3>lunch</h3>
+
+<img src="sunday-lunch.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy and Jim enjoyed lunch, but they realized that they were gouged badly when the bill came.
+They learned to look at a menu with prices before ordering.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Wailing Wall</h3>
+
+<img src="wailing-stands.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Stands to hold prayer material.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="wailing-men.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Wailing Wall men's side.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="wailing-special.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Special area which is covered (men's side).
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="wailing-washing.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Handwashing area for use before approaching the wall.</figcaption>
+<figure>
+
+<img src="wailing-women.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Wailing Wall women's side.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="tamia-prayer.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Nancy delivered a prayer from Tamia and left it in the wailing wall.
+<br>
+
+<p>
+After viewing the Wailing Wall, the travelers walked back to the hotel to take a nap.
+Needed to recover after long trip from USA to Israel.
+</p>
+
+<h3>Armenian Quarter & St. James' Cathedral</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-statuary.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Statuary in the courtyard of St. James' Cathedral.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="armenian-seminary.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Monastery/seminary in the Armenian Quarter
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="genocide-poster.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Reminder of the genocide.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-patriarchate.jpg">
+ <figccaption>Street sign indicates that the Patriarchate of the Armenian Orthodox Church resides in this Quarter.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>dinner, end of day</h3>
+
+<p>
+The Travelers ate dinner at Bulghourji Restaurant which served Armenian food.
+</p>
+
+<img src="sunday-dinner.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Dinner.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="shops-closed.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Shops closed at the end of the day.
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="hotel-roof-night.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Night view from hotel rooftop.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-16><a href=#2019-09-16>2019-09-16 Monday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>morning</h3>
+
+<p>
+Monday morning, with help of hotel staff, Nancy's luggage was found.
+The day included times when the travelers were with George and times when they were on their own.
+</p>
+
+<img src="hotel-roof-sunrise.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+Sunrise from hotel rooftop.
+<br>
+
+<h3>Dome of the Rock</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited the Dome of the Rock.
+Nancy had previously visited in 1969 (50 years prior).
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dome-1.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dome-2.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dome-3.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Santa Anna Church</h3>
+
+<p>
+Next to Bethesda ruins.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="santa-anna.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Bethesda pool</h3>
+
+<img src="bethesda-1.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers walked the rampart wall from Jaffa gate to Zion gate.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="armenian-cemetery.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Armenian cemetery.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<img src="rampart-1.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<img src="rampart-2.jpg"
+ alt=""
+ width="100%">
+<br>
+
+<h3>David's Tower</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers visited this museum, which describes the 21 layers of history in Jerusalem.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="21-layers.jpg">
+ <figcaption>21 layers of history at david's tower.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>meet with George at Christ's church café</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers met with <a href=https://openjlem.hypotheses.org/1192>George Hintlian</a>.
+Following are two audio recordings from that meeting.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio1.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio2.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<p>
+The travelers looked more carefully with George for information about Miriam Torosian (n.e.e. Jerahian).
+They wanted to see if there are records that she was born or married in Jerusalem.
+They found no records.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="miriam.png">
+ <figcaption>Torosian family photo.
+ Left to right, Miram, John, and John's wife Paroos (n.e.e. Takousian).
+ Picture was probably taken in 1912 when John and Paroos were married.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at St. James'</h3>
+
+<p>
+George showed them St. James' Cathedral.
+Nancy shared the family's Armenian table grace with George, who was touched.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="st-james-1.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at Gulbenkian Library</h3>
+
+<p>
+Besides exploring our data about Miriam Jerahian, George was also interested in their data about Grandpa’s property in Turkey.
+He read the English and Turkish papers
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio3.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="gulbenkian.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers returned to the CHS with George.
+He included them in showing Canadian officials an area in the basement which had recently been studied by the National Geographic and was not open to the general public.
+Recent research affirms that this was the place of Jesus’ tomb.
+A YouTube video on this issue may be found <a href=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uuZ-C7nmj4>here</a>.
+This counters research (Talpoit tomb) which concluded that Jesus’ body and family tomb had been found about three miles away from the CHS.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <audio controls="controls" src="audio4.mp3">
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-gate.jpg">
+ <figcaption>the gate to the basement of the CHS</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-george.jpg">
+ <figcaption>George explaining the recent research.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-research1.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-research2.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Research data.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-dynamics.jpg">
+ <figcaption>George giving details about the dynamics of the various groups occupying the CHS .</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="CHS-ladder.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Note ladder.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>dinner with George</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dinner-george.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-17><a href=#2019-09-17>2019-09-17 Tuesday</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Nancy’s luggage was finally delivered to the hotel by staff who had to walk to another hotel outside the wall to get it.
+</p>
+
+<h3>wall's promenade</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers took a second walk on the wall.
+This time they walked from the Jaffa gate to the Damascus gate.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="from-wall.jpg">
+ <figcaption>View of Jerusalem from the wall.</h3>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>Israeli Museum</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers viewed the dead sea scrolls at the Israeli Museum, which is outside the Old City.
+</p>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="dead-sea-scroll.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at the Armenian Apostolic Church Office</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="george-nancy-book.jpg">
+ <figcaption>George and Nancy look for information about Miriam Jerahian.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at the Gulbenkian Library</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="walk-to-library.jpg">
+ <figcaption>Walking to the Gulbenkian library in the Armenian Quarter.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>time with George at Armenian Cemetery</h3>
+
+<figure>
+ <img src="cemetery-selfie.jpg">
+ <figcaption>George,Nancy and Jim standing in the cemetery of the Armenian Quarter in front of a memorial to Armenian soldiers who fought post 1918.</figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<h3>wrapping up with George</h3>
+
+<p>
+The afternoon before the travelers left Israel for Turkey, George shared that they should not take the original paperwork (English and Turkish) about Yesia’s inherited property to Turkey.
+He offered to keep it for them until he could get it to Jim via a trusted person.
+The travelers followed George’s advice and were glad they did.
+Because in Turkey they had three experiences which could have placed them in a position they did not intend to be in while there.
+First, when they met with the Hrant Dink staff in Istanbul, they wanted to know if Yesia had been a Turkish citizen when he left Turkey in 1900 because they had a law suit against Turkey showing that such citizens may have been entitled to property.
+Second, they had an unexpected interaction with a national Turkish politician in Erzindjan and a semi-expected interaction with a local Turkish official in Develi.
+Both wanted to know about possible property implications of their visit.
+For all three instances they were grateful that they did not have these papers with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They had a second dinner with George during which they had candid discussion of politics in Armenia, Israel and Turkey.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+<h2 id=2019-09-18><a href=#2019-09-18>2019-09-18 Wednesday</a></h2>
+
+<h3>depart</h3>
+
+<p>
+The travelers met a cab at the Jaffa gate with their luggage and drove to Tel Aviv.
+They drove through sections which showed the barriers between Palestine and Israel with long lines of people waiting to go to work on buses.
+</p>
+
+</body>
+</html>